Ok - NOW I'm ****ed. Tranny front seal leak
 

I gto the tranny torn down and found why the input seal is leaking.

When I cut off the broken input bearing I gouged the seal surface. The input shaft is toast.

So where can I get a new input shaft? :mad: For all the work I might as well look at buying a junkyard tranny instead.

You have a 5-speed correct?

Yup. New input shaft from the dealer will be about $300 and I have to transfers all the components (gears/synchros etc)

Anyone got a junked tranny they can sell em the input shaft from?

Anyone know where I can get that longer 5th gear that people where talking about?

dam, hope u the best in your search Scruit

Here's the update. I went to the dealer saturday to ask the price of a new input shaft. $300. I aslo asked how much they'd charge to swap the gears over onto the new shaft (figuring it would take them like an hour, and that would be cheaper than buying the tool to do it myself) Well, like most people these days if the computer doesn't remind them when to breathe, they'd friggin' suffocate to death. "That's not on the computer so I cabn't quote you". The best I got out of them was "Come back monday when out tranny guy is in and he can give us an hour estimate.

They also hd no clue where I could purchase the special tool to do this myself. If nothing else I can just pay them to remove the gears and I can press them on myself, but that's option 2

The service guy DID say that using a lathe to turn the shaft back down to being smooth would make it leak. He suggested I go to a machien shop and have them match the metal, weld a blob into the nick and THEN turn/polish it back down to spec. That's a good suggestion, I figured.

I took the shaft to NAPA and they said they'd have to wait until monday for the machinist to get in an give them an opinion. The nick is only 0.01-0.02" deep, and 0.2" wide (just 'tapped' the surface with the grinder) but that's enough to make it leak.

I'll find out tomorrow whether they can fix it. If they can't then I'll go to a couple more havy-duty machinist shops (I suspect NAPA doesn't do much more than rotors/flywheels/blocks etc) and hopefully I'll find a place that can do it. I also hope it'd only cost a hundred or so - unless it costs more than $300 though, I'd do it.

Moral of the story - be VERY careful around sealing surfaces!!

On the plus side, I KNOW my pan/rearmain work is solid - I was able to inspect it all again after 100 miles and it's all good - no UV signatures across that whole sealing surface. Once I get this shaft fixed (or replaced) I'll be back on the road.

In the meantime my truck is getting better and better. Figured out the prebious owner mixed up the IAT for the ECU and Coolant for the dash guage. The connectors are similar enough they plug in the wrong way round, and because they are both temp sensors that read similar temps, I never noticed it before, only that the temp guage seemed to stay very low all the time. now it reads like a normal truck. Also the knock sensor was unplugged. Just waiting on the new exhaust to replace the offroad straightpipe (a little too noisy for a daily driver)

Napa couldn't fix it, but the next machien shop I tried said they'd use JB weld in the nick, then lathe/polish it back to spec. Cost $40. I pick it up tomorrow. :D