dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

It only cost me $100 for the used rack, and probably could be done in 5-6 hours if I had stayed away from the exhaust stuff. So yeah, I'm quite happy with it. On a non-ABS car it's something worth doing if your front suspension, wheels, bearings, and linkage is tight but your handling is not.

Now if you're paying for labor I would still do it, but only if they have good reason to believe the rack is bad.

Dave

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

I got to do this.

JstAntrRoky

I know this thread is a little dated but I just have one question.

When you received and installed your new rack did you have to adjust the pinion rotating torque? Or did you just install the rack and all was good?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

You should not need to adjust the pinion tension. Bolt in and go.

Dave

19Maximus98

BTW, I priced this repair at the local mech. labor = $445, parts $700, total + $1145. talk about rip off

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for bumping this thread, I was looking for it. I need to replace my steering rack.

HarrisH

iTrader: (1)

My rack has 170K miles on it. It did leak a little bit during the winter. It does have play in it and I feel vibrations when I break.

Should I just go ahead and get a new rack? I have a '97 so will a '99 SE work fine?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I would change it and use a 99 rack.

Dave

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

97-99 SE use the same rack. I ordered 99se anyways just so I feel better about it haha.

HarrisH

iTrader: (1)

How would you say the car handles versus a lot of these newer cars?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I replaced the control arms, steering rack, sway bar bushings, and maybe a few other things around the same time. It is not as stiff as our Mazda6 or G35 but is alot more fun to drive. Response is much better than the GLE/GXE rack.

drewsblackmax

iTrader: (1)

(sorry it's so late in the thread but...) That's a good write up but you should never use ps and atf fluid as the same cause they aren't. I'm pretty sure something about the oil in the ATF fluid will break-down the rubber power steering lines. the lines will eventually melt from the inside out and start to sag, and all the broken down hose material will be floating through the sustem. this will also deteriorate the rubber seals causing a leaky rack.

heynow

iTrader: (1)

ummm....read the manual

our cars (and most japanese cars) require ATF in the PS system (not PS fluid)

pd1921

Has this problem carried over to the 5th generation too?

j2b4osan

just an fyi theres no need for the tierod tool just smack the cast piece that the tierod is snugged into and it will pop out. when I got my first job as a mech I did a asked if anyone had a tierod tool and they lughed at me and showed me the trick. you always ruin the boot on the tierod with the tool anyways.. good diy though.

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

hmm. so I'm assuming since the question was never answered in the thread nobody really knows. 99 rack work in a 95-96? I would think it would how big of a difference could there be?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

!!!!

I know the manual says to use ATF, so about 90k ago I filled the PS system with Mobil1 synthetic ATF. Within 30k I had failed the PS system and I see slight leakage all over the PS system low pressure hoses. It's almost like every line between the steering pump, reservoir, and cooler is ever-so-slowly sweating fluid. The high pressure hose isn't leaking yet but it might soon. I've now failed two PS racks. Your description totally matches my symptoms.

All because i spent an extra couple of bucks to try to maintain the PS system and put in longer-lasting fluid. Dangit.

It would seem that the solution is to buy a whole PS system off of a wrecked car or front clip.

Dave

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Thanks for this write-up. I might just go ahead and buy a new unit and replace the whole thing. Thanks.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Nissan says to use ATF. So what do we do? Infact MANY cars say to use ATF. Mine no longer sweats or leaks so it is working so far.

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

Kevlo,
Thanks for this great writeup, I have a leak in mine and both boots are toast. I found a new one for about $100 that someone is dumping off. I was wondering if any of you have found that power steering sealant is effective for a short time.
My symptoms are of course, leaking fluid, loose steering and a half empty reservoir. I totally took for granted that maximas use ps fluid instead of tranny fluid. I will definitely use that in the future.

NCSUpilot

Yes, it works. I have a 95 with a 99 rack.

Max-e-MO!

iTrader: (2)

Did I understand dgeesaman correctly? Can you remove the rack THROUGH the drivers side wheel well if you remove the spindle? Man if you can do it that way, the time saved not undoing the exhaust would be well worth the trouble (even with ABS).

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Dropping the exhaust can be easier if you can't loosen the axle bolt(i've broken a breaker bar )

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

No, you will still need to drop the exhaust to remove a heat shield and the passenger side rack mount bolts.

Dave

Max-e-MO!

iTrader: (2)

Agghhh!! I was hoping you wouldn't say that!! Thanks anyways, I'm trying to decide if it really worth the trouble, bought the car as a runabout for the wife, and started "playing" with it. Now I got an expensive repair that may not be all worth it, but it is a Maxima thought. . . .

dralucard

iTrader: (6)

stupid question, but has anyone tried to remove it from the top? i ask because i plan on doing my vc gaskets soon and want to know if anybody tried doing their rack at the same time. would it be easier to remove the rack with the intake out of the way? maybe removing the inner and outer tie rods would make it even easier?

Spyguy

iTrader: (1)

The link doesn't work anymore

Can you find another one?

pele

I recently changed my Rack and pinion... I slide it out the driver's side wheel well... I had to remove the sway bar and the important part is the passengers side PS line, the one closet to you when you look at it through the wheel well...Just loosen it and remove it from the hole..this will let it pass through the middle.. Also spin the rack slightly to the left to allow the spindle to come through the raised part of the well...The lines will seem tight but be a little forceful and it will come...But be too forceful though...Much easier than dropping all that other stuff...I have a 96 maxima GLE

FreeMax

Great thread. This is all good info for a newby Maxima owner. And mine having 148+k I can see some of these repairs in the future.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Wow, you could remove the rack without removing the lower cross member????

KevinR225

Hate to jump on an old thread, but I have a '99 GXE, and want to upgrade it to run and handle like the SE (or better). The springs ans struts are a no brainer, but is the ratio on the '99SE steering different? I've driven a '98 SE and it feels more responsive, but I don't know if that's just the suspension and tires/rims, or if the rack is different also.?
My current rack is fine and no leaks or looseness, so I have no real need to change it currently.

Also, does anyone know if the ECU is different GXE to SE?
I know things like cap on MPH etc, but are shift points and spark fuel any different? I know drivetrain is supposed to be the same on the GXE/GLS/SE, but everytime I drive an SE it seems more resposive and agressive compared to the GXE.

Finally, is there any difference in tranny gearing or torque converter (besides some having LSD)?

Thanks,

Kevin

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Kevlo911,

You quoted 2 years ago that the steering rack, 80-00386, you replaced back in 2006 was working fine with no leaks. Tell me how it stands today?

My leak is getting worse with this cold weather. The bushings on the left LCA I just replaced will not last long if I don't replace the steering rack. It's the same price today, $265, as it was back in 2006.

BlackDOut98LGE

I was actually just pricing parts today for a rack, tie-rods, control arms, & MOOG polyurethane sway bar ends. I was also looking for the sway bar itself & can't find one. Guess I'll check Pull-A-Part or is there any reason short of the sway bar being broken to replace it? Bigger/stronger sway bar on newer Maximas?

Unrelated to the steering system, but when the mechanic had my wheels off & I as looking at my control arm/tie rods I asked what a certain brake part was called & he said it was called the Stirrup & was rather expensive to replace. I've looked on Rock Auto & a bunch of other sites & can't seem to find any. Is the dealer the only place I could get one?

BlackDOut98LGE

I've got a '98 GXE. Do I buy outer Tie-rods for a '98 GXE when I get the '99 Rack or Tie-rods for a '99?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I'll take a look this weekend.


They are the same

Daniel1120

iTrader: (1)

Hey kevlo, i'd really appreciate a review on how your rack is holding up after all this time. Im buying a new one soon and am debating between the brand you used and the beck/arnley unit from rockauto.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I'll be getting the 80-00386 PS rack delivered next Tuesday. I paid $235 total ($185 + $50 core) for the rack. I challenged them to match a lower priced remanufactured rack I found on the internet so they knocked off $30. You can also get their rack for $15 less on ebay.

A few members stated they swivelled this rack thru the drivers wheel well. I was thinking of trying that but after degreasing and iinspecting the rack yesterday I decided just to drop the y-pipe and crossmember bar. Since the y-pipe is blocking the heat sheild for the rack mount on the right side there's no way around that. I installed a WS y-pipe last November so dropping that will be no problem. Raising the trans with a bottle jack then using two 17mm wrenches to remove a few nuts & bolts of the crossmember bar doesn't look too hard.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I installed the rack yesterday and got it aligned today. I have a lifetime alignment at this shop.

When I disconnected the return and pressure hoses I used brake hose plugs on the hoses and rack & pinion housing ports to keep the fluid from dripping on the subframe.

The return hose had a slow leak on it so I replaced the hose and the port it mounts onto. The return hose cost $3 at autozone. The port cost $9 at my local dealership: 49325-03E0A. That port comes with a new o-ring. This port has to be remounted on the refurbished rack. I also replaced the $2 o-ring on the pressure hose: 49745-01E00.

I got new OEM bushings on ebay for $8, and new beck/ arnely outer tie rods from another member for $20.

I dropped the WS y-pipe within minutes. The only struggle was dropping that highly rusted crossmember bar. I used a bottle jack with a peice of wood to raise the AT and engine.

Detergents in ATF is what probably caused those seals to deteriorate over time. It states on the back of Castrol High Mileage ATF that it adds extra detergents and seal conditioners. Stay away from high mileage ATFs. I used Amsoil synthetic ATF that cost $10.

After returning the rack and getting the core refund the total cost to installing a refurbished steering rack came to $237. During a free 100 point courtesy check at Nissan they estimated it would cost $2400 to fix this PS leak.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I'm still struggling with my gasket overhaul and power steering rack replacement. A project that was supposed to cost $100 is now costing me $1000+.

I changed the power steering rack, both cv axle shafts, all gaskets and seals on the engine (except head gaskets), changing 6 intake valve shims, XS shorty headers, WS ypipe, ES urethane bushings everywhere, ES motor mounts, water pump, oil pan gaskets, etc.

I'm now struggling with the XS header to WS Y pipe install, as the Ypipe is 1/2" too long (as another org member stated to be his problem as well). I am also struggling with changing the struts on two of the KSport coilovers that I have.

NABU6

iTrader: (9)

Any long term reviews on 80-00386 PS rack? Have to change mine out and curous about the longevity of this item.