owners of aftermarket steering wheels
 

I know a bunch of you have installed an aftermarket steering wheel on your Maxima. What brand and adaptor do you have on and did it come with the resistor to fool your Air Bag sensor. A friend of mine has a Volkswagen Jetta and he got one with the resistor. It just bugs me to see the Air Bag light on and having the resistor helps. I don't feel like opening up my dash to disconnect the Air bag light and i don't wanna put a black tape over my Indigo gauge overlays to cover it.

Thanks in advance
Eric

no resistors if you can kill the airbag light by removing a bulb then do it. 99's do not have that option.

Oh trust me there is always an option, a little snip snip to a wire and your done lol.

C'mon guys i need your input. I'm about to make an order for an aftermarket steering wheel.

well if you want it to work this is what you do since no after market company really takes an interest in maximas.

1.
take your FSM or Haynes/chilton manual.
look at the wiring diagram.
figure out whish wires on the harness for the clock spring lead to the airbag.
figure out what resistance is needed(if any) in order to bypass the drivers side air bag.
you may luck out and might be able to just use a jumper to complete the circuit.
make a jumper harness.
connect the harness to the right pins and hopefully it will turn off your SRS light.

im to lazy to do all that so i just put a sticker over the light.

2.
to buy a nismo hub.
but the momo and sparco and any other steering wheel with the same bolt pattern will not work on the nismo hub. soooooooo you buy a universal quick realease with two sets off bolt patterens. the universal quick release will allow you to adapt a momo sterring wheel to a nismo hub. advantages off this set up. you can keep the OEM clock spring in place. they come with a few jumper harnesses and its "NISMO" (for those who care).

draw back of this set up is. $$$$$$$$$$
momo/sparco hubs ~$50 dollars

nismo hubs cost $159-$199 + quick release ~$70-$100 dollars

steering wheels (momo/sparco) normally go for around $200 bucks for a nice one not a POS OBX or something similar.

those are your options. simple snip off a wire?????? im not to sure about that. unless you are positive that that one snip off the wire will only effect the SRS light but take a close look at the back off the tach cluster and tell me if you want to start snipping wires.

or would the 30 mins or so it would take to pull your tach cluster out and putting a sticker over the srs light is worht it. or better yet if all you have to do is pull a bulb out.

choice is yours.

I just removed the bulb for the SRS light. Figured if there isn't an airbag, there doesn't need to be a warning light for the airbag. It's quick and easy. Pulling the bulb is easier than covering the light with tape. You don't even need to remove the clear plastic cover. Just pop the cluster out and pull the bulb from the back, takes 10 minutes.

And I'm running a MOMO Jet wheel w/ MOMO hub.

Thanks JDMMax and Shadow, I'll probably get a Momo or a Sparco steering wheel and just pop the bulb out for the airbag light. But I do have the Nissan eletrical manual for my car. I'll look into JDMMax's idea regarding the resistance needed to fool the Air Bag sensor.

By the Way Shadow nice max, how's your auto tranny holding up to your 300+ hp motor. I really wanna boost my car but afraid that i'll toast my trans. So the 5spd conversion is my first step but gathering all the parts are just taking awhile.

Eric

Auto is still holding up great. Surprisingly, my motor went first. Rings are shot, so a new motor is about to be ordered. When I get the new motor in, I'm hoping to up the boost to 12psi and see where that puts me. Hoping for almost 400whp. If it goes, I'll replace it.

So with a 7lbs boost you blew your piston rings or you was boosting higher. My friend's Lexus IS300 blew his piston rings and cracked his ring lands after boosting 15 lbs. his internally stock motor. Now he is running the stock Supra pistons and everything else is stock. And also my friend's Nissan Hardbody truck broke it's ring lands after racing a mustang going uphill for about 8 miles stretch. He was still able to drive truck since it already had total seal piston rings but he was still running stock pistons. Now his motor is fully built, blueprinted and balanced. At 14 lbs. boost he dynoed at 257 HP and 289 TQ

http://www.eight08.net/2001/mauifest20.jpg
http://www.eight08.net/2001/mauifest34.jpg

Very nice cars.

I don't think it was so much the power level that blew it, but age and a previous mishap. Before the turbo, I had a Stillen SC that was installed by a local shop. They really messed up the install (crazy belt alignment problems) and they didn't hook up the power wire to the aux. fuel pump properly. It fell off and my aux. pump wasn't working for probably 5 weeks during which time I made a bunch of drag passes and drove the car hard. I did a compression test after fixing it, and I remember that at the time, one cylinder was about 15psi lower than the others.

That was 20K ago, and I've been turbocharged for about 10K miles. I was fully expecting this, I just didn't think the motor would last this long. Also, I had a cracked 370cc injector that was flooding one of the cylinders, so it may have washed out the ring. Regardless, I'm replacing the motor w/ a lower mileage stock one for now and having mine built and I'll reinstall it probably in the winter.