97 auto GLE wont shift pass 2nd Gear anyone?
 

Just like the title says my 97 max wont shift out of second gear. for it to shift from 1 to 2 i have to reach 4k rpms and then let go of the gas and then give it a little bit and it will shift to 2nd. from there no matter what i do it will not shift to 3rd or anyother. i notice that the Service Engine Soon light came on. is that the same as Check Engine Light? Thank you very much for your time and replys :)

Peter

anyone got any ideas? it feels like the engine is about to blow out... thanx

look around on here for the fsm, you can check your check-engine light with only a screwdriver, and you can check your transmission codes with ignition key and overdrive light, it's a ***** though. could very well be a speed sensor.

Edit: lol, ur still driving it like that?

I think that it's the TPS to know for sure, go to Autozone and have them check for codes (free). Report back with the code.

gle's don't have speed limiters...

if its having trouble shifting out of 1st too its might be the whole transmission. the mom suv did that also and the tranny needed to be replaced. but im no expert, i would bring it to a shop and have it checked for the check engine light

Check the check engine light yourself, save the .50 Dollars on gas getting to Autozone, mine is a few blocks away, yes, I waste 50 cents worth of gas getting there, because I have a heavy foot.

how would you check the light with yourself if you dont have a scanner?

here's the thread that tells you how to do it
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931

the first link in the the thread takes you here
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

Any update?

thanks, thats really helpfull!!

First, make sure your transmission oil is at the proper level. It has to be checked with the engine running, and at operating temperature.

Next, have the oil pressure checked on your transmission line.

A lack of oil pressure will cause the gears to hang.

If the oil pressure is OK, then the 2nd gear clutch inside the tranny has gone bad. It is taking too long to engage and failing to disengage.

Getting a shift kit for your existing tranny is the best way to go. I have already been down this road before, and I learned that rebuilding your existing tranny is a lot better than trying to buy a used one, rebuilt or not, since you never know what you are going to get.

At least with your existing tranny, you know exactly what you have, and if it is not totally screwed up inside, with metal pieces embedded everywhere, it is eminently rebuildable.

Even if you find a used one with a warranty, it can still go ba,d and then you'll have to wait while you send it back to whomever sold it to you and wait on a replacement.

the autos use a speed sensor, among other inputs, to determine shift points. i30's don't have speed limiters either :)

yeah check those codes and fluid and don't be driving it.

Hello!!

i checked the codes this afternoon and i got 11-07 & 03-04 11-07 is Undefined... could anyone tell me how to check the tranny fluid? or better yet how to change it? and what to buy and where from? if it could be at the store it would be even better. i dont want to wait for anything online. oh and im pretty sure is a GLE i mean it has got power everything, both driver and passanger power seats, garage remote, keyless entry, everything stock. sadly i have to drive the car is my only transportation....but i only drive it to and from work..... thank you for all your help guys

ps. should i cut the speed limiter wire? i know how to b/c i did it to my GXE about 4 years ago... thanx again :)

Peter

The tranny fluid has to be checked with the engine running. There are two markings on either side of the stick: one marked COLD and the other marked HOT. On either side, there are hatched etchings on the stick between two notches where the fluid level should be.

So, what is the difference between COLD and HOT?

COLD is when you first start the engine and let the temperature gauge go past the "C" marking. In other words, just when the engine reaches its minimum operating temperature (180 degrees I believe). Calling it a "COLD" reading is a bit of an oxymoron.

The HOT side is when the engine has been running for 1r minutes or more beyond its initial operating temperature. If you have been on the highway or running the engine hard, you will need to wait about 30 minutes for the temperature to come down and the fluid to settle.

The frecommended fluid is Nissan "D" available at the dealership. If you can afford it, buy Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF -- the difference is noticeable. You can buy Mobil 1 synthetic at Advance Auto, Autozone, or Napa.


Take out the dipstick, wipe it, and insert it all the way in. Then pull it out and verify that the fluid is in the hatched markings. Do two readings, just to make sure.

You might wish to consider having a tranny flush done at a repair shop instead of just doing a drain. If you have a high mileage car, you may want to skip the flush and just do the tranny drain.

Unless you're very flexible, You may have trouble reaching the drain plug. I which case, I recommend raising the front of your car up I use a set of inexpensive ramps and wheel chocks.

The drain plug is located on the right side of tranny and can easily be un screwed using a 1/2 inch socket wrench adapter. Be careful because the fluid will be very hot an run out very fast at a steep angle. Place a large catch pan under the drain plug. when no more fluid comes out, replace the plug.

You'll need about 4 1/2 quarts of ATF. Add 4 quarts first and then check the level. Add more if necessary.