Guest

All right all stars, i've read all sorts of posts, and have a mystery for ya'll. My 96 SE manual trans. The symptoms: 1) Occasional hesitation at 2400 - 2700 RPM's under heavy acceleration. 2) Rough idle: car generally idles around 700 rpms, but lately, when I decelerate to come to a stop, as soon as I press in the clutch, and off the gas, the tach drops to about 300 - 400 rpm'S, the car gives a little shudder, then returns to norml idle (700 RPM's). 3) Ever so slight hesitation when acceleration off the line from standstill. The diagnosis: The MIL is on full time, and gives codes 0304 (knock sensor?). and 0111 (Evap flow / purge?) can these be the cause??. Sparkplugs were replaced with NGK 19K ago, and 2 ignition coils have been replaced in last 20K miles (according to my mechanic). I would truly appreciate sme advice before I dig into the coils, plugs, etc.
Sage

Daniel B. Martin

My guess is that Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 is not related to your driveability complaints, but DTC 0111 is. The factory service manual says that DTC 0111 is detected when
- EVAP control system does not operate properly.
- EVAP control system has a leak in the line between intake manifold and EVAP control system pressure sensor.

The manual gives a laundry list of possible causes.
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve stuck closed.
- EVAP control system pressure sensor and its circuit.
- Loose, disconnected, or improper connection of rubber tube.
- Blocked rubber tube.
- Blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve.
- Cracked EVAP canister.
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
- Closed Throttle Position Switch.
- Improper connection of one-way valve.
- Blocked purge port.
- EVAP canister vent control valve.

Your list of symptoms includes a rough idle and an almost-stall when coming to a stop. That makes me think "vacuum leak" so I'd look at all the "rubber tube" items in the laundry list as a first resort.

sleeper

do you have piaa fog lights?

Guest

I have the Factory fogs, ... piaa??? not sure what those are.
thanks for your help so far guys
sage

V8SNIPER

Knock sensor will make your car do all the symptoms you were describing above.
Evap system code is more of an emmissions code for the evaporative purge flow system and canister.
If the knock sensor is not retarding the timing ,you can get the symptoms above.

lil_Jay22

iTrader: (1)

I just did the self diognostic and got the trouble codes for the "Knock Sensor" and "Throdle Closed Position Switch", I have a 96 5sp and i have felt what 96SEMERALD did when stoping; when the car feels like its going to stall because the rpms drom to about 300 and then jump back up to idle 700, which you guys mentioned sounds like the knock sensor's handy work.
My question is: The codes that we get, are they the things that need to be replaced?


Im trying to see what kind of problems the other thing(thordle closed position switch) would cause.

FLO_BOY

Except, mine are more pronounced...

although my MIL hasn't come on in a while, I always seem to get the "Knock Sensor" code, among others...I cleaned my Throttle Body and now the stalling happens less, but still happens...

People have offered the following solutions:

1) Vaccuum leak
2) Failing Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
3) Bad MAFS
4) Bad Throttle Position Sensor

I don't have the time to fully "fix" my problems, so I am still working on this one.

G.

Stillen_I30

try getting a new knock sensor. for some reason, it seems like its some kind of nissan conspiracy where the knock sensor is so small and difficult to access, and it costs 180 bucks at the dealer, and if they did it for you, it would cost over 300. only requires that one bolt be removed, but its REALLY tough to remove that bolt. I just changed mine out 30 mins ago, it was tough as hell but got rid of the 0304 code.

SuDZ

What was the best way to get at it?

SuDZ

Stillen_I30

well after blowing over 100 at sears for various angled wrenches and flex sockets, i realized that the best way to do it was with the tools i already had. I just used my 3/8"socket wrench and a long screw driver. glad they have the return policy at sears...