My clutch... toast or not?
11-29-2005, 08:59 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 731
My clutch... toast or not?
Lately I've been worried that my clutch needs replacement, my car:
'97 with 87k
I'm the second owner, first owner put on the first 48k, she claimed it was 90% city driving. I've put on the rest of the mileage, and I would say about 75% or more of my driving is hwy.
I rarely rev over 3500RPM, and I shift properly.
The reason I worry is that the grab point is very high on the pedal, and I've already bleed the clutch. I talked to a mechanic friend about it and he *thought* that my clutch wasnt adjustable of the top of his head, but now that I've learned that the pedal is indeed adjustable I'm starting to question whether or not my clutch is almost gone.
The clutch has NEVER slipped, it still grabs strong (albeit only at the top 1/2" of the pedal.) I have never smelled my clutch burning yet either. And now today, on my way to school I wanted to put it through some trials to see if it slipped or I could smell it burning, and a revved up to 5k in 1st and 2nd twice, the second time only moments before parking and I quickly got out and put my head under the car near the tranny and still no clutch burning smell.
Should I just adjust the pedal a bit and wait until the clutch starts to show signs of wear, i.e. slippage? From the way it is functioning mechanically, it appears that I have nothing to worry about for the time being; however please correct me if I'm wrong here.
From what I understand the OEM clutches generally last upwards of 100k into the 150k range, and I know that for atleast half the life of my clutch it has not been abused.
'97 with 87k
I'm the second owner, first owner put on the first 48k, she claimed it was 90% city driving. I've put on the rest of the mileage, and I would say about 75% or more of my driving is hwy.
I rarely rev over 3500RPM, and I shift properly.
The reason I worry is that the grab point is very high on the pedal, and I've already bleed the clutch. I talked to a mechanic friend about it and he *thought* that my clutch wasnt adjustable of the top of his head, but now that I've learned that the pedal is indeed adjustable I'm starting to question whether or not my clutch is almost gone.
The clutch has NEVER slipped, it still grabs strong (albeit only at the top 1/2" of the pedal.) I have never smelled my clutch burning yet either. And now today, on my way to school I wanted to put it through some trials to see if it slipped or I could smell it burning, and a revved up to 5k in 1st and 2nd twice, the second time only moments before parking and I quickly got out and put my head under the car near the tranny and still no clutch burning smell.
Should I just adjust the pedal a bit and wait until the clutch starts to show signs of wear, i.e. slippage? From the way it is functioning mechanically, it appears that I have nothing to worry about for the time being; however please correct me if I'm wrong here.
From what I understand the OEM clutches generally last upwards of 100k into the 150k range, and I know that for atleast half the life of my clutch it has not been abused.
11-29-2005, 09:03 AM
#2
Just adjust the grab point. Your clutch is not toast if its not slipping, chattering, etc.
Adjust the grab point and wait for the clutch to show signs its going out. Also unless you plan on doing the job yourself, it would be pretty pricey to change clutches just because the grab point is too high.
I believe the bleed may have just moved the grab point up some.
Adjust the grab point and wait for the clutch to show signs its going out. Also unless you plan on doing the job yourself, it would be pretty pricey to change clutches just because the grab point is too high.
I believe the bleed may have just moved the grab point up some.
11-29-2005, 09:28 AM
#4
its in the stickies, but I'll try to explain as best as I can.
look behind the clutch pedal. Find the shaft that goes into the firewall, that is what you'll need to rotate clockwise (lower grab point), or counter clockwise (higher grab point). Follow the shaft back toward you and you should find a large nut, loosen that so that you can rotate the shaft as needed. When your done rotating the shaft tighten the nut back and test your adjustments.
they say its pretty sensitive, so a half a turn should do wonders.
Its a small area, and (I willl be testing this tonight) but needle nose vice grips should help tremedously, unless you have really small hands, or tools.
Good Luck.
look behind the clutch pedal. Find the shaft that goes into the firewall, that is what you'll need to rotate clockwise (lower grab point), or counter clockwise (higher grab point). Follow the shaft back toward you and you should find a large nut, loosen that so that you can rotate the shaft as needed. When your done rotating the shaft tighten the nut back and test your adjustments.
they say its pretty sensitive, so a half a turn should do wonders.
Its a small area, and (I willl be testing this tonight) but needle nose vice grips should help tremedously, unless you have really small hands, or tools.
Good Luck.
11-29-2005, 10:26 AM
#6
Originally Posted by scrhale
I thought that if your grab point is low then you are showing signs of age not the other way around. The engagement point should go lower as the clutch gets older or so I thought.
11-29-2005, 12:05 PM
#7
Originally Posted by tomservo291
'97 with 87k
From what I understand the OEM clutches generally last upwards of 100k into the 150k range, and I know that for atleast half the life of my clutch it has not been abused.
From what I understand the OEM clutches generally last upwards of 100k into the 150k range, and I know that for atleast half the life of my clutch it has not been abused.
Mine a 97 with 212K on the original clutch and is just like new
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