For those who have done the TC tensioner
 

I've planning to replace the TC tensioner on my '99 to alleviate the cold start rattle. I came across the following service bulliten on the nissan service tech website...

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/nissa...RefNo=NTB00054

has anyone seen this gasket?? in all the photos I've seen of the TC tensioner job I've not seen this gasket they speak of.

I'm guessing I can just replace the gasket an not the entire TC tensioner. anyone have a part # for it???

i though the new gasket was just the new o-ring from the new tensioner; and just swap into ur old one.

Which vehicles does the TSB apply to?


No A32 tensioner has ever had a gasket to my knowledge. The VQ35 tensioners, however, have one built in. Perhaps it's referring to those motors?

the TSB specifically applies to the 97-99 model years.

I think zeeman is right. they must be talking about the o-ring that others with the old style tensioner have swapped out instead of putting the new elongated tensioners in - I wish someone would've posted a picture of this o-ring and plunger disassembled (I still don't know what the o-ring looks like or where it goes).

I just called a local dealer and the parts guy said you could just order the "gasket" for $9, but he couldn't describe it to me (there was no picture of it on his computer). he also didn't know if it came with a new tensioner - but it must, I think.

here's another little tidbit...

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/nissa...efNo=FC9808023

I think what they're talking about is the plunger sticking in the depressed position, allowing enough slack for the chain to skip a tooth. I didn't think this was possible with the guide installed, but apparently it is.

lesson -- be very careful when messing around with the tensioner. I'm thinking it's best not to turn the crank at all with the thing removed. and I'm also thinking there's some risk of skipping a tooth upon startup after the job even if the tensioner is not stuck in the retracted position.

haha, I'll vouch for that comment, lols. I don't know how I feel about filling my tensioner up with vasoline though........

That's weird they keep mentioning 'gasket' in that tsb, I'm sure they are not referring to gasket or o-ring, but instead the little round plastic thingy that goes inside the spring, it is a vlave to stop oil from draining out of the tensionor. If you have a '99 you should have this little plastic valve inside if I recall correctly, and you have the newer style guide/tensioner as well, so you won't have to bother swapping o-rings, just install the entire new tensionor assembly after making a quick comparison of the old and new.

I hope this is not too late. I took some pics of the tensioner:

o-ring location:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ng-outline.jpg

tensioner kit:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...onersguide.jpg

thanks for the pics.

ok this is interesting. now I think the TSB is referring to a different gasket. it describes the gasket as fitting between the tensioner body and the TC case. but the o-ring seals around the plunger (or at least that's what I surmise from the above photo).

I'm thinking nissan came up with a entirely new gasket that was not original equipment. I already ordered the new TC tensioner from gerrand's. when it arrives I'll see if it has the gasket. if not, I'll order one from a local dealer.

I just recently ordered a tensioner from the dealer for an '01 and there is no gasket

Keep us updated, today I put in back my old-style tensioner that I had replaced with the newer one a couple of years ago. I got a replacement o-ring from my mechanic friend, he had a bunch of them, I took one that matched in size. Remember to race the car at no load @ 2000rpms for a few minutes to bleed air out as per FSM. Mine rattled like a mofo then got all quiet when I dropped the revs.

UPDATE:

the tensioner "gasket" is indeed different from the plunger O-ring.

here's the full TSB I referred to:
http://putstuff.putfile.com/94232/1354011
(sorry, I don't know a better way to host PDFs)

and here's the tensioner gasket referenced in the TSB (along side my new tensioner)...
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1...rgasketaj5.jpg

hopefully I'll get these installed within the next week and be rid of my cold start TC rattle for good!

so you will be installing the new tensioner plus the gasket? Dont they not align correctly with our old guides?

I have a 99. it came stock with the new tensioner/guide.

what really gets me about all this is how cheap/simple the fix is. a $7 gasket, and 0.6 hrs labor (per the Nissan TSB).

but a year ago when I went to the dealer to complain about the noise they told me $1700. when I told them the tensioner could be removed through the inspection hole the Master Tech butted in and said "no it can't. the new tensioner requires removal of the entire TC case". he was obviously thinking about the 95-96 tensioner TSB and didn't even know about the one I found. a year later I ordered the gasket from the same dealer, and at first they tried to tell me there was no such gasket. when I produced the TSB they reluctantly placed a special order for it, but again told me that the entire TC case had to be removed to install it, even though the TSB clearly states otherwise. I almost want to take pictures of the job just to prove them wrong.

haha lucky u have 99 guess the 95-96'ers are stuck with the rattle. oh well.

wtf, what's the part # for that gasket??, I want that, why didn't my new dek tensioner come with that, lol, I ordered one for a dek figuring any and all updates would be straight with that one. Arrghh.

the PN for the gasket is listed in the TSB above.

so I got around to doing the job this afternoon. let me say, it was much more of a PITA than I was expecting. given some of the write ups I expected it to be a breeze.

the hardest part was trying to install the tensioner, gasket, and screws as a single set -- you're doing it blind, in a tight awkward space, with the force of the chain & guide in your way & pressing hard against you. talk about a Chinese puzzle.

after 30 minutes of cuss words and wrenched hands I realized I had to devise a way to keep the chain/guide fully retracted so as to make space for the tensioner & free up my hands to work the puzzle.

solution: take a suitable size allen wrench, put a piece of plastic tubing over the short end to protect internal engine parts. then pull back the guide as far as it will go and use the wrench to keep it "propped up" by sticking it between the end of the guide and an internal TC cover lobe, with the opposite end of the wrench anchored against a solid surface. obviously for this to work the wrench has to be the exact right length for the given set of solid surfaces in the vicinity of the tensioner.

here's a pic...
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/9...sioner2ja3.jpg

the "opposing solid surface" is a brake line I think.

and here's the installed tensioner. I must say I was happy with how clean & varnish free the inside of my TC case is...
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/9...sioner1jx2.jpg

all told it took me a good 3 hours from start to finish. this included draining & moving the PS reservoir & scraping every last bit of old gasket off the TC case.

to summarize, a few tips for others that plan to do this...
1) move the PS hose (by disconnecting the reservoir from the cooler line, draining the reservoir, and moving it and the thick PS hose out of the way). this will give you tons more room to work with.

2) use a pin the secure the plunger. remove the top tensioner bolt & rotate the tensioner upward to expose the plunger. then push the plunger back in with a long screwdriver (be careful not to score the chain guide). this will ensure the plunger does not fall out during removal.

3) prop up/anchor the guide as shown above. just do it. it will make your life much much easier.

4) make a little cardboard "table" over top of the PS belt to hold things & "stage" the tensioner while getting ready to install it. also prevents oil from getting on the belts.

5) as mentioned by others, the chain makes a HORRIBLE noise when first started again. this lasts for a couple minutes. revv the motor gently to help bleed air from the tensioner.

6) wait for the engine to cool before you do this. I didn't, and it was quite hot to say the least.

Nice info, thanks. Does the old tensioner have that gasket behind it? Is it basically there to take up space? It also looks like its a metal gasket(?) I need to do this to my noisy 96 and will probably get the new style and "rebuild" my old one.

Awesome pictures skyjumper!

Hopefully this will help others who are considering this repair. It is really not that difficult, just a little work in a confined space.

you think that's a pita, try removing the entire timing cover in the car :) Good job and props for the pic's

I think this should be added to the maintenance sticky, this really is a good thread with a good writeup and even better pictures, what else cold you ask for?

PMing kevlo right now

Tensioner and gasket part numbers for a VQ30DE (I30)
 

Hi,
I just registered and I can't post new threads; so I will revive this post.

I’m new here. This is a great informative forum.
I have a 1996 I30 with ~155K miles on it. Oil changed every 2500 miles. It started making the infamous timing chain noise recently. I did a search here and found very informative threads such as this one… But I could not get or open the link to the NTB00054.

I’m planning on doing the job myself and I need some help/info.
1. What is the tensioner part number?

2. Do I need a gasket as cited in the above thread? If so, what’s the part number?

There was some other threads that stated that the tensioner were too long. But, there was no closure to the issue? Is there a mis-understanding of the part numbers at the dealership?

3. What should I use to seal the cover (providing access to the tensioner.)?
4. Anyone can post a pdf link to the NTB00054.
Thank you all in advance.

Moderators, I know this is an I30, but it is a similar Maxima engine issue so I thought I get some feedback from this forum. If you deem this to be the wrong place, please move my post accordingly. THX.

What's with the color? Makes it very hard to read, at least for me. Notice how most people don't post in colored text?

Anyway, regular RTV will seal up the access cover.

Search around the site, you will find both the tensioner and gasket part numbers.

I just replaced the tensioner a few weeks ago without the gasket. The start up noise is still there, Grrr. This weekend I am doing the tensioner again with the gasket ($5.81 from the dealer). Let's hope the gasket helps.

UncleMax98,
Please get me the tensioner and the gasket part numbers, I have a 96 I30.
Called the dealer and they claim no such gasket exists.

I searched the forum and Googled for the part number with no avail.
Thank you in advance.

Mine is 1998. The part number for the Tensioner is 13070-31U03 ($63 from DaveB) Tension Gasket 13079-31U00 ($5.87 from local dealer). The new tensioner has the same shape as the old one.

Tips: Don't let the plunger come out. If you do, pay attention to the little plastic piece inside. Its ends are not the same, so don't swap its ends. Not sure if it matters, but don't take chance.

UncleMax98,
I put my order on hold...........
Should i get tensioner PN 13070-31U03 or the NEW tensioner PN 13091-31U26?
Some people said that the new tensioner will not fit thru the service cover.
I'm buying the gasket anyway.
Thank you UncleMax98 :D:D

Don't know anything about the new tensioner.

I heard some rumor that Nissan changed Tensioner design (maybe just a new shape) sometime between 1998 and 1999. And the older tensioner is no longer for sale. If the car has the old tensioner style, any repair requires removing timing chain cover and replacing the entire set: Tensioner + Guide.

Somehow the tensioner I purchased is the same design as the one already in my car. Don't know if Nissan is selling both old and new style tensioners. And they sell the correct one based on car model year.

i have a 98 makin all kinds of rattling noise so should i go with the new one PN 13091-31U26

I spoke with Mike (and Justin & Mike form http://everythingnissan.com/) at 888-216-5328.
I was told that PN 13091-31U26 is not a tensioner, but a Tensioner Guide.
Tensioner PN 13070-31U03 (for an 1996 Infiniti I30, Engine VQ30DE) has been redesigned and superseded by PN 13070-31U0A.

The best thing to do is call Justin or Mike.
Also remember, there are three Tensioner in the VQ30DE Engine; TWO “ Camshaft & timing – Tensioner ” and one “ Timing Chain – Tensioner ”. Look at this picture http://www.nissanforums.com/a32-1995-1999-chassis/81491-1995-timing-chain.html, you’ll see the three tensioners.

I ordered PN 13070-31U0A with the gasket. I’ll show a picture.

Maybe people can post different tensioners PNs and the relevant picture of each.

Actually, it's a tensioner and a chain guide. I know, because I ordered it for my '95 maxima. Earlier, there were two part numbers, one for tensioner and another for the chain guide, but later, they redisigned tensioner and you had to change it together with the chain guide. From then, with one part number you get a tensioner and a guide.

FAST says: 13070-31U03 superseded by 31U0A is for the 5th gen VQ30DE from 1999 till 2001 and for VQ35DE model series R50. But I just may use FAST wrongly :)

Based on verbal a discussion, that seems very possible since I could not see a diagram or a description of the part.

I asked and made sure if that was for the VQ30DE! Maybe the part numbers got mixed up in the discussion.

lexoid, thanks for straightening up the info. :)
((( I think when we refer to a tensioner we need to make a distinction in the nomenclature........
Tensioner, i30, camshaft chain, right - VQ30DE PN__??
Tensioner, i30, camshaft chain, left - VQ30DE PN__??
Tensioner, i30, crankshaft chain, (lower??)- VQ30DE PN__?? )))

Not necessarily. If they asked you for your VIN number and used it for a part search, then the p/n is correct


I need a VIN to use FAST for p/n mining. Even in that case, those p/n might be incorrect for the same model, but a different year.

Even if it was a 95-96 maxima, the fix is the same. I have replaced the tensioner on my old 95 in about 1/2 hour. Very basic procedure. From the looks of my 99, everything looks identical. Time to do her.

I had the very same problem too when I did the thermostat and the metal gasket kept moving around and not aligning with the hole. What I did was tie a sewing thread thro the holes holding the gasket with the thermostat. It was a breeze after that, I didn't even have to remove the thread, just left it in there. This bright idea was from my wife -- good ideas seldom seem to come to me.

Sky Jumper, nice camera by the way.

How did this turn out for you?

I just replaced the tensioner on the GF's 1995 using the numbers you provided (tensioner and gasket). I had talked to Nissan parts and the guy told me (with the VIN I provided), the tensioner part number was correct.

When the new tensioner arrived, it was slightly different. The piston seemed to be angled slightly downward compared to the original (but seemed to engage the guide sufficiently).

We experienced the initial rattle on startup, but there seems to still be a rattle even after it has warmed up and was driven a few miles. At times, it seems pretty loud.

The noise seems to be coming from the top front of the timing chain cover.

Is it possible that one of the other tensioners needs to be replaced?

Dan Erickson,
I just got your saw your questions

To answer your questions,
If the dealer told you that the are equivalent and the parts are not you’re not the first; I got the same problem.
Read ahead.

There is more than one tensioner in the I30 Infiniti (VG30DE engine). It could be one of the other tensioners. There are 3 or four, I believe.
Look HERE.

That said it is possible that the noise is coming from one of the other tensioners.






BTW……..I started yesterday at 5pm, stopped at 9 pm and finished early in the morning.
See my page (for some reason I can not post pictures her???)

^^Ummm, it's VQ30DE used in the I30/4th gen maxima, the VG30DE was used in the Z32 300zx. There are three tensioners, the main one and two for the secondarys, but I couldn't see those causing any noise whatsoever, I mean sure it's possible, but not really.

Was the warm rattle there initially or only after installing the tensioner? The dealer parts guys don't know ****, they just told you it's right because that's what there computer tells them, and I'm sure you got the superceded new style one correct? What part # was on the package, and did it come with a new guide as well?