Intake manifold OFF. What should I do since I'm already here? *PICTURES TO HELP*
 

Before I start, I want to say thanks to sparky1562 & pmohr and this forum as a whole. :) I've learned a lot and saved myself a lot of money and time (well maybe not but I learn). What's best is that peace of mind doing things on my own and going the extra step.

Specs:
90,000 miles - 97 AUTO

I've been trying to correct the SPARK PLUG TUBE so I had to take the INTAKE Manifold off to get to the rear valve cover. Finally ! I get there and I want to replace those 2 COOLANT hoses that run from the firewall to the front (under the Throttle Body).
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rewallhose.jpghttp://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rx/coolegr.jpghttp://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...apewrx/vac.jpghttp://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...wrx/tbiacv.jpg

*Any suggestions and help welcomed.
I plan to get more pictures so maybe future people can look at it and have it better.

From what i know and done:
-definitely separate the TB and IACV and clean it with TB cleaner for TB and carb cleaner for IACV, replace gaskets (metal one for iacv paper for TB buy them fro mthe dealer)
Dealer MAY carry those hoses or im sure you can order them from nissan
i would not suggest brake cleaner down the intake man. but some carb cleaner may help.. it will eventually get dirty as well, dont forget to replace the PCV valve and KS if you need to, you could take out all 6 injectors while you got the rear man out and clean them (never did this so i do not have the details)...fuel filter is easy to reach from there if you need to replace it as well...and the EGR ... definitely take the pipe off and clean it.. its in the second last pic, sticking up to the left of the top red circle...with 2 bolt holes and the center opening...thats all that comes to my mind right now

^ Is the EGR pipe easy to get off? Is that all I gotta do for the EGR?

Is it okay to hose the INSIDE of the INTAKE MANI w/ brake cleaner or carb cleaner?

spray donw the interior of the plenum and 2 days later it will be coated again. there is no point in doing it. clean the small EGR pipe. that is usually the only problem with the EGR system.

Ok,

Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).

If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.

Cleaning the UIM: If you are going to clean it, then remove the EGR system. There is no point in cleaning it if you are going to keep it in, in 6 months it is going to be back the same way, trust me! NOW, if you want to clean it, use the following stuff: Paint stripper. Pressure Washer. Brushes. That will take care of everything.

(personal experience, Ive done this a few times)

EGR system is easy to remove BTW.

doesnt a brand new egr pipe cost like $30 at courtesy or so i heard ?
thats cheaper (or at least less effort) than cleaning the old one ...

I see what you mean on the bypass now (the EGR back ones I showed right?). I'll get a cut and snip for that.
My gaskets ripped as I unscrewed things, so I suppose I just gotta get new ones.

My EGR pipe was dirty, but not CLOGGED. I scraped some out, but some of the 'carbon' build up might've fell in? Is that a problem? Nothing was really clogged and my IACV is pretty clean actually. TB back plate was gunked but I cleaned it.

I'll attempt the EGR.

I found my problem, the tube seal fell DOWN ward completely.

The 2 coolant hoses that connect to the back of the intake -I purchased from Courtesy Nissan for under $ 5.00 each. Also replaced the big rubber gasket that the intake
sits on ( $ 4.36 at Courtesy.)
After 285,000 miles my egr pipe was still pretty clean. I had a few chunks of goo in the
port on the intake where the egr connects to. I had cleaned this port out (via the IACV
opening) at around 200k - when I had the 0302 code as it was completely clogged back
then.
Vacuum hose should be available at any auto parts place.
I used the "regular" hose clamps on those hoses at the back of the intake -those spring
clamps were a pain to remove.
Trying to clean the inside of the intake is futile imo, mine's dirty as hell , but the car still
runs incredibly smooth.

:thumbsup:

Your getting there!

^^ Thanks. I'll leave the EGR alone. I don't think it's bad. It's not clogged. I'm just awaiting my parts to come in.

I gotta pickup the gaskets at the dealership.

1 big question. Do I need any 'sealant' on the TUBE seals itself? The seal FELL down, therefore causing me this problem. I picked up some GRAY gasket thingy.

I agree on the gaskets, as long as you don't crack them and pay attention to setting them they are fine. As far as bypassing the TB coolant line, you run the risk of the high-idle cam sticking (engine doesn't realize it's warm) and wandering idle. Nothing huge to correct but if I did it again (or when I do) I would run those lines.

^^ Are you sayin bypassing the IM hurts the car? So there's some sore of sensor in the IM between those 2 lines?

There is a device on the throttle-body called the "fast-Idle cam" that increases the cold idle, it needs those coolant lines connected to function properly. Leave them. But the one at the IM is worthless and can be bypassed to ease re-assembly.

The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.

Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.

EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.

Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.

Awesome. The mani wasn't clogged. Nothing was. But there was of course build up. I tried to remove as I can.

I will try check locally for vac lines. I know we got coolant lines though.

I just wanna change the heater core ones. There's no issue, but I just wanna do it since I'm already there.
So I am bypassing this right?

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rx/coolegr.jpg

Didnt know that...is this true with the 00VI swap too?

Agree, Agree

Yeah, check the EGR. Remember, cleaning the manifold wont do much if you are going to be running EGR and no PCV catch can, it will get dirty pretty quickly. I cleaned mine at 75K, and by 90K it was just as dirty again.

No carb cleaner? If he rinses and dries, why not? I know it can screw with the idle, but after rinsing, with the trace ammounts? Would it still affect it?

Nope, '00vi swap = 5th gen TB

What will the residual oil in the manifold affect? Nothing.But if you try to rinse it out by spraying it further in, possibly plugs, o2's, cat.

Thought so...good to hear. :D

I thought he was taking the mani out of the car to actually clean it? Like on a work bench? Then spray all the cleaner you want, just rinse it with water and dry(the inside of course).

Yeah I couldn't tell the way he worded it.

Also, get a factory nissan fuel filter on there :hide:

^^ one last thing. for the 'sealant', would it be alright to apply to BOTH sides of things like gaskets?

- my tube seals felll down from the rocker arm AROUND the spark plug tube, thus allowing oil to get in. i'm planning on using some sealant on those as well.

:sprint:

By-passing the coolant lines offers absolutely no benefits, yet will cause idle control problems.
A much longer then needed high idle will result from doing this. :tardsmash: