would like to attempt myself
08-09-2005, 05:09 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 40
would like to attempt myself
dealer wanted $350 to replace ball joint and control arm (since they are sold together) plus another $80 for an alignment.
does anyone know of a link to a write-up or of a 'how to' describing the removal and replacement of the ball joint and control arm?
or can anyone that has replaced this give some advice on what tools do i will need?
thanks for any advice
does anyone know of a link to a write-up or of a 'how to' describing the removal and replacement of the ball joint and control arm?
or can anyone that has replaced this give some advice on what tools do i will need?
thanks for any advice
08-09-2005, 07:43 AM
#2
it's pretty easy, the only special tool you'll need is a ball joint puller, which you can rent at any auto parts store. other than that, just pick up a repair manual for the exact process and torque specs.
08-09-2005, 10:11 AM
#3
How to:
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d801f5924.jsp
Other posts on LCA's
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=control+arm
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d801f5924.jsp
Other posts on LCA's
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=control+arm
08-09-2005, 11:27 AM
#5
Having just done with the help of another orger (Nick). - I can say one thing. In concept this is not hard. In reality, especially for people in the snow belt and in areas where a lot of road salt is used, be prepared for the worst. Cotter pins will be fused to the bolts/nuts, bushings won't slide off, endlinks and associated hardware will be rust-welded. PB Blaster won't even save you sometimes.
I would recommend buying parts off either Ebay or Brian here on the org(PM internetautomar and tell him njmodi sent you). You can get both control arms for 80 bucks a piece - the come with new ball-joints and bushings.
If you can find a local garage to do the work, I would recommend it. It is time consuming, and sometimes frustrating - just because it is supposed to be simple, but the rust makes things much harder.
Just my two cents from experience - having done this last weekend.
I would recommend buying parts off either Ebay or Brian here on the org(PM internetautomar and tell him njmodi sent you). You can get both control arms for 80 bucks a piece - the come with new ball-joints and bushings.
If you can find a local garage to do the work, I would recommend it. It is time consuming, and sometimes frustrating - just because it is supposed to be simple, but the rust makes things much harder.
Just my two cents from experience - having done this last weekend.
where were you guys when my thread was around.
link? (I'm still search deprived 
)
08-09-2005, 11:50 AM
#9
Originally Posted by MDeezy
My thread stated the same thing basically. Also in the FSM states to torque the bots with the vehicle lowered on the ground, is this whats needed to be done?
This is the tool needed right?
This is the tool needed right?
The bolts need to be torqued with the suspension loaded.
08-09-2005, 01:03 PM
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 40
many thanks to all that have responded with the great advice. special thanks to M oz. 555 for the links and to njmodi for recommending ebay & internetautomar. dealer wants $197 each.
i'll at least attempt this mod and if it looks like i am getting into it too deep, because of the rust issue, i will bail and hand it off to my mechanic
i'll at least attempt this mod and if it looks like i am getting into it too deep, because of the rust issue, i will bail and hand it off to my mechanic
08-09-2005, 01:11 PM
#14
Just pick up whole LCA from ebay, it will come with brand new bushings and balljoint
and have your local mechanic replace it for about 2 hours worth of labor per side.
if you want to DIY, air tools and lift are very helpfull, I would't even touch that job without lift and power tools.
if you don't have proper tools ( long breaker bar , 22 and 27 mm sockets and gear puller mentioned above ) don't even attempt it, simple job would turn into toyal PITA
and RUST is a major issue as well.
Me and njmodi will be replacing his passenger side LCA this weekend , i might snap few pics and do simple write up for LCA's
Nick.
and have your local mechanic replace it for about 2 hours worth of labor per side.
if you want to DIY, air tools and lift are very helpfull, I would't even touch that job without lift and power tools.
if you don't have proper tools ( long breaker bar , 22 and 27 mm sockets and gear puller mentioned above ) don't even attempt it, simple job would turn into toyal PITA
and RUST is a major issue as well.
Me and njmodi will be replacing his passenger side LCA this weekend , i might snap few pics and do simple write up for LCA's
Nick.
08-09-2005, 01:22 PM
#16
Disco Biscuit
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,791
You dont even need a balljoint puller. In order to pop the old one out of the socket, just pop the sides of the socket with a hammer and it will fall right out. When Bags and I canged one of mine, it took a lot longer than it should have, but if we had just followed the Haynes manual it would have taken about an hour at the most.....
08-09-2005, 01:33 PM
#18
MDeezy, where did you find this puller? , this is the one i want to pick up for future jobs.
Nick.
Nick.
Originally Posted by MDeezy
My thread stated the same thing basically. Also in the FSM states to torque the bots with the vehicle lowered on the ground, is this whats needed to be done?
This is the tool needed right?
This is the tool needed right?
08-09-2005, 02:13 PM
#19
Originally Posted by MDeezy
had a feeling I was off. Ever torque something down that high?
to everything Nick said. I couldn't have done it without him - infact he did all the hard stuff while I kept losing tools 
I would also recommend replacing the end-links - mine were rusted really badly and we had to bail on one side because we couldn't get the end-link off the LCA...
Nick - good idea on doing a write-up - we'll do it this weekend - how does Saturday 9am sound to you.
08-09-2005, 03:29 PM
#24
i'm looking forward to the writeup. my 96 has 125k miles on it and i think everything is still stock and needs replacement. I plan to do the LCA and bushings when i swap the suspension and springs in the coming months.
08-09-2005, 03:59 PM
#25
control arms are pretty simple, you gotta jack both sides up though to remove the sway bar from the control arm itself. you can buy a pitman rod to get the balljoint off, you dont care about damaging the old blaljoint youll never need it again. $15 at sears its also called a picklefork. Nick has an excellent writeup for the tie rods, you shoudl look into doing that while the car is up if you can find the Lisle tool.
08-10-2005, 07:24 AM
#26
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 40
2 more quick questions.
1) are these control arms any good? they only want $70 when the dealer charges $200. they say "they are high quality, OE Brand replacement K 9818 R, from Asia."
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lower...spagenameZWD1V
2) if i am replacing the whole control arm, do i still need the ball joint puller?
and yes five09, east side here.
1) are these control arms any good? they only want $70 when the dealer charges $200. they say "they are high quality, OE Brand replacement K 9818 R, from Asia."
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lower...spagenameZWD1V
2) if i am replacing the whole control arm, do i still need the ball joint puller?
and yes five09, east side here.
08-10-2005, 07:52 AM
#27
those ebay LCA's are made in Taiwan and honestly their quality is really good, The bushings look exactly the same as OEM and balljoints look good too. The fitment is perfect and honestly there is no point of wasting $180 for LCA from Nissan.
Only time will tell on how long they will last for, but if OEM ones are still holding up after 10 years and 120K , i'm expecting ones from ebay to last at least half of that.
No need for balljoint puller ( new one comes with balljoints) , but You'll need puller for disconnecting outer tie rod.
Nick.
Only time will tell on how long they will last for, but if OEM ones are still holding up after 10 years and 120K , i'm expecting ones from ebay to last at least half of that.
No need for balljoint puller ( new one comes with balljoints) , but You'll need puller for disconnecting outer tie rod.
Nick.
08-10-2005, 07:55 AM
#28
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