why my idle hasn't droped to 650? I do know what I'm doing.
 

well aobut 2 weeks ago, I did the following:

spark plugs (copper from nissan dealer)
pvc valve
fuel filter 300z
Trottle Body cleaner
gas tank chevron (cleaner)
Seam foam

now because I cleaned my trottle there was the high RPM for a while, but it has been 2 weeks and almost 800 miles driven.

fixed some codes (0304, 0401)
and tried today I did the IAC (how too's)

"warm car
unplug TPS
fix RPM ->


Here is the problem.
I tighten the IAC fully with the TPS off, and the minimum RPM the car was at, was 1200rpm?
what else could it be?

BTW before all this, my idle was pefectly normal.

Try adjusting the little screw on your TB that controls how far your throttle plate closes.

If you are tlaking about the plastic screw. I did that. with the TPS unpluged, I tighten the screw to the max, and the RPM was still 1200.

If you are talking aobut the Accel/cruise cables, they are slightly lose (which is how they should be anyway.

do you think that I spray too much Trottle cleaner in the car, and that is still affecting the RPM.

Any residual TB cleaner should have burned off by now. Mine does that sometime, like the TB is stuck somewhere. I give it a little gas and the RPMs drop back to normal. I can't figure it out for the life of me as well and kind of just gave up on it.

when i adjust my idle with the plastic screw on the IACV i do not unplug anything. it always goes up and down as the car is idling when i turn the screw one way or another.

I have the same problem!

Subscribing in case someone comes through with a fix...

I'm talking about neither. There is a tiny metal screw on the TB, that controls how far the throttle plate can close. It is a tiny phillips head screw with a hex nut on it. Like 7 or 8mm nut. You move the screw in and out and it controls physically how far the throttle plate can move. It has nothing to do with the IACV and it's not the throttle cable/cruise cable tension adjustment either.

HOLY... Nealoc187. you are right, it all makes sence now.
when I was doing the trottle clean up. I spray some WD-40 on that screw and the nob it touches and kept pressing (tought it was rusted and stuck)
and I think I trier to finger tight that thing...


today is cold and dark out, but tomorrow I will fix that.

YOU ARE THE MAN...

BTW I will take pictures of it, for those who don't know what screw it is. (took me 2 minutes to find out.

Wil's95SE you are kind of wasting gasoline by letting it on a higher rpm...
(it is all aobut the MPG)

Just an FYI - that screw is not supposed to ever be adjusted. It has actually got some threadlocker on it (red stuff) if you look at it closely.

Most people are working around the actual problem (i.e. vacuum leaks, bad IACV, improperly set ECU screw, improperly set IACV screw)...

I'd have taken a picture for you (obviously you figured out what I meant now) but likewise it is cold and dark here right now heh.

yeah, but I did them all, and since my car was working fine just before i did all of those things to the car. I knew it had nothing to do with wires.

but thanks though, I will go with neals. sugestion, after all, he has being here longer then you njmodi. :) kidding.

ok, today I was able to fix the problem, bUt i just wanted to point this out.
In the name of GOD please allow my car to never ever never ever never ever again have a problem related to this small stupid screw in the trottle of my car.
I don't want to ever hear about this problem again.
What I PAIN IN THE A** to fix this, everything was going wrong.
I would talk aobut all the problems I faced while atempting to fix this, but I won't.
let's just say, I never felt like saying the F word with so much despise, for a inanimate object. (like the little stu[id screw. and the trottle)

:) BUt I fixed. and no I did not and will not take pictures of it.

tools that will be helpful.
long flat screw drive (hole gas cables up.)
shorter flat screw driver (ajust plastic screw)
thick screw driver (to hold the gas cables as far from working area)
2 philips screw driver (ajust small screw)
long nose pliers (pick stuff that falls)
and 3 other pliers (large, medium and small)
magnetic extension (pick up stuff)
removing the air box and all its componets is nessessary.

how too.
1 use the long screw driver to pull the small screw (spring) thingy out of the trottle ajusting place. use the thick screw drive and put it in between (somewhere) to hold that in place (you will understand)
2 user a small pliers to unscrew the 8 mm bolt fromt he screw thingy.
3 use the philips screw to screw in the screw (lower rpm) or out to (increase rpm)
tight it back in place and slowly release the thick screw driver from the place.

problems you can encounter.
1 the small screw section might bent out ward and the use of a large pliers is needed to ben it back in.
2 the small screw might bent down and completely miss the point it should be touching the metal plate. again use pliers
3. is the small screw misses the metal plate it will rolll to the behind of the plate. to remove it from there. remove the metal plate (tube with metal surface that contacts the small screw) used the long pliers and pull it back (carfeull with the trottle clables) and again put a lthink scre driver on top.
bending might occur at this place so the large pliers might be required (the medium pliers also work fine)
4 if the metal plate falls in the engine use the long reach pliers (the metal is non-magnetic)
5 use the magnetic for screws trhat might fall....

damn I hated today, but I'm happy witht he result. lately might car has done 18 MPG from a 24 MPG before the tune up. hopefully that will work better (1200rpms to 650rpms)