Guide Pin Trouble
#1
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Guide Pin Trouble
I didnt want to thread jack the other brake thread, so here goes.
A while back, i noticed my brake power wasnt what it used to be, and i had a leak coming from the ABS modulator, so i figured theyre probably related. I replaced the ABS modulator and bled all the brakes with a friend and it seemed better. I went to test the brakes (abs needs a front sensor and the bolt is blocked by the sensor wire and in a very awkward spot, has anyone got any tips for removing the front left sensor?) so i went to lock the brakes up and only the fronts locked up. Turns out my rear guide pins were rusted, alot. So i took them out, sanded them with a wire wheel, and greased them like no tomorow. The only problem was, after i put it all back to gether i realized the boots were cracked, so i figured i had little time until they rusted again.
So i went to test them after fixing the pins and bleeding the brakes, and the e brake seemed much ebtter, but still, the rears dont lock up. With the ebrake pulled they do, suggesting the hydraulic pressure isnt enough to lock them? I put the car on a lift, and spun the backs tires by hand and applied the brake and they slowed/stopped.
So the back brakes are not getting enough stopping power, could it be guide pin or possibly a stuck piston? I understand the cracked boots may have caused the pins to rust up again, being in chicago, but i doubt they would have rusted shut within a day, so im thinking it could be a seized piston, or possibly still related to the pins, any suggestions? Any way to test these items?
A while back, i noticed my brake power wasnt what it used to be, and i had a leak coming from the ABS modulator, so i figured theyre probably related. I replaced the ABS modulator and bled all the brakes with a friend and it seemed better. I went to test the brakes (abs needs a front sensor and the bolt is blocked by the sensor wire and in a very awkward spot, has anyone got any tips for removing the front left sensor?) so i went to lock the brakes up and only the fronts locked up. Turns out my rear guide pins were rusted, alot. So i took them out, sanded them with a wire wheel, and greased them like no tomorow. The only problem was, after i put it all back to gether i realized the boots were cracked, so i figured i had little time until they rusted again.
So i went to test them after fixing the pins and bleeding the brakes, and the e brake seemed much ebtter, but still, the rears dont lock up. With the ebrake pulled they do, suggesting the hydraulic pressure isnt enough to lock them? I put the car on a lift, and spun the backs tires by hand and applied the brake and they slowed/stopped.
So the back brakes are not getting enough stopping power, could it be guide pin or possibly a stuck piston? I understand the cracked boots may have caused the pins to rust up again, being in chicago, but i doubt they would have rusted shut within a day, so im thinking it could be a seized piston, or possibly still related to the pins, any suggestions? Any way to test these items?
#2
I didnt want to thread jack the other brake thread, so here goes.
A while back, i noticed my brake power wasnt what it used to be, and i had a leak coming from the ABS modulator, so i figured theyre probably related. I replaced the ABS modulator and bled all the brakes with a friend and it seemed better. I went to test the brakes (abs needs a front sensor and the bolt is blocked by the sensor wire and in a very awkward spot, has anyone got any tips for removing the front left sensor?) so i went to lock the brakes up and only the fronts locked up. Turns out my rear guide pins were rusted, alot. So i took them out, sanded them with a wire wheel, and greased them like no tomorow. The only problem was, after i put it all back to gether i realized the boots were cracked, so i figured i had little time until they rusted again.
So i went to test them after fixing the pins and bleeding the brakes, and the e brake seemed much ebtter, but still, the rears dont lock up. With the ebrake pulled they do, suggesting the hydraulic pressure isnt enough to lock them? I put the car on a lift, and spun the backs tires by hand and applied the brake and they slowed/stopped.
So the back brakes are not getting enough stopping power, could it be guide pin or possibly a stuck piston? I understand the cracked boots may have caused the pins to rust up again, being in chicago, but i doubt they would have rusted shut within a day, so im thinking it could be a seized piston, or possibly still related to the pins, any suggestions? Any way to test these items?
A while back, i noticed my brake power wasnt what it used to be, and i had a leak coming from the ABS modulator, so i figured theyre probably related. I replaced the ABS modulator and bled all the brakes with a friend and it seemed better. I went to test the brakes (abs needs a front sensor and the bolt is blocked by the sensor wire and in a very awkward spot, has anyone got any tips for removing the front left sensor?) so i went to lock the brakes up and only the fronts locked up. Turns out my rear guide pins were rusted, alot. So i took them out, sanded them with a wire wheel, and greased them like no tomorow. The only problem was, after i put it all back to gether i realized the boots were cracked, so i figured i had little time until they rusted again.
So i went to test them after fixing the pins and bleeding the brakes, and the e brake seemed much ebtter, but still, the rears dont lock up. With the ebrake pulled they do, suggesting the hydraulic pressure isnt enough to lock them? I put the car on a lift, and spun the backs tires by hand and applied the brake and they slowed/stopped.
So the back brakes are not getting enough stopping power, could it be guide pin or possibly a stuck piston? I understand the cracked boots may have caused the pins to rust up again, being in chicago, but i doubt they would have rusted shut within a day, so im thinking it could be a seized piston, or possibly still related to the pins, any suggestions? Any way to test these items?
#3
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I understand the whole lock ups not good, hence abs being an option, but when braking, i can feel the fronts doing all the work and a good amount of nose dive. when holding the e brake halfway and braking i can feel the rears sort of diggin in as they brake and nosedive is reduced. And the rears get the brake fluid pressure before the fronts (granted only for a split second, or is that only on rear drum brakes, yeah i think thats it) But either way they are getting less braking pressure and its not good, also something i wanted to mention in the first post, my bad, is that the pedal goes all the way to the floor when im stopped, altho not toooo easily, but the fronts lock before i hit the floor when driving. A friend once told me his pedal did the same until he freed his frozen guide pins in the front.... hmm..
#4
your car more than likely comes equipped with...well i forgot the name.
but heres what it does
these devices are mounted on your rear subframe tied within your braking system and has a little link attacted to the trailing or parallel arm.
when there's very little load in the back certain amont of fluid is let in...hence why your rears don't lock up.
but if there was about one or two people in the rear then they would've locked up.
thats why mines locked up...cause i have a whole lot of junk in tha trunk.
but heres what it does
these devices are mounted on your rear subframe tied within your braking system and has a little link attacted to the trailing or parallel arm.
when there's very little load in the back certain amont of fluid is let in...hence why your rears don't lock up.
but if there was about one or two people in the rear then they would've locked up.
thats why mines locked up...cause i have a whole lot of junk in tha trunk.
#5
your car more than likely comes equipped with...well i forgot the name.
but heres what it does
these devices are mounted on your rear subframe tied within your braking system and has a little link attacted to the trailing or parallel arm.
when there's very little load in the back certain amont of fluid is let in...hence why your rears don't lock up.
but if there was about one or two people in the rear then they would've locked up.
thats why mines locked up...cause i have a whole lot of junk in tha trunk.
but heres what it does
these devices are mounted on your rear subframe tied within your braking system and has a little link attacted to the trailing or parallel arm.
when there's very little load in the back certain amont of fluid is let in...hence why your rears don't lock up.
but if there was about one or two people in the rear then they would've locked up.
thats why mines locked up...cause i have a whole lot of junk in tha trunk.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-27-2008 at 08:23 PM.
#6
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Lol, Oh Stillman. Thank you for the input, but I believe these valves were ONLY on the 92-94 SE's with ABS, and they are very rare. I am pretty sure i dont have them as ive checked before, but saw nothing. But then again im not 100% sure.
#7
i saw some at a JY recently. i forgot where tho. maybe on the car i took my VE struts from or something.
#8
Last edited by BenStoked; 03-27-2008 at 09:07 PM.
#9
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Hmmm, odd. Maybe i read or heard wrong, maybe theyre on my car, i got work in the next couple days and other things tying me up, but perhaps il inspect this closer, or put it on the lift at school to see whats really what. If I do have them, ive heard they are rare, and also that they are bypassable...Hopefully its something simpler, like a bad caliper. Time will tell. Ive got a parts car with perfect brakes, it had a $250 brake job done to it before i got it, so i could always try switching just about everything out since its the same trim/year. Except my tools are quite limited. Anyone else know anything about these LSVs?
Edit: Ben, i now see your pic, maybe i wasnt looking far enough into the subframe or w/e to see them, il have to check. Perhaps i can adjust them with those bolts, if mine arent rusted to H***
Edit: Ben, i now see your pic, maybe i wasnt looking far enough into the subframe or w/e to see them, il have to check. Perhaps i can adjust them with those bolts, if mine arent rusted to H***
#11
I guess all 3gen maximas have the double LSV's. (Double as our suspension is independently superior to 4,5th gen cart axle.).
U may adjust both LSV nuts. Try rotating [both] one turn at a time, then testing until brakes are what u want em to be... Or you may do as FSM tells, check pressures and adjust.
FSM; with added 1300lb rear =trunk load, measured brake fluid pressure should be:
- front pressure 710psi , rear 550-700
- front pressure 1400psi , rear 740-940
ABS computer pins do lose contact, check out. Run the self diagnostics to test your sensors...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/18
Life is like this w/o maintenance
U may adjust both LSV nuts. Try rotating [both] one turn at a time, then testing until brakes are what u want em to be... Or you may do as FSM tells, check pressures and adjust.
FSM; with added 1300lb rear =trunk load, measured brake fluid pressure should be:
- front pressure 710psi , rear 550-700
- front pressure 1400psi , rear 740-940
ABS computer pins do lose contact, check out. Run the self diagnostics to test your sensors...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/18
Life is like this w/o maintenance
#15
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thats what they should have done, since the non abs rears can probably lock up no problem, itd be nice to have the LSVs in there, we dont much need them do we? Either way our abs keeps them from locking, but then again the non abs car ppl didnt pay for abs when they bought it new from nissan, so nissan probably figured, forget them.
#16
thats what they should have done, since the non abs rears can probably lock up no problem, itd be nice to have the LSVs in there, we dont much need them do we? Either way our abs keeps them from locking, but then again the non abs car ppl didnt pay for abs when they bought it new from nissan, so nissan probably figured, forget them.
#18
- lets you to adjust the balance between front/rear
- automatic compensation when loads change
If you havent got bigger issues, why not? Will you/anybody notice it - who knows ... possibly saves your gf from spin in an slick emergency situation.
- automatic compensation when loads change
If you havent got bigger issues, why not? Will you/anybody notice it - who knows ... possibly saves your gf from spin in an slick emergency situation.
#19
but i dunno how to do that ... not on a flared precision fitting of that sort. you sure that's the easier choice, rather than taking both metal brake lines from mc-LSV, and LSV-caliper?
#20
ibsomeonereplieswiththe007smiley
well ya, of course i'd want my 'bigger issues' out of the way. But once i get the transmission situation resolved for good, i'm going to start on the super-overhaul of my suspension and brakes. ALL new bushings (fLCA, rLCA, PLinks, SB-to-frame, SB end links, PS rack), new BJs, swap for SE springs/sways, KYB all around, and a FSTB just for kicks.
AND THEN i'm doing a full brake treatment. HawkHPS all around w/ brembo rotors (maxima fronts, z31 rears) w/ LSVs.
and then i'm going to take a big deep breath.
#23
oh yea trust me.
from the mc the lines are fitted and routed on the car then routed under the lift point then routed i belive over the gas tank, but for sure routed over the rear subframe. then to the lsv's then routed to the calipers.
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