Why can't she just WORK!
 

Ok i toasted my trans, got it rebuilt for 700 bucks yadadadada. Well now there seems to be an electrical problem. So i talk to the guy who rebuilt it and tells me theres no power to check the power of the connectors(the car side) by buying a little light up volt tester. Well with the valve body connector(car side) im only getting two of them to light up my volt tester, the first two. The 3rd, 4th or 5th wont light up or im doing it wrong. Now i checked my transmission ecu codes and im tossing 6th/7th/10th.

6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
So for the transmission side the 3rd/4th/5th are overrun clutch , line pressure, and torque converter clutch solenoid valves. Now this seems to make sense to me that if the car is not powering those lines then they wouldnt run and i would toss those codes. Ive done all the install work my self and would like to finish this process my self.
There are two other connectors into the transmission one two sockets which one side lights up kinda bright also makes this clicking sound might be coming from the clutch inter lock fuse in front of battery?? and another 8 socket which only the first one lights up real bright.
Just read the ecu for codes 12-3,12-4,12-5 which states the same as the transmission ecu. Got 11-1 and 11-7 last night i know its a long post but i just wanted to get it all out. I need a beer. :flame:
So in the end is the power side connector bad or do i need a new valve body which would be cheaper then buying all the electronics new for the valve body.