Hectic

iTrader: (20)

You're thinking of the door lock timer. They added it to attempt to fix the minor annoyance of the locks sometimes popping back up after locking. Ironically, that module is the cause of most door lock problems nowadays.

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

You should really only be focusing on why the lights which remain on, are grounded when they shouldn't be. That is the main problem, causing your battery to drain. Unscrew and unplug all of your door switches at the same time. If the dome, courtesy lights, ignition light and key light turn off without door switches installed, then at least one of the switches is faulty. If the lights remain on, then you're going to have to put in some work to track down the fault. Jumper connector 9 (M66) may be the culprit if you're lucky. All ground wires for all lights you are having issues join there, as well as one from the time control unit. If the door switches are not the problem, then you're going to have some work cut out for you trying to track down the fault.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The dome light fades out, but I think there are a few situations where it goes out immediately.

The glove box light is part of the dash lights, so it only comes on when the headlights are on.

The trunk light has power to the brown/white stripe wire all the time. The switch connects the pink wire to ground anytime the trunk is opened.

claidig

Want to say thank you to you guys..all your posts have been (will be) a big help.

Hectic, I have unplugged all the door switches and the dome light remains on (well unless it's manually turned off).

Also..the lights on the inside of the doors remain on ALL THE TIME as well..I have no way at all to shut these off except removing the bulbs.

Dennis,
I am not getting any power to the trunk lamp socket but I do not see any brown / white wires anywhere, do you know where those are? I had already done an OHM (continuity) test on the pink wire and ground and believe that checked out fine and changed when trunk was open or closed.

I still really feel like this is the same or very close to same problem the next generation of these cars have that arises from a faulty SECU and the car is staying in limbo mode where it's wanting to ARM the alarm and shut down the lights but is waiting for something to happen which isn't happening (like the door being closed or locked). I just hope it's not a few separate issues that are not related to each other and causing me to think this.

I have started on the wiring troubleshooting section listed in the FSM and have many tests to do still, once done I will post my findings. I am going through the Timer Control Unit section and the Anti Theft section as time allows.

Thanks for your time guys...I know many people would probably give up on this and just unplug all the lights to stop the drain and not worry about the alarm or having a trunk light..but I am cursed and have this stubborn "I will somehow figure it out" mentality..lol Until it gets costly...then my mindset will be different I bet...lol

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

I hate to say it, but you've got a problem on your hands that might be difficult to track down. You've ruled out the door switches. So your next step is to rule out the dome light, door handle light, and ignition switch light as the source of the ground fault. Use one courtesy light as an indicator, and unscrew/disconnect the door switch on whatever door may be open during testing so that the open/closed state doesn't matter. I'd start with the dome light, remove it and see if the courtesy light turns off. Repeat this test with the door handle light, and ignition light. Independently of course. If there is no change with each test, reconnect the lamp. The idea is that ground is leaking back into the circuit through one of these points. May seem tedious, but these are the easiest steps to take next without much disassembly.

claidig

Thanks for the tips Hectic.
Just getting the wife out the door for her work trip so should have more time this week to plug away (pun kind of intended..lol) on this.

I am wondering though..

The drivers door key cylinder is very loose and it has a sensor on it...I am thinking this may be part of the problem here since that's been the only thing I can fiddle with to get the security light to stop flashing.
Do you think there would be anyway to unplug the harness to this switch and use a jumper wire to jump / hard wire whichever pins are needed to make this work in order to test / rule this switch out?

Same goes for say the trunk switch and maybe other switches I find along the way.

I am "thinking" I should be able to do this...but it goes back to me not knowing a lot about how the power or ground is supplied to these switches...all stuff I am trying to learn.

If I knew how to properly do this I could go to each switch I find one at a time..unplug the harness and add either power or ground as needed...leave them hardwired like that as I go along until I find the problem(s).

As always..thank you for you time.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The trunk light wire color is from the 1994 wiring diagram. Obviously there are differences between your car and a 1994. So if I assume that your car's trunk light is wired the same as the 1994, but with wire colors, you should have 12 volts on one of the wires on the light bulb socket. This 12 volts comes direct from one of the fuses in the dashboard fuse box. It does not go through the timer module.

Maybe it might be worth it to you to get that service manual I located for your car.

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

It is possible that the door handle switch is the source of the constant GND. But the key cylinder has a different switch, not related to illumination. It is having an effect of the security indicator because it is part of the security system. Honestly the illumination switch is supposed to work independently of the other lights. They do all lead to J/C 9 which I mentioned. You may have a shorted diode there. To gain enough access to that connector you would have to pull your dash out. Even if it was OK, once you're there, you could disassemble it and track down which specific wire is grounded.

But first do all those tests I mentioned. The door handle illumination is the smallest connector. Better yet, just disconnect all handle connectors while you're at it to rule the entire thing out.