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-   4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) (https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999-6/)
-   -   Fixing a speedometer and odometer that work sporadically (https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/311797-fixing-speedometer-odometer-work-sporadically.html)

jayshawn39 05-24-2014 09:12 AM

what about 1996
 

Originally Posted by mrwhizard (Post 8554571)
Speedometer erratic; Temp and Fuel gauges pegged to high? Odo reading 999999? WE can repair. Visit http://www.mrwhizard.com for more info

Know anyone who repairs nissan maxima 1996

tosheto 05-24-2014 01:46 PM

Just follow the instruction on here. I fixed the same problem on a 97 Maxima SE recently. Took out the speedometer and tight up the screws on the back, also re-soldered the big connection point on the back of the circuit board. When I put it back together everything worked great and still does until this day.

mrquest 06-09-2014 09:27 PM

Hey guys I have a 2002 maxima and my gas tank reads full even tho its not and even when the gas tank is empty it reads alil below full..... my speedometer doesnt work at all but the temp for the car works just fine im just as mind bottled as anyone about these issues unfortunately I cant tell how much gas I have ...took it to a mechanic claimed I had a bad tank sender and couple of codes p0462 p0113 p1614 and p1706 unfortunately im just entering the max life and would love some assistance as I love my 02 6spd and just got it

mnelson505 06-10-2014 05:51 AM

Instrument Problems - 99 Maxima
 
I was having issues with my Fuel, Speed, Tach, and temp gauges. They would work fine for the first few minutes of driving, and then they would either read incorrectly or not at all. For example the speedometer was reading 98 when I was at a stoplight. The digital odometer did not read at all. I also had check engine codes P0500, P0325, and P0500P. From reading stuff on here and other sites, I was convinced it was my instrument cluster.

Turns out it was my alternator. Luckily I found that out before buying a replacement cluster. I found it out because my car died on my way to work. I had it towed home and checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was around 13.4V with lights, defrost, and fan to max. I replaced the alternator and now it reads around 14.4V.

If you are having instrument issues, I would definitely check your alternator before doing too much.

Great alternator replacement video:

The only thing I did not do was pull the radiator hose. I was able to get the fans out without removing the hose.

mrquest 06-10-2014 11:15 AM


Originally Posted by mnelson505 (Post 8959639)
I was having issues with my Fuel, Speed, Tach, and temp gauges. They would work fine for the first few minutes of driving, and then they would either read incorrectly or not at all. For example the speedometer was reading 98 when I was at a stoplight. The digital odometer did not read at all. I also had check engine codes P0500, P0325, and P0500P. From reading stuff on here and other sites, I was convinced it was my instrument cluster.

Turns out it was my alternator. Luckily I found that out before buying a replacement cluster. I found it out because my car died on my way to work. I had it towed home and checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was around 13.4V with lights, defrost, and fan to max. I replaced the alternator and now it reads around 14.4V.

If you are having instrument issues, I would definitely check your alternator before doing too much.

Great alternator replacement video:

The only thing I did not do was pull the radiator hose. I was able to get the fans out without removing the hose.




Do you know of any vids on replacing the 02-03 max cluster I have one that I could change in see if that works for me and then check the alternator

JvG 06-10-2014 11:34 AM

You have a 5th generation Maxima. You will find more helpful information in the 5th generation forum. This forum is for the 4th generation Maximas, 1995-1999.

tosheto 06-10-2014 02:55 PM

Taking out the cluster is easy. Just take out couple of trim pieces that are on the way and that's it.

mnelson505 06-25-2014 04:50 AM

Well I guess I thought the alternator fixed the cluster. The instruments worked for about 10 days and now they are having issues again. I have a 20 minute daily commute one way. Usually they work fine in the morning and quit working in the evening half way through the drive. This morning they quit after about 15 minutes. I am really confused what is going on. I checked my alternator voltage and it is about 14.4V.

emjee 11-12-2014 07:36 PM

Odometer Not Working
 
I have a 96 Max Se and my speedo and all else work fine, but my odometer and trip counter just quit working, and it is the old non-digital type. Anyone have any suggestions? In fact I took it to 10 minute oil change yesterday and am pretty sure thats when it quit.Also, does the computer store the actual mileage? Thanks

Icemule 11-17-2014 09:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by emjee (Post 9000019)
I have a 96 Max Se and my speedo and all else work fine, but my odometer and trip counter just quit working, and it is the old non-digital type. Anyone have any suggestions? In fact I took it to 10 minute oil change yesterday and am pretty sure thats when it quit.Also, does the computer store the actual mileage? Thanks

You can do like others and take it out and tighten the screws.I did that and it worked for a few days so I read all the posts here and took it back off and really looked at it and saw corrosion running from the solder points to the copper strips.

So I used my finger nails to scrap it away and put it back in and all is well. It also got rid of the vss code and a/t comm line code. I have a picture

Shannon and Ian 05-30-2016 01:08 PM


Originally Posted by BluRume (Post 8890140)
Before you go spending more money, TRY THIS...AND FIX IT FOR FREE.

BTW, I just replaced the VSS last week...which was a waste of time and money..speed-o would work for a minute, then right back to ZERO.

Okay, I read about tightening the screws on the back side of the panel, which I did. Then I realized what the problem was. The plastic-wrap 'board' on the back..(not sure of the official name), it carries current to each component with little strips of copper tape..its got a protective see-thru coating...except in the spots where the connections are made..you'll see. The problem is simple...

THE WASHERS ON THE SCREWS ARE TOO SMALL - SO THEY END UP SLIPPING THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC-WRAP BOARD THINGY.. THUS LOSING THE CONSTANT CONNECTION, CAUSING GAUGE FAILURE.

Go look in your 'junk drawer' for some little metal washers, slightly larger than those provided...add a washer to each screw...careful when screwing back in...don't wanna have 'em touching other 'lines' that go to other components, obviously..be sure of a good connection, and tighten. Hope I saved you $$$.. If so, buy some new shoes for a kid who's got it rough.

My first post here and I'm sure there'll be one or two just dying to school me on proper names, and such. So...I'm just saying - GO EASY...if I already knew it all, chances are I wouldn't be here in the first place.

Three years later and I still bring this thread up lol. I have been thinking about this for a while now , and decided to go to Home Depot and get some #5 washers and do the same thing . I hope this is a good fix. I noticed it did go behind the plastic sheet too.

nissan99 06-04-2016 10:58 AM

Ok I went to Home Depot and search for the number 5 washers and lowest the had were 6 ? So where you get the fives ? Thanks

Shannon and Ian 06-05-2016 06:08 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by nissan99 (Post 9112952)
Ok I went to Home Depot and search for the number 5 washers and lowest the had were 6 ? So where you get the fives ? Thanks

I just attached a photo


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