What's the difference btw 96 & 99?
 

Heres the situation, I have a stock 96 GLE, my friend has a stock 99 GXE. We both have Stillen CAI, which I know does 0 for you as far as HP gain. I noticed a crappy aftermarket muffler on my 96 he has stock standard on his 99. My car is Cali his is Fed again if thats even an issue. He also has one of those "speed chips", but I dont believe in those. Now.......

Heres my problem, on a 1/4 mile race, he blows me by at least 8 ft ahaed of me after that Im on his ars. My car for some reason when I floor it bogs down while his and I've switched cars with him to see, does not. Its killin me to find out what the problem could be, any insight would much be appreciated. His bragging rights are killing me!!!

Ask him if he has a TS or JTW chip? If so, you are SOL.

What is the mileage on each vehicle? When was the 96 last serviced, eg. plugs, PCV valve, air filter, fuel filter, Chevron Techron, oil change & filter?

You reminded me he has Bosch platinum+4, I just have B platinum. Im stupid :tard: I forgot to mention I also have had knock sensor code + evap codes + o2 rr which(I replaced already) code, but even after Ive cleared them still no gain. He does not have any codes.

He has 160K, I have 135K, I recently changed plugs this summer as well as air and fuel filters, we both use Super Tech oil....

I recently bought a filler neck(should resolve my evap issue), and have the knock sensor its too cold to work on them now. But why is it bogged down? Is it the codes? And if it is the chip it would make that much of a difference.?

Are you saying you are using Bosch plugs as well? They are the wrong plugs for the VQ engine.

Stick with the NGK OEM laser platinum plugs, or if money is an issue go with the NGK V-power copper plugs.

Start with taking care of the code issues you have.

Also, what grade gas do you both use?

A TS or JWT chip would make a big difference, but this would have cost him several hundred bucks.

It's not the chip, that's for sure. Take care of your codes, then do a rematch. Until then, your wasting your time trying to figure it out.

Yours is Cali spec and his is Fed spec. Your car has more emission control on it (your Y-pipe), that is why. Get rid of all those Bosch plugs and get NGK. I know for a fact that those plugs (Bosch) are bad. You do not 'need platinum' or 'iridium' either, coppers work just fine. You will just have to change them in a year compared to a few years as for with the iridium or platinum.

His speed chip... I have heard they do not do anything, unless it is a legit JWT, Technosquare, or other REPUTABLE company who makes ECU specifically for our cars. I do not know for sure though if the 'speed chips' do/ do not work, or for that matter, screw up your car.

You wanna beat him, buy a y-pipe, it will help. You will still have to get a Cali spec one, but it will help greatly. Get a new catalytic converter too. After 100,000 miles, they start to become plugged. From you stating you had a knock sensor code, I'd say your Cat is plugged, that is 95% of the time why the KS goes bad. The heat from a plugged converter. It will only glow when it is finally completely plugged. Just tell the muffler shop or part store you want a "Universal Catalytic Conv." (2-1/4") They are around $60, you DO NOT WANT A HIGH FLOW ONE FROM EBAY. They are straight through and will create more noise, have NO back pressure, and you will not pass an emission test.

Finally, get those codes fixed (I mean fix the problems kicking the codes.) AND GET RID OF THOSE BOSCH PLUGS!

I figured my Cali spec would have more restrictions, but not make that much of one in a max2max race. As for codes its too cold to work on the car right now, I will take it to a mech for the filler neck and price labor for the knock sensor.

I will def get NGK platinum this spring and poss. look into a budget y and b and maybe a better muffler with better flow, I have a strong feeling the aftermarket one thats on it(came with the car) is bad.

As for the chip, I dont believe in them, when I was 17 I had a 86 Iroc Z28 I street raced her stock, decided to try a chip(in the ECU) and it didnt do anything except for blowing my ECU. He has a garbage chip that is connected to something in the engine bay, I dont know if thats how they do it now, I doubt hes getting me on take off with that thing.

a cali spec 96 is a fed spec 99 pretty much. All 96-98s are the same emissions....

its the knock sensor, you loose so much timing in safe mode its not even funny.

if you have a stick, try puttin the pedal down after 3100 rpms, youll notice a huge difference in power and pull. if you have an auto, i feel bad because that must be pretty boring and i cant help you there.

how do you tell if its cali spec, i think mine is not shure tho

which the model for the NGK plugs (for a 99?)

i have a 96 gxe auto(hoping 5 spd at end of summer) how do i know if its cali or fed spec

To tell Cali or Federal emission cars, The easiest way is to look under the hood, in between the fan and the valve cover on the engine.

Cali spec cars have for (4) sensor plugs sticking up on top of the coolant bypass pipes (those two corroded metal pipes spanning across engine compartment - Pass side to DR side.)

The Federal spec cars have three (3) plugs. The plugs are grey and square, you cannot miss them.

What they are is O2 plugs, the Cali cars have one more O2 sensor. The y-pipe for the Cali cars keep one pre-cat installed whereas the Fed cars eliminate the pre-cats altogether.

Both are auto....

I figured it could be the knock sensor, cause it retards the engine to think you have 89 octane, but why does my engine bog down when I floor it? is the ks the reason?.......


I found out with my fuel filler neck on my 96 trying to buy one that looked like it. I have 2 add'l lines on mine.(Hold up I just found out I could be wrong on this)

IIRC they didnt make a cali spec before 1999. Thats when the California emissions laws came into affect.

OK, even though were going away from my original question which is cool, the fuel filler neck that I need I just found out they made 3 for my model year)pre 9/96), and when I searched it I found a page on Autozones website that lists it as a Cali spec.

Am I missing something?

you've got to fix the knock sensor first, like the other's have stated.

Beyond that, if they are both automatics, there may just be some car to car variablity-performance wise. I have at least 3 old car and drivers that tested automatic, two 96s and a 97 or 98 Maximas, and they all had different zero to sixties.

then again, if you think you car is bogging down and not acting right, definitely try those tuneup ideas.

What part of Cleveland are you in? I am up there every weekend, so if you ever need a hand, I can help. I only live an hour away. In the summer, I am up there even more. Usually just to cruise, hang out and goto Poobahs (on Detroit). Just let me know. Also, your avatar is Bad#$$, LOVE IT!!
-Sean

Yah I think if I tune it up the way you guys suggested and take care of my problems, I will have a better chance.



Im in the west side by West Park, I also have a business in the east side off of e55, thanks for the offer if I ever need help with something I cant handle Ill make sure and hit you up.

Thats an alien smokin a hookah!! Something I do everyday!!

To add - Unfortunately I do not know about the filler necks.
Definately, hit me up if you ever need help.

Oh yeah, I stop at DayStar and Blue Moon too....
:doublethu :Party:

So why is it my filler neck is listed under a Cali spec, or am I an Unlucky f*ck who got an in between model, they changed it like 5 times, 6 different models, and I cant nail down where to get one.

the difference is 3

sorry, couldn't resist, I'm bored at work

95 came in fed spec and cali spec. Fed spec was more like the 3rd gen Max with mechanical EVAP including the charcoal canister where the ABS now comes (under the brake booster). The 95 cali spec is the same as all 96-98's. Call them cali, call them fed, they all have the same setup (map/boost sensor, 3 solenoids: EVAP, EGR, MAP; electric EVAP, charcoal canister behind the driver rear wheel, . 99's have a completely redesigned emissions setup including swirl valves and electric egr. 99's are pretty much the most restrictive setup and carrying all that extra weight to boot.

Be glad that you don't have an I30. Even the VIN could not tell you the specs on your car. My 97 I30 was put together with 95, 96, and 97 Maxima and Infiniti parts, with no rhyme or reason to them.

My EVAP system was a total mess.

Well I figure the best route is to sell these 2 I have recoupe my $ and buy the dealer one for 150 off the web. If anybody is interested let me know.

Haha. I'm on the West Side too. :)

a bad knock sensor will deffinetly slow you down because the ecu dosen't allow the engine to put out the power it can to avoid damaging it. I was running with a bad knock sensor for a few months and anfter changing it I noticed a huge diffrence, it was like whe I first got the car.

So basically what everyone wants to tell you is simply do this: SWAP THE AUTO TRANNY FOR A MANUAL! Automatics are great up until 2nd or 3rd gear(I drove my friend's mom's maxima and I could definately tell that basically 4 speed automatic transmissions don't belong on any car...ever.).

Hey actually I think Ive seen your car, I remember those plates!!

I can feel the difference, the light turned off recently(I think ice sealed the vapor leak) and the car felt stronger, big difference in power.

Haha good stuff. Xtr3m3X for life. :) Yea... I'm all over the Cleveland area. Lol. my girlfriend lives in Sheffield... and my best friend in Macedonia. Haha. And I live right in between in Lakewood. Lol.

If I spot you again ill give you a honk, to let you know its me, Ill be in a black max comin up on your 9 (a*s) really fast!!!