Battery keeps dying, why!?
04-23-2009, 08:02 AM
#41
I normally do the bearings myself if its ok electrically, but if you dont have the tools or the inclination then its probably best to suffer the noise or replace with a guaranteed rebuilt/new unit - I would say your 14,5 V alty is electrically still usable for quite a while
No lubrication is possible because the 2 bearings are of a sealed design - ie - you cannot get oil in there even if you could reach them without stripping the whole thing and if you wanted to
No lubrication is possible because the 2 bearings are of a sealed design - ie - you cannot get oil in there even if you could reach them without stripping the whole thing and if you wanted to
Yeah, I've popped open a few of these alty's myself
, the bearings themselves are not that hard to access, but resourcing the correct replacement bearings is where i had problems..I had a bad alty lying around with good bearings, but i lost track of it when i moved..
04-23-2009, 08:27 AM
#42
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
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I normally do the bearings myself if its ok electrically, but if you dont have the tools or the inclination then its probably best to suffer the noise or replace with a guaranteed rebuilt/new unit - I would say your 14,5 V alty is electrically still usable for quite a while
No lubrication is possible because the 2 bearings are of a sealed design - ie - you cannot get oil in there even if you could reach them without stripping the whole thing and if you wanted to
No lubrication is possible because the 2 bearings are of a sealed design - ie - you cannot get oil in there even if you could reach them without stripping the whole thing and if you wanted to
04-23-2009, 08:37 AM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
Screwdrivers or small hex sockets (depending on specific alty) to remove the long retaining bolts keeping the 3 bigger portions of the alty together - the same for the regulator/brush assembly
Big spanner/socket to remove the pulley locknut
The difficult one possibly - Depending on amount of corrosion on the shaft you may need a puller to remove the pulley - the same for the bearings from the housing and also the bearings from the shaft.
Bearings are so cheap I wouldn't even consider swapping bearings from the known good alty at all - depending on the amount of care and also the corrosion on the shaft, most the time they will get damaged in the removal process anyway.
You need a bit of logic and a great deal of care to ensure you don't damage the brush assemblies on the regulator when removing/fitting
04-23-2009, 11:15 AM
#45
Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 231
If you have a bench vice to keep things steady it would be good, but you can get by without one.
Screwdrivers or small hex sockets (depending on specific alty) to remove the long retaining bolts keeping the 3 bigger portions of the alty together - the same for the regulator/brush assembly
Big spanner/socket to remove the pulley locknut
The difficult one possibly - Depending on amount of corrosion on the shaft you may need a puller to remove the pulley - the same for the bearings from the housing and also the bearings from the shaft.
Bearings are so cheap I wouldn't even consider swapping bearings from the known good alty at all - depending on the amount of care and also the corrosion on the shaft, most the time they will get damaged in the removal process anyway.
You need a bit of logic and a great deal of care to ensure you don't damage the brush assemblies on the regulator when removing/fitting
Screwdrivers or small hex sockets (depending on specific alty) to remove the long retaining bolts keeping the 3 bigger portions of the alty together - the same for the regulator/brush assembly
Big spanner/socket to remove the pulley locknut
The difficult one possibly - Depending on amount of corrosion on the shaft you may need a puller to remove the pulley - the same for the bearings from the housing and also the bearings from the shaft.
Bearings are so cheap I wouldn't even consider swapping bearings from the known good alty at all - depending on the amount of care and also the corrosion on the shaft, most the time they will get damaged in the removal process anyway.
You need a bit of logic and a great deal of care to ensure you don't damage the brush assemblies on the regulator when removing/fitting
06-23-2009, 08:11 PM
#46
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
MRKANDA, did the problem got solved after the swap of alty? I have the same problem and should I change the alternator? , I figured out that one of the cables from the batt, when disconnected stops draining the batt. I don't know where the cable leads too.
06-23-2009, 09:48 PM
#47
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alachua, FL 32615
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Take it to a local Auto parts store or rebuilder where they rebuild alternators, starters, etc and have them test/charge the battery and test the alternator. Then you should be able to tell what you need. Sometimes a dead or dying battery won't give you the proper reading. So, unless the battery is new you might need to swap it out with a new one to properly test the alternator.
Of course the best way to test the alternator is to take it off the car and test it on the bench. It's not that hard to get off. You just need a ratchet and some 12mm and 14mm sockets and possibly a short extension.
Good luck.
Of course the best way to test the alternator is to take it off the car and test it on the bench. It's not that hard to get off. You just need a ratchet and some 12mm and 14mm sockets and possibly a short extension.
Good luck.
06-24-2009, 07:10 AM
#48
Take it to a local Auto parts store or rebuilder where they rebuild alternators, starters, etc and have them test/charge the battery and test the alternator. Then you should be able to tell what you need. Sometimes a dead or dying battery won't give you the proper reading. So, unless the battery is new you might need to swap it out with a new one to properly test the alternator.
Of course the best way to test the alternator is to take it off the car and test it on the bench. It's not that hard to get off. You just need a ratchet and some 12mm and 14mm sockets and possibly a short extension.
Good luck.
Of course the best way to test the alternator is to take it off the car and test it on the bench. It's not that hard to get off. You just need a ratchet and some 12mm and 14mm sockets and possibly a short extension.
Good luck.
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