Just got a set of Konis! Springs?
#1
Just got a set of Konis! Springs?
Hi everyone, long time lurker here. I'm so thankful for the invaluable information on this forum. I learned to work on cars using this site, starting with a PS pressure hose in 2015. And most importantly I've been able to keep a VE with only 98k miles on the road. My parents bought it new in '92, and probably would have abandoned it by now through all its issues, even though it's mostly in good shape. I just compression tested all cylinders, 175-180 PSI.
Anyway, I just received a set of unused Konis off ebay for $200. I've examined them, and they seem good. Does anyone have any idea how they would work with the stock SE springs? The only lowering springs I think I could still get are the B&G, and I'm not sure those are worth it. I know Eibach was always preferred but they seem unobtanium. Does lowering an SE really improve handling, or is it mostly for looks? Also my front end has sagged about 1", so I already have a cool rake . I couldn't really find spring rate numbers for stock vs everything else.
Lastly when I stupidly put in Monroes a couple years ago (closeout sale but I learned my lesson), I threw away the OEM front struts... which I'm pretty sure I now need to put the Konis in . Would hollowing out the (cheap, already rusting) Monroe struts work? If not I guess I need to get some OEMs from a junkyard. Would some from a GXE work?
Anyway, I just received a set of unused Konis off ebay for $200. I've examined them, and they seem good. Does anyone have any idea how they would work with the stock SE springs? The only lowering springs I think I could still get are the B&G, and I'm not sure those are worth it. I know Eibach was always preferred but they seem unobtanium. Does lowering an SE really improve handling, or is it mostly for looks? Also my front end has sagged about 1", so I already have a cool rake . I couldn't really find spring rate numbers for stock vs everything else.
Lastly when I stupidly put in Monroes a couple years ago (closeout sale but I learned my lesson), I threw away the OEM front struts... which I'm pretty sure I now need to put the Konis in . Would hollowing out the (cheap, already rusting) Monroe struts work? If not I guess I need to get some OEMs from a junkyard. Would some from a GXE work?
#2
Suspension wise the se and gxe should pretty much be the same so you should be fine. Are you referring to the rear tubes you need to reuse and fill with hydrolic oil for the rear shocks? If so I would think you'd be fine using ones from a gxe. I noticed you referred to the fronts which is a little confusing because you just need the strut, spring and upper strut mounts which if in Good shape you could reuse the mounts but for what they're worth your probably better to just go new on those. Not sure what you mean by needing to hollow out your front Monroe's? Also yes lowering springs do make for better handling but a bit rougher ride on bumpy roads but if you prefer the handling in a lower ride that's the sacrifice you generally make. Eibach's were good quality but also a 1.25" drop which is a happy medium where b&g are a 2" drop which makes it a little harsher over bumps but still an o.k option. There may also be sprint lowering springs around if you look up sprints. I believe they're a 2" drop too.
Last edited by ac max 92; 07-03-2018 at 06:17 AM.
#4
Thanks for the replys, and sorry for the confusion.
I have the OEM housings in the back because the Monroe rears are inserts just like the Konis. So I'm good there. For the front, the Monroes are complete struts. By "hollowing out" I was referring to what I believe is the procedure for installing the Konis (see here), where you cut the top off the strut tube, empty out the oil and bolt in the Koni insert from the bottom. I'm not sure I can perform this on the Monroes, which I think are gas charged. I don't really want to because they seem flimsy. I plan to go to a junkyard and see what I scrounge up but there are only a couple 3rd gens in the few local yards near me. (I'm in the DC area.) I bought all new mounts last time, so everything should still be in good shape.
If the Eibachs are ~1.25" drop and my SE springs have sagged ~1/2 to 1" already, I'm wondering how much of a difference would there be? I read spring sag leaves rate unaffected. I can see it making a big difference if the Eibachs are stiffer, but what I'm hearing is they're nice because they're not too stiff. I haven't seen any for sale anyway. The b&gs are listed here as 1.6", not sure if that's accurate though. I don't want to go for a 2" drop because of the already limited strut travel, so that rules out Sprint. I also don't want to pay $$$ for a stiff ride on the b&g so I'm leaning towards just staying stock now. Does anyone know what's a good setting for the Konis on stock springs?
I have the OEM housings in the back because the Monroe rears are inserts just like the Konis. So I'm good there. For the front, the Monroes are complete struts. By "hollowing out" I was referring to what I believe is the procedure for installing the Konis (see here), where you cut the top off the strut tube, empty out the oil and bolt in the Koni insert from the bottom. I'm not sure I can perform this on the Monroes, which I think are gas charged. I don't really want to because they seem flimsy. I plan to go to a junkyard and see what I scrounge up but there are only a couple 3rd gens in the few local yards near me. (I'm in the DC area.) I bought all new mounts last time, so everything should still be in good shape.
If the Eibachs are ~1.25" drop and my SE springs have sagged ~1/2 to 1" already, I'm wondering how much of a difference would there be? I read spring sag leaves rate unaffected. I can see it making a big difference if the Eibachs are stiffer, but what I'm hearing is they're nice because they're not too stiff. I haven't seen any for sale anyway. The b&gs are listed here as 1.6", not sure if that's accurate though. I don't want to go for a 2" drop because of the already limited strut travel, so that rules out Sprint. I also don't want to pay $$$ for a stiff ride on the b&g so I'm leaning towards just staying stock now. Does anyone know what's a good setting for the Konis on stock springs?
#5
The factory struts are gas charged as well, but i do believe they have a slightly thicker tube wall than the Monroe struts. I would personally get a set from the junkyard that has a good housing. You'll be replacing the internals with the cartridge as you already read.
Eibach quit making the springs years ago. i would go with some SE ones, you'll hopefully end up with those anyway if you get them from the junkyard. A good FTSB will stiffen up the front end. Unless you plan to autocross you won't need much more than that.
If you can't find a set shoot me a PM, I might be able to find my factory springs, pretty sure I hung on to them.
Eibach quit making the springs years ago. i would go with some SE ones, you'll hopefully end up with those anyway if you get them from the junkyard. A good FTSB will stiffen up the front end. Unless you plan to autocross you won't need much more than that.
If you can't find a set shoot me a PM, I might be able to find my factory springs, pretty sure I hung on to them.
#7
Thanks for the very helpful info! I'll go with the SE springs. Now I just have to carve out a day to go to the junkyard. Things are busy with work/school/family/friends/other things on the car . I'm considering a beefier sway bar in the rear and an FTSB, but considering I have my eye on a WSP y pipe they might have to wait.
#9
You will need to cut the strut top and I found using a chopsaw gives the best results...Just measure 2-3 times to ensure that's what you want....You will also be drilling a hole in the bottom of the strut housing to provide an anchoring spot for the provided retention bolt! Easy Peasy...pm me if you have anymore questions!
#11
Thanks for the tips guys! It's great to see you seasoned guys chiming in on the 3rd gen section. I'll probably use a pipe cutter since I don't have a chop saw. Hopefully the one I have is hefty enough, it's more like a tubing cutter. Summer ran out, and now I've been in LA for school, so I won't get around to all this till winter break (December), but I'll definitely post my progress then. Next fall I plan to drive the car out here and probably stay in CA when I graduate. That will hopefully keep the rust at bay.
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