power steering hose replacement bracket
#1
power steering hose replacement bracket
The Low Pressure (LP) 3/8" return hose cracked. A bracket on the fire wall ties it with the high pressure metal line. How to take apart the backet to insert a new LP hose?
Or do you just cut the hose and by-pass the bracket? If by-passing the bracket, how to stop it from rattling and rubbing against the other surfaces?
Or do you just cut the hose and by-pass the bracket? If by-passing the bracket, how to stop it from rattling and rubbing against the other surfaces?
#3
Here's a picture. I cut the hose at one end (left in picture) to try to slide the hose out of the bracket, but there's a metal tube within the hose, so didn't slide out (likely to stop the hose from crushing by the bracket). Hose is 10 mm i.d.
http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/...0311012158.jpg
Last edited by OnTheRoad; 03-11-2011 at 10:29 PM.
#4
Whoops i guess i forgot how things looked, but there is only 2 lines to the pump, one that has the metal bracket that goes to the top of the strut tower and the other one that goes to the reservoir to the pump. Only 2 leads to the pump, and the high pressure on the bottom is connected to an L bracket type metal tube to the pump.
#5
I looked over the parts catalog and the LP and HP lines are sold as a unit. So of the newer ones have a bracket that can come apart for replacent of individual hose or line. Looks like a by-pass to me. Only have 3/8" at Kragen and no 10 mm hose. Likely to rap a old water hose as padding and tie it to the existing bracket.
#6
Finished, but would of gone faster and easier with OEM 10mm hose instead of 3/8 (9.5mm). Too tight to slide on the 3/8". To disassemble the bracket (in picture) used 5" nibbler to pry tab, then long nose pliers to straight the tab. Assemble was to harder for the alignment, use to channel pliers -- one to hold the bracket and one to bend the tab.
I disasseble the low tubing from the side wall to busted hose. Real pain. Best to use 10 mm hose so you don't need to do that. Replace the two cracking 90 degree hoses with the 3/8" hose bent to 90 degress. Local autoparts store didn't have the 90 degree elbow.
The staight OEM hose is actually two hose with a splice where the bracket clamps down on it. The OEM wire clamps are also much better than the Europen hose clamps. Two seals and stronger. One was Euro clamp gave out, so I had to replace disassemble and replace it.
Tools to make the job easier is a speader plier to remove the hose. I used a body faster removal tool for the speader. Buy OEM or 10mm hose for this job. I would have reduce to time to 1.5 hours for the main hose and 0.8 for the elbows. Took 5 hours with all the tubing removal.
I disasseble the low tubing from the side wall to busted hose. Real pain. Best to use 10 mm hose so you don't need to do that. Replace the two cracking 90 degree hoses with the 3/8" hose bent to 90 degress. Local autoparts store didn't have the 90 degree elbow.
The staight OEM hose is actually two hose with a splice where the bracket clamps down on it. The OEM wire clamps are also much better than the Europen hose clamps. Two seals and stronger. One was Euro clamp gave out, so I had to replace disassemble and replace it.
Tools to make the job easier is a speader plier to remove the hose. I used a body faster removal tool for the speader. Buy OEM or 10mm hose for this job. I would have reduce to time to 1.5 hours for the main hose and 0.8 for the elbows. Took 5 hours with all the tubing removal.
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