The 12 sec VE Auto dies
#81
I am out of town right now. I will check it as soon as I get back in the office. I will be able to be REALLY certain on which parts will swap and which won't.
Thanks Hadley. Same here. I am pretty set on making a run at this. I know it's possible. So once the parts car or at least the engine is bought, it will happen some way or another.
Thanks Hadley. Same here. I am pretty set on making a run at this. I know it's possible. So once the parts car or at least the engine is bought, it will happen some way or another.
#82
Aaron sorry to hear about the explode but extremely glad to see your staying with it.
The maxima community wouldn't be the same without dedicated people like yourself.
Good luck with your future project. I look foward to seeing the beast.
The maxima community wouldn't be the same without dedicated people like yourself.
Good luck with your future project. I look foward to seeing the beast.
#83
yeah that does suck that the engine died like that, but if you pull this VQ35 off I may have to step back into the maxima game, haha. i do miss my maxima.
good luck with it, ill be sure to check back in on progress.
good luck with it, ill be sure to check back in on progress.
#85
One way to find out for sure if the VQ tranny will bolt up is to get the plate that goes between engine and tranny. It will have the bolt pattern built into it and be very cheap to get. This will tell you if you need to make a bell housing adapter or not. Also if the bolt spacing is different you can fix that with a custom drive plate. A worked VQ35 would be the ****, however working on the VE would mean lots of R&D in cam grinds and header design to get good power.
Not saying it can't be done but it won't have the torque the VQ35 would. Also it would be best to do all the internal modifications to the engine before it gets installed. I believe that if anyone does an engine swap, all gaskets/seals/O-rings/hoses/water pump should be replaced prior to install. Just think if you had a stand alone and some extra metal laying around you could make a stand to hold the engine and put it on an engine dyno. It would give you the convince of changing cams/exhaust/IMs easily, plus you can tune your stand alone WOT quicker while having better control of engine oil/coolant temps.
Not saying it can't be done but it won't have the torque the VQ35 would. Also it would be best to do all the internal modifications to the engine before it gets installed. I believe that if anyone does an engine swap, all gaskets/seals/O-rings/hoses/water pump should be replaced prior to install. Just think if you had a stand alone and some extra metal laying around you could make a stand to hold the engine and put it on an engine dyno. It would give you the convince of changing cams/exhaust/IMs easily, plus you can tune your stand alone WOT quicker while having better control of engine oil/coolant temps.
#86
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True true.
On to the predicament of your tran's, IMHO you would be much better off upgrading to the re4fofB, nissan went back to using the re4fo4A on some of the 2004 SL's, and what a **** show, those things don't take well to the 3.5
I know that closes some doors with regards to VLSD & tcm wiring, and makes it a PITA to swap the hubs over like that other guy, but think about the tourqe mang.
#87
I say go for the 3.5 swap,so you can be the third member on the org with a 3.5 in a 3rd ten including myself and my bro monstorc28. A low 12 second car is a fast daily driver, I am going the fully built turbo route,just waiting on injectors,cams and pistons. My brother 3rd gen has intake,exhaust,headers,and y pipe. The car pulls really good even without vtc,but if you go the full rewire you are going to love it.
Vq power
Vq power
#88
I say go for the 3.5 swap,so you can be the third member on the org with a 3.5 in a 3rd ten including myself and my bro monstorc28. A low 12 second car is a fast daily driver, I am going the fully built turbo route,just waiting on injectors,cams and pistons. My brother 3rd gen has intake,exhaust,headers,and y pipe. The car pulls really good even without vtc,but if you go the full rewire you are going to love it.
Vq power
Vq power
#89
One way to find out for sure if the VQ tranny will bolt up is to get the plate that goes between engine and tranny. It will have the bolt pattern built into it and be very cheap to get. This will tell you if you need to make a bell housing adapter or not. Also if the bolt spacing is different you can fix that with a custom drive plate. A worked VQ35 would be the ****, however working on the VE would mean lots of R&D in cam grinds and header design to get good power.
Not saying it can't be done but it won't have the torque the VQ35 would. Also it would be best to do all the internal modifications to the engine before it gets installed. I believe that if anyone does an engine swap, all gaskets/seals/O-rings/hoses/water pump should be replaced prior to install. Just think if you had a stand alone and some extra metal laying around you could make a stand to hold the engine and put it on an engine dyno. It would give you the convince of changing cams/exhaust/IMs easily, plus you can tune your stand alone WOT quicker while having better control of engine oil/coolant temps.
Not saying it can't be done but it won't have the torque the VQ35 would. Also it would be best to do all the internal modifications to the engine before it gets installed. I believe that if anyone does an engine swap, all gaskets/seals/O-rings/hoses/water pump should be replaced prior to install. Just think if you had a stand alone and some extra metal laying around you could make a stand to hold the engine and put it on an engine dyno. It would give you the convince of changing cams/exhaust/IMs easily, plus you can tune your stand alone WOT quicker while having better control of engine oil/coolant temps.
Why would I need a custom drive plate unless for some weird reason, the TC 4 bolt pattern is different?
True true.
On to the predicament of your tran's, IMHO you would be much better off upgrading to the re4fofB, nissan went back to using the re4fo4A on some of the 2004 SL's, and what a **** show, those things don't take well to the 3.5
I know that closes some doors with regards to VLSD & tcm wiring, and makes it a PITA to swap the hubs over like that other guy, but think about the tourqe mang.
On to the predicament of your tran's, IMHO you would be much better off upgrading to the re4fofB, nissan went back to using the re4fo4A on some of the 2004 SL's, and what a **** show, those things don't take well to the 3.5
I know that closes some doors with regards to VLSD & tcm wiring, and makes it a PITA to swap the hubs over like that other guy, but think about the tourqe mang.
I don't mind if my current tranny dies. If it does, I will most likely have it built up.
I say go for the 3.5 swap,so you can be the third member on the org with a 3.5 in a 3rd ten including myself and my bro monstorc28. A low 12 second car is a fast daily driver, I am going the fully built turbo route,just waiting on injectors,cams and pistons. My brother 3rd gen has intake,exhaust,headers,and y pipe. The car pulls really good even without vtc,but if you go the full rewire you are going to love it.
Vq power
Vq power
Whatever info you can post, please do. What did you end up doing for motor mounts exactly? Any shortcuts? I was not going to worry about that until I had the engine sitting inside the bay. Then I would grab several motor mounts from the VE and 5.5 gen to see what might come close to working with the least amount of fabrication. Then, I'd see what it would take to make the 5.5 gen crossmember work on the 3rd gen. If none of that will work, then I would just make custom mounts without any polyurethane. Just lock the engine down completely! I don't mind at all.
Also, what PS pump are you using? I was hoping to be able to somehow make the stock 3rd gen PS pump work on the VQ35.
#90
Ugh.. Sorry to hear about the dead engine aaron.. i am still waiting for my ve to do the same thing it has been clacking intermittently for over 100k now, so it is just a matter of time before i "experience' this issue i'm sure. No problem though, i have 336,500+ on her atm, so i really couldn't complain if it died today
I have access to a low mile ve at my local j-yard for $450, so blah if she goes, she goes
I have access to a low mile ve at my local j-yard for $450, so blah if she goes, she goes
#91
Ugh.. Sorry to hear about the dead engine aaron.. i am still waiting for my ve to do the same thing it has been clacking intermittently for over 100k now, so it is just a matter of time before i "experience' this issue i'm sure. No problem though, i have 336,500+ on her atm, so i really couldn't complain if it died today
I have access to a low mile ve at my local j-yard for $450, so blah if she goes, she goes
I have access to a low mile ve at my local j-yard for $450, so blah if she goes, she goes
or you could build it up a little, in the mean time?
#92
The area i live in is bow tie/blue oval/dodge country for the most part, 15 year old imports hold little value as far as rebuild/restorations go. Which is good for me sometimes because of the j-yard availability of parts.
#93
yea my setup is the same as my brothers, what we did was use the 4th gen axle with the 3rd gen part that enters the hub. the reason we did this is because we wanted to keep the ABS, we tried it with just the 4th gen axle but the Abs light was on so we just switch the ends. As far as the cross member( 4th gen - Up) goes we welded 4 bolts and nuts (24mm) we got from Home Depot to the body two at the bottom of the car close to where that bump his on the 3rd gen a few inches away from the original cross member bolt and the other two at the back where the back of the cross member meets the body. For the side mounts we cut out the side brackets that 8 points welded to the 4th gen- and then we separate them and weld them into the 3rd gen now the engine sits in the car like that's the way it was design from the factory.
#94
I also HIGHLY recommend marking down every part# you use in a notebook so that when the time comes to replace something you have a record of what you need.
#96
#97
#98
Sorry for the late reply. I've been busy towing the Maxima back to NC.
Thanks for the info. Do you or your brother have any pics to share of your setup? I'd definitely like to see how you made the motor mount.
Thanks. Will do.
That's good to know. I assume you just had a new hose made? And did you use the VQ30 or VQ35 pump?
yea my setup is the same as my brothers, what we did was use the 4th gen axle with the 3rd gen part that enters the hub. the reason we did this is because we wanted to keep the ABS, we tried it with just the 4th gen axle but the Abs light was on so we just switch the ends. As far as the cross member( 4th gen - Up) goes we welded 4 bolts and nuts (24mm) we got from Home Depot to the body two at the bottom of the car close to where that bump his on the 3rd gen a few inches away from the original cross member bolt and the other two at the back where the back of the cross member meets the body. For the side mounts we cut out the side brackets that 8 points welded to the 4th gen- and then we separate them and weld them into the 3rd gen now the engine sits in the car like that's the way it was design from the factory.
stick with the motor's PS pump. it is very easy to have a custom hose fabbed up rather than fabbing a custom bracket for the pump.
I also HIGHLY recommend marking down every part# you use in a notebook so that when the time comes to replace something you have a record of what you need.
I also HIGHLY recommend marking down every part# you use in a notebook so that when the time comes to replace something you have a record of what you need.
That's good to know. I assume you just had a new hose made? And did you use the VQ30 or VQ35 pump?
#100
Sorry for the late reply. This past weekend was a pretty busy one with the NWP East Coast Maxima Meet.
But nope, no updates just yet. I am still just getting all the info compiled and getting a master plan in mind before I first purchase the engine.
The 3rd gen still sits there dead.
But nope, no updates just yet. I am still just getting all the info compiled and getting a master plan in mind before I first purchase the engine.
The 3rd gen still sits there dead.
#101
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Asides from all of that stuff, as well as suprastick, I don't know what else is out there for parts to beef up the a/t's asides from the high-temp/low-shrink seals that are also included in the trans-go kits. But if you come across anything else please let me know since once the back-up tranny goes into my moms a33b I'm going to find out where all those metal shavings are coming from in the current one and beef it up for a little project I'm still looking for
#103
Preferably though you would want to ditch increasing the line pressure electronically and just install a trans-go in there, or swap out your valve body with one from maximum tuning, but really any trans shop can install the trans-go in your VB if you don't feel comfortable doing it.
#104
Exactly, they usually tend to get one of two symptoms that are kinda inherent to all RE4 failures, either dropping out of D at idle (Vehicle will not creep forward in D, acts like high-stall converter) or during the 1-2 shift it goes slip slip slip slip BANG when going from high to low tps mid-shift. At the least you would want (retain since IIRC you already have one) trans cooler, and slightly bumped up line pressure via the drop resistor, 330ohms FTW and by the time your car is back up I will have completed a mostly plug and play device for '9X-03's that will add the extra resistance only over 15-20mph so you don't lose your teeth in traffic. Preferably though you would want to ditch increasing the line pressure electronically and just install a trans-go in there, or swap out your valve body with one from maximum tuning, but really any trans shop can install the trans-go in your VB if you don't feel comfortable doing it.
Asides from all of that stuff, as well as suprastick, I don't know what else is out there for parts to beef up the a/t's asides from the high-temp/low-shrink seals that are also included in the trans-go kits. But if you come across anything else please let me know since once the back-up tranny goes into my moms a33b I'm going to find out where all those metal shavings are coming from in the current one and beef it up for a little project I'm still looking for
Asides from all of that stuff, as well as suprastick, I don't know what else is out there for parts to beef up the a/t's asides from the high-temp/low-shrink seals that are also included in the trans-go kits. But if you come across anything else please let me know since once the back-up tranny goes into my moms a33b I'm going to find out where all those metal shavings are coming from in the current one and beef it up for a little project I'm still looking for
I already have a trans cooler and a VB recalibration from Max Tuning. I got it done a good while ago through Matt (their tranny tech), which worked for Jeff. He did a GREAT job and fixed what the other guy couldn't.
#106
so aaron if you reuse your VE tranny w/ the VQ converter housing.... what're you gonna do about that VLSD unit? I don't know exactly how stiff it should be but i put the axles in my car night before last and when the car is in gear, it's touch as hell to spin the tire against the VLSD... for you i guess you'd do that in park...
#107
so aaron if you reuse your VE tranny w/ the VQ converter housing.... what're you gonna do about that VLSD unit? I don't know exactly how stiff it should be but i put the axles in my car night before last and when the car is in gear, it's touch as hell to spin the tire against the VLSD... for you i guess you'd do that in park...
#108
remember at the dragstrip back in November (KDS) your VLSD wasn't working very well? you were doing 1-tire burnouts, as i got on video for you....
#109
I won't worry about my VLSD right now. When the tranny blows, I'll worry about it then. It has 203K miles on it right now, which is pretty good with all the WOT runs I do. But we'll see how it handles the nitrous'd 3.5.
#110
The VLSD works, just probably not as well as it did brand new. The main reason I was only spinning one tire during my burnouts was b/c of the severe uneven slope that the waterbox was on. You know first hand how bad that track is. I have found out that I can only do a proper burnout in the left lane where the water box is perfectly flat. But in the right lane, only the right tire (the low side) will spin.
I won't worry about my VLSD right now. When the tranny blows, I'll worry about it then. It has 203K miles on it right now, which is pretty good with all the WOT runs I do. But we'll see how it handles the nitrous'd 3.5.
I won't worry about my VLSD right now. When the tranny blows, I'll worry about it then. It has 203K miles on it right now, which is pretty good with all the WOT runs I do. But we'll see how it handles the nitrous'd 3.5.
what are the LSD options in 95-03 VQ autos?
#112
oh i know, i just meant what you'd look at as a replacement once your current VE tranny does blow up from all the extra power.
#114
OH ok. And i guess if something goes horribly wrong internally and the casing or something irreplaceable like that is damaged you can always swap your valvebody upgrades over to your parts car tranny and have that built up by NRH instead, right?
#115
The casing usually is just fine when a tranny goes. But yes, I can reuse the upgraded VB and high stall converter once the tranny goes. They will just have to be fully rebuilt, cleaned and inspected since fragments go everywhere when a tranny dies. And it's better for Rob to build up the exact tranny that died so he can see which parts failed and try his best to strengthen them so it won't happen again.
#116
Here are some part numbers between the RE4F04V 92-94 Maxima tranny compared to the 3.5 RE4F04B 02-03 Maxima tranny. And a few RE4F04A's from the 95-99 Maxima.
31340-80X01 - Entire Oil Pump Assembly on VE
31340-80X01 - Entire OP on 02-03 3.5 Maxima RE4F04B
31340-80X01 - Entire OP on 04 Maxima RE4F04A
31340-80X01 - Entire OP on 95-99 Maxima RE4F04A
31341-80X00 - Oil pump housing on 3.5 RE4F04B
31341-80X00 - Oil pump housing on VE
31300-80X00 - Torque Converter Housing on VE
31300-81X04 - TC Housing on 3.5 RE4F04B
31300-80X04 - TC Housing on 4th gen RE4F04A
31395-80X01 - Cover Side tranny casing for VE
31395-88X01 - Cover side tranny casing for 3.5 RE4F04B
31310-80X04 - Entire case assembly for VE
31310-88X00 - Entire case assembly for 3.5 RE4F04B
31100-80X05 and 31100-80x04 - TC for VE
31100-85x05 - TC for 3.5 RE4F04B
31366-80X00 - oil pump gasket on VE
31366-80x01 - oil pump gasket on 3.5 RE4F04B
31300-80X00 - TC Housing on VE
31300-81X04 - TC Housing on 3.5 RE4F04B
31300-80X04 - TC Housing on 4th gen RE4F04A
32710-M8000 - Seal Oring for Speedo Pinion for 3.5 RE4F04B
32710-14600 - Seal Oring for Speedo Pinion on VE
So the tranny oil pump assembly are exactly the same. But I haven't completely confirmed that the bolt pattern is the same on the backside of the TC housing where it meets the tranny casing.
Edit: I decided to clean this up a little bit and to include a couple more bits of info. The tranny oil pump assembly is exactly the same between the VE, 4th gen, 5.5 gen and the RE4F04As in the 6th gen.
31340-80X01 - Entire Oil Pump Assembly on VE
31340-80X01 - Entire OP on 02-03 3.5 Maxima RE4F04B
31340-80X01 - Entire OP on 04 Maxima RE4F04A
31340-80X01 - Entire OP on 95-99 Maxima RE4F04A
31341-80X00 - Oil pump housing on 3.5 RE4F04B
31341-80X00 - Oil pump housing on VE
31300-80X00 - Torque Converter Housing on VE
31300-81X04 - TC Housing on 3.5 RE4F04B
31300-80X04 - TC Housing on 4th gen RE4F04A
31395-80X01 - Cover Side tranny casing for VE
31395-88X01 - Cover side tranny casing for 3.5 RE4F04B
31310-80X04 - Entire case assembly for VE
31310-88X00 - Entire case assembly for 3.5 RE4F04B
31100-80X05 and 31100-80x04 - TC for VE
31100-85x05 - TC for 3.5 RE4F04B
31366-80X00 - oil pump gasket on VE
31366-80x01 - oil pump gasket on 3.5 RE4F04B
31300-80X00 - TC Housing on VE
31300-81X04 - TC Housing on 3.5 RE4F04B
31300-80X04 - TC Housing on 4th gen RE4F04A
32710-M8000 - Seal Oring for Speedo Pinion for 3.5 RE4F04B
32710-14600 - Seal Oring for Speedo Pinion on VE
So the tranny oil pump assembly are exactly the same. But I haven't completely confirmed that the bolt pattern is the same on the backside of the TC housing where it meets the tranny casing.
Edit: I decided to clean this up a little bit and to include a couple more bits of info. The tranny oil pump assembly is exactly the same between the VE, 4th gen, 5.5 gen and the RE4F04As in the 6th gen.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 10-08-2008 at 06:27 AM. Reason: Update to include more models
#117
Last night, I scored a 4th gen torque converter housing. As soon as it arrives, I will compare the TC housing bolt pattern to the main casing of my VE tranny to make sure everything will bolt up. In the meantime, I have to pull the transmission off my parts car so I can easily compare patterns. I'm not ready to yank the tranny off my main broken VE just yet.
If this works, I will immediately start buying the parts I need to do this 3.5 swap. I just want to have a complete plan before I take the first step and buy the engine. This is getting exciting!
Update: Oh well, I didn't score a TC housing. Turns out it was cracked and couldn't be used. If anybody has one they can sell me from an old 95-03 tranny they have lying around, please let me know. Thanks.
If this works, I will immediately start buying the parts I need to do this 3.5 swap. I just want to have a complete plan before I take the first step and buy the engine. This is getting exciting!
Update: Oh well, I didn't score a TC housing. Turns out it was cracked and couldn't be used. If anybody has one they can sell me from an old 95-03 tranny they have lying around, please let me know. Thanks.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 10-08-2008 at 07:35 AM.
#119
Last night, I scored a 4th gen torque converter housing. As soon as it arrives, I will compare the TC housing bolt pattern to the main casing of my VE tranny to make sure everything will bolt up. In the meantime, I have to pull the transmission off my parts car so I can easily compare patterns. I'm not ready to yank the tranny off my main broken VE just yet.
If this works, I will immediately start buying the parts I need to do this 3.5 swap. I just want to have a complete plan before I take the first step and buy the engine. This is getting exciting!
Update: Oh well, I didn't score a TC housing. Turns out it was cracked and couldn't be used. If anybody has one they can sell me from an old 95-03 tranny they have lying around, please let me know. Thanks.
If this works, I will immediately start buying the parts I need to do this 3.5 swap. I just want to have a complete plan before I take the first step and buy the engine. This is getting exciting!
Update: Oh well, I didn't score a TC housing. Turns out it was cracked and couldn't be used. If anybody has one they can sell me from an old 95-03 tranny they have lying around, please let me know. Thanks.
#120
I got a converter housing thanks to pmohr! It should be here sometime early next week.
And just yesterday afternoon, I pulled the auto tranny from my 92 parts car so I can yank the converter housing and be ready to compare bolt patterns as soon as it arrives.
Here's the VE converter housing bolt pattern:
Here's the RE4F04A from a 4th gen:
And just yesterday afternoon, I pulled the auto tranny from my 92 parts car so I can yank the converter housing and be ready to compare bolt patterns as soon as it arrives.
Here's the VE converter housing bolt pattern:
Here's the RE4F04A from a 4th gen: