HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Has anyone repaired the LED display for the automatic climate control system? Mine varies from full brightness to unreadable at night. The problem seems to have no root cause. I have had the control unit out and have looked for blown components with no luck. This is a very expensive part that probably needs a $0.50 part.

Thanks in advance...
90 SE 5sp

If you know what you're doing, have you tried taking it apart and looking for something as simple as dirty/corroded contacts?

Also: how hard was it to remove? I'd have to extract mine one day if more bulbs burn out....

Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Sorry, I do not know answer to your problem. Let me share my story on my 1991 Maxima SE heater control. (I am looking for a cheap 1991 Nissan Factory Service Manual because of my electrical problem.) My alternator cable blew out? When I replaced it, the radio and heater did not work. I fixed radio by replacing fuse on back of radio.

It took forever to get dash out to look at A/C control - My blower fan works so problem is in control - I did not have the nerve to disconnect temperature cable and take control out. The dealer price given at the wrecking yard was $600 for control. Wrecking yard did not have one.

On an encouraging note, when I have had electrical, like you to say they can be fixed with a $.50 part if you hang in there, but it is aggravating as hell.

Hmmm Odd this post was reported. Sorry I'm not savy on the climate control stuff.

Weirdness. Maybe someone's calling BS on our superior climate controlled SE's!! Bwahahaahahahaha!!!

Canadian Maxes rule! :D

I'll tell you what....the heating system in my '90 is the most comfortable I have ever experienced, and I've been driving a long time. However, this problem with the display going dim is just one more example of Nissan's second rate electrical components. Add this to the list that includes daytime running lites, keyless entry, crappy radios, digital dashes, etc...In all fairness, Nissan buys all these bits but the quality control at the supplier level leaves someththing to be desired.

BTW, I'm still looking for help.....Where is my nisstech angel....

Later, '90 SE

It's actually do-able. Read carefully and work slowly, learning as you go.
---->INSTRUCTIONS<-------
Remove the 4 screws holding the plastic bezel that covers the heater controls and radio. There are 2 above the radio and 2 at the bottom - remove the ashtray to get at them. Don't remove the bezel yet!
Next remove the plastic bezel around the stick shift by prying up the 2 tabs at the rear (furthest from the dash)and pulling the bezel rearward, to release the heater bezel at the bottom.
Now remove the heater bezel by pulling straight back at the very top to release the 3 clips. Undo all the wire connectors-pushing the release tabs while pulling. Take special note of the hose and electrical connector that attaches on the left side,centre. If you forget to re-connect this hose and wire the heater goes to max heat and stays there.
Remove the radio by removing the 4 screws-2 per side. Pull forward enough to get under the heater control.
Now remove the 4 silver screws that hold in the heating control. (The black ones hold the dash together and don't come out) Push the control into the dash and angle toward the right side to remove sideways on an angle.You may have to break the clip that holds the wiring harness to the dash to get it out further. Unplug the wiring harness via the 2 plugs at the rear. They are tight and need to be wiggled free while pushing the release tab. Don't worry about the fresh air control cable-it stays attached.
The bulbs are located on the underside of the heater control, pointing towards the front of the car. The bulb and socket assembly are held in with a 1/4 turn. There are also 2 for the fresh air slider on the left. You need to remove the front cover on the heater control by carefully prying on the little plastic tabs on the top and bottom. Slip off the front cover and the bulbs are on the back side.

To remove the circuit board for the heater control, remove the 2 small screws at the top/rear and pry up the 6 little plastic tabs (same as the front cover).Don't forget that rubber hose on the centre radio/heater bezel!

Go slow and careful. When finished, make sure all the wires/hose are reconnected. They are all different so you can't get them mixed up - called Poka-Yoked by the Japanese (idiot-proofed).

Let me know how you make out.

BTW the 6 bulbs that light up the buttons are NOT the same as the LEDs that display the heating settings!

:eek: Holy cow! That was waaaaaay more than I asked for since I've no intention of doing anything as of yet, but THANKS!!! :)

Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Keep looking for a used one. I know they are out there.

Also read my post for removal instructions of the heater control ( called auto-amp in Nissan manual) if you want to explore further. You should check for 12v at the connector in the back of the auto-amp. There should be 12V at terminals 1,2&3 on the LARGER connector. Terminal #1 is at the upper left corner looking at the plug with the release tab on the top side. Terminal #2 is to the right of #1 and #3 is the 5th one over (counting from #1).(I know it doesn't sound correct but that is what the nissan factory manual shows). If you have voltage the amp is probably pooched. If no voltage, look for a blown fuse. Make sure the key is on.

Hey Bman,

What is an FSTB??
'90 SE

(shhhh...don't tell anyone you didn't search);) Well, a FSTB stands for Front Strut Tower Brace (or Bar). It's a metal brace that goes across your engine bay and connects the two strut towers so that they don't flex inward under hard cornering. Read the "FSTB" link here for more info: http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/ Here's a pic to show one in an engine bay that should be very similar to yours: CLICK

I'm proudly announcing mine because I am the first to have a FSTB that will fit properly on my DOHC VE-engined Maxima in a while! 92-94 SE Maximas have a DOHC "VE" engine unlike your SOHC "VG" engine. It's got a very tall and intrusive intake manifold that interferes with most strut bars. Courtesy Nissan USED to make a FSTB that fit, but it's been discontinued for a few years. People with our engine have either done without, or bent or welded 4th Generation Maxima bars to "fit". I discovered just a few days ago that the Courtesy FSTB made for 99-02 Maximas fit beautifully, ending a long quest! If you're curious, here's my post: Click Again

However, since you have a 1990 Maxima, you don't need to get this bar, and you have lots of choices of 4th Gen FSTBs that will fit your car. Prices start at $30 or less on eBay (I think www.street-beat.com has them cheap as well) and up. Any generic bar will fit your car, but some look fanicer than others.... that is, if you even want/need one :)

Search for this topic if you want an earful of opinions! I got it because it might help handling a bit (I think it does a bit), it looks cool under the hood, and I wanted to do something good for the 3rd Gen community.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bman
[B](shhhh...don't tell anyone you didn't search);) Well, a FSTB stands for Front Strut Tower Brace (or Bar). It's a metal brace that goes across your engine bay.....


Hey, Bman, likewise that was a great explanation, and one worthy of your photos. I guess I'm going to have to drive my baby harder b4 I would make use of one.

Cheers

Re: Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Thanks for info. I apprecriate the reply. Could I ask if you know of cheaper place to get factory service manual rather than through dealer?

Re: Re: Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Try www.swapmeet2000.com for a used one. The repair manuals at the auto parts stores (hayes, clymer, etc) are cheap and very informative. Your can also order from indigo.com, etc.

Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

I put in the fix today... found that $0.50 part! Nissan wants $700.(CDN) Let me know if you need help....

Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Thanks. I am new so unfamliar procedures. My problem is a voltage spike got my control (manual) most likely diodes. I suppose I need the whole control unit. In any case I want to get by as inexpensive as possible. The result is heater fan motor is not turn on. (motor is good)

Thanks.

I have a '90 Max Se with the climate control unit in Windsor, Ont. Had the exact same problem. The bulbs only light the buttons and the fresh air lever. The display on the climate control unit is a flourescent display unit. Mine would go from very dim to completely lit sometimes. I took the unit out and disassembled it. I found a few solder joints that had to be resoldered. That was it the system has worked perfectly ever since.

Thanks for the post. I too removed my control (several times) and discovered that if I flexed the circuit board I could make the display go bright/dim. I poked around with a sharp wooden stick and found the offending component - a resistor I think, very tiny) and just by poking it I "fixed" the display. A week later the problem reappeared indicating that soldering is required. Now I know where to solder!
Thanks.

Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

If the climate control display is fixed, would you please tell me what was the problem and how did you fix it. I have the same problem (the digital display sometimes dim). Thanks

Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

My last post indicated how I found the problem. I resoldered the connections for a permanent fix. ($700 saved!-kaching!!)

Re: Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Hmmmm, you've got me tempted Martin but.....I live in Las Vegas, one setting, 65 degrees lol, when it lights up I make sure it's set there. Can't remember when the last time I used the heater, don't know if it be worth risking screwing something else up......

Re: Re: Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

It is not a difficult job, if you are mechanically inclined, patient and can handle a soldering iron (pencil type preferably). The PC (Printed circuit) board has to be removed from the control housing and then plugged back in to find the solder break. Next time you have an hour to kill pull the unit out and try to find the location on the PC board. Push on the components opposite the solder side with a wooden dowel sharpened like a pencil. My problem was a tiny resistor near the middle of the board. Yours can be somewhere else on the board. Maybe you have a friend with some PC experience that can help. It is a real satisfying repair because it's such an easy repair; once you find the location just remelt the solder on the offending component and those around it. Much easier than rebuilding the 5 speed tranny!! Good luck.

Martin,

can u send in a picture of where the bad solder is located. I got the same problem with the cliamte control, sometimes its dim and sometimes its bright.
Thanks to my climate control unit, i know all of the nuts and bolts of my dash. I'll give the CC unit hell. Its the least i can do for all the frustration its caused me...:p

why is that us canadians have the digital climate control only?
maybe somw US 3rdgen maximas have it but i never see them.
hooray for CANADA

how did u fix it? PM me. My digital CC has also gone nuts!!
Thanks.

Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Actually, I fixed my climate control unit, it was pretty easy, took it out and resoldered the joints on it, if you reconnect it while you have it taken apart, (be careful) you can find the faulty joint and resolder it. Took me about 5 minutes to fix.

Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Martin....HELP!

you say u fixed the climate control dimming problem??? i have the same problem and i just took mine out...there seems to be nothing wrong with it as far as looking at the cirbuit board is concerned...

what should i look for and what is the fix?????

we got snow incoming in exactly 2 days!!! need the heater working :bawling:

thanks.

Re: Re: Re: HELP - can't read digital heater controls
 

Read the posts, my friend - it's all here...all you have to do is get busy. Or you can give Nissan $700.
Happy fixing and good luck-the fix does work - mine has been fine for almost a year.

Martin

dude...yeah i fixed it...it was simple!
actually i found 1 bad resister soldering and 2 other bad solders...got em all fixed and its working like new!

Quite the feeling of accomplishment, isn't it? Not to mention that you saved a ton of money. That's OK, you don't need to send me any...just return the favor to someone else.

Martin, 90 SE 5sp

resoldering?
 

Hey, I was having the same problem with my CC and my clock and I am going to attempt to repair both this weekend - just one question... how exactly do I resolder? (I know, dumb question but I've never done it) I've done a search on the forum, and on Google, but I have yet to find any site with detailed pics... if anyone out there knows a link with pics on how to resolder could you please post it. :)

thanks in advance,
:newbie:

bring it down to Windsor, i'll give you a hand.

Hey, thanks for the offer, but I don't really have time... thanks anyways. Anyone got a link? or pics?

What you need is a soldering iron with a very tiny tip. Buy one, if necessary, they are not that much-maybe $30 or $40. When you find the component that is the cause of the problem, use the soldering iron to remelt the solder on the connections of the component. You need to be really careful not to overheat the device- apply heat just long enough to melt the solder and no more. Also be careful not to melt the solder to another connection, that's why a really small tip is needed.

Good luck. You will probably need a lot of patience and some luck to find the bad spot. Refer to earlier posts for directions.

Ok, for all of us who are afraid of screwing it up. These guys specialize in digital dash repairs. www.mrwhizard.com (888-803-8523). Haven't sent my yet, but I will when it gets cold. Unproven, has anyone used their service?

This fix is extremely easy to do, all that you need is someone with a little soldering experience. Took me about an hour to do that's including taking the dash apart.

yeah, quite easy after it was all said and done... I just did mine, wan't the capacitors, transistors, etc. but it was that white data cable linking the two boards together - just solder 'em up and the problem is solved. :)

As for how to solder (I know, I am answering my own question) I just picked up a 30w soldering iron from radio shack and the instructions were on the back. :slap:

Okay back again... Resoldered the bad joints the first time... and it worked for about 2 days until it started diming again... then I brought it to my mechanic (who also does electronic repair) and he resoldered all of the 12-15 wires on that stupid data cable that joins the two boards together - infact he replaced it with a new one - and now it just went dim again! Is this thing a lost cause or should I keep trying?

Keep on trying, a new unit is 1200 bucks, my problem was on the main board not on the data link

Thanks, for the encouragement :) , is it a possibility that one of those micro chips could have gone bad? My mechanic said it's rare but he did not want to rule that out as a possibility.