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Is the oil light switch the only place to install a mechanical gauge
After 19yrs of ownership (29,000) and 225,000 miles, I'm starting to hear valve tapping at random times. It happens in the morning when the engine is cold. It happens various times through out the day when driving. There's no rhyme or reason to when it start tapping.
Basic background info. Oil level is good, oil change regularly with full synthetic since ownership, oil "dummy" light does not come on with the engine running, last oil change about 2700 miles ago with 1400 of that being a trip to a from NYC.
Plan is to install a mechanic gauge and see what's happening. So my question, the thread pitch where the oil light switch screws in, is it a standard size thread to where I can install the mechanical gauge without a need for some special adapter?
The factory threading on the oil filter assembly is (weirdly) 1/8 BSP female. To do it totally correctly, you want a 1/8 BSP male to 1/8 NPT female adapter fitting. Then screw your aftermarket oil pressure gauge into the 1/8 NPT.
Many people over the years just screw the 1/8 NPT straight into the BSP threading on the oil filter bracket. It's "close enough", so many people just screw the 1/8 NPT right in and don't even ever knowing it's incorrect, but I prefer to do mine the proper way and got the correct 1/8 BSP to 1/8 NPT adapter fitting. I can't find the part number for you offhand, but my adapter fitting was $8.52
You can use a T fitting so that you maintain the factory switch/indicator and add a pressure sensor. I've got a Nismo one that they used to sell at Courtesy, can't seem to find it now though. That project was replaced, but I've still got the adapter installed, serving no purpose at all.
Luckily I still have the baggie. Part number is 25073-RN010
When I Google the fitting, I came across this fitting by AutoMeter, part # 2269
Then I searched #2269 on Autozone and got the above. I figured AZ would be a easier option for some if trying to get the fitting.
For the record, I have not purchase the fitting yet.
I don't doubt that you found that number through a Google search, but it certainly looks like straight thread from the picture.
But, you (or anybody reading this) definitely should not try to thread in non-tapered threads into our taper threaded female fitting on the oil filter bracket. It looks like Autometer actually has the incorrect description on this, they need to make it clear this 2269 adapter does not have tapered threads. I think Autometer should actually be calling this a BSPP adapter and NOT a BSPT adapter.
Besides, as you also posted, the confirmed correct O'Reilly or McMaster fittings are considerably cheaper anyway
I gotta give credit to where credit is due. I just came back from a local hyd supply store we use at work. After telling them what I'm trying to do and showing them the AutoMeter pic, that's the first question he asked. "Am I sure I need a BSP or BSPT" They didn't have either in stock.
I have one of those sandwich plates, I'm in the process of moving so it's somewhere not readily available.
So yesterday I went to O'Reilly to order the fitting. On there computer it said the fitting was at the warehouse, this morning they called and said it was not at the warehouse and it's no where to be found. So I stopped at AZ and try ordering it there. We'll see if AZ tells me the same thing tomorrow
AZ did not have part #265220 (Edelmann) or #4860K141 (McMaster) in their system. They only had #2269 (AutoMeter) in their system so that's the one I ordered. Lets see what happens
Hmm well I hate to beat a dead horse, but if it's indeed straight thread like it certainly appears to be in the pic I definitely wouldn't try to thread it into your car.
I hope I'm wrong though and the Autometer works out for you
So I finally installed my mechanical oil pressure gauge, with AutoMeter 2269 from Autozone.
My conclusion, AM 2269 is definitely not a straight fitting. It's a BSPT. My oil pressure is good. I have about 15psi at idle (hard to determine since numbers on gauge starts at 20psi) and about 80psi at 4000 rpm. These readings were taken in the driveway with a hot engine.
I'll see what I'm getting on a cold engine, while driving, at a stop light, etc.
Here's something interesting. I left the factory oil light switch unplugged and was expecting the oil light to stay on (no ground) and the light didn't come on with the engine running. At this point, I don't remember if the bulb check came on with the ignition on (engine not running) but I'll pay attention in the days to come.
FYI - the factory oil pressure switch is a normally closed switch. After taking it to run some errands, oil pressure is definitely good. With the oil pressure switch harness disconnected, the light doesn't come on at all. Ignition on/eng off or with engine running. So that tells me the oil pressure switch is a NC switch. I'll see what pressure I'm getting tomorrow morning on a cold start up.
I noticed that too a couple years back about the oil light not lighting up with the sender unplugged. My original harness literally crumbled in my hand when I unplugged it from the sender so I had to drive that way for a few weeks until I got a replacement to solder on. I was expecting/dreading the constant oil light on the dash but to my surprise it never came on.
Oil pressure was 70psi this morning with a cold start up at about 1500 rpm.
James, that's my next dilemma. Just like you, my harness connector broke apart when I squeezed the tab to release the connector. After so many cold/hot cycles, I guess that's to be expected.
Where did you get the replacement harness/connector? I'm guessing Nissan used the same oil pressure switch harness/connector from day one to present. So I'm hoping the latest Nissan in the salvage yard will have the same harness/connector and our 3rd gens.
Oil pressure was 70psi this morning with a cold start up at about 1500 rpm.
James, that's my next dilemma. Just like you, my harness connector broke apart when I squeezed the tab to release the connector. After so many cold/hot cycles, I guess that's to be expected.
Where did you get the replacement harness/connector? I'm guessing Nissan used the same oil pressure switch harness/connector from day one to present. So I'm hoping the latest Nissan in the salvage yard will have the same harness/connector and our 3rd gens.
I got it at the junkyard, but all of the ones there were ALMOST as bad. I assume a couple of more plug-in/plug-out cycles and my replacement will crumble apart too. I just pulled it off a 3rd gen at the junkyard, so I didn't check to see what other Nissans had the same connector
Now that oil pressure is confirmed, back to my original issue. Valve tapping noise.
My next step is to try a over the counter oil additives (I already bought a Lucas product) add it to the oil and see what happens. Next will be higher viscosity oil at next oil change interval. I've always used Mobil full synthetic 10w30, maybe I will try 20w50 or a "high mileage" oil from Mobil.
I don't remember, are the lifters serviceable in a VE without dissembling the entire head?
07-14-2015, 05:41 PM
