Is K&N actually worth the $40?
#81
sorry rmurdoch, but I can't sit by idle anymore
I see you posting in almost every thread, and I see you giving a ton
of bad advice.
you and your chevron techron.. gimme a break
btw..I know your not 53 years old...before you entered your age a few months ago, your posts
sounded like a 18 year old with the grammer you were using.
You read alot, but you don't have any natural mechanical abilty.
You sit here and regurgitate info from the stickies, but you obviously don't understand
how it all comes together.
you jumped all over me when I told a guy how to figure out if he has lsd.. and it turned out you were wrong. you should be banned for sitting here all day and shooting your mouth off.
I see you posting in almost every thread, and I see you giving a ton
of bad advice.
you and your chevron techron.. gimme a break
btw..I know your not 53 years old...before you entered your age a few months ago, your posts
sounded like a 18 year old with the grammer you were using.
You read alot, but you don't have any natural mechanical abilty.
You sit here and regurgitate info from the stickies, but you obviously don't understand
how it all comes together.
you jumped all over me when I told a guy how to figure out if he has lsd.. and it turned out you were wrong. you should be banned for sitting here all day and shooting your mouth off.
#82
Originally Posted by sonicrunch
sorry rmurdoch, but I can't sit by idle anymore
I see you posting in almost every thread, and I see you giving a ton
of bad advice.
you and your chevron techron.. gimme a break
btw..I know your not 53 years old...before you entered your age a few months ago, your posts
sounded like a 18 year old with the grammer you were using.
You read alot, but you don't have any natural mechanical abilty.
You sit here and regurgitate info from the stickies, but you obviously don't understand
how it all comes together.
you jumped all over me when I told a guy how to figure out if he has lsd.. and it turned out you were wrong. you should be banned for sitting here all day and shooting your mouth off.
I see you posting in almost every thread, and I see you giving a ton
of bad advice.
you and your chevron techron.. gimme a break
btw..I know your not 53 years old...before you entered your age a few months ago, your posts
sounded like a 18 year old with the grammer you were using.
You read alot, but you don't have any natural mechanical abilty.
You sit here and regurgitate info from the stickies, but you obviously don't understand
how it all comes together.
you jumped all over me when I told a guy how to figure out if he has lsd.. and it turned out you were wrong. you should be banned for sitting here all day and shooting your mouth off.
I could care less about your LSD. I happen to have it. I don't recall having offended you in any thread on that subject, and if I did rest assured that it was not intentional.
I do not post in every thread. I only post in those that interest me or that I feel I know something about. If I am guilty of anything it's perhaps not just making my point/contribution and moving on; I return out of curiosity and I don't think I should be banned for that. There would be a void in my life that I couldn't fill, lol!
Not that it is relevant, but please provide evidence of me ever using poor English. With the amount of post-secondary education I have received and given my working background, I wouldn't know how to go about using poor English. So please get off my case!
I am not a mechanic and will be the first to admit it. However, I have assimilated a fair bit of knowledge since I have been on this website, bobistheoilguy.com, other websites and having perused the Haynes manual and gleaning information through other sources. I do not profess to be perfect and if I have occasionally given an incorrect opinion I apologize to anyone who has taken exception to that and I have meant no one any harm.
If you would so kindly explain to me"how it all comes together" I would gladly listen and learn from you given your remarkable erudition.
#84
Since HKS is such a good company did anyone ever try their replacement air filter http://www.2kracing.com/product_info...9a3eb4e45d8494
#87
Originally Posted by Armelius
100,000 miles are mine and 98,000 of those miles have been on 87. I went through one knock sensor which looked original. Nearly 80 percent of those miles are highway miles. The engine is the best V6 made.
#89
are you guys talking about this? http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...Prod=33-2031-2
#90
Fifty odd dollars of somebody else's is not worth a fight. Please tell us your practical experience with your air filter and zip it. Please don't waist peoples time and bandwidth on off topic garbage.
P.S. I have a K&N. I haven't seen any noticable gains.
P.S. I have a K&N. I haven't seen any noticable gains.
#91
i've used K&N filters for a long time, slight notice in power and mileage, unless your talkin about a worked engine...big gains !!! i have a yamaha banshee thats ported and polished, has many other mods, no other filter works as good.... so. jersey is nothin but sand, i use the pre-filter sleeve and never have a problem !!!!
#94
Originally Posted by Loe max
4X4 if your looking for performance and reliability, you might as well get a short ram or CAI on Ebay that actually does something at the same cost while still contaminating your MAF with oil instead of getting a panal filter that does nothing and still contaminating your MAF.
http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm#2
Stock airbox/Mod airbox + K&N > limited R&D $ mods
#95
Originally Posted by Frank Fontaine
As far as going 30k between cleanings, that's foolish imho. Since I paid for the thing, I clean it every oil change. Sure, perhaps optimum is somewhere around 7500 to 12500, but like I said, I paid and overpaid for the filter and cleaning kit, so I'm going to use it.
IIRC, book says to change the OEM filter @ 30k. I used to change mine every 10 or 15k. They were always clean at the change. 30k is probably about right. I bought a K&N drop in and noticed better throttle response. Nothing significant but at higher RPM's the difference is noticeable.
I'm never going to clean and re-oil it. It's only $40. Not worth the time or hassle. I'll just buy a new one @ 30k - 40k.
The K&N drop-in filter is a good product but when it is done, it's done. Toss it.
#96
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
Why are you doing that? That filter isn't engineered to be oiled every 3,750 miles. Read the directions. Check for gasket deterioration. Do not over oil. Service every 50k to 100k miles. (Read as 50k to me).
IIRC, book says to change the OEM filter @ 30k. I used to change mine every 10 or 15k. They were always clean at the change. 30k is probably about right. I bought a K&N drop in and noticed better throttle response. Nothing significant but at higher RPM's the difference is noticeable.
I'm never going to clean and re-oil it. It's only $40. Not worth the time or hassle. I'll just buy a new one @ 30k - 40k.
The K&N drop-in filter is a good product but when it is done, it's done. Toss it.
IIRC, book says to change the OEM filter @ 30k. I used to change mine every 10 or 15k. They were always clean at the change. 30k is probably about right. I bought a K&N drop in and noticed better throttle response. Nothing significant but at higher RPM's the difference is noticeable.
I'm never going to clean and re-oil it. It's only $40. Not worth the time or hassle. I'll just buy a new one @ 30k - 40k.
The K&N drop-in filter is a good product but when it is done, it's done. Toss it.
I have a spreadsheet with my fuel economy--when the filter reaches about 9k-10k, the mpgs drop. Since I'm changing the oil myself every 5k, that's when I'm getting my hands dirty, and so I redo the K&N. But you're right, K&N is definitely not worth the money and it's a hassle to clean and reoil. But there is always a product that will be sold as long as people are willing to pay, benefit or no benefit. I earnestly question these people who "feel" that the car has more power as a result, because it doesn't. Put it on a dyno if you don't believe me.
#98
Originally Posted by Frank Fontaine
I have a spreadsheet with my fuel economy--when the filter reaches about 9k-10k, the mpgs drop. Since I'm changing the oil myself every 5k, that's when I'm getting my hands dirty, and so I redo the K&N. But you're right, K&N is definitely not worth the money and it's a hassle to clean and reoil. But there is always a product that will be sold as long as people are willing to pay, benefit or no benefit. I earnestly question these people who "feel" that the car has more power as a result, because it doesn't. Put it on a dyno if you don't believe me.
Follow manufacturer directions. K&N makes a good product.
#99
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
#100
Originally Posted by Loe max
Why dont you learn to make sense and research before you post My goodness you newbies are getting anoying by the day. Use the SEARCH function on oil contamination with over-oiled filters. Its just that easy
I performed my first oil change before you were a fertilized egg. I've been changing air filters on Maximas continuously since 1993. If finally creating an account to donate to this site makes me a newbie, then so be it.
Maybe some day I will attain your level of maturity and wisdom. Until then, I hope not to annoy you too much.
#101
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
You have a log proving that you shouldn't clean and oil your filter every 5k.
Follow manufacturer directions. K&N makes a good product.
Follow manufacturer directions. K&N makes a good product.
#102
Originally Posted by Frank Fontaine
I also have receipts showing it to be a waste of money. OEM at 25% off offers not only better airflow than a reoiled K&N, it's money better spent. K&N is like a Weber grill--no matter where you buy it, i.e. Wal Mart has it now, the price is the same rip-off.
$1.11 a month isn't going to break me. I also purchase 91 octane gas. If I could, I'd purchase 93.
Thank you! Good night!
#103
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
You seem to be stuck on that re-oiled thing. It doesn't need to be re-oiled for 50k miles. At the end of 30k, mine is going in the trash.
#105
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
Maybe some day I will attain your level of maturity and wisdom. Until then, I hope not to annoy you too much.
#106
Originally Posted by Loe max
Use the SEARCH function. Its not that hard. I dont care how long you've changed oils, its still a fact that an over oiled K&N will contaminate an MAF. My goodness, now you have to feel the need to justify yourself by your experience? Just use the search function, and write me up a bad REP
Your stock airbox is going to give you better performance than the after-market intakes you mentioned. Maybe *you* should do a search.
Dood, take out your angst on someone else.
#107
Lol. That was stupid. Now I'm the one being angsty. Look, I'm not really interested in whether or not an over-oiled filter can clog the MAF. It's never going to affect me. The stock airbox was designed in such a way as to give optimum performance. After-market intakes do not have the same R&D as factory Nissan or Nismo parts.
Sorry for losing my cool.
Sorry for losing my cool.
#108
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
Your stock airbox is going to give you better performance than the after-market intakes you mentioned. Maybe *you* should do a search.
What makes those drilled hole "modded airbox" with K&N filters have more R&D than an Ebay intake? There is a reason why those with ebay intakes gain just as much as those with more R&D intakes such as JWT (which is more than the stock airbox), just use the SEARCH function. If you would have, you would find that the airbox and everything before it (the snorkel) is the most restrictive part of the intake system. Everything after the air-box is relatively restriction free (factory mid-pipe ect..ect..ect..) Why else do you think that drilled airbox perform similar to an MAF adapter+3" cone filter that you see on ebay? The factory airbox is a restriction The factory mid-pipe acts as an air chamber which is why part-throttle response is more responsive than an aftermarket mid-pipe, but no one is talking about an aftermarket mid-pipe so why are you bringing in that variable and putting words in my mouth? In fact, why are you even bringing a new variable with your "modded airbox" is beyond, especially since my post was pretty CLEAR and ACCURATE in mentioning a STOCK airbox+K&N vs. an EBAY INTAKE
The reason why I mentioned oil contamination in my previous post is because the link you provided from K&N lead me directly to oil contamination and how K&N is not want to be held liable for despite the fact that, which again, an over-oiled filter will do. Do you not read or click on the links you provide?
#109
Originally Posted by Loe max
What makes those drilled hole "modded airbox" with K&N filters have more R&D than an Ebay intake? There is a reason why those with ebay intakes gain just as much as those with more R&D intakes such as JWT (which is more than the stock airbox), just use the SEARCH function. If you would have, you would find that the airbox and everything before it (the snorkel) is the most restrictive part of the intake system. Everything after the air-box is relatively restriction free (factory mid-pipe ect..ect..ect..) Why else do you think that drilled airbox perform similar to an MAF adapter+3" cone filter that you see on ebay? The factory airbox is a restriction The factory mid-pipe acts as an air chamber which is why part-throttle response is more responsive than an aftermarket mid-pipe, but no one is talking about an aftermarket mid-pipe so why are you bringing in that variable and putting words in my mouth? In fact, why are you even bringing a new variable with your "modded airbox" is beyond, especially since my post was pretty CLEAR and ACCURATE in mentioning a STOCK airbox+K&N vs. an EBAY INTAKE
The reason why I mentioned oil contamination in my previous post is because the link you provided from K&N lead me directly to oil contamination and how K&N is not want to be held liable for despite the fact that, which again, an over-oiled filter will do. Do you not read or click on the links you provide?
The reason why I mentioned oil contamination in my previous post is because the link you provided from K&N lead me directly to oil contamination and how K&N is not want to be held liable for despite the fact that, which again, an over-oiled filter will do. Do you not read or click on the links you provide?
#110
Originally Posted by Mayhem King
Wow. You've got some issues. You may want to take a look at that.
#111
Originally Posted by Loe max
How about you stick to the subject instead of resorting to personal attacks? Im still waiting for a "changing oil before I was even in diapers" type of a response from you. Everything that I've said has been accurate. Can you prove otherwise? Until then, stfu newbie.
#112
Yeah, I'm sure it's worth my time to argue with you. Let me get back to you on that one. In the mean time, consider that my link was anchored to the estimated performance of K&N filters.
Oil clogging an MAF is entirely your thing. Try and argue with me all you want about it but it's not something I brought up or have either and concern or opinion about.
Is your ******* so small that you need me to validate your opinion? Okay, oil can clog your MAF. Happy? Who cares. Throw it away when it's spent. It should last 3 years and only costs $40. $30 over 3 years on OEM filters or $40 on a K&N over 3 years. What is the net difference over 3 years? $10.00. I earned it. K&N does produce better airflow. If I wasn't convinced, I wouldn't have switched from OEM. Do I feel the need for you to agree? Not really.
Next subject; after-market intake. Your opinion is that after market intakes are more efficient and therefore produce more gains than the stock intake. I disagree. Deal with it.
And just because I'm "new" to this board doesn't negate that I've had a modified Maxima for the last 8 years. (And another for 4 years preceding that). I registered so that I could donate. However, I'm already regretting posting here.
A new K&N filter will not clog your MAF. K&N makes a quality product. If you do choose to clean your K&N filter, follow manufacturer directions.
That's my opinion in a nutshell. Don't give me a weak argument like, "Do a search and see how much smarter than you I am!!!" and then tell me that I am a noob and to STFU. That's not even an argument. It's a cry for help.
I'm done trading insults with you. Now if you are so smart, you would clue me in to the most cost effective way to replace my exterior GLE trim with SE exterior trim. If you can't do that for me, I don't have much of a reason to continue communcation with you. Enjoy the rest of your day.
Oil clogging an MAF is entirely your thing. Try and argue with me all you want about it but it's not something I brought up or have either and concern or opinion about.
Is your ******* so small that you need me to validate your opinion? Okay, oil can clog your MAF. Happy? Who cares. Throw it away when it's spent. It should last 3 years and only costs $40. $30 over 3 years on OEM filters or $40 on a K&N over 3 years. What is the net difference over 3 years? $10.00. I earned it. K&N does produce better airflow. If I wasn't convinced, I wouldn't have switched from OEM. Do I feel the need for you to agree? Not really.
Next subject; after-market intake. Your opinion is that after market intakes are more efficient and therefore produce more gains than the stock intake. I disagree. Deal with it.
And just because I'm "new" to this board doesn't negate that I've had a modified Maxima for the last 8 years. (And another for 4 years preceding that). I registered so that I could donate. However, I'm already regretting posting here.
4X4 if your looking for performance and reliability, you might as well get a short ram or CAI on Ebay that actually does something at the same cost while still contaminating your MAF with oil instead of getting a panal filter that does nothing and still contaminating your MAF.
That's my opinion in a nutshell. Don't give me a weak argument like, "Do a search and see how much smarter than you I am!!!" and then tell me that I am a noob and to STFU. That's not even an argument. It's a cry for help.
I'm done trading insults with you. Now if you are so smart, you would clue me in to the most cost effective way to replace my exterior GLE trim with SE exterior trim. If you can't do that for me, I don't have much of a reason to continue communcation with you. Enjoy the rest of your day.
#113
Originally Posted by Bobo
Maybe some people don't have tolerance for a poster who doesn't even own a Maxima anymore!
http://www.nctd.com/review-intro.cfm...4&ReviewID=284
http://www.automotive.com/1997/12/au...pecifications/
http://www.chrismore.com/audi_a4.asp
Ultimately, I think I made the right decision. The GLE has great features and much better stock performance.
I can't knock the A4. It was a really close decision for me.
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