angus1x

Been dealing with this problem for the last 10-12 years after replacing my 1994/5 Max SE VG30DE SOHC V6 with same bought directly from Japan.
Was able to find one with only 13,000 miles.My old engine had over 200,000 miles and the timing chain had been sounding like a diesel running for around 100,000 miles before replacing the tensioners with no change it the sound.
Every thing plugged right up and engine started and seemed to be alright until driving it up to cruising speed and when driving at steady speed it began to fail like turning off the key all the way down to just barely running.If I give it gas it comes right back and runs fine,but if I hold steady throttle is just almost quits.Runs great if driving like race car,giving gas and letting off.
I've spent thousands of $ with Nissan repair ,local mechanics ,and had it in the local high-school vocational mechanics class for the last 5 years thinking they would have the latest diagnostic equipment and could fix it.WONG.
There are at least 6-7 different mechanics that said they hadn't ever seen one they couldn't fix eating crow now.
Nissan said they couldn't do anymore till I bought new PCM but after trying 3-4 different ones with same problem they said they couldn't repair it and not to bring it back.All the local guys want to do is replace parts and sensors till they find the problem but never could,and each one you take it to wants to start over with there (new parts).
I have the car back in my garage now but still the same problem 10 years and several thousand dollars later.
SO I keep reading Nissan forums and watching the 10 year old (NEW) tires dry-rot on my car.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

If you have a 94 the SE was a VE engine from 92-94 not the VG. The clacking noise you were probably hearing in your old engine was probably the VCT's (variable timing control) Hopefully someone with a VE like James could chime in and help you a little further in trouble shooting your issue. It could be a number of things but from what your describing sounds maybe that it's fuel related. It might also help someone who is more VE knowledgeable that could possibly help you if you could list what other shops have done ie which sensors have they changed?

gp540

iTrader: (1)

Yes there are two vtc one for front and rear you could carefully peel back that shielding on the motor side and I believe it's the green and yellow wire...(not 100% can recheck) splice into that and ground it on your coolant inlet 10mm bolt it should dampen the noise and drop about 10 ponys off the low end and you will notice a rougher idle at stop.

gp540

iTrader: (1)

You can see my ground wire in this photo

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

The O.P swapped the motor so i don't think he has the vtc issue but is having a stalling issue at cruising speed.

angus1x

thanks guys for chimming in,
AC you were right it is VE30DE.
What I'm doing this week sense getting it back after several years=1st had to get mouse nest out of air clearner,2nt had two plugs not firing so had to replace plugs, coils,and injectors on those two.
That smothed the running out quite abit but still bucking when driving.
3rd pulled out the fule pump and plan to replace,the fule looks like dirty diesel and about as thick.Have the fule tank out now having it steam-cleaned.Plan to seal with epoxy before reinstalling.
Looking for new pump while working on tank.The parts house guys say they don't list a pump for DOHC engine for 1994 MAX.My engine was very late 1994 and think it's probable 1995 engine in the 94 body.Maby someone here can tell by the vin# and code.It's vin=JN1EJO1F9RT502008 the other # I have is =VE30DE 2960.
Any suggestions on pump?

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like you need a good tune up which you've already started by the sounds of it ie. air filter, fuel filter, plugs and wires etc. If it's still bucking you may even want to try replacing the o2 sensor as that can cause some bucking issues aswell. 95 was not a ve engine. Im sure if you do enough searching you'll find the fuel pump. You could try courtesy nissan online or even check the classifieds here on the org. and even put a WTB ad in the classifieds but im sure the fuel pump your looking for won't be an impossible one to find and should be an aftermarket item too.

angus1x

Got tank cleaned and back in,started right up.

angus1x

Installed the high volume fulepump.seems to run real smooth,but still bucking when driving.plan to change gas filter next,auctually waited after installing new pump and cleaning tank to let all the old gas get through the system.

oldpuck81

Also try cleaning the MAF (mass air flow sensor) w/ some MAF cleaner spray.

angus1x

THX oldpuck81,
I replaced the MAF sensor several years ago and engine straightened out for a couple days then right back to bucking.The sensor I bought had lifetime warranty so I replaced it and engine straightened out for about 1/2 as long as the 1st.I then found one on ebay off an original 95 engine that a guy was parting out and it ran the same with it so I figure going to have to dig a little deeper.
That was closest I ever came to getting rid of the bucking.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

When is the last time you changed the o2 sensor? That could also be a cause for the bucking you experienced.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

lol, welcome to VE ownership. I feel your pain. From personal experience, unfortunately at this point you are almost certainly never going solve this problem.

First thing I suggest is that you rule your knock sensor out immediately. Bad knock sensors on the VE wreak havoc and cause all sorts of driveability issues. Since they are so inaccessible (down in the engine valley under intake manifold and water pipe and whatnot), an easy way to rule out the knock sensor is with a resistor.

You bypass the knock sensor with a 470k ohm resistor to fool your ECU into thinking the knock sensor is working 100% properly. Radio Shack used to carry the resistors in-store but I believe they are all closed down now so unfortunately you may have to order one online. It must be a 470k ohm resistor, not a 4.7k ohm or a 470 ohm - only a "470k ohm" resistor. Obviously once you do this your actual knock sensor won't be plugged in and the ECU will never know if your engine is knocking - so make sure you do not have advanced timing and preferably run 93 octane while it's bypassed.

Unplug the knock sensor harness and stick the resistor directly into the harness on the body side of the connector like this:



Anyway, if after doing that your car now runs perfectly fine then great! You have found your issue - your knock sensor. Replace it and the sub-harness with new OEM Nissan parts. Nissan keeps jacking the prices up on them so they're probably well over $200 for both parts. You can even keep the resistor in there permanently if you want, just be very careful about detonation - i.e., make sure your ignition timing is in spec, preferrably run 93 octane, don't pull trailers up a mountain in the middle of summer, etc.

If it did not fix your issue then at least you 100% confirmed and ruled out a very vital part of the VE livelihood and common issue. Plus, it's only a couple of bucks for the part and can be done in only a few minutes.

Beyond that - bucking on a VE is almost always related to one of these:

Coil packs (culprit probaby 80% of the time even when you are certain they're good, you probably have a bad one)
MAF (if you are genuinely running a 4th gen MAF - from a 1995 Maxima - then that is the wrong MAF. Get a 3rd gen Maxima MAF. VG and VE are the same, you just need a confirmed good used one from a 3rd generation Maxima)
CPS (hopefully you swapped your USDM one onto the JDM as I believe they are different)
PTU (power transistor unit - this the part at about 11 o'clock on the picture above, directly to the right of the CPS)
CTS (coolant temp sensor)

About the CTS, if you put a JDM engine into your VE you needed to remove the CTS from the JDM and swap your USDM one into it. For whatever reason, the JDM CTS makes the VE run wonky when transplanted over here.

ALSO - check the actual connector that plugs onto the CTS. I once spent MONTHS chasing bucking/stalling on one of my VE's and it literally turned out to just be corrosion on the CTS connector. The connector had developed green corrosion and it was making my VE flip the **** out. If you have any corrosion on the connector or the CTS itself, use some white vinegar to clean it all off as much as you can.

The CTS controls fuel trims, timing, all sorts of stuff on the VE and just a little corrosion will wreak utter havoc on your car and make you chase your tail trying to figure out the issue.

Also, it's very likely that a combination of all of the above are causing your issues. That's what makes it so frustrating and time consuming and expensive, unfortunately.

Owning a VE is like owning some sort of $200,000 exotic car. All the finicky temperament and frustration but without the esteem and resale value.

Even worse - there is literally nobody who we can take these cars to to fix them with 100% certainty when crap like this pops up. The guy with the Ferrari can at least take it to Ferrari to be fixed. The VE just becomes a never ending chase down the rabbit hole and there are no resources out there, no experts, nothing. Shops and mechanics and even Nissan dealerships themselves literally stand no chance, so don't even bother. Just a complete waste of money as they will absolutely not figure it out.

angus1x

Thanks James,
Ordered some 470k ohm resistors,ready to try about anything suggested at this point.
Like I stated before I haven't checked anything in at least 5 to 8 years when I was trying to find the problem myself.When I was fooling with it I ohmed or replaced every sensor I could find in the Haynes repair manual,but to no avail.Need to go back and recheck everything againGreat to have people like you suggesting things to try without just replacing parts.

angus1x

James,
Finally got the max back into shop, bypassed the knock sensor with a 470k ohm resistor.still doing same thing.when ideling seems to run fine and smooth for few minutes then falls about 300 rpms then comes back runs fine ,keeps repeating this pattern as long as I let it run.Once and awhile it will just shut off and die at one of those intervals,but not often,seems not pattern for when it will die.
Not sure how to check the coils when it's fouling,but doesn't seem to miss even when doing the foul thins .Usually just last a few seconds when it fouls,then back to running smooth.
Wish you lived closer to Ky and I would ask you to see if you could straighten it out.

maximagician

you could try turning up the idle screw a bit its on top of the iacv,(keep track of turns)
make sure your grunds are clean and connected
(1 off neg batt terminal to the frame and it jumps to the engine block)
(also two eyelets with 10 mm blots to the metal intake manifold for injector harness)
(and 1 to back of the alternator)
there may be 2 fuel pump relaysone might be by trunk lower latch/catch(try swapping with same relay from less needed system like windows or etc to test,ive got a few spares of each color from vg and ve mixed in but likely the same kinds per color/shape)
the "rat nest"may be the moisture catch pad on the bottom of air box
with the usual pine needle collection-i take mine out-happy trails

maximagician

Im also working on an long lost ancient theory of mine which studys
the 92-94 se,(dohc)VE-automatic cars intake manifold being different
from those 92-94 se(dohc)VE-5 speed cars wheren i think the 5-speed
has a power valve built in and them VE(dohc) a/t dont
but do note all 89-94 with a VG !(sohc) intake manifolds are the same(both have power valves)

angus1x

Still checking things you all have suggested.Notice it runs great ideling for few minutes then fades back 2-3 hundred RPS and idels rough for few sec.,then smooths back out for a min. or two then repeats the same thing with the fading out.Seems once and awhile durring the fade-out peroid the engine dies,but will start right back up with same same pattern of good then rough.
Will keep cleaning conections and checking your suggestions.
Steve

maximagician

did you try all the stuff james 92se posted?
mainly the few sensors he knows need to be swapped to the us versions,
the fsm has alot of qwik tests like old mechanics tricks,
(NOTE-if a sensors unplugged the ecu wont let rev above 1500 rpm until plugged back in)
id really rather qoute it exactly for you or maybe you can look it up/buy a digi copy
example- if you run with the MAF unplugged and it runs correctly or better it may be the MAF(its unplugged and the ecu will use a pre set value)same test for O2 sensor,egr,fuel pressure regulator a few more
pinching the pcv hose to check leakage etc.
Cleaning the IACV(idle control valve and mini butterfly)is a popular diagnosis on the .org
WHEN YOU/THEY FILLED THE COOLANT WAS THE AIR BLEED OPEN?ITS ON THE INTAKE
10 mm bolt with a yellow warning sticker that may have fallen off

angus1x

Started the Max up this afternoon.Ran like sewing machine idling for about 20 min.No noise,no vibration,hard to even tell it was running.First time I rived it a little the timing chain started the old diesel-knocking sound and the 5 sec. fading 30 sec. clear running.Let it run another 20 min and it never got warm enough for the fans to come on,but continued the diesel-knocking sound and the 5 sec. fading 30 sec. clear cycle.
Finally turned it off as bewildered as ever for the last 19-12 years.
Anyone want a great looking well maintained Max with only 13,000 miles on great engine?Would make someone very grate project.
I wish I new enough to buy a racing pcm that would only control fuel and fire like the old Chevy and fords and maby I could get some use out of the thing.

maximagician

welp IF IF IF you can find a VE dohc version anymore,at a local discount you pull type junkyard and take the crank sensor(on right side end of front valve cover/maybe try adjusting yours first to see if timing change helps),grab the o2 sensor(splice it in your car if the harness is missing)grab the maf,coolant temp sensor AND the other coolant sensor,take the coil control next to the crank sensor iirc,the green and brown vac controlled solonoids on the same bracket,the evap canister purge system,the green and grey and black relays and the big mega fuses all in the engine bay boxes and the pos.batt red fuseable link
I THINK thats all the possible culprits and you could always return them for store credit which doesnt expire as long as you dont lose the reciept(round here anyway)
basicly swap all sensors(theres less AND they are super easy to swap espc. compared to new cars with motors "shoehorned in tight spots"
total cost @ 125 and returnable(usually just a credit slip tho)
i did that for a 90's buick once but it was like 75 worth of easy to swap sensors
i not sure exactly which fixed it but who cares for 75 and a few hours of spare time
(old tymers)="hes a part swapper","tony aint no merchcanik",lol,i wouldnt pay 90 an hour for a part swap guesser either and well...i havent payed any car labor since i was wittle
Prob should re connect your knock sensor with any new parts,then try the bypass after seeing if all new sensors helps
REMEMBER THE USED SENSORS MAY NOT BE GOOD OR WORKING EITHER, there are test for all systems in fsm,OR OR OR at least post some pictures already!
AND if theres been any fender swaps or accident fixes wiring could be chafed pinched and or severed
sometimes fenders and bumper covers get swapped with no thought of wire damage from collisions
and the brake booster hose are usually loose and stiff on my nissans when i start fixin
also im betting shops probaly HAVE mixed up vg sohc and ve dohc parts befo
HAS anyone looked at the fuel pump wiring and the pump sock and in the tank? it is super easy on these type of cars where you just remove the bottom of the back seat and the plate and wires are right there
and theres a relay in the trunk for fuel cut off iirc(its for accidents?it will cut fuel if airbags go off?)

angus1x

Thx Max,
Unfortunately there aren't any junkyards left around here anymore.When scrap prices got high a few years ago they all shredded everything they could drag to the metal eating hog.
Now it's buy cheap replacement parts from China or expensive factory parts.
Think any members would be parting out something I could use?Not to familiar with everything on this forum,or how to communicate with other members that could help me out with parts.
Thanks again,Steve

angus1x

Maximagician,would you mind looking at this temp sensor and make sure it's what I need,have so many wrong parts now I can't keep them straight.
= http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coolant-Temp...4AAOSwNSxVIWvy
I really appreciate your help.Steve

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

That looks right - although your eBay link seems to be a British seller. Do you mean to be looking at British items?

OEM ones are cheap. Just buy an OEM Nissan one. I have had lots of trouble over the years with aftermarket units. You can get OEM ones for $20:

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...630-51e10.html

angus1x

Thx James,ordered this one=[/B] http://www.ebay.com/itm/192086222308?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITWas almost $26 but figure it would be a cheap fix if it works.

angus1x

Not sure how I did that,meant to give you the URL= http://www.ebay.com/itm/192086222308?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

angus1x

Humm,click on it and goes to the URL

angus1x

Just looking in the box of things I've replaced sense it started running like it is,Have two coolant temp sensors,a nissan 0427 and nissan 3x22 besides the one in the engine now.Not sure what it is till i drain some antifreeze and get it out to replace with the new one.

maximagician

I couldnt say for sure by a picture,in fact i once threw a maxima temp sender
into a 97 or 98 altima because its temp sender had a bad connector
it fit and worked but read wrong temp which started a whole dumb thing

my last comment when i said pics already!,i meant since your comment sounded like you were ready to sell it off we would like to see it,lol
and i mentioned leaky brake booster hose which is 1 of the biggest vac hoses
and they are always kinda loose when i get used cars
but the hard/stiffness is normal so they dont collapse/suck shut

angus1x

James Or Max,finally was able to read the engine ID#=VE30 019752A
Can anyone decode that to see what year the engine is?

angus1x

Here is vin on the car =JN1EJ01F9RT502008. So I know the 10th # is R so It's a 94 year model.

angus1x

The Haynes repair manual I have is for Nissan Maxima 1993 thru 1999.I states on first page it states it covers models 93-94 with SOHC VG30DE V6,while later models all have a DOHC VE 30DE V6. A limited number of 93 and 94 models were equipped with a DOHC VE 30DE V6 that is not covered by this manual.So I'm just shooting in the dark trying to use Haynes as my sole reference for repair.

maximagician

I cant help with vin codes but that haynes manual printed yearspan isnt what i normally see for third gen parts,maybe an example of the confusion some shops had when first seeing a 1989-1994 maxima whether its the 89-94 gxe,89-91 se or the 92-94 se those are the 3 yearspans and categories im used to seeing for the last 15 or so years owning and tooling on a few of these cars(a 92gxe,a 91se,a 92se and i even let a 93se-5mt slip thru my hands)i sold my last maxima left last year but do hope to find another for a spare car someday,hopefully a different style than the 4 i couldnt keep around(ive always worked part time or had gaps of unemployment due to food service jobs closing down or me quitting just before or relocating as seattle rents increased,actually ive been living in vans for the last 2 and 1/2 years-not usually something i brag about,me and my mom(she has and can get again low income senior apt.)we are moving out of seattle to a new state hopefully in the end at feb.2017,id like to live somewhere cheaper,less crowded,less in demand and warm/sunny with less hills and bike more than drive but ideally i could save for a toy maxima in a driveway to obsess over,lol.im sure i can get back into a room rental somewhere else and get out of the shady small restaurant industry where they keep you under benefit qualifying total hours,i already quit drinking since around thanksgiving besides 1 six pack of craft beer around last christmas

angus1x

March has slpped up on me and my max still sitting in back of shop with the hood up,havn't had time to do anything to it sense my last post a month ago.Been working on several other projects trying to get some stuff off the back burnner and out of the way.
Now D-*** me has taken on yet another project=build log cabin for mother-in law beside my greenhouse.Seems she is getting afraid to live alone. (she's 88).

Been adj. 2 new calves a day,got 20 on the ground so far with about 95 more to go including about 15 1st calf heifers.Only about 3 weeks till time to plant my sweetcorn for spring roadside sales.
Back to the Max,bought an i-pod yestrday and soon as I learn to use it I plan to get some pictures of the Max posted here.Hoping to get time to try afew more things that you all have suggested.
Just checking in,Steve

angus1x

Got some photoes,still learning to use the ipad.

angus1x

Wow,sure are large pictures

angus1x

Next step I'll try video, see if I can capture the fallout while idling.
Steve

Tiniform

Good looking max. Hope you will get it running correctly.

angus1x

Had high hopes,found the TPS had dead spot about 1/2 throttle.Repaced it but no such luck,same old falling out after just a few min.
Angus

angus1x

Looking on ebay at ECM my # is A18-B50-EC7 and then 8y04.
found one that says for 94 max se but # is A18-B50-EC8K.
Anyone know what the diff.would be and if it's what I need?
Thx,Steve