Oh no, not again
10-28-2008, 07:56 PM
#41
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Yesterday I put the interior back in, and when I connected the battery I saw that the present ECU was bad after all. It just had a solid red light and wouldnt respond to any diagnostics.
Today I changed oil, oil filter, air filter, and ECU. No more bad ECU symptoms, but the car wont start. Crank, crank, crank, nothing. Exhaust smells like gasoline. I pulled one of the spark plugs and it is wet with gasoline, but otherwise clean. Seems like no spark in any cylinders, so tomorrow I guess I'll check over the ignition relays and whatever else could be relevant to this. Suggestions?
Today I changed oil, oil filter, air filter, and ECU. No more bad ECU symptoms, but the car wont start. Crank, crank, crank, nothing. Exhaust smells like gasoline. I pulled one of the spark plugs and it is wet with gasoline, but otherwise clean. Seems like no spark in any cylinders, so tomorrow I guess I'll check over the ignition relays and whatever else could be relevant to this. Suggestions?
10-28-2008, 11:57 PM
#42
Yesterday I put the interior back in, and when I connected the battery I saw that the present ECU was bad after all. It just had a solid red light and wouldnt respond to any diagnostics.
Today I changed oil, oil filter, air filter, and ECU. No more bad ECU symptoms, but the car wont start. Crank, crank, crank, nothing. Exhaust smells like gasoline. I pulled one of the spark plugs and it is wet with gasoline, but otherwise clean. Seems like no spark in any cylinders, so tomorrow I guess I'll check over the ignition relays and whatever else could be relevant to this. Suggestions?
Today I changed oil, oil filter, air filter, and ECU. No more bad ECU symptoms, but the car wont start. Crank, crank, crank, nothing. Exhaust smells like gasoline. I pulled one of the spark plugs and it is wet with gasoline, but otherwise clean. Seems like no spark in any cylinders, so tomorrow I guess I'll check over the ignition relays and whatever else could be relevant to this. Suggestions?
10-29-2008, 05:57 AM
#43
what is the equivalent to the VG's ignition coil (whatever supplies the power to the VE's coils in the first place)? That would be my hunch.
Or perhaps one of the sensors (cam sensor, crank sensor, etc.) is fried?
Or perhaps one of the sensors (cam sensor, crank sensor, etc.) is fried?
10-29-2008, 06:00 AM
#44
10-29-2008, 09:57 AM
#45
PTU or crank sensor.
BUT.. make sure the oxygen sensor connector isn't flooded. if it's flooded with water (it was submerged based on the pics you showed), then the wires inside could be shorting and causing the ECU to go haywire.
simply unplug the O2 sensor and check. if it's full of water, spray some WD-40 or alcohol in it and let it dry. the car should run without the O2 connected, so you can check it immediately. just unplg and try to start the car while the connector is drying.
BUT.. make sure the oxygen sensor connector isn't flooded. if it's flooded with water (it was submerged based on the pics you showed), then the wires inside could be shorting and causing the ECU to go haywire.
simply unplug the O2 sensor and check. if it's full of water, spray some WD-40 or alcohol in it and let it dry. the car should run without the O2 connected, so you can check it immediately. just unplg and try to start the car while the connector is drying.
10-29-2008, 05:13 PM
#46
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I got all psyched for the investigation, printed FSM pages, found my dmm, but then the engine just decided to work on its own. All I got to do was check a few fuses, one of them made the alarm go off when I put it back in, and after that it started instantly.
The test drive went well, although it seems underpowered compared to what I remember... but it may be my imagination. In case there actually is less power, I suspect that the ECU just has to learn for a while and it should be back to normal. The only other cause I can think of is the new cone filter, its larger and has an opening on the top, my old one had a flat top, so maybe it flows a bit too much for this engine.
The test drive went well, although it seems underpowered compared to what I remember... but it may be my imagination. In case there actually is less power, I suspect that the ECU just has to learn for a while and it should be back to normal. The only other cause I can think of is the new cone filter, its larger and has an opening on the top, my old one had a flat top, so maybe it flows a bit too much for this engine.
10-29-2008, 06:00 PM
#47
I think you still have some water/moisture somewhere in the electrical system causing the weird no start/then fine issue, hopefully there will be a good stretch of dry/warm weather in your area to aid in drying things out.
A good long drive may help things out. if your not scuurd of breaking down in the wrong part of town.
A good long drive may help things out. if your not scuurd of breaking down in the wrong part of town.
10-29-2008, 06:44 PM
#48
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I think you still have some water/moisture somewhere in the electrical system causing the weird no start/then fine issue, hopefully there will be a good stretch of dry/warm weather in your area to aid in drying things out.
A good long drive may help things out. if your not scuurd of breaking down in the wrong part of town.
A good long drive may help things out. if your not scuurd of breaking down in the wrong part of town.
10-30-2008, 12:50 AM
#52
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Above critical flow threshold level, it wont help adding more flow capacity. If the issue is still in the filter, then its the form that is critical. Get the same type filter you had...