Will92

Hi all. While I have the air box assembly removed to clean my throttle body plate, I decided this was a good time to flush out the clutch fluid on my 5 speed 95 with DOT 3 brake fluid as the lower bleeder screw is very acessible now. I followed the procedure in my FSM by having an assistant pump the clutch pedal a few times and hold it down while I opened the bleeder screw with a tight fitting hose attached and going to a jar. Fluid came out, I closed the bleeder, and then I had my assistant release pressure on the clutch pedal. However we noted the pedal remained at the floor but could be pulled back up for another cycle and could be pumped several times with normal return to up position each time getting ready for another cycle. Per the FSM, I alternated several times between the upper and lower bleeder screws but each time the pedal would always stay at the floor and had to be pulled up. I have not started the car as I need to put things back together, but is this normal? I looked in the stickies but nothing on flushing clutch fluid and nothing much on the search engine either. Fluid definitely did flow through the system as it gradually got cleaner and cleaner and I was sure to not let the reservoir fluid go below the Low line.

Does it make a difference how long you leave the bleeder open? Some sites I was looking at say just a second. Although I didn't have the hose submerged in brake fluid, I kept a careful eye on the clear tubing which was always partially filled with fluid so I'm confident air didn't get sucked back into the system to explain this.

TIA for any input.

Will92

Has no one here flushed/bleed their clutch system to be able to comment on their experience?

JvG

Many of us long time members have given up on the crazy, needlessly difficult to bleed clutch line system.

There is a one piece stainless steel clutch line available.

We disconnect the mess Nissan cursed us with.
The new clutch line is attached to the clutch master cylinder, then to the slave cylinder. Then we bleed it like we would a brake line. It's that easy.

JvG

Many of us long time members have given up on the crazy, needlessly difficult to bleed clutch line system.

There is a one piece stainless steel clutch line available.

We disconnect the mess Nissan cursed us with.
The new clutch line is attached to the clutch master cylinder, then to the slave cylinder. Then we bleed it like we would a brake line. It's that easy.

For example, go to Amazon . Enter 1995-1999 Nissan maxima one piece clutch line.
scroll down till you see All Star Performance clutch line kit. Notice that they come in different lengths.
pick one which looks like it would work. I'll check mine tomorrow to see what length it is.
Other members might know which length, or alternative solutions.

​​​​​

Will92

Thanks JvG. But with the one-piece line, do you still observe what I experienced in terms of pedal remaining at floor after the described sequence each cycle? What I'm trying to get at is if what I experienced is a manifestation of the clutch itself, or air in the system. Although the latter really seems unlikely to me as the system has never been opened (other than perhaps a flush by a dealership) since new. Do we have an over-center spring design and could this be the reason it behaves like this, and not because of air in the system?

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

I second what JvG said. Just get the SS line and save yourself the headache. The SS clutch line was literally the first "mod' I installed on my car and it was well worth the money.

To answer your question. Yes the clutch pedal will sit on the floor if there is too much air in the system. The only way I found to properly bleed the clutch with the ridiculous 2 bleeder system was to use a vacuum pump.

JvG

Yes.

I think it's designed that way so that one person can bleed it.

One pulls the pedal back up by hand or foot. Then press on the clutch normally. The clutch will feel normal as long as the bleeder valve is shut and all air is out of the system.