For those who have gone deep into the VE valve timing
#1
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For those who have gone deep into the VE valve timing
My car has less than 115K and do have the dreaded VTC ticking. Hopefully in the near future I'll be removing the heads for various reasons. To help reduce the downtime I will be ordering a few needed parts before the actual dissasembly. How long do the timing chain, guides and tensioners last before replacement, or is it basically a inspect and replace if needed item? Besides reducing the downtime, the cost factor also important.
So for those who have removed/checked the chain, guides and tensioners did those items looked to be in good shape. I realize all vehicles will vary.
So for those who have removed/checked the chain, guides and tensioners did those items looked to be in good shape. I realize all vehicles will vary.
#2
I always
thought you didnt have to replace the timing chain, only timing belts in the vg's?, does it have the same effects as a timing belt if it breaks?
also my SE started ticking but i think its the exhaust studs.( I hope )
also my SE started ticking but i think its the exhaust studs.( I hope )
#3
I'm probably one of the few guys that have had the head off a VE. IMHO, my chain and tensioner assembly looked okay. ie..the tensioner block had plenty of meat on it. It's really hard to check the chain to see if it's stretched too much or worn but from what I could see, it was okay.(honestly I don't know either way) But if the tensioner was okay, I just assumed the chain was okay. Guides? You mean that long slide deal that the chain rides on? It looked okay to me.
If you are getting headwork, you are probably going to get the following done anyway but...
1) Replace the valve guide seals! They do leak over time(get brittle etc.)
2) Clean the oil gallies leading/feeding the vtc assemblies. This is the reason they fail in the 1st place and why repaired/replaced ones fail again.
3)Be very,very careful about who you go to, to the port/polishing. I'm not too sure(even w/ a flowbench) you could get these heads to flow any better w/o destroying the low end(that already sucks on the ve) Plus w/o cams(that I've never seen avail), porting might not do anything anyway.
If you are getting headwork, you are probably going to get the following done anyway but...
1) Replace the valve guide seals! They do leak over time(get brittle etc.)
2) Clean the oil gallies leading/feeding the vtc assemblies. This is the reason they fail in the 1st place and why repaired/replaced ones fail again.
3)Be very,very careful about who you go to, to the port/polishing. I'm not too sure(even w/ a flowbench) you could get these heads to flow any better w/o destroying the low end(that already sucks on the ve) Plus w/o cams(that I've never seen avail), porting might not do anything anyway.
#4
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Thanks
Originally posted by Jeff92se
1) Replace the valve guide seals! They do leak over time(get brittle etc.)
2) Clean the oil gallies leading/feeding the vtc assemblies. This is the reason they fail in the 1st place and why repaired/replaced ones fail again.
3)Be very,very careful about who you go to, to the port/polishing. I'm not too sure(even w/ a flowbench) you could get these heads to flow any better w/o destroying the low end(that already sucks on the ve) Plus w/o cams(that I've never seen avail), porting might not do anything anyway.
1) Replace the valve guide seals! They do leak over time(get brittle etc.)
2) Clean the oil gallies leading/feeding the vtc assemblies. This is the reason they fail in the 1st place and why repaired/replaced ones fail again.
3)Be very,very careful about who you go to, to the port/polishing. I'm not too sure(even w/ a flowbench) you could get these heads to flow any better w/o destroying the low end(that already sucks on the ve) Plus w/o cams(that I've never seen avail), porting might not do anything anyway.
2)The oil galleries will DEFINATELY be CLEANED, following all the work as per the TSB for replacement of the VTC
3)From my other thread I posted about porting, I'll probably do all the porting buisness in the ports between the TB-->plenum, plenum-->intake manifold and leave the heads alone. I know the hp in the heads, but as the saying goes "You gotta pay to play" Besides if the butt dyno or chassis dyno doesn't show any gains I'll just slap on the OEM stuff and be happy
#5
You know, I would recommend you investigate the price to replace the tensioner and the chains for your car. At least I know for my car (VG30DETT) that you generally replace the tensioner with a T-belt change. I would look to see if the tensioner is any different(oil filled(not connected to the main oil supply, more like a gas charged hood shock) cylinder pushing against the chain. In my max, I replaced the VTC's with brand new units and still had a tick. The Nissan techs diagnosed it as either a stretched chain or a bad tensioner. Considering that they replace the tensioner on the Z every 60K miles, I wouldn't be surprised if a maxima was having tensioner probs after 100K+ miles.
#6
Re: Thanks
Hey Mike let us know if you find alot of crud in the oil gallies.
Quote:
The Nissan techs diagnosed it as either a stretched chain or a bad tensioner. Considering that they replace the tensioner on the Z every 60K miles, I wouldn't be surprised if a maxima was having tensioner probs after 100K+ miles.
End Quote
I have some upper head noise that I think has to do with the chain as well (Its definitley not the tick described by many ve owners). I looked at the manuel and It doesnt look like a fun job getting at all the guides and chains
Quote:
The Nissan techs diagnosed it as either a stretched chain or a bad tensioner. Considering that they replace the tensioner on the Z every 60K miles, I wouldn't be surprised if a maxima was having tensioner probs after 100K+ miles.
End Quote
I have some upper head noise that I think has to do with the chain as well (Its definitley not the tick described by many ve owners). I looked at the manuel and It doesnt look like a fun job getting at all the guides and chains
#7
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Originally posted by Czar You know, I would recommend you investigate the price to replace the tensioner and the chains for your car. At least I know for my car (VG30DETT) that you generally replace the tensioner with a T-belt change. I would look to see if the tensioner is any different(oil filled(not connected to the main oil supply, more like a gas charged hood shock) cylinder pushing against the chain. In my max, I replaced the VTC's with brand new units and still had a tick. The Nissan techs diagnosed it as either a stretched chain or a bad tensioner. Considering that they replace the tensioner on the Z every 60K miles, I wouldn't be surprised if a maxima was having tensioner probs after 100K+ miles.
With the VE, the chain tensioners are oil feed. Currently I'm at 1,500 for the parts I want to replace, and this doesn't include chains, guides, tentioners or the labor rate for the head shop.
Eric
I think crud in the oil galleries depend on the maintenance of each car. Of course I'll post a write up during and after completion. I'm estimating maybe 1.5 months before work might begin, I have to wait for wifey to visit her mother so I can use her car to get to work. I'm just doing my hw in preperation.
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