I'm going to do some maintenance (first time) some questions before i go about it
 

Tomorrow I plan on cleaning throttle body, maf sensor, cleaning iacv valve, changing oil, and wash/wax.

I plan on following motorvate for cleaning throttle body, and changing engine oil.
Would I be able to get to the MAF while cleaning the throttle body or would I have to remove the throttle body to get to it?
For changing engine oil would I need to lift the car or could i leave it on the ground and be able to get to everything?
Also what oil would you guys recommend?
Where do you guys store/recylce the used oil?

For IACV valve cleaning where is it located and how would i go about removing it?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=clean+IACV
will be the thread i'll be referencing to.

Tools neccesary would only be 10, 12, and 14mm sockets right?

iacv:
http://forum.maxima.org/showpost.php...27&postcount=2

oil:
look around the fluid and lube subforum and you'll find some good info.
no, you don't HAVE to life your car to change the oil, you could just remove the pass. side wheel and the plastic cover thats behind it

storing the oil, just use a bucket or old milk jug, juice jug, something like that.
you can recycle the oil at just about any parts store, schucks i know takes it

MAF:
you'll have to remove the whole upper air box assembly to get at the TB. so clean it while you have all that off. just use some MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner spray it all around in there

yea, you'll only need those size sockets along with Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

alright thanks i'll take a look in that forum. Looks like i'll have a fun/busy day tomorrow

edit: also would i be able to purchase a nissan oem oil filter at autozone? or would they only carry fram filters?

go to pepboys and get an oil collector. also take the used oil back there.

try and use MAF cleaner if you can find it but if not use electrical cleaner (not TB cleaner) for the MAF.

Use TB cleaner on the TB and IAC Valve. lol

dont use quick engine flushes. if you want to flush, hold off on the oil change and doan auto-rx treatment. if not use a good full synthetic oil since those are great cleaners also. Mobil 1, German Castrol (0w30 only that says "european formula" on the bottle) found only at autozone, or Amsoil oil. M1 filters are the best (Fram are horrible).

you will have to jack the car up (not very high but use a jack stand).

if you are lowered...like me I have to lift my car to change my oil..and it takes more than 1 person to lift it because I cant get the jack under it. 1 person pulls up on the fender well and I slide the jack under! lol.

I would lift the car to change the oil. having ramps really makes it easier.

:sprint: Fortunately, changing oil on the 4th Gen is very easy. I would use Castrol GTX and NOT a Fram oil filter.

Go to a stealership to get an OEM oil filter. Alternatively a WIX from NAPA is a good alternative, as is Purolator PureOne.

If you are going to start doing your own maintenance, buy yourself a Haynes manual. They're under $20 and will pay dividends over time.

:sprint: I've never needed to lift my car to change the oil tho. Just so he knows you don't have to lift the car. Does make it a little easier since you can then take the wheel off.

what is wrong with fram oil filters?

the are crap. small amount of poor filtering media. M1 are usually considered the best, most effecient and largest capacity. Purolator pure one's are good, and surprisingly walmart's supertech are good too.

Here are other simple maintenance things you can get done in a day's work if you need them..

- Radiator coolant change (20$) check motorvate - it's really simple, I did it this morning
- Fuel filter: DYI on the org, a bit tricky but worth it to improve MPG (15$)
- Air filter: while you're there (20$)
- Spark plugs: NGK plats (50$)

would lifting only the front end of the car tilt the car in a way so that only not all the oil would drain out?

Also check the condition of the power steering fluid. Brake fluid should also be flushed and replaced periodically as it is hygroscopic, ie. it retains moisture.

Is the car manual or automatic? If the former, when was the transaxle gear oil last replaced? If the latter, when was the last time the transmission fluid was replaced or flushed and replaced?

shampoo the interior, compound the exterior, mount balance and rotate your tires, change your struts............................. awww fk it go buy a new car.

the drain plug is at the rear of the pan so tilting the front only would actually aid in draining.

brake fluid, transmission fluid, spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter was done 4k miles ago. For a coolant change distilled water is recommended correct? what should the approximate mixture ratio be (i live in new jersey)

Yes, distilled water is recommended. You can usually find it where you'll buy the coolant. The recommended mixture is usually 50/50.

Have fun!

you can always buy premixed 50/50. you can also mix 75% water to be easier on seals and increase cooling effeciency since it doesnt get that cold in NJ. throw in a bottle of Prestone Flush before drining to rinse out any rust etc. the stuff really works well.

Premixed are rip offs

gallon of pure coolant: 12$
gallon of distilled water: 1$
gallon of premixted coolant (50/50): 12$

isn't that funny?

so, how did it go? Were you able to get everything done?

When was the fuel filter last replaced? It should be replaced every 30K.

Have you ever replaced the PCV valve. If it still rattles if you remove it and shake it, it is good to go. If not, it is toast.

I found that all the oil did NOT drain out when my car was raised. The ONLY reason why I lifted my car is that my car is so low the drain pan I have does not fit underneath the car. After I got a jack under my car, I then lowered it down so that the pan was as close to the drain pan as I could get it. The drain plug is on the side of the pan.

Regardless, you don't have to remove your wheel to change your oil. Turn the steering wheel full lock to the left, remove the splash shield enough to pull out of the way, and you have full access to both the drain plug and oil filter.

matts95max -- a tip for the fellow lowered maxima owner, drive your car up on 2x4's, it will give you the jack clearance you need to raise the car. I saw this in a thread on here, but unfortunately don't have a link.

I've never lifted my car or done anything with the tire or sheild to change the oil.

I just park the car on flat ground and slide myself under the car remove the drain plug, once it stops draining (into a catch pan) i reach around behind the sheild (from under the car) and unscrew the oil filter. I pour one litre of mobile 1 5w-30 fully synthetic through to flush anything out. I screw the new oil filter on (Valvoline, made by Purolator) screw the drain plug back in and fill with Mobile 1 5w-30 fully synthetic.

I understand lifting u'r car to fit under it if u'r lowered, but i see no reason to do anything with the wheel or the sheilds.

Turning your wheel full lock just gives more room, and is something that is VERY easy to do after coming back from a warm up run, or pulling the car out of the garage...etc. Once you take one or two screws away from the shield, and bend it out, the oil filter is in plain view. That's all, just for conveniece.