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New Hope For Subframe Connectors For 4th Gen Maximas. Who Wants A Set??

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Old 09-03-2005, 01:20 PM
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im down, as soon as I get my springs, and shocks though
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Old 09-03-2005, 01:52 PM
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I'm also interested but how much are we talking about again?
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Old 09-03-2005, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXDADDY98
I'm also interested but how much are we talking about again?
until they are actually made.. the best thing to do is assume between 200-250.. persoanlly.. id pay $500 for these things...
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Old 09-03-2005, 04:51 PM
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i did a quick count just to get an idea of the response, so i can relay back the amount of intrest.. this is what i came up with

4th gens that are seriously intrested, including myself - 19
5th gens - 3 (mabye you guys should start gettin a bigger buzz going )


the most aggraviation is knowing i can get these now, and having to still wait.. i dont know about some of you guys, but im ready to screw a couple 2x4's to the bottom of my car
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Old 09-03-2005, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntin' 101
id pay $500 for these things...


But don't tell them that.

The 5th gen guys need to wake up! Hell... everyone needs to wake up.

I think we need a GD once the design has been finished. To spread the word, you know? Even if they cost $250 to buy and $100 to have installed, it's hardly any money at all considering that it fixes the Max's biggest weakness...
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:04 PM
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Oh, there's definitely been interest in the 5th gen forum. In one of the longer threads, I counted about a dozen people who were also frustrated with WS and looking for an alternative supplier. Calls went out, including posts in the general forum looking for leads/welders, but nothing really came together. Then someone over there pointed out this thread.

I put the word out in the 5th gen forum (http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=4295195), so hopefully we'll start generating more interest and maybe find a donor 5th gen too.

Oh, and if there was ever a time to use the reputation points (remember those?), I'd say this would be it.
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Old 09-04-2005, 12:54 AM
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Man, you guys, tonight I rode shotgun in my friend's wimpy 2.5L 2002 Altima and G0DD@MNIT the chassis is so stiff compared to my 99 Max! It's amazingly stiff. He went over a really rough railroad crossing at about 25 MPH and it was nothing, whereas if I take it at over 5 MPH it feels like I'm damaging my car... I think right around 2000 all the car manufacturers wised up to the fact that a stiff chassis makes a tremendous difference in ride and handling, beyond comparison, so they put a lot of effort into designing better chassis thenceforth.

With SFCs, solidity can be ours!
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Old 09-04-2005, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Stuntin' 101
as far as that lower tie bar.. after being informed that they are designed and made by another org member with a good reputation, i have absolutely no intentions of persuing that. i am actually considering buying one from him myself for 2 reasons. 1- i hate that my car sounds like a shopping cart inside when im going over bumps (which there are no shortage of over here). 2- because it seems that alot of people intrested in getting sfc's also want, or already have that lower tie bar. i would hate to go as far as having these guys make a new sfc set, and not be able to use both. i think the only way for me to insure that is to actually have one installed on my car before design begins on the sfc.

also, i wanted to ask if you had any adverse effects after having that bar installed.. im looking to accomplish 2 things to my car. i want the ride in the car to be more comfortable. i dont really care about the handeling aspect of it. 2- i want to stop the ratteling and shaking. so my question is, did that bar help either, or has it made your car respond to the bumps and potholes worse? if it stiffens up the front of the car, but is making the wheels and tires "crash" harder in response to bumps i may stay away from it.
There are no adverse affects to installing the LTB, except for losing a bit of ground clearance. This is never a problem when going up driveways or bumps since the LTB is directly between the front wheels so it goes up and down with them. The only time I've ever scraped it is on a gravel road with a big hump of dirt between the two tracks; I dragged some rocks for a bit. Also if you drive over a large dead raccoon or something you might hit.

As far as handling or ride, it's just stiffening the very front of the chassis so it doesn't make anything harsher at all. It does stiffen things up but it is nowhere near what SFCs are supposed to do. I suspect the main problem with chassis flex is front to back. The LTB can only do side to side in front of the front wheels, hence it's not stiffening a whole lot. The main improvement is the front end feels like it should in turns.

Conclusion: LTB is good and has no real drawbacks, but SFCs are much more significant.

LTB on my car, viewed from front:


From rear:


Keep us updated, Stuntin'!
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Old 09-04-2005, 02:42 PM
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well ive located a car i can use. my sister is in the process of buying a new honda crv. she will more than likely have that by next weekend. her old car is paid up until the end of the month. so when she gets the new one, im gonna take the old one, and drop my car off with this guy the following weekend. (assuming she gets the car next weekend, and this will work with his schedule too). the max is being dropped off with my mechanic tuesday afternoon. its gettin new lca's, inner and outter tie rods, stabalizer links, and now new axles too. that will basically give the car a whole new front end. as soon as i get a definate date for the loaner car, i will give steve a call and set up a date.

i would have liked to get a ltb for the car before it goes in, but matt isnt answering emails i dont think they'll be enough time to get one shipped over here, and thats assuming he has one already made
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Old 09-05-2005, 07:49 AM
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loox like the stage1 sfc mount points are different than matt's stage2 ltb. i don't know if joining them would do anything. i think his ltb affects the front suspension more than the actual frame. sfcs stiffen the frame, and stage1 ltf ist for suspension stiffness. stage2 reinforces this because its a x-brace to mount to the underbody. anyway, i want stage2 sfc for my 5th gen. i think the x-brace would have to be a bolt on, to be able to do muffler work, etc.
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Old 09-05-2005, 09:30 AM
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i saw matt93se on this page earlier today, so he's around. hopefully you'll hear from him soon.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:08 AM
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One could fab something to fit between the end of the SFCs and my LTB, but I don't really think it would do much good over what's already there. If I ever get a new engine in my 3 gen, I'll take a look at it and see if there's a way I can do anything on that car. The 4 and 5 gens are different though, in that they actually have a true front subframe assembly. on the 3 gen, it's all part of the unibody structure.

Because of this, I think the 3 gens retain a lot of the road feel that is absent in the 4 and 5 gens, but they severely lack in overall chassis stiffness. I noted a HUGE improvement in my car with the SFCs. The A32 and A33 each make significant steps in the chassis stiffness department, but one of the major problems I see is the rear beam and all of the squishy rubber bushings everywhere in these cars to reduce NVH. I'm sure significant gains in handling and road feel can be made by stiffening/eliminating the subframe bushings and such. that's one of the reasons the stage II LTB makes such a huge improvement on these cars, because it uses the subframe mounts and the control arm gussets to tie the unibody and subframe together better. I would make them out of thicker tubing for more effectiveness if it wouldn't kill the ground clearance.


As for other people making a copy of my LTB, I'll just say this... Copy/recreate anyone else's stuff you want, but make sure I don't see any copies of my LTBs out there, or the copycats will be hearing from my lawyer. I'm all for people making new mods for these cars, and there are a lot of parts discussed with me that I don't have the time, money, and/or skills to develop. But don't step on the few good things I have been able to get done. Everything that I make is something completely original and I have taken many steps to make sure that I'm not competing with other members on the same products. Everything I've done with these cars was a first, so if you see something out there similar to what I've made, you can be rest assured it wasn't me trying to step on their toes. I would appreciate the same courtesy from other fabricators as well.

I see a LOT of people saying good words about me and I certainly appreciate everyone standing up for us little guys, but you can never be too careful with people who are willing to copycat others' hard work to make a buck.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:32 AM
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what is the time frame for you to have one shipped to me so it can be on my car before it goes in for fittment? i emailed you a few days ago through your website, and havent gotten a response.

there is no reason to make threats, i already said i would not approach the new vendor more than once when it was stated that blemcho was the workings of another org member. As far as the sfc go. this designer will basically have "creative freedom". warpspeed's design will be a starting point. they will know the best way to design these once they have a car to physically look at.

my intrest now, was to obtain a stage 2 LTB from you to assure that both products could be used together, and the new sfc can be designed "around" your LTB. so that the rear moutning points would be off limits for the new design, and mabye having either extensions on the rails, or another seperate peice available to tie the two products together if it was viable.

the car will be going in for fitment soon. mabye as soon as the next coming weekend. how long would it take for you to have a LTB on my doorstep? i would like to be able to make the two peices work in conjunction with one another as to preserve the current market for both.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:57 AM
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Whoa whoa, I really think you do not want an LTB on your car at the time of fitment of the SFCs! I know Matt engineered the LTB very well but that doesn't eliminate the possibility that having an LTB mounted on your particular Maxima might twist the chassis a tiny amount and thus mess up the fitment of the SFCs for the rest of us. Myself, I will be taking my LTB off before having the SFCs welded in. I suppose there's the possibility that the LTB won't fit on as easily afterward, but the LTB can be bent a bit.

This is more a matter of principle than anything else; as I said I doubt it would make a difference but since your car is the tester I think it should be stock underneath. And you're positive your car hasn't been in an accident, right?

Don't worry about interference between LTB and SFCs. Just make sure that the company designing the SFCs knows not to go in front of the front wheels. Beyond that is the subframe and that's the LTB territory. SFCs are for the unibody chassis. I think we should drop the idea of somehow connecting the SFCs to the LTB. Why?

1. A lot of people may want to install SFCs without an LTB
2. Like Matt, I don't think it will make any noticeable difference
3. It adds a lot more complexity to the design and fitment

Re number 2, let's put some stock in what Matt said; he knows the Maxima chassis better than anyone on the Org.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:58 AM
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Sorry I haven't gotten back to you- it sometimes takes me a few days to answer emails based on what I'm doing. some require more time to answer and etc. Currently, only have two unanswered emails about lower tie bars. One asking about one fitting on a 97, and another asking about red powdercoating, but they never stated what model they were looking at.

As for a 4th gen stage II, I have plenty in stock and can ship tomorrow via whatever carrier you like. to get to NY is roughly 3 days by UPS ground.


And I wasn't threatening you about the bars- merely stating I will take actions necessary to protect my company, investments, and products. There's a difference between "creative freedom" and purchasing someone else's parts to use as a basis to make an imitation. Talk to OBX and HotShot about that if you have any questions on the difference. They're in the middle of a mound of lawsuits because OBX copied Hot Shot's headers.
I'm simply stating that if I see someone make anything similar to my LTB, my lawyer will be contacting them. simple as that. I don't expect to have to go that far, but this is my food and shelter you're talking about. Without these parts sales, I don't eat--and I get REALLY mean when I don't have food on my table.
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:23 AM
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i havent read page two and 3.

im just curious about an average guestamate price range here.
i own a 97maxima se and i wanted these from warpspeed along time ago.. i still do but if its to pricy i might pass. give me a max amount willing to bring to the table at least :P i need to save now in order to purchase a pair if its in my price range.

thats all.. i dont care about time of release, im sure it would be faster than warpspeeds release.

anyways any price range will be great to help me in the direction im already spinning.
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:29 AM
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^^ Don't mess with Texas. Or Matt Blehm.
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mindlessoath
i havent read page two and 3.

im just curious about an average guestamate price range here.
i own a 97maxima se and i wanted these from warpspeed along time ago.. i still do but if its to pricy i might pass. give me a max amount willing to bring to the table at least :P i need to save now in order to purchase a pair if its in my price range.

thats all.. i dont care about time of release, im sure it would be faster than warpspeeds release.

anyways any price range will be great to help me in the direction im already spinning.
it would be safe to assume between 200 and 250
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by VQuick
Whoa whoa, I really think you do not want an LTB on your car at the time of fitment of the SFCs! I know Matt engineered the LTB very well but that doesn't eliminate the possibility that having an LTB mounted on your particular Maxima might twist the chassis a tiny amount and thus mess up the fitment of the SFCs for the rest of us.

thoughts on this matt?
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Old 09-05-2005, 12:28 PM
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it could go one way or the other. the LTB bolts right on to factory bolt holes and shouldn't tweak anything, but I've heard rumors of people not being able to get the camber to factory specs when they removed the tie bar and it was okay. said customer already had at least two major front end ($5000 and up) collisions on the car though, so there is no telling what parts of his chassis are tweaked.

On my car, I've had zero problems with it tweaking the chassis like that, even after bouncing the car off a couple curbs at texas world speedway. I had to remove one of my LTBs with a sawzall and sledge hammer. grabbed another one off the shelf and it slid right on. took it to the alignment shop, and NOTHING had moved since before the track day.

As for mounting the SFCs with the LTB on, I don't see why it would make a difference one way or the other. what WOULD make a difference is an unbalanced car (coilovers improperly set up, so there is always stress on the chassis), mismatched tires, a significant amount of weight in the car somewhere to cause additional stress on the chassis, accidents that coupld tweak the frame, or any other such reasons that there is stress in the chassis.

nonetheless, since these things weld on, often the worst that happens is that the LTBs don't fit flush with the unibody rails along the bottom of the car. they may be a slight bit off, but once they are welded to the chassis, there's no problem with them. they could be as much as 1/2" off and the benefits and effects would still be the same. just make DARN sure that the car is resting on all 4 wheels with no abnormal stresses when you weld the SFCs on. even jacking the car up, then lowering it down without rolling it back and forth is enough to tweak the chassis such that the doors won't close properly after SFCs are welded on. scary stuff.
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Old 09-05-2005, 12:32 PM
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have you read the post about the sfc mounted on the taurus sho? he mounted them with the car on a chasis lift. do u see any logic behind doing that
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Old 09-05-2005, 12:59 PM
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I think the point is that when you mount the SFCs, you want the frame to be exactly as it is when the car is in normal use. On most cars, you should be able to do it on a chassis lift with no problems, but it's best to do it with the car on the wheels just to be safe.

Am I right?
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Old 09-05-2005, 01:13 PM
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i would assume that also.. be this other guy is talkin about pre-loading his chassis, and some other crap.. im thinking thats what he used, cause thats what he had, and may have just come up with the entire theory to justify that.
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Old 09-05-2005, 01:58 PM
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sure.. if your door hinges are worn and sagging, the doors dont' close right. put it on a chassis lift and then weld the SFCs on and the chassis is tweaked the other way and the doors close smoothly. That's like sticking a band-aid over a crack in the Hoover Dam.

I highly recommend NOT doing it because we don't know what the chasis dynamics are of doing that. the car is designed by Nissan to be straight while it's sitting on all 4 wheels. when you jack it up and tweak the unibody, then weld things in place to hold it there, you're screwing with stuff that wasn't meant to be screwed with.
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Old 09-05-2005, 04:15 PM
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well anyway, seeing as how matt doesnt seem to think it would make any real difference of having the sfc mounted to his ltb. i think its best to just leave it off for fittment. this way, no one has any worries of anything moving around, and matt doesnt have any notions that im showing it to another vendor for reproduction. ill wait until everything is done with my car, and if im still looking to stiffen the front a lil i'll pick one up then.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:43 PM
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At this point, I think the single most important thing is to have the car on a lift where the car's tires are still supporting it. Since you're having this done by a company that seems to know what they're doing, I doubt you'll have to tell them to use a four-post lift, they'll just do it. Still, make sure for us.

I'd still prefer you not have an LTB installed at the time of fitment but that's up to since you're leading this. It probably would make no difference either way.

Thanks for your expertise, Matt, and thanks again for pursuing SFCs with a new company, Stuntin'!
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:31 PM
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well the car is with my mechanic now. new lca's, tie rods, stabalizer links, both axles, allignment, and wheel balancing. ill assume itll be done either tomorrow or the next day. hopefully before the weekend. theres a chance ill be able to drop my car off for the sfc if things work out
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Old 09-06-2005, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by VQuick
At this point, I think the single most important thing is to have the car on a lift where the car's tires are still supporting it. Since you're having this done by a company that seems to know what they're doing, I doubt you'll have to tell them to use a four-post lift, they'll just do it. Still, make sure for us.

This project makes me so excited, and I can understand VQuick's concern. I would love to do this right the first time, and I would love to buy one of these SFC's as soon as possible. I know you will be careful, and so will the company, but just a friendly reminder. Many have said before, we don't want this screwed up by a couple millimeters.

Anyway, keep us updated, and thanks again for all the hard work!

P.S. Can we find out who the mystery company is anytime soon?
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Old 09-07-2005, 04:28 AM
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im definitly interested, a price point at around 200-250 sounds great.
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Old 09-07-2005, 10:52 AM
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Well, my posts in the 5th gen forum hasn't quite generated the excitement I thought they would. (Selling was never my forte. ) Since I am definitely interested and am in PA anyway, I might consider volunteering my car. If I do, I would need a better idea of how long this would take and I would need a rental during that time. Enterprise quotes $170/week, before taxes and other charges. Does anybody have connections that can anybody hook me up for less or free? If not, I won't be able to do this.
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Old 09-08-2005, 06:06 PM
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should be gettin my car back tomorrow...... will also find out tomorrow about getting my loaner car.. im also going to email stevev just to keep in touch with him
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Old 09-08-2005, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntin' 101
should be gettin my car back tomorrow...... will also find out tomorrow about getting my loaner car.. im also going to email stevev just to keep in touch with him
When you e-mail him, could you ask him how long he needs to keep the car? I know he doesn't have a crystal ball, but there is a big difference between a couple days and a couple weeks. It would be great if he could nail down the time frame better. Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2005, 06:45 PM
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well.. i just emailed him to let him know that i should be able to get my car out to him on the 17th if that works for him.. ive arranged for another car, and a friend to take the drive out there with me.

bigel, he told me that he would need my car for 2 weeks.. enough time to design, fabricate, and fit. then he needs to build a jig to reproduce them, make a set off that jig, and then test the set made from that jig for fittment..
if all goes well, i will post the compnay name and contact info when my car is physically there.
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Old 09-08-2005, 06:50 PM
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so the gain would really be seen with a lowered vehicle, but whatabout a stock height vehicle?

i follow it as my partner has a camaro but it has so much done suspension wise at once that we couldnt point out hte benefit of just the one item. 200 im game 250, id have to think about funneling that to something else.
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:01 PM
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so.. the gain will be seen ON ANY UNI-BODY CAR.. honestly CANT, i really dont even care about the handeling improvments. like i said b4.. I , PERSONALLY, have two main goals to reach from these. 1- a more comfortable ride, cause my car rides like sh-t. 2- to help stop some of the rattles.. my car itself, has tons of movement in it, that needs to be stopped.. just to put it into prospective, i have foam in between the upper and lower sections of my back seat because the leather rubs up against each other and squeaks to high hell. thats from the car twisting..


a car with stock ride hight will DEFINATELY SEE MAJOR IMPORVMENTS. better handling, more solid ride, so on and so on... if your planning on lowering your car i suggest you do this first, so you dont have to deal with the issues alot of people experience.. read this thread.. half the people on here are lowered and looking to fix the after effects of what the tight suspension has done to their cars.. if your gonna do stuff to your car, do yourself a favor and start with giving your car the best foundation you can. ive spent hundreds, THOUSANDS actually, trying to correct things that werent dont rite in my car.. learn from that
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:44 PM
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Stuntin', forgive me if you answered this way back at the beginning, but can you verify that the company knows for sure that we want full SFCs here: "Stage 1" with beefy rails welded inside the frame rails, and "Stage 2" with diagonal (and straight across?) cross-bracing that bolts onto Stage 1.
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by VQuick
Stuntin', forgive me if you answered this way back at the beginning, but can you verify that the company knows for sure that we want full SFCs here: "Stage 1" with beefy rails welded inside the frame rails, and "Stage 2" with diagonal (and straight across?) cross-bracing that bolts onto Stage 1.
yes.........
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Old 09-08-2005, 08:35 PM
  #118  
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just got a response from steve. hes good to go for the 17th.. as long as the other car pulls through things sould go as planned
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Old 09-08-2005, 09:57 PM
  #119  
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I can't wait to get a hold of these. I'd say count me in if the price is right. I have GC's and i need anything i get get to make the ride more comfortable. Looks like a great mod! Thanks to the donor cars as well!
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Old 09-09-2005, 09:52 AM
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I probably already said this before but I'm in if it's around 250.
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