93 se auto is wanting to die any help???
 

ok so here is my problem. the other day my max started to act up; below 3000rpm the engine surges and stumbles and basicly has no power. the transmission will lock into 2nd or 3rd until i give it more gas, then is will bump down to the proper gear. also after the engine reaches 3000 rpm it takes of like a bat out of hell with no problems all the way through the redline. any help? pcv valve? spark plugs? any one else have this problem?

Sounds like it's time for you to pull some codes. Check the General Maintenance Sticky and go from there.

If it takes off when you hit the high end, you probably need a new knock sensor. Could be a combination of things though. Did you ever replace those coil packs since last year? Might have a bad injector too.

i was lucky enough that i didnt have to change the coil packs, that problem was loose coil pack connectors but im not so lucky this time. i will pull the codes later this morning and hopefully find something. it just shocks me that this all started on about monday of last week with no problems before then.

ok well i couldnt sleep with this crap on my mind soo i went out and pulled only one code. 34 the dang knock sensor!!! getting the money to do it is no problem. but not having any tools and only myself to do it is and i dont want to drive it if its acting like it is. so i guess im stuck with no car for now. lame:mad:

if you were further east I'd say put 93 octane gas in and use the resistor bypass until you can replace the KS. but since you are on the west coast you don't get 93 octane gas.

sadly no we dont get 93. but i was almost going to get a e85 conversion kit to have basicly 105

higher octane, yes
but at the expense of mpg

yes i would loose mpg's but its over 80 cents cheaper than 91 here

Does it happen constantly? I had a VE that needed a bad knock sensor and if I shut it off and back on when the timing was stuck, it would adjust properly for another several minutes after the cycle. It helps to try and stay on the freeway as much as possible. Stop and go is no good with a bad KS. If the low end is more problematic than just gutless acceleration, it might be more than the knock sensor. Pull each coil connector and check for a miss. I think you just need to pull the plenum and manifold to replace the sensor. Never did it on that car, sold it to someone who didn't mind that they had to shut it on and off.

yea i have to drive it in stop and go to get to work sadly. when i first start to drive it it runs great for about 5 min and then i get the lag and shudder. if i take it to nissan they are going to charge me like a grand to do the knock sensor, water pump, and new hoses and belts. so i am going to take it to a shop that my boss uses and get a discount where it will only cost about $700. normally i would just do the work myself and say screw the shops but all of my tools where stolen by an ex-friend (for drugs im guessing) so i have no choice but to take it in. normaly i could live with no power but i have to drive in downtown portland to get to work so not an option for me.

so does anyone have a estimate on how much a average nissan dealer would charge for the knock sensor and water pump with new hoses and belts to be installed???

more than the value of the car.

i figured that. dang

it's labor intensive but very doable by oneself. you have to take the whole intake manifold off to get to the knock sensor tho which means new gaskets for the lower and upper intake and a few extra vac lines to replace the ones that inevitably break. and the water pump is driven by one of the other accessory belts so it's just a bolt-off-bolt on deal (unlike on the VQ-series engine that 95 and newer maximas have, where it's inside the timing cover, driven by the timing chain :noes:)

and as for not having tools... they are an investment in your future. something you ought to have even if you don't think you're gonna use them much.. because with older cars you're gonna use them more than you think/want haha

You could always buy a new set of tools for a lot less than what you would be paying for labor.. Go to the TC Sears and grab a new socket set, breaker bar, screwdriver with various bits included (the hex bit you need will be there), torque wrench, needle nose and slip lock pliers.

Still have to pay for parts though. The knock sensor is about $100, plenum gasket $10, 2 manifold gaskets ~$70. VEs can be a pain.. But if you do it yourself, that's only about $270 with new tools included.

after thinking long and hard about what to do... i will have to do it myself.

so im taking the car to nissan to check it out and make sure thats the only problem. then im getting all the parts and tools and am just going to crack down and do it

don't forget to get a 3/8" drive torque wrench.. and maybe even a 1/4" drive if you can find one. when using steel bolts in aluminum holes (like with the intake) you will want to make sure you don't have them too tight because the threads on the bolts will win.

I have a bad knock sensor also, but I don't notice any difference in performance, you might have another problem.

how do you know yours is bad? ecu code?

yes your ecu will throw a code 34 i believe. and i went to gladstone nissan and for $73 the totaly checked my car over every square inch (just to make sure) and only the knock sensor and my trans fluid was low but overall the service there is great.