Water Pump and Timing Chain Tensioner...
 

Alright, I need to change the water pump, along with the timing chain tensioner. I've got a 95 Max, and lately ive been doing some research on the timing chain tensioner, and it seems that there are some issues that pop up when going about changing it for the 95/96 years.

I know that you can kill 2 birds with one stone on this job, and I know it wont be all that easy either, but based of directions on vqpower.com, the water pump replacement never mentions problems that ive found here on the forums. It talks about removing the tensioner when replacing the water pump. Easy enough, but some people are saying that you can't just replace the tensioner through that cheater hole, others say you can, and some say that their are "newer" types that dont fit through the cheater hole, and some also say that you have to replace more than just the tensioner.

So, any tips? Should I be ok if I go by what vqpower.com says? Or, am I going to run into the tensioner not being able to fit through the cheater hole when I replace it?

Oh yes, the tensioner will definitely fit in the hole. That is why the cover plate and access hole are there.

But the problem is that the slack side guide has been redesigned along with a new style tensioner. So there are no readily available replacement tensioners to put in the hole with the existing guide.

Unless of course you put the new guide in as well. This will require the timing cover to be completely removed. No way around it.

The guide isn't the problem, the actual tensioner is the problem with early 4th gens.
You should be just fine replacing only the tensioner.

Thats kinda what i was reading about too. So, a new tensioner should fit pretty easily then, without replacing the guide? With that said, where's the best place to pick up a new tensioner? Any online sites?

There is no place to readily obtain a NEW old-style tensioner because it has been redesigned. Any new tensioner that you may find will be the redesigned version that will not work with the existing guide.

That is unless you stumble upon an old design tensioner stashed away in somebody's parts bin.

:sprint: Good luck finding one

+1 The new tensioner is bigger, but it still fits. It angles upwards a bit, but still does the job...seems like I've said this 12 times already in the past week on here :russ: If you want to be a trailblazer, take the piston/spring/little plastic insert out of the tensioner. Peek inside and near the entrance you'll see an o-ring. Replace this & try your tensioner again. I don't know where to find o-rings here in Toronto, but I haven't looked around yet.
Post back with results, I'll try this for sure when time permits.

First pic is the original tensioner and original slack side chain guide.
Second pic is the replacement tensioner and original slack side chain guide.

You decide if you want to install like this. I wouldn't.

http://jime.homeip.net/maximase/Tensioner1.jpg
http://jime.homeip.net/maximase/Tensioner2.jpg

Those two pictures should be stickied to end this discussion forever.

Great pics Jime, that really shows (graphically;)), the new fitment. All I have to say is I weighed the options & costs involved. The new tensioner worked for me, but I'll be changing the o-ring in my original & sticking it back in there. Here's the pic:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ng-outline.jpg

i replaced both guide and tensioner about 3 weeks ago, and the job is a beotch. I'd rather do an engine swap than do this again.

Those are Great pics Jime. Really shows the increase in the body length of the tensioner. I had David B measure the one he had in stock (a New style one) and I was at my house measuring the one out of my car. The body of the new one is about 2 1/2" and the old style I believe was under 2 inches.

-matt

wow thats pretty crazy, so to replace both the guide and tensioner would require an engine removal, or what? This sucks..lol

It requires taking off the timing chain cover. It can be done in the car but its no picnic

-matt

Yep, saWeet pics of the fitting of the tensioner. I should be able to buy the o-rings at a local parts store if I wanted to go that path, right? Ill takle this job sooner or later. I just dont wanna take it to a mechanic and get raped up the *** for labor and end up not knowing what the hell he is doing.

i moved the engine over about 6 inches since because of the shortage of room on that side. I think you need the room to clean the entire gasket surface.

So replacing the O-ring will fix the problem, just like a new timing tensioner would? (new-old style)

anyone have pics of both tensioners? I have a brand new one I was going to put up for sale. I've had it for quite some time but not sure which style it is.

Let me take a pic of it and post it up.

examine the two, each are slightly different and similar. Top pic is original, bottom is the newer one.

Yeah, anybody know if replacing the o-ring on the original might work? Hell, i might just take the timing cover off and replace the whole thing (guide and tensioner) so I dont havta worry about it. At least then I can change my water pump at the same time, as well as learn how the engine works :drool1:

Ok, here's the deal.

I purchased just the tensioner in Jan for $86. Now I find out that it won't work with the slack side chain guide.

Yesterday I called up and ordered a slack side chain guide to match the tensioner that I had previously purchased. I went in today with the old tensioner, new tensioner and old slack side chain guide because I wanted to make sure I got the right slack side chain guide so it would match the new tensioner.

I asked them to open the box to verify and guess what, they now come as a set for $62.

So I asked for my $86 back for the old new tensioner. They won't take it back because I don't have the box and I have tried it on the car.

So I said, you sell me a tensioner that has been changed, didn't tell me and it won't fit with my old chain guide. Now I order a new chain guide and it comes with the tensioner and is cheaper and you won't refund my money. Kindly slip the useless tensioner up your Kazoooo and I hope it hurts.

Jime..I'm just east of t.o..I'd give you my guide or both for that matter...

IM fixing to get a 95 max with 112k miles on it.

When I do have to replace the tensioner along with the water pump, what exactly do I need to do to avoid pulling the whole cover off(I dont have the equipment to do this anyways).