Valve Cover Torque Spec.
 

Hello,

Does anyone know how much to torque down the valve cover bolts and the tightening sequence of them?

Thanks.

According to the Haynes manual here goes...

Chapter 2B-4 and -5

Following the recommended tightening sequence, tighten the bolts, in two equal steps.

First step is 9 to 26 in-lbs
Second step is 48 to 65 in-lbs

There are 10 bolts on the front valve cover. Assuming your looking at the engine from the front of the car to the rear, here is a very crappy illustration

#6 #2 #4 #8
o---o---o---o

#9 o_______o# 10

o---o---o---o
#5 #1 #3 #7

Enjoy

Awesome, thanks for the info...just what I needed!!!

Another related question. Is there any special sealant aside from using the gaskets that comes with the gasket replacement kit that is needed to make a good seal? The reason why I had to do this work in the first place is because the last mechanic that did the same work did a very poor job at it. I came back to him twice because I kept getting leaks from the valve cover areas (front and back). I got tired of it and decided to do this myself. My first time too, removing the intake manifold was a pain. I also discovered that a hose connecting the two valve covers together behind the upper timing cover is cracked. So that needs replacing too.

Thanks for the help.

Just regular silicone... use the black one if possible and make sure you get a nice bead all the way around. Its pretty easy, if it was done before then that means who ever did it didnt use enough silicone. Trust me just use common sense (which many people lack nowadays) and use a nice bead all the way around including the bolts and that sucker wont ever leak again. The only other thing I would change while down there is the spark plug tube seals... only because mine are leaking :(

So aside from the gaskets, you recommend black silicone. When / where do you apply it, after reinstalling the covers or before. The reason I ask is because the cover has these grooves where the gasket would sit on, kinda like a guide to seat the gasket down properly. So where would you put the silicone at? Hope this question isn't dumb. Thanks again.

Nah its not a silly question, my old Corolla was the same way, it sat in a groove in the head instead of just a flat paper gasket.

Put a small amount inside the cover just to hold the rubber gasket in place and make sure you put a coat in the front camshaft journal cap where its prone to leaking. If you really want to be sure you can put a thin coat on top of the rubber gasket as well... just dont over do it :D

of course it would be worse if you used red silicone and over did it... everyone would know you did it yourself... not that I would know.. :hide:

Sweet!!!! Thanks again.

You know I was actually going to follow your advice at post #17 at this thread. I was getting ready to get an engine at K.Watanabe Corp. in Lynwood California. I got a rebuilt transmission from them for my 88 Toyota Celica and the replacement that I got from them ran until I totalled the car in '94 in a car accident. So I know they have good quality Japanese transmissions and engines. I hadn't inquired about the price though but I was going to go ahead and dive in on a low mileage used engine and get everything over with. If you want to know more, their website is: http://www.kwcengine.com/ . I still might get one later on and prep it for boosting...who knows. If sealing the covers with silicone works this time, then the money that I was gonna use for the engine can now be used for my sound system...well partial of that money.

Whats funny is I just put in another half a quart of oil today because of that stupid leak. I definately am going tomorrow first thing in the morning to check it out. The only thing that sucks with VQ's is if your going to get another engine, it is almost a MUST to put in a new water pump before you install the engine. Just thinking of the job itself when I replaced mine makes me shudder. As for the silicone just make sure it seals up right, if your doing it yourself then you have the knowledge on how to do it. I do all my own work on my car and have learned the hard way, do it right the first time.

As for the sound system... I really recommend CDT's.. I have a set of CDT components up front and coaxials out back with a Rockford amp. They sound beautiful for the money.. only $150. I also have 2 Rockford HX2 12" subs with a Lanzar amp... and again for the money, it sounds pretty damn decent. I only spent $800 total for system and let me tell you, as long as you tune it right, it sounds beautiful. I'm getting rid of the subs and amps though and going with better stuff but the CDT's are definately staying.

BTW....what is the camshaft journal cap?

As for the system, I have had a JL15w3 sub and just got a pair of used Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5 components and a pair of Reference 6.5 for the rears for dirt cheap from another org member. All I need now is a JL 450/4 amp and I'm set. It's around $700! Maybe I'll find one cheaper on eBay.

I dunno thats what the haynes manual said :laugh:

Its where the valve cover meets the top of the camshafts

Sweet!!!! I was about to call my friend and ask him...thanks for your assistance. Hopefully this will solve this problem that has been getting on my nerves for months. My next major job is rear main seal as there is a mild sign of leakes but nothing major...waiting on my clutch to go out so I can get that done at the same time as the rear main seal. It's been 133k miles and I'm still on the original clutch! But I dont feel any signs of clutch slippage.

Rear main seal sounds fun :(

I still cant believe the stock clutch has lasted that long, someone knows how to baby it. That goodness I have an auto, I would've ripped apart the clutch and gears in it a long time ago. But getting the rear main seal is no joke.. might as well do the clutch and flywheel. HOpefully it'll last for another 130k

Well, there are other things that I might as well do when I do dive into the clutch and rear main seal job. There's the diff carier bearings that I might as well do once I'm in there, but that requires tearing the tranny apart...another 3 hr job = more $$$. :mecry:

As Tight As My 3/8inch Impact Gun Gets Em.

Get it all done at once... thats one job I dont ever wanna do

Well...I just finished a few hours ago. I had to wait on new gaskets and o-rings and it took half a day to get them. I took my time and siliconed all the seams and rings. I applied a layer of black silicone along the camshaft journal caps. I tightened all bolts just like suggested, 65in./lb. didn't seem very tight at all. I wanted to tighten it some more but I figured I follow what the Haynes manual recommended. The silicone made a good seal around the seams and I let it sit and settle for about 2 hrs before I let the engine run. Meanwhile, I put everything else back together.

I drove the car after for about 20 minutes. Then put it back on the lift and inspected below and around the engine block and valve covers where the leak had originated from. So far no leaks. I'll inspect it again after a few days and we'll see what happens.

let it stand over night, I usually get 2 good drops under my control arm. I didnt get a chance to check my valve cover today, I was in a rush to get to work and tomorrow its going to rain.

BTW check ebay for the amps, thats where I got most of my system from. Get a nice 4ch like the JL you said and one for the sub.. or subs and you'll be set.