1996maxgxe

1996 MAXIMA GXE - CHANGED REAR CALIPERS. BLED BRAKES. PEDAL STILL MUSHY.
Changed front pads and flushed brake fluid in January 2016. Brakes seemed to work great after that. Brake light came on in July 2016. Topped it off. Level went down again. Found brake fluid leak in rear calipers. Changed them both out with REMAN WEAREVERs from Advance Auto. Bled the brakes [Driver Front / Passenger Rear / Passenger Front / Driver Rear] but the pedal was low and mushy. Found that both new calipers were leaking around the piston seals. So I replaced both rears AGAIN with Cardones from NAPA. Bled brakes again. But they are still very mushy. I am testing the brakes while the car is still up on 4 jacks stands and the engine running. That saves me putting the wheels back on and taking them off over and over.
1- Is that a valid test of the brake pedal?
2- Why can't I seem to get the mushiness out of it?
3- Is something else going on here?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Having the car up in the air or on the ground, engine running or engine off is the same.

If there is a mushiness, there is either air in the system or the master cylinder seals are leaking. If you ran the master cylinder out of fluid, there is air trapped in there and the master cylinder needs to be bled as a separate process performed before bleeding the lines to the wheel cylinders.

As for the sequence of bleeding the wheel cylinders, Nissan recommends a sequence the is different from what you did. Personally, I don't think it matters all that much, but maybe in this case it does. the Nissan sequence is Right rear brake, Left front brake, Left rear brake, Right front brake.

Brakes chapter of service manual - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1996/BR.pdf

Mrazouan

Installing an Avital 2101L Keyless entry on a 97 Max GXE. I'm having trouble locate the dome light circuit/wire for the dome light supervision on the keyless entry.

From what I've searched online, both in this forum, and outside, I'm unable to find information on this issue. I've also looked into the FSM in the EL section and couldn't find it in the Interior Lamp section. Hoping that someone who has installed an aftermarket keyless entry to help here.

Thanks,

Edit: Some people recommend that I use the door trigger instead, but I don't quite understand the reasoning behind this. If all else fails I'll just do the keyless without the domelight supervision (althought it would be a nice thing to have on the car).

Edit 2: For those that are having similar issue as mine. I have circumvented (more like macgyvered) this issue by using the door lock. Not as intuitive but if you notice, the dome light turns on when you unlock the driver's side door.

STILL LOOKING FOR OTHER SUGGESTIONS IF you have better advice

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

In the Nissan FSM, Nissan calls it the "Interior Lamp" just to make it harder to find. The dome lamp can be found listed under Interior lamp Control on page 292.

Here is a link the section EL in case you need it:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/EL.pdf

What you will see is that like most light bulbs in the car, it has 12 volts on it all the time. Turning the lamp on is done by putting ground to the lamp.

The dome light is connected to the BCM, which turns the lamp on and off for what ever reason. In the case of the door locks, the lock communicated to the BCM and the BCM turns on the dome light.

Hope this helps you.

Mrazouan

Hello Dennis, sorry to bother you again. I can't seem to find the parking light wire for the maxima. Looking online and confirmed on the EL section that the wire is R/G and am wondering if it's acceptable to link it out of the fuse box.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That wire would be OK. There are several possibilities and the only difference is which one do you feel is easier to get to.

Mrazouan

Ended up going with the wire that connects to the harness on the steering column; R/G. Now dealing with trunk release and getting a relay on it.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the car was built with the Nissan keyless entry where you have the keychain remote, then there is a relay all ready installed for that. See page 309 in the EL section for part location, page 249 for schematic.

Swilson

Hi everyone can any tell me if the Greddy revolution RS universal exhaust muffler will bit and sound well on my 01 Nissan Maxima SE

sdunker

Your 97 Nissan requires a double pulse to unlock. Most Avitals come default sending a single pulse to unlock. You need to reprogram the Avital for that feature.

96MaximaCF

I need help PLEASE...96 Maxims won't start. I can turn the key to add and hear the fuel pump engage but when you finish turning the starter isn't engaging. I got a 12v push button to bypass everything but going from positive on the battery to switch and then from solenoid to switch only makes a spinning noise. Thanks

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Iirc there's one more ground you'll need to connect attached to the starter.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't really understand what you did, but here is a thread for how to diagnose a problem like yours.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...rt-thread.html

ahuther19

Hey guys, just picked up a 99 Max GLE with 90k miles on it. Love the car, however not long after changing the starter, it began throwing the dreaded P1320. I also will occasionally get a misfire that goes away quickly when I crank it up now. Any help guys?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

This is a tough code to resolve. A lot of times people have to replace all the ignition coils, which is kind of expensive. Sometimes it is the crankshaft sensor (POS) on the flywheel. The service manual lists other things as well, but the 2 I mentioned are the most likely.

From the service manual:

Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
Condenser
Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)

the list is not in any kind of order.

Link to the service manual - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/

see page 415 in section EC.

missmymuscle

Hi, my '98 Marlboro edition has 200 k miles, and runs like a champ except for this weird, nonsensical issue. If I run my A/C I notice chugging. Not so much at the time I run it, but for days after without running the A/C. It took a while for me to figure out why my car would chug, stutter, run a little rough, or "miss," slightly, but enough to activate the check engine light. My boyfriend thinks I am crazy, and does not understand why I will not run it when it is HOT outside. The check engine light goes off after driving it long enough to reset (30 nonstop miles, or a couple of freeway trips equating to 30 miles each, approx.).
I know I am not crazy, but can any one explain, or give reason to why this happens? Is it just coincidence? I had a bad coil, but replaced it, but am fearful of running the A/C, because my car is running so well and smooth. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't really know what the problem is, but since the check engine light is coming on, stop by and auto parts store when the light is on and ask them to read the codes. It is a free service, but not in California and Maine where it is illegal.

The codes will gvie us a clue.

missmymuscle

I, do live in CA, but I am fortunate enough to obtain trouble codes Number 5 valve was bad, or missing, meaning the coil(s) and plugs needed replacing. This is when I first purchased the car, and trusting the seller went to have it "smogged," (his responsibility, but blah blah). Coils are expensive! So, I just replaced the plugs to satisfy the DMV, and everything was copasetic...The car ran fine, until dun, dun, dun using the A/C. I am not one to accept an ill performing vehicle (even in its slightest), when it is fixable (preferably, a "do-it-yourself," do it right, save a lot of cash job).

Running the trouble codes, again the knock sensor is what came up, but amazingly, ta-dah, ever since I made the A/C determination, and do not use it, ever, changed the one bad coil the service engine light has not come on, and does not "chug." It is in the 90's here in So. Cal, and is hard to resist turning on the A/C.

missmymuscle

Oh, one more question, and do not think I am a complete moron for asking. Apparently, the Marlboro editions are fully equipped, but I do not know what the three buttons do on the driver side sun visor, or the intended function. Does anyone know what those buttons do?

Junebug1701

I've never seen a Marlboro edition--did it come with a cigarette lighter?

The 3 buttons are called Homelink. You can program them to open 3 different garage doors or remote gates. You can also program them to operate various modules that turn on your porch lights, coffee maker, or what have you.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

+1 on Homelink buttons. But the Homelink protocol has changed over time - at least twice - and they won't work with today's Homelink openers. Your car isn't compatible with a garage door opener made after something like 2000.

1996maxgxe

1996 Maxima GXE intermittently loses power and stalls. Seems to work for a day or so, then starts stalling. Once it starts, it keeps stalling. It is not throwing any codes. Cleaned out IACV valve. Problem persisted. Then I noticed a black hose coming up from somewhere low and U turning right by the transmission dip stick, and pointing back down. But it goes nowhere. In other words, it is just sitting there open. Is that normal or is this a broken vacuum hose of some kind?

1996maxgxe

More information. When it stalls it sometimes puts out very smelly exhaust.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I'll start with the easy part - the hose. It is the auto transmission breather hose. Not connected to anything is the way it should be.

The stalling part is more difficult. It sounds like a bad MAF sensor. The bad news is the there are no tests that you can do for this. It is a gut feeling/guesswork thing. You can try unplugging the MAF and the engine should start and idle. but you can't drive the car like this because when you put the car in gear, the engine will die.

1996maxgxe

Thanks DennisMik. You put my mind at ease with the breather hose.
The MAF voltage between pin 1 and ground reads as follows:
Ignition ON. Engine OFF --- 0.3V (spec is less than 1.0V)
Engine Idling --- 1.3V (spec is 1.0-1.7V)
Engine at 2500rpm --- ~2.1V (1.5-2.1V) (tach is bouncy so guessed at the 2500rpm)
Engine at 4000rpm --- ~2.5V (spec is linear increase in voltage)
So I think the MAF is behaving OK. The car did stall while I was testing and the voltages stayed within spec throughout.

A friend of mine mentioned the CAM sensor which reminded me that I had put in a new one 3 months ago. The old one was leaking oil. I ordered an O-Ring. The dealer shipped the whole sensor and told me to keep it. So I installed it. Yesterday I went back to the old CAM sensor and lo and behold. The car ran for 25 minutes without a stall!. It does hesitate on initial acceleration sometimes, but it hasn't stalled or lost drastic power while accelerating since I went back to the old CAM sensor. I do need to drive it a few more days before calling this problem solved because it was intermittent.

1996maxgxe

It just stalled again :-(
Could the MAF sensor give "normal" voltage readings and still be defective?
I would buy one and see if it helps but locally they cost over $100 and the auto parts store wont take back electronic devices.
How would you recommend debugging this problem? It usually starts stalling after it warms up, and then it can stall often (or not). What can I check as it stalls which would tell me what is wrong? By the way, it seems to throw a KNOCK SENSOR code but I have read that that could be anything.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

What you can hopefully do is go to a junkyard and get MAF from there for a lot less money. Guys have claimed to pay only $15 for them. As I said before, I don't know how you can diagnose a MAF other than swap it out. But one thing to check for is the flexible tube that is between the MAF and the throttle body. If this tube is cracked, it lets in air that is not metered by the MAF and the air/fuel mixture cannot be accurately controlled by the ECU.

Any time you have a problem with the engine, you will get the knock sensor code. That is because the engine is not running properly and knocking. Fix the other problems and the knock sensor code goes away too. About the only way a knock sensor goes bad is that the plastic shell it is in cracks and this allows the internal connection to loosen up.

Younggarbage

Just picked up my maxima a few days ago and was looking into getting some lowering springs. The ones I was looking at have a 2.25" front drop and 2" rear drop. I wanted to use the stock struts because they a pretty much brand new. I measured the wheel gap(does have 18" wheels) and its about 3.25" in the front and 3" in the back. Would it be possible to run that setup?

John Scheet

I lost the only key to my 1998 Nissan maxima some time ago and the dealership won't make a key cuz they say its too old. So I had a buddy drill into the ignition and start it with a screwdriver. It ran for one day and now the security light is flashing and the car won't start. Any suggestions would be great

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

In the 1998, the flashing security light means that the car alarm is active. If this is the case, the starter is disabled and won't crank the engine. But if the alarm system is active, that means that the horns would honk and the headlights would flash when the door was opened.

First, I would try another Nissan dealer for a key. I never heard of this too old stuff. Nissan started keeping the key codes during the 1997 model, so it is available. If you can't get a key from Nissan, go to a local locksmith. They can make a key for the car without the code. But they need to have the car. You can take the lock cylinder out of the glove box or the trunk and take it to them.

Then you will have to get another ignition switch and take it to a locksmith and have them re-key it so that you will have only one key.

A word of advice for the future - ALWAYS have a spare key at home. This has probably taught you this. And also remember that a local locksmith can do more for you than the dealer. Plus it will be much cheaper.

KSSilence

G'Day from Down Under :P,

So Yet another Maxima.org Newbie here, Anyhow, i have searched everywhere including google, and here at Maxima.org for where to locate the OBD2 port on my AUS 95 A32 Maxima, and so far it is no where to be seen, all i have found is the Consult Port in the typical Fusebox Spot.

As i Understand it, ALL "US" Spec Maxima's have the Port, but it would appear that "AU" Spec 95's Do not (Despite some people saying that "ALL" A32's have it).


So far i have checked all the common spots including the Left (Passenger) AND Right (Driver) Kick Panels, checked the panels on both sides of the ECU behind the center console, and given a very good look up under the dash, and it just doesnt seem to exist at all.

All the FSM's i have found indicate it should be right next to the ECU in the footwell for the passanger, but all these FSM's assume its an LHD car, which its not because in Aus, our cars are RHD :P.

Is there any other Aussie 95 Max Owner here that can provide some feedback on where this thing might be hidden and if one can be wired in if not provided by the factory (provided the ECU supports it) ?

Does anyone have a FSM for a RHD "AU" Spec A32?

Does anyone know if there is an Upgrade path available to get a port if it doesnt exist such as putting in a 96 ECU and wiring up a port?.

The car is an Automatic as well if that makes any difference.

Thanks,
Alex.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The OBD II port for the US Maximas is by the ECU in the right side (Passenger side in the US) foot well by the ECU as you have read. I'm guessing that you have removed the plastic panel that covers the end of the ECU where the connector is and looked in there, although removing the cover is not necessary on US cars. Did you look from the left side foot well?

I don't know about adding a connector. I have never seen a 95 to examine where the wires come from.

In South Africa, the 1995 Maxima was a 2 generation Maxima, which was a different body and everything compared to the US 1995 Maxima. The 2nd generation Maxima was not OBD II.

KSSilence

Yeh, Removed both Panels from both footwells from where the ECU is, and Nuddah!, spent a good hour looking for it.

Is there a surefire way to determine if an AU 95 max is a Gen 2 or 3?

Buildplate date is 08/95, when i get home i could maybe grab the vin and try to decode that?


EDIT:... According to Wikipedia, what i have is a Nissan Cefiro A32 which is Called a "Maxima" here in Australia, and yes it does seem to look different but its noted that it shares the same engine as it s North american Counterpart.

Now in the US, an A32 is a fourth Gen, but not sure about a Cefiro / AU Maxima.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Cefiro

Thats the Article, and the Model i have falls under the A32 Designation (its a 30G which is pretty similar to a 30J)

EDIT 2:... According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan...2.80.931999.29 The 4th Gen US Maxima was Sold as a A32 Cefiro in Japan, and that indirectly indicates than the AU Exported Version (Called a Maxima) is basically a RHD Version of a 4th gen?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

In the US, the A32 is the 4th gen and has the VQ30 engine. The 3rd gen was the J30 and used either the VG30 or VE30 engine. The body style changes with the generation designation. If your 1995 looks like the 1996 cars and has the VQ30 engine, then I think you have a 4th generation.

The looks of your Maxima is different from ours in certain details such as the grille, hood and the tail lights, but the basic body outline/shape is the same. Your car more closely resembles the US Infinity luxury model. But the infinity model did not appear until the 1996 model.

But I don't know why you don't have the OBD II connector. It may have something to do with the laws of the country. While OBD II was not required on US cars until the 1996 model, Nissan built the 1995 to those standards in order to have all 4th generation cars the same.

Whether you could install a 1996 ECU in your car is something else I don't know. If your car doesn't have all the sensors needed to supply data to the 1996 ECU, it won't work.

I don't have any more ideas about this, sorry.

Ontheg

1996 Maxima
200,000+ miles
5 speed manual

Recent repairs:
Spark plugs
Ignition coil boots
Fuel pump and filter
Cam position sensor
Front Crank position sensor

Ok so I bought this car a few weeks ago. It was running fine. My wife drove the car to the store and back and when I went to drive it next it wouldn't start. I thought it was the battery so I jumped it off, accidentally connecting the battery backwards + to - and - to +. Now it just turns over forever and will never start. I checked the coils for spark and none of them are getting spark.

I have checked the codes and I'll post them as soon as I get home. Any idea what's going on? Any suggestions will be a help.

Thanks, Tyler.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There a lot of possibilities, most of them dealing with blown fuses. Start checking ALL the fuses, the ones under the hood and the ones in the dashboard.

Also, without trying to start the car, turn the ignition key to the ON position and try turning on things like the wipers, heater fan, radio, etc - everything. If you find something that doesn't work, that will help isolate the problem.

Ontheg

All fuses are good. And the headlights, radio and all that work. Also changed the crankshaft position sensor POS this afternoon. Now I'm getting a slow turnover like the battery is dead.

sanmel1029

PLEASE HELP!!!!
Hello all! I have a 2004 NISSAN MAXIMA 3.5 SE

So yesterday I cranked her up and there was a loud squealing noise, a little smoke and the serpentine belt broke. Belt appeared to be almost new. Couple days ago I noticed that the A/C compressor pulley/clutch was not spinning correctly (belt was going 900mph and pulley was trying to spin but it wasn't going very fast AT ALL.) Got the belt replaced this morning. We drover a mile down the road, we in the store to return the tool I rented (that did not work since my pulley isn't spring tension) cranked it to come back home and got the same loud squealing, smoking and of course, the belt broke again. So here's the question---- Can I bypass the A/C compressor pulley all together (with a shorter belt) or purchase just the clutch or do I have to replace the compressor itself?
TIA guys (and gals, too)

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you can bypass the a/c compressor. You need a belt that is 920mm or 36.25 inches (or close to it).

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The crankshaft sensor is needed to cause the spark for the plugs, but it has nothing to do with the starter and cranking the engine over.

It is possible the battery got damaged by the short and isn't capable of putting out full power. Get your voltmeter and check the voltage. With the engine off the battery should read around 12.5 volts. While the engine is cranking, it shouldn't go lower than about 11 volts. When the engine is running, the voltage should be between 14 and 14.5.

If the engine off voltage reading is below 12 volts, it just might be discharged from all the cranking you are doing. But it could also be be bad.

If the battery is good, slow cranking could be corroded battery cables. These cables have a nasty habit of corroding where the wire goes into the terminal clamp. Wiggling/twisting the wire might mage a better, temporary connection that would prove the point.

Slow cranking could also be a bad starter, but in your case I kind of doubt that.