Reasons for Maxi's Stalling and cheap solutions
 

I am new to maxi's and like soo many others on this board, My car is also stalling Randomly. Seems like a big problem with 4th generations. I searched the forum but didn't find a thread for resolve stalling issue cheaply.

One of the common suspect is MAF which is 400$+ item but I am wondering what are other things which can cause car to Stall basically what are things to try/clean before finally deciding to replace MAF.

And if someone were to replace MAF, Can a MAF from other models be used? or it has to be stock one.

hmm my max only stalls when first started for the day in the extreme (115F +) heat... where as my aunts 98 max stalls in the cold when my car is fine... I usually just blow it off as a character trait of my car!

The maf has to be from a 95-99 maxima or 96-99 i30. You can find them used for $50.

Nice Observation.
Unfortuantely my car doesn't show predictable pattern related with Temprature, It runs only when it wants to !! Stalls whenever it wants to.


Maf is one thing to look for, What else should I look,?

try adjusting idle speed?

Check for trouble codes if you haven't done it. Failing ECTS could be one of the reasons for random stalling.

I would go about checking the wiring and harnesses near the right front strut tower. If I remember correctly the wires bend at a sharp angle and are pron to disconnect. This can cause rough idle, hesitation, and stalling.

My car idels at about 1000 rpm. Is that too high? What should be correct idle rpm?

I have codes for TPS & Knoc Sensors


So far following suggestions
1) Try Adjusting Idle
2) Check for wire's break near right front sturt
3) Clogged PCV Valve
4) Clogged IAC Valve
5) Dirty MAF
6) Bad TPS

Last) Replace MAF


Is there any TSB on this or factory procedure to resolve this issue?

My 99 GLE idles at 650-700 rpm. 1K is way too high. I only see 1K idle when engine is cold. After the engine reaches working temp., it should drop below 0.7k.

If you get TPS and KS codes, just fix them. Check out the stickies "how to", there are detail descriptions.

If you do the KS, TPS, PCV, IAC and MAF, just don't forget to do a TB cleaning and re-grease the starter.

Good luck on debugging!:)

ETA: Don't forget to check spark plugs, coil packs and fuel injectors.

found on other boards
7) It sounds like the coils are failing. If you have an intermittent stalling condition it is usually related to electrical. first check the coil output and make sure that you are getting sufficient spark. If the coil checks out ok then I would be looking at the fuel pressure. Lastly, though it is rare, I would check the ignition relay and see that is is working properly.

8) You could have a bad fuel cap,
9) Bad 02 (oxygen) sensor
10) Throttle body is gummed up
11)Could have a dying fuel pump. (Fuel pressure should stay steady at just over 30 psi)
12) It could be an intermittent electronic ignition problem.
13) Hard starting, stalling, or stumbling under load could be caused by corrosion of the coolant sensor. (1995-96)

I think there are more ways your Maxima can be stalling than there are recipes for lasagna.

This is another post

JQ joelq Jul 31, 2005 09:20

Hi all,
For the last 5 weeks, I've had problems with stalling at idle and slight
hesitation at speed on my 97 Max SE (auto, 168k miles).
my fuel pressure was bleeding and replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
I still have the problem.
After taking my car to Firestone, I took the car to a Nissan-trained
mechanic, who also happens to be a friend of mine. He spent two solid
hours at my house diagnosing the problem. He double-checked the fuel
pressure - at idle, it would stay steady at just over 30 psi, running
higher when you open the throttle. He was able to reproduce the
stalling, and noticed that whenever it would stall, the fuel pressure
stayed steady at just over 30 psi, seeming to prove that fuel pressure
wasn't the cause of the stall.
Other tidbits for the detectives out there :) :
- engine would never stall at speed, but only as I come to a stop,
accelerate from a stop, or while stopped at a light. At speed, I might
feel a lurch or two, as if the engine were losing power briefly, then
catching itself. Engine stalls whether idling in Drive, Neutral, or Park.
- I seem to remember noticing this problem soon after filling-up at a
Mobil gas station. I have since run through that tank of gas, and have
now re-filled twice more.
- Whenever the engine would stall, it would usually restart right away,
but sometimes I'd have to "gun" the throttle a bit to get it to stay
running.
- Check Engine light is NOT lit, but the computer is giving a 0304 code,
indicating trouble with the knock sensor. The 2nd mechanic doubted that
this would be causing the stall as all the computer should do is retard
the throttle and not kill the engine altogether. Does that make sense?
- A couple times, while test driving with the 2nd mechanic, when the
engine started to hesitate in the process of stalling, we pushed the
(automatic) transmission to Neutral, but the engine still sputtered and
stalled. The mechanic seemed to think that this proved the transmission
likely wasn't causing the stalling. Also, the fact that the stalls occur
while in Park, Neutral, or Drive would seem to eliminate the A/T as the
culprit.
- Shortly after noticing this problem, I had a tune-up done, so new NGK
platinum spark plugs, new fuel filter, new air filter, and clean
throttle body. Also put in a new PCV 4 weeks ago.
- Also just put in a brand new battery about 4 weeks ago.
- Last week, I took apart and cleaned the IACV (following great
instructions from motorvate.ca). I even took apart the plastic valve and
verified that the plunger moved smoothly in and out while its drive
shaft was turned.
- Also last week, I adjusted the base idle up close to 1000 RPMs,
thinking it just needed to be bumped up. Problem is still here.
- The Firestone place also said that my fuel pump was weak. My friend
mechanic didn't think it could be the fuel pump as the fuel pressure
remained strong even after the engine stalled. Would the above symptoms
support a failing fuel pump? I have never replaced it in the 168k miles
that I've owned the car (I'm the original owner.) Is there a diagnostic
test? Is it easy to get to the fuel pump?
My friend mechanic concluded that there were no problems with the fuel
delivery, and no electrical issues as the engined seemed to run
perfectly except for the occasional stalls, and after two hours of
diagnosing, the best he could come up with was that I probably got bad gas.
Based on that, I put in two bottles of HEET when I filled up two tanks
ago. Problem is still here.

It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. On a Turbo'd car i would immediately say Boost leak on this one. Check your hoses and make sure that they are all on tight and not cracked or dry rotted.

***I understand that your car is not a Turbo. Vacuum is the opposit of Boost***

Good luck,

-Nate

My max stalled mostly when it was about going to a stop. No problem after replacing the engine coolant temperature sensor (~$12 at dealership) as suggested by other members in this forum. Yeah, the MAF is expensive. I haven't looked into the MAF as the ECTS seemed to solve the problem.

I have AT, My car stops immediatly when i take it out of Park to D or R.:faint:

Max96-97 I am near SFO, which Stealer you took car to?

I would:

1: replace KS just coz it's such a huge improvement for the price
2: fix the TPS code
3: clean the throttle body (see threads & how-to's)
4: wait a week or two to see if your idle speed settles down to 750ish

if you haven't changed the plugs, air filter & oil in a year or 3 then I'd do these as well.

check the battery.

IACV

clean if necessary.

Idle speed, Iavc, Maf, or a simply intake leak....

I'm also having stalling problems with my 95 Maxima, but only when I put it in reverse. no problem at all when slowing down or idling. I use the one foot brake one foot gas method, but that is just a band-aid. Do you think its the Thrtlle Body all gummed up or something else?

Bob

Easiest solutions...

(1) Replace PCV
(2) Run seafoam through brake booster ($5)
(3) Run a bottle of Chevron Techron 500 miles before next oil change ($6)
(4) Clean out throttle body ($4)

...so for a meager $15 that should get some of the more 'gunked-up' areas cleaned out.

Ok will do...need help locating TB...any pics or procedures anyone can share?

Bob

TB = throttle body?

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517

Ya forgot about cleaning the IACV!

Yes TB= Throttle Body...thanks for the link. This weekend's project awaits.

Bob