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*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
Ok folks,This thread is for new members/w under 15 posts to post their questions regarding the 3rd Generation Maxima
Before asking questions,please READ the general maintenance sticky---> CLICK HERE Please do not post whore in this thread ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION |
Occasional stalling/hesitation, and weird tranny shifting
I own an '89 Maxima. I had the engine changed with a used one (80k on it), at 400k, and the tranny changed @360k, with a brand new trans in the crate from Japan. the car will, at any time either totally drop the rpm's to 0 (at any speed), or have extreme hesitation/ or rough idle. I changed the fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, IAC assy, distributor assy, vacuum hoses, air filter, plugs, cap/rotor, and wires. I noticed that if i move the wiring harness the rough idle occurs. After moving the harness around a bit to make the rough idle occur, it dissapeared, as it often does, but now the tranny shift late from 1st to 2nd(the rpm's dont drop when it does shift, just goes into second, and rpm's keep climbing), but the 2nd to 3rd shift is a little harder. The shifting problem doesnt happen if the 1st gear rpm's stay under 3k. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone run into bad engine wiring harness's creating these problems? I have 430k on the car now, and wanted to at least hit 500k.
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I love my 3rd Gen Max, but the cost is climbing, and the mechanics here on LI stink. Anyone who can help? Anyone know where to get a new engine wiring harness?
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Originally Posted by LI89Max
(Post 6126492)
I own an '89 Maxima. I had the engine changed with a used one (80k on it), at 400k, and the tranny changed @360k, with a brand new trans in the crate from Japan. the car will, at any time either totally drop the rpm's to 0 (at any speed), or have extreme hesitation/ or rough idle. I changed the fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, IAC assy, distributor assy, vacuum hoses, air filter, plugs, cap/rotor, and wires. I noticed that if i move the wiring harness the rough idle occurs. After moving the harness around a bit to make the rough idle occur, it dissapeared, as it often does, but now the tranny shift late from 1st to 2nd(the rpm's dont drop when it does shift, just goes into second, and rpm's keep climbing), but the 2nd to 3rd shift is a little harder. The shifting problem doesnt happen if the 1st gear rpm's stay under 3k. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone run into bad engine wiring harness's creating these problems? I have 430k on the car now, and wanted to at least hit 500k.
Have you unwrapped the engine harness to see if any wires are melted or stripped? Do you notice if it behaves worse on wet or high humidity days? |
Originally Posted by LI89Max
(Post 6126511)
I love my 3rd Gen Max, but the cost is climbing, and the mechanics here on LI stink. Anyone who can help? Anyone know where to get a new engine wiring harness?
find a copy of the FSM (google it, and you can put it on your computer) and/or chiltons/haynes/both and do the work yourself. we can guide you through here, offer suggestions. however, we aren't mechanics working on your car. I also suggest donating to the org to get the search feature. you don't have to work as hard finding threads having to do with your problem(s). 20 bucks well spent, IMO. |
I own an '89 Maxima. I was having problems with a very erratic idle. When I moved the engine wiring harness under the hood it "seemed to dissapear. It comes and goes( I changed the fuel pump today, we'll see about the idle)., but now the transmission shifts erratic. Sluggish to go into 2nd, but it does. However the RPM's dont drop when it shifts. Seems to have a weird shift down from OD at any speed now. Was good before I moved the wiring harness. I checked all the connectors, and they look ok. Anyone have any ideas?? Tranny has about 65k on it. Was replaced at 365k miles, and worked great until the moving of the wires.
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Tail light, dash light problem fixed!!
Looks like the thread I originally posted to is gone. Anyway, I'd like to thank the person who suggested checking my tail lights for a corroded bulb and or socket.
My problem was that I lost my tail lights and dash board lights, applying the brakes caused the dash board lights to illuminate and I'll assume the tail lights as well. (I late confirmed this in regard to the tail lights.) An electrical automotive wiz I know said, he knew of a problem with the multi purpose stalk switch for the lighting controls. Well, I purchased one from an Ebay auction and replaced mine, it did not solve the problem. I tried another stalk switch and still the problem persisted. I turned to the web for answers and found this forum. After carefully re-reading the T.O.S. posts, I have learned about the 15 post rule. (Sorry, to the mod's for emailing my question(s) about not being able to post a question.) Unable to search and with no suggestions using google, I posted to a what I thought was a similar thread and posed my question. I was surprised when I was answered back with "check your tail lights..". Today, I checked my tail lights, first unplugging the terminal from the right circuit board, I replaced the blow fuse and the problem went away. Upon further inspection of the circuit board; I found the socket for the upper most bulb corroded with the solder from the bottom of the bulb. I have since cleaned this socket and replaced the bulb with a brand new one, coated the contacts in both the socket and on the bottom of the bulb with di-electric grease, reassembled everything and the problem has gone away. (I greased all the tail light assembly bulbs in both units, in hopes of preventing further problems.) Little would I have ever imagined that such a small problem could cause such a failure of my tail and dash light. Live and learn. Again thank you to all who responded positively to my post. |
Originally Posted by SparrowHawk
(Post 6128887)
Looks like the thread I originally posted to is gone. Anyway, I'd like to thank the person who suggested checking my tail lights for a corroded bulb and or socket.
My problem was that I lost my tail lights and dash board lights, applying the brakes caused the dash board lights to illuminate and I'll assume the tail lights as well. (I late confirmed this in regard to the tail lights.) An electrical automotive wiz I know said, he knew of a problem with the multi purpose stalk switch for the lighting controls. Well, I purchased one from an Ebay auction and replaced mine, it did not solve the problem. I tried another stalk switch and still the problem persisted. I turned to the web for answers and found this forum. After carefully re-reading the T.O.S. posts, I have learned about the 15 post rule. (Sorry, to the mod's for emailing my question(s) about not being able to post a question.) Unable to search and with no suggestions using google, I posted to a what I thought was a similar thread and posed my question. I was surprised when I was answered back with "check your tail lights..". Today, I check my tail lights, first unplugging the terminal from the right circuit board, I replaced the blow fuse and the problem went away. Upon further inspection of the circuit board; I found the socket for the upper most bulb corroded with the solder from the bottom of the bulb. I have since cleaned this socket and replaced the bulb with a brand new one, coated the contacts in both the socket and on the bottom of the bulb with di-electric grease, reassembled everything and the problem has gone away. (I greased all the tail light assembly bulbs in both units, in hopes of preventing further problems.) Little would I have ever imagined that such a small problem could cause such a failure of my tail and dash light. Live and learn. Again thank you to all who responded positively to my post. stick around, and learn some stuff. you best bet is to learn as much as you can, since its your car. donating to the org will help in your learning, and so you can search and don't have to ask already answered questions. |
Originally Posted by SparrowHawk
(Post 6128887)
Looks like the thread I originally posted to is gone. Anyway, I'd like to thank the person who suggested checking my tail lights for a corroded bulb and or socket.
My problem was that I lost my tail lights and dash board lights, applying the brakes caused the dash board lights to illuminate and I'll assume the tail lights as well. (I late confirmed this in regard to the tail lights.) An electrical automotive wiz I know said, he knew of a problem with the multi purpose stalk switch for the lighting controls. Well, I purchased one from an Ebay auction and replaced mine, it did not solve the problem. I tried another stalk switch and still the problem persisted. I turned to the web for answers and found this forum. After carefully re-reading the T.O.S. posts, I have learned about the 15 post rule. (Sorry, to the mod's for emailing my question(s) about not being able to post a question.) Unable to search and with no suggestions using google, I posted to a what I thought was a similar thread and posed my question. I was surprised when I was answered back with "check your tail lights..". Today, I check my tail lights, first unplugging the terminal from the right circuit board, I replaced the blow fuse and the problem went away. Upon further inspection of the circuit board; I found the socket for the upper most bulb corroded with the solder from the bottom of the bulb. I have since cleaned this socket and replaced the bulb with a brand new one, coated the contacts in both the socket and on the bottom of the bulb with di-electric grease, reassembled everything and the problem has gone away. (I greased all the tail light assembly bulbs in both units, in hopes of preventing further problems.) Little would I have ever imagined that such a small problem could cause such a failure of my tail and dash light. Live and learn. Again thank you to all who responded positively to my post. |
Originally Posted by internetautomar
(Post 6128933)
you are welcome
Again thank you for the advice you provided myself and others! |
the good thing about looking somewhere and NOT actually finding the problem....is that you learn a lot about other things in the process. congrats....and keep yourself aroudn the .org, it's a great place.
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No reverse in a VLSD 5spd
I recently had the crankshaft to break on my '90VG. I was fortunate enough to find a donor car. It is a '92SE 5spd with only 134K. It looks like poo, so just driving it is not a desirable option.
Which brings me to my problem. When shifting the gears, the tranny shifts through all the forward gears smoothly. No extra play in the shifter and nothing notchy when shifting between gears. But when you try to shift it into reverse, you can not force it into reverse. It is like it is locked out of reverse. It will pull back into 4th gear instead of reverse, but you can feel the shifter making the move toward the 4th gear gate. I had someone move the shifter between gears while I watched under the hood and I could not see any slack or anything binding there, so I am afraid it may be inside the transaxle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone ran across this before? I have looked at everything I can find about this, but I am having no luck and hope you guys can help. If you have a link, that would be wonderful! The Google search does not bring anything closely related to my problem. Thanks in advance!!!! Mike90SE |
Originally Posted by Mike90SE
(Post 6129918)
I recently had the crankshaft to break on my '90VG. I was fortunate enough to find a donor car. It is a '92SE 5spd with only 134K. It looks like poo, so just driving it is not a desirable option.
Which brings me to my problem. When shifting the gears, the tranny shifts through all the forward gears smoothly. No extra play in the shifter and nothing notchy when shifting between gears. But when you try to shift it into reverse, you can not force it into reverse. It is like it is locked out of reverse. It will pull back into 4th gear instead of reverse, but you can feel the shifter making the move toward the 4th gear gate. I had someone move the shifter between gears while I watched under the hood and I could not see any slack or anything binding there, so I am afraid it may be inside the transaxle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone ran across this before? I have looked at everything I can find about this, but I am having no luck and hope you guys can help. If you have a link, that would be wonderful! The Google search does not bring anything closely related to my problem. Thanks in advance!!!! Mike90SE |
Originally Posted by Mike90SE
(Post 6129918)
I recently had the crankshaft to break on my '90VG. I was fortunate enough to find a donor car. It is a '92SE 5spd with only 134K. It looks like poo, so just driving it is not a desirable option.
Which brings me to my problem. When shifting the gears, the tranny shifts through all the forward gears smoothly. No extra play in the shifter and nothing notchy when shifting between gears. But when you try to shift it into reverse, you can not force it into reverse. It is like it is locked out of reverse. It will pull back into 4th gear instead of reverse, but you can feel the shifter making the move toward the 4th gear gate. I had someone move the shifter between gears while I watched under the hood and I could not see any slack or anything binding there, so I am afraid it may be inside the transaxle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone ran across this before? I have looked at everything I can find about this, but I am having no luck and hope you guys can help. If you have a link, that would be wonderful! The Google search does not bring anything closely related to my problem. Thanks in advance!!!! Mike90SE |
So did anyone have any ideas about what could be causing the problem I mentioned before? I have no problem donating to the cause, but need to find someone who can help. Ive been an Electronic/Mechanical Tech for 23 yrs now, and do most of the work on my car. I changed the fuel pump today, and still get the intermitten dropping RPM(even at idle), and the weird shifting Tranny. I did open the wiring harness, looking for breaks in the wires. Looked good, even where I soldered and shrunkwrapped the new injector connector wires. Also couldnt get the problem to occur.
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Heres more... When the idle is rough, if I tap on the intake, or any part of the engine the idle evens. Still will have the weird tranny shift. Also the problem seems to happen more on dry days. I also pulled the #1 plug and it has a reddish color(lean condition?). Could the Knopck Sensor be causing all these problems? Maybe a revolution sensor? Someone has to have had this??
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Originally Posted by Hectic
(Post 6129970)
There's only one way to find out, tear down the tranny. It's either debris blocking you out, or a problem with the reverse mechanism in there.
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Originally Posted by LI89Max
(Post 6130012)
Heres more... When the idle is rough, if I tap on the intake, or any part of the engine the idle evens. Still will have the weird tranny shift. Also the problem seems to happen more on dry days. I also pulled the #1 plug and it has a reddish color(lean condition?). Could the Knopck Sensor be causing all these problems? Maybe a revolution sensor? Someone has to have had this??
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I checked all the ground points. They look good. Car stll intermittenly varies on the idle, almost to the point of a stall. I noticed that revving the engine causes a "pop" from the air cleaner box. I know o-ring problems on the injectors can cause this symptom, but I cant tap on ind. injectors, and get the problem to occur. All the while I have the weird shifting tranny. I tried to do the trans. self diagnostic, using the method, but cant get it to go into that mode. My relationship with my Max is turning into a hate/hate situation, which sucks cause ive spent ~ 8k replacing the tranny, engine, and a bunch of mods. Now im embarassed to drive this S*#T-box.
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do you have a timing light?
check to make sure the timing isn't jumping. |
Originally Posted by LI89Max
(Post 6130493)
I checked all the ground points. They look good. Car stll intermittenly varies on the idle, almost to the point of a stall. I noticed that revving the engine causes a "pop" from the air cleaner box. I know o-ring problems on the injectors can cause this symptom, but I cant tap on ind. injectors, and get the problem to occur. All the while I have the weird shifting tranny. I tried to do the trans. self diagnostic, using the method, but cant get it to go into that mode. My relationship with my Max is turning into a hate/hate situation, which sucks cause ive spent ~ 8k replacing the tranny, engine, and a bunch of mods. Now im embarassed to drive this S*#T-box.
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Dead speedo.
I have a '92 5-speed SE. My (analog) speedo stopped working last week. It stays stuck at 30 when the ignition is off and jumps to 40 when the key is on. Other than that, it's dead. Has anyone seen this prob before? If so what's up?
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Originally Posted by corndog
(Post 6130760)
I have a '92 5-speed SE. My (analog) speedo stopped working last week. It stays stuck at 30 when the ignition is off and jumps to 40 when the key is on. Other than that, it's dead. Has anyone seen this prob before? If so what's up?
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I replaced the MAF sensor, along with...fuel pump, filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, whole distributor assy, IAC assy, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I'm thinking the knock sensor, cause I know it can retard the timing, possibly causing my weird tranny shifting.
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I just bought a 94 Maxima GXE with the Clarion sound system and a tape deck (Havent seen one of those in a while, lol). The rear speakers arent working. There is a factory amp (Cute little thing). Can I bypass that amp with my new headunit without running new wires from the dash to the rear deck? If I can, which wires do I use, or is there a wiring schematic online somewhere that I can access to find out.
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Originally Posted by jspeter51
(Post 6131682)
I just bought a 94 Maxima GXE with the Clarion sound system and a tape deck (Havent seen one of those in a while, lol). The rear speakers arent working. There is a factory amp (Cute little thing). Can I bypass that amp with my new headunit without running new wires from the dash to the rear deck? If I can, which wires do I use, or is there a wiring schematic online somewhere that I can access to find out.
You should be able to get a manual for the clarion at their site. |
Originally Posted by LI89Max
(Post 6131666)
I replaced the MAF sensor, along with...fuel pump, filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, whole distributor assy, IAC assy, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I'm thinking the knock sensor, cause I know it can retard the timing, possibly causing my weird tranny shifting.
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Originally Posted by LI89Max
(Post 6131666)
I replaced the MAF sensor, along with...fuel pump, filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, whole distributor assy, IAC assy, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I'm thinking the knock sensor, cause I know it can retard the timing, possibly causing my weird tranny shifting.
stop throwing money at the dam car and DIAGNOSE it. a few simple hours spent checking it could have saved you hundreds of dollars. hell I'd rather give a mechanic $65 to diagnose the thing before throwing all those parts at it. |
Hello all!
I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida. In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor. Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it. :( |
Originally Posted by Dalez0r
(Post 6132146)
Hello all!
I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida. In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor. Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it. :( You could probably try to dissolve that stuff little by little, as long as it is actually dissolved and doesnt come off in chunks. I used to use some stuff, cant remember what its called... but you pour it into an engine before the oil change and let it idle for 5 mins, then drain it all. It was supposed to eat away at deposits like that. You're lucky that you have a VG with this issue though, a VE with poor oil flow would be long gone by now. |
Yeah, the variable cam timing would be making that nice tick I read about wouldn't it? :)
No photos unfortunately, I'll see about trying to get some, but it's dark by the time I get off work, and the car is well away from a good light source. Flashlights suck for taking photos. :( Well, I thought about the dissolving it thing as well. Question is, how much damage would you think is done to the engine? Is the engine WORTH keeping, or is it surely going to die in a year or two as a result of it's previous abuse? It pulls strong, but if the bearings were starved of oil... Any experience with VG30E's that were treated this poorly? |
I would get rid of the motor, it was obviously neglected which doesn't bode well for future problems.
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Originally Posted by Dalez0r
(Post 6132182)
Yeah, the variable cam timing would be making that nice tick I read about wouldn't it? :)
No photos unfortunately, I'll see about trying to get some, but it's dark by the time I get off work, and the car is well away from a good light source. Flashlights suck for taking photos. :( Well, I thought about the dissolving it thing as well. Question is, how much damage would you think is done to the engine? Is the engine WORTH keeping, or is it surely going to die in a year or two as a result of it's previous abuse? It pulls strong, but if the bearings were starved of oil... Any experience with VG30E's that were treated this poorly? It seems that it cant really get any worse, so your options are (a) leave as is and drive until it dies, (b) try to remidy the issue and hope for the best, (c) engine swap or (d) sell it. |
Originally Posted by mikekantor
(Post 6132212)
The stuff I used is only in the engine briefly, under low RPMs, and once its done you drain the oil, so its not there long enough really damage anything.
It seems that it cant really get any worse, so your options are (a) leave as is and drive until it dies, (b) try to remidy the issue and hope for the best, (c) engine swap or (d) sell it. I guess it comes down to if I *think* the engine will at least last as long as the transmission, then it may be worth keeping and just swapping in a rebuilt engine later. If the current engine will last 2, maybe 3 years, I'll feel like I got my money's worth out of it and the car.... I bought a 'spare' VG30E from a older maxima I intend on rebuilding (and turboing) for my 300zx, maybe I should rebuild my 300zx engine after that swap and stick it in the Maxima. :D |
^^^^it all really comes down to whether or not the sludge had affected major engine components, or has it blocked certain oil passage ways vital to the engine. If you're lucky, you might get away with only cleaning the engine out, if not, well, the thing might die on you. From what you described, I think you are proficient enough to tell engine condition from the noise that it makes, so a careful listen might reveal the answer that you are looking for. If you hear no abnormal lifter noises, tick, or clack, I think it might be safe to assume that you will be able to just give the motor a good clean and drive it for another 1-2 years. From my personal experience, the VG engine can take a good overheating, on my previous max (red one), the water pump leaked when i was on the highway, so I had drive about 1/2 hours at about 40mph while the temp needle is at its max to a local mech shop to fill up on coolant. After the pump was replaced, all is well, and the engine ran just as strong as before.
80s 300zx engine into max is doable, but not without some work. While you are at it, why not just stuff a turbo one in the max as well? |
Originally Posted by disgruntled
(Post 6132270)
80s 300zx engine into max is doable, but not without some work. While you are at it, why not just stuff a turbo one in the max as well?
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stick tranny can hold up a while, reinforced x members as done by many others do hold up quite well... but mikekantor is right though...
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Originally Posted by disgruntled
(Post 6132270)
80s 300zx engine into max is doable, but not without some work. While you are at it, why not just stuff a turbo one in the max as well?
Did I mention this was for my girlfriend to drive? ;) To make any chance of performance mods even more remote, she refuses to drive a stick for a daily driver, so it has to be the auto. So unless there's a much stronger auto I can drop in... :p You've given me some good info to think over. If anyone else has advice, do chime in. Else, I'm going to ponder this for a bit. Thanks for the info thus far guys! |
Originally Posted by Dalez0r
(Post 6132379)
D So unless there's a much stronger auto I can drop in... :p
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Knocking distributor
Hi.
I haven't had the time to strip it totally open but thought I would ask here if someone know maybe. I have a knocking sound coming from the distributor, almost sound like a bearing going bad. I did quickly remove the distributor cap and the rotor and cap looks fine. What could be the problem? I'm fairly new to the maxima mechanicals. Any thoughts would help. Thanks |
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