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-   -   Both of my Rear calipers are F'ed up... (https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/386222-both-my-rear-calipers-fed-up.html)

1Phat Max Mar 5, 2007 07:09 AM

Both of my Rear calipers are F'ed up...
 
So I was changing my pads and rotors for all 4 sides past weekend, I do the front 2 with no problems but ones i start doing the rears, i cannot compress the caliper so it'll fit on the brake no matter how hard i tried. I had loaned a tool from Autozone. I tried applying brakes and also tried doing hand brake and it doesnt do anything. I tried the other side and same thing. I guess I need to replace both of them. Is this a known isssue with 95 maxima's? Where is the cheapest place to get these things? Thanks in advance.

TunerMaxima3000 Mar 5, 2007 07:21 AM

You arent trying to spin it back in with the brakes on are you? post is a little confusing.

1Phat Max Mar 5, 2007 07:23 AM

No, i wasnt trying to spin it back with brakes on. I was trying to push it back in with loaned tool from autozone. The same way i did the fronts. Is this not the correct method?

JPMax Mar 5, 2007 07:26 AM

The rears need to be screwed back in using a little cube shaped tool.

It's common on 4th gen rear brake calipers. They tend to go bad after a few years.
Dumb screw-in design.

I've had to change both of mine over the years.

They run about $75-90 each rebuilt after core return.

You can find them at your local Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts store.

TunerMaxima3000 Mar 5, 2007 07:28 AM

to be completely honest i havent done the brakes on the max yet, will be soon, but I'm pretty sure they are the same setup as my 240, fron is a piston that you simply squeeze/push back in, the rear however you actually need to TURN it back in, not sure which way but would assume to the right. if you look at the front caliper does the cylinder look like an 'O' and the rear looks more sealed with 'grooves' or 'notches'?
I'll pull up the manual and check if someone cant answer for sure.

MDeezy Mar 5, 2007 07:29 AM

you were using the device to screw the piston in correct? they dont push in like the front calipers.

If you need to replace them, your local auto store and get some rebuilt ones. or check junk yard/car-part.com/classifieds

1Phat Max Mar 5, 2007 07:37 AM


Originally Posted by MDeezy
you were using the device to screw the piston in correct? they dont push in like the front calipers.

If you need to replace them, your local auto store and get some rebuilt ones. or check junk yard/car-part.com/classifieds

Yea, i was trying to push them back in, i guess i need to take the wheel off and see if i can turn them back in.

MDeezy Mar 5, 2007 07:44 AM


Originally Posted by 1Phat Max
Yea, i was trying to push them back in, i guess i need to take the wheel off and see if i can turn them back in.

They don't push in, if you look at the caliper you'll see you'll need to inset the appropriate tool and turn the piston clock wise to retract it. Some have used a needle nose pliers and had success. You can Rent a rear caliper kit from Autozone, they'll give you your money back upon return. They also have the little cube that will fit onto a 3/8th ratchet, should be about $5+ at auto store.

TunerMaxima3000 Mar 5, 2007 07:46 AM

yup theres the problem
mine are seizing up im gonna have to rebuild them soon, just waiting for the brakes to get low so I dont pull it all apart for nothing(not that its a big job)
and on my 240 I just used jaw pliers to turn the caliper back in, a little trickier but cheaper than renting. (yeah I'm cheap)

1Phat Max Mar 5, 2007 08:20 AM

I wonder if i f'ed it up trying too hard to sqeeze them in instead of turning..

maximus_pr Mar 5, 2007 08:27 AM

this is one of the tool available to screw in the rear caliper pistons
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12h...liper-tool.JPG
you need a ratchet with this, pretty simple

maximus_pr Mar 5, 2007 08:45 AM


Originally Posted by 1Phat Max
I wonder if i f'ed it up trying too hard to sqeeze them in instead of turning..

you may damage the thread if you press it with a tool instead of screwing the piston also check for a stuck piston every time i change pads i check for bad seals since repairing calipers is easy and kits only cost like $20-$25

http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/0717932.jpg

1Phat Max Mar 5, 2007 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by maximus_pr
you may damage the thread if you press it with a tool instead of screwing the piston also check for a stuck piston every time i change pads i check for bad seals since repairing calipers is easy and kits only cost like $20-$25

Nice. I need more info on how to repair it. Where do they sell the kits?

maximus_pr Mar 5, 2007 08:54 AM

this write up is great don't tell exactly how to repair them but is very simple
once caliper is out of the car just unscrew the piston out and replace seals some kits even comes with instructions

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f5965.jsp

some pistons tend to rust where they make contact with the caliper body if you take piston out try sanding the rust to give piston a smooth surface that way piston glides freely

also try to use some kind of grease on the parking brake cable

buzpuck11 Mar 5, 2007 01:46 PM

Rebuilt rear loaded calipers with all hardware and pads are at Autozone for about $130 after core. Got them on my car now.

LILMAN Mar 5, 2007 04:45 PM


Originally Posted by buzpuck11
Rebuilt loaded calipers with all hardware and pads are at Autozone for about $130 after core. Got them on my car now.

Is that the price for the rear calipers and pads also or only the front? I gotta do my *** ends over.

buzpuck11 Mar 5, 2007 04:51 PM

For the rear calipers and pads.

cam_honestiam Mar 11, 2007 07:14 PM

I bought brand new calipers (all 4 - Dorman brand) and they are so close to stock it's hard to tell them apart. They were a good deal, and starting new offers more hope for a good build and long life. We shall see...


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