blemhco stage 2 tie bar
#1
blemhco stage 2 tie bar
anyone try this on their max???
http://www.mattblehm.com/suspension.html
i read the review on vqpower but wanted to see if anyone here got ot on theirs and their experience/worth with these
http://www.mattblehm.com/suspension.html
i read the review on vqpower but wanted to see if anyone here got ot on theirs and their experience/worth with these
#2
i've only heard of a couple members who have this....mostly due to the fact that he is new to the "vender" scene....I'v eonly heard good posts regarding his products and from what pictures I hav seen the welds and fabrications look worthy too.....contact him if you have quetions
#4
I don't see how this would have any effect on oversteer or understeer. It does stiffen the front end like the FSTB does up top. Main downside is that it decreases ground clearance significantly. It can become the lowest part of the car and you will probably scrap from time to time and hit a lot of things you wouldn't ordinarly hit (ie. roadkill, larger rocks, etc.)... especially if you are lowered. Proper installation is critical--air tools highly recommended.
#5
well i got RSB and FSTB, and some new struts after my backend almost slammed into the guard rail goign only 90, car feels alot more rigid, and more stiffer, i think its worth the $$$, jsut wanted to see if there any prob with them ppl had maybe i'll find one used
#9
Yeah, the WSP SFC are heavy but it seriously feels like there is a steel plate welded to the bottom of the car...and if you're worried about the weight don't buy them.....compromise the weight by getting l8ighter tires/wheel combos or brake kits.....this is a suspension mod that WILL impress you!
My buddy who isn't on the org has the stage II kit and all I can say is WOW!!! This is a very under-rated and relatively inexpensive mod.
My buddy who isn't on the org has the stage II kit and all I can say is WOW!!! This is a very under-rated and relatively inexpensive mod.
#10
Originally Posted by Linkage23
Yeah, the WSP SFC are heavy but it seriously feels like there is a steel plate welded to the bottom of the car...and if you're worried about the weight don't buy them.....compromise the weight by getting l8ighter tires/wheel combos or brake kits.....this is a suspension mod that WILL impress you!
My buddy who isn't on the org has the stage II kit and all I can say is WOW!!! This is a very under-rated and relatively inexpensive mod.
My buddy who isn't on the org has the stage II kit and all I can say is WOW!!! This is a very under-rated and relatively inexpensive mod.
#12
That's not bad at all. It's like taking off an aftermarket y-pipe, cat-back, and suspension and putting the sock stuff back. You can always stop eating and lose 30lbs. Inexpensive? Not sure about that. $200+ shipping+getting it welded on. You're looking at $300+ easily.
#13
the WSP needs to be welded on? i was lookin at the blehmco bar as an addition to my car and planned on having it installed at the same time as my RSB, sorta like a stage 2 to my suspension upgrade. stage 1 is gonna be my AGX shocks, my intrax springs, and my fstb. i guess stage 3 was gonna be the WSP sub frame connectors but im not sure if i want to have stuff welded on. ill have to think about it.
also about the weight issue, im sure you can install the bar and save weight by downgrading any special audio systems, like in my case i have 3 12's i can survive by keeping just 1 12 or maybe 1 15. the box and the 3 12's easily weigh in at 100-125
pounds.
CF Hoods, lighter wheels/tires, remove spare wheel and jack, keep windshield water tank on half or quarter (that water gets heavy). driver loosing weight, thers no telling how much faster id be if i went on a diet.
also about the weight issue, im sure you can install the bar and save weight by downgrading any special audio systems, like in my case i have 3 12's i can survive by keeping just 1 12 or maybe 1 15. the box and the 3 12's easily weigh in at 100-125
pounds.
CF Hoods, lighter wheels/tires, remove spare wheel and jack, keep windshield water tank on half or quarter (that water gets heavy). driver loosing weight, thers no telling how much faster id be if i went on a diet.
#16
30 lbs is NOTHING for what SFCs will give, and think about this: that's 30 lbs at the very bottom of your car, which will lower the car's center of gravity/mass and make it handle better. Best 30 lbs you ever put on your car.
Good to hear that rumor about WSP improving the SFCs. I plan on buying them by next summer.
Good to hear that rumor about WSP improving the SFCs. I plan on buying them by next summer.
#17
Oh, BTW I have the BlehmCo LTB and it improves handling in corners far more than a FSTB. My biggest gripe is the clearance. It's only bad if you have to drive on a dirt road with a hump in the middle (I did this earlier this month and ended up dragging rocks along with me, haha) but for street driving it's not going to reduce your effective clearance in 95% of the situations you'll encounter because it's right between the front wheels.
#18
Originally Posted by VQuick
Oh, BTW I have the BlehmCo LTB and it improves handling in corners far more than a FSTB. My biggest gripe is the clearance. It's only bad if you have to drive on a dirt road with a hump in the middle (I did this earlier this month and ended up dragging rocks along with me, haha) but for street driving it's not going to reduce your effective clearance in 95% of the situations you'll encounter because it's right between the front wheels.
another concern for me is palm tree branches, there are always friggin palm tree branches layin in the middle of the road here in FL , id h8 to run over one and have it drag with me, or have it mess something up underneath the car.
#19
Road obstructions are a big concern. Especially if you are going too fast to swerve out of the way. There was once a piece of concrete in front that was normally low enough that I just drove over it. Well it hit the bar and I ended up dragging the chunk about 50 ft before it must of broken up. Another time, I had two other people in the car and a gently undulating portion of the road taken only 10mph over the speed limit managed to scrape the bar. I was quite disappointed. Definitely an ongoing concern.
If I had a good place to do welding, I would easily choose to go the WSP subframe route...
If I had a good place to do welding, I would easily choose to go the WSP subframe route...
#20
Originally Posted by Magikone69
what about speed bumps/humps/ speed dips. any worry about the bar.
another concern for me is palm tree branches, there are always friggin palm tree branches layin in the middle of the road here in FL , id h8 to run over one and have it drag with me, or have it mess something up underneath the car.
another concern for me is palm tree branches, there are always friggin palm tree branches layin in the middle of the road here in FL , id h8 to run over one and have it drag with me, or have it mess something up underneath the car.
Mishmosh, do you think adding SFC Stage I & II will negate most of the benefit of a LTB anyway? Because I plan on getting SFCs and I might consider removing the LTB at that point if there's not much additional benefit.
#22
#23
I'm running S-techs and ground clearance has been okay for me. Just some places needs to be taken with caution like any lowered car. The LTB is a really great addition to suspension modding at a fairly good price for bolt on.
I would reccomend AUTOMATICS to use the Energy Suspension Bushings for this installation like how BlehmCo described. It makes the installation much easier, not getting the bushing made me work a tad bit harder. Manual drivers... this installation is cake for you guys!
Overall great addition to a RSB if you have one. Just my thoughts on things
I would reccomend AUTOMATICS to use the Energy Suspension Bushings for this installation like how BlehmCo described. It makes the installation much easier, not getting the bushing made me work a tad bit harder. Manual drivers... this installation is cake for you guys!
Overall great addition to a RSB if you have one. Just my thoughts on things
#24
well it wouldnt matter if the car is dropped or not would it. i thought that dropping the car just drops the chasis. it shouldnt affect the connection of where the tie rod would be installed right.
i really want to get this mod now, is there any side affects tho, do you feel the bumps in the road more, any wierd noises, is the ride quality affected. anything need to be replaced when installing the blemco rod, like bushings or different sized bolts or watever?
i really want to get this mod now, is there any side affects tho, do you feel the bumps in the road more, any wierd noises, is the ride quality affected. anything need to be replaced when installing the blemco rod, like bushings or different sized bolts or watever?
#26
I've got the bar, and I love it. And let me go ahead and straighten things out. The overersteer from a rear sway bar is induced due to suspension stiffening. This front tie bar does not affect suspension stiffness at all, and will not reduce the oversteer. The bar acts similar to a FSTB, and stiffens the unibody. What you will get is a much more firm feeling from the steering. For anyone doing any road racing or autocrossing, you will know that there is a slight pause in steering response while running the car hard in the turns. This bar essentially removes the pause. Steering is quick and precise.
As stated on the torquing of the bolts...... YES!. Torque the **** out of them. The way the bar is designed, you wil get a metal on metal rubbing sound when you go over bumps or dips if the bar isn't torqued down properly. As a hint, torque down the front two bolts first, and then tighten down the two rears. After the two rears a tight, go back and hit the front ones again.
As stated on the torquing of the bolts...... YES!. Torque the **** out of them. The way the bar is designed, you wil get a metal on metal rubbing sound when you go over bumps or dips if the bar isn't torqued down properly. As a hint, torque down the front two bolts first, and then tighten down the two rears. After the two rears a tight, go back and hit the front ones again.
#27
Actually, if you look on WSP's site, they say to get the LTB, FSTB, RSB, RSTB (basically all the suspension mods) BEFORE you get the subframe connectors.
Given this is common sense, since your welding the conectors on, you want your frame to be as ridgid and completely stiff as possible as this completes the suspension stiffness to a maximum...
anyone correct me if im wrong...
Given this is common sense, since your welding the conectors on, you want your frame to be as ridgid and completely stiff as possible as this completes the suspension stiffness to a maximum...
anyone correct me if im wrong...
#28
30 pounds isnt anything. I was expecting much more for all that metal. It does look like it will make the car handle like a dream.
If you have coil overs and have the car slammed, would it make it easier to scrape the 2 pipes running parallel to each other? What i mean is do they stick out a little lower then the car?
If you have coil overs and have the car slammed, would it make it easier to scrape the 2 pipes running parallel to each other? What i mean is do they stick out a little lower then the car?
#31
What do you mean by full exhaust system. I'm running a Y-Pipe, and that's all the exhaust there is in that area of the car. As for the Warpspeed subframes, they have an adapter that you have to run when using a stock cat back, or you upgrade to their B-Pipe. No exhaust problems to worry about.
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