It's Always Something...
 

So I just got the car back from the alignment shop after installing the VLSD. Everything is great EXCEPT...the drivers side wheel bearing is definitely shot. :mad:

I got the tranny and the hubs last fall from Todamax's wrecked VE. The front passenger side had taken a decent side-swipe-type hit after it had been rear-ended. Both of the CV axles had been busted in the accident. Upon inspection of the hubs I could tell there was plenty of play in the passenger side bearing so I replaced it. The drivers side seemed fine. Well what I thought was was tire noise from the alignment being completely out-of-whack turned out to be a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side. Kinda sucks since a bearing and two seals is $75 from Brian (still cheaper than any parts store).

The only difference between VG and VE hub assemblies is the hub itself. The hub is just pressed into the bearing and is easily removeable with a slide hammer.

My thought is: could I swap the VG hub for the VE hub in my old VG wheel hub assembly w/o destroying the (still good) wheel bearing? The write-up I followed said the races will separate when you remove the hub, but when I did it the bearing still seemed to be in tact.

I'm pretty broke and have already spent quite a bit on this latest swap, so if I can save myself $75+ I'm all for it. Thoughts on this?

If it were me and I was in a pinch, I'd spent a few bucks at the junk yard and possibly get a good one. I took 2 ve5 hubs from a car with 260miles and they worked fine and still are on my car. Just a thought...


The junk yard I went to charged me 5 bucks a hub.

I live in BF Nowhere...A place where the one junkyard has little more than rusted-out Ford and Chevy pickups...If there were ever a Maxima in the yard it's been years...

Think my idea will work or do I have to bite the bullet and let my rolling money pit bleed me a little dryer?

the hub has different splines between the VE and the VG so you can't use a VG hub with VE Axles.

Old bearing is shot when taken out - 99.99% warranty. May seem fine like u said ... --->"The drivers side seemed fine."

New bearing will also be destroyed if not properly pressed in - absolutely no stress on the bearing inner ring.

Well, I ordered a new one from Brian, which is still $23 cheaper than the local Carquest...Why must this wheel bearing rain on my parade? :bustrun:

something about a lawyer named murphy...

Nooo. Keep happy: the three wheel bearings are working...

When you just spent $700, it's hard to be happy about spending another $100...but I see what you're saying...Don't worry, I still like the car.

Don't feel bad, I have a d-side wheel bearing out atm..:mad:

To the local j-yard we go..:run:

Just got done with the p-side on my Cougar. THAT was a pain in the *rse! Way to much beating on parts to remove them!

That's where I got the hub/spindle/bearing for the Cougar. Funny thing was that it was all pretty much laying on the ground in front of the car that had just been placed there. Somebody had JUST been there to get the Alternator and the easiest way to get it was to remove the front axle/strut/spindle/hub as an assembly. Saved me a ton of work to get it and cost me $30.

New wheel bearing is in, the car has been realigned, and she really MOVES!

"hey hey mama said the way you move, gonna make you sweat, gonna make groove" *air guitar*