Defective Coil Pack Symptoms
08-01-2011, 10:48 AM
#41
08-01-2011, 12:51 PM
#43
09-08-2011, 12:35 AM
#44
I would think eBay, or the junk yard. But I think new coils are the way to go. eBay or rockauto.com dude.
On another note, my car still has the same original coils that it came with, already at 257,xxx but I'm getting the stop and idle engine jerking/shakes/knocks and so forth with no codes, no CELs and all. I do however need to replace my camshaft position sensor due to it leaking and just plain old. Does anybody think that that could be a probable cause to the shaking at low rpms?
•knock sensor - good. Only a year old
•spark plugs - brand new. Only 600 miles on them
•coils - I will check resistance and other test methods to rule them out.
Any more input is greatly appreciated!
On another note, my car still has the same original coils that it came with, already at 257,xxx but I'm getting the stop and idle engine jerking/shakes/knocks and so forth with no codes, no CELs and all. I do however need to replace my camshaft position sensor due to it leaking and just plain old. Does anybody think that that could be a probable cause to the shaking at low rpms?
•knock sensor - good. Only a year old
•spark plugs - brand new. Only 600 miles on them
•coils - I will check resistance and other test methods to rule them out.
Any more input is greatly appreciated!
09-12-2011, 10:59 AM
#45
You guys with coil pack problems should try closing up your sparkplug gap to about .028". I did this to my son's 5th gen Maxima and it eliminated the problem for the past year. Decreasing the gap lowers the voltage required to make a spark, which decreases the possibility of insulation breakdown due to insufficient standoff voltage at the higher voltage levels. Give it a try before buying new coils.
If you're worried about the decreased spark plug gap, don't be. This is a common practice with boosted engines to combat spark blow out at high rpm. I ran a .028" gap in my supercharged 4th gen for years with no problems, and no noticeable decrease in fuel efficiency.
...
If you're worried about the decreased spark plug gap, don't be. This is a common practice with boosted engines to combat spark blow out at high rpm. I ran a .028" gap in my supercharged 4th gen for years with no problems, and no noticeable decrease in fuel efficiency.
...
09-12-2011, 12:34 PM
#46
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
coil pack or other problem?
I am having similiar symptoms, but don't wont to spend money on coil packs without advice from experienced members.
Are these also coil pack symptoms on my 1999 Maxima:
Intermittent misfire in drive at stoplight, somtimes when driving slowly. Stops misfiring or lessons when I put it in Park.
Codes shown by autozone code reader: P0138, PO139, P0325
I was told that a bad rear oxygen sensor would not cause these symptoms? Or the Knock sensor?
I have 110,000 miles on the odometer.
I have the records of the previous owner and show the spark plugs have not been changed.
The throttle body has been cleaned and induction cleaning of the injectors within the past year.
Any help or advice would be appreciated !!
Are these also coil pack symptoms on my 1999 Maxima:
Intermittent misfire in drive at stoplight, somtimes when driving slowly. Stops misfiring or lessons when I put it in Park.
Codes shown by autozone code reader: P0138, PO139, P0325
I was told that a bad rear oxygen sensor would not cause these symptoms? Or the Knock sensor?
I have 110,000 miles on the odometer.
I have the records of the previous owner and show the spark plugs have not been changed.
The throttle body has been cleaned and induction cleaning of the injectors within the past year.
Any help or advice would be appreciated !!
10-14-2011, 04:22 PM
#47
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Ok so I tried the resistance test and got some sad results. Only two of them were within range I suppose. one measured 1.7 Mohm and the other 2.4 Mohm. All the others were like .02M, .03M, .14M, and .02M. The car was running fine before I decided to replace the plugs. I ended up getting the 4 prong Bosch plugs, but after reading a little and the noticeable lack of power and the CEL, I had to return them, now running the JKG plat. Is it possible that those Bosch plugs messed up my coil packs that badly?
I think that I'd like to try the gap change as mentioned but with these bad of readings I'm not too sure that'll help.
I think that I'd like to try the gap change as mentioned but with these bad of readings I'm not too sure that'll help.
11-24-2011, 06:30 PM
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 22
Hello. I'm new here and found this forum trying to diagnose problems on a 97 Maxima. 200,000 miles.
I have OHM'd all my coils and all fall short when the positive and negative wires are reversed between + and G. The reverse reading is .337ish on all the coils. My question is what causes all coils to go bad?
It's unclear if they all went bad at once or if they all went bad over time since I bought the car in this condition 3 days ago. Is there something before the coils that may be bad causing them to all go bad?
The following is the symptoms and codes.
Seems to idle fine. Performance stumbles horribly at 1500~3500 rpm under load (feels like its running on 3 cylinders). At a flat level cruising speed it seems smooth. CEL on steady, pulses under acceleration.
The codes from the onboard self diagnosis were as follows:
0701 - multiple cylinder misfire
0304 - knock sensor
cleared the codes and these showed up
0201 - ignition signal circuit
0606 - cylinder 3 misfire
So with all that said, I'd like to hear from of the more established Maxima guys. Any help is much appreciated.
I have OHM'd all my coils and all fall short when the positive and negative wires are reversed between + and G. The reverse reading is .337ish on all the coils. My question is what causes all coils to go bad?
It's unclear if they all went bad at once or if they all went bad over time since I bought the car in this condition 3 days ago. Is there something before the coils that may be bad causing them to all go bad?
The following is the symptoms and codes.
Seems to idle fine. Performance stumbles horribly at 1500~3500 rpm under load (feels like its running on 3 cylinders). At a flat level cruising speed it seems smooth. CEL on steady, pulses under acceleration.
The codes from the onboard self diagnosis were as follows:
0701 - multiple cylinder misfire
0304 - knock sensor
cleared the codes and these showed up
0201 - ignition signal circuit
0606 - cylinder 3 misfire
So with all that said, I'd like to hear from of the more established Maxima guys. Any help is much appreciated.
11-26-2011, 07:15 AM
#50
Since they all measure the same value your coil packs are probably fine. Highly unlikely they are all bad. Your readings are a result of how you are measuring or the equipment you are using. Although it is possible you may have one bad coil that the ohmmeter test is not picking up.
11-26-2011, 05:23 PM
#51
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 22
Well I tested all of them on a Fluke 179 (I'd trust a Fluke over most any $15-$25 radioshack meter anyday).
I changed my plug gap to .028 and found that most of the sputtering has gone away. However it still will sputter at certain ranges. It's at least drivable now.
I did notice that the Knock Sensor was cracked. I currently have it unplugged.
I changed my plug gap to .028 and found that most of the sputtering has gone away. However it still will sputter at certain ranges. It's at least drivable now.
I did notice that the Knock Sensor was cracked. I currently have it unplugged.
12-26-2011, 03:16 PM
#53
You guys with coil pack problems should try closing up your sparkplug gap to about .028". I did this to my son's 5th gen Maxima and it eliminated the problem for the past year. Decreasing the gap lowers the voltage required to make a spark, which decreases the possibility of insulation breakdown due to insufficient standoff voltage at the higher voltage levels. Give it a try before buying new coils.
If you're worried about the decreased spark plug gap, don't be. This is a common practice with boosted engines to combat spark blow out at high rpm. I ran a .028" gap in my supercharged 4th gen for years with no problems, and no noticeable decrease in fuel efficiency.
...
If you're worried about the decreased spark plug gap, don't be. This is a common practice with boosted engines to combat spark blow out at high rpm. I ran a .028" gap in my supercharged 4th gen for years with no problems, and no noticeable decrease in fuel efficiency.
...
12-29-2011, 04:24 PM
#56
12-29-2011, 05:52 PM
#57
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicago Illinois
Posts: 45
If you can determine which cylinder is misfiring (assuming it's only one or two that are giving you problems), then you can swap coils with a different cylinder (that you know is not misfiring) and see if the misfiring moves to the cylinder you put the suspect coil in. If the same cylinder still misfires, then it is not a defective coil problem. If the cylinder you put the suspect coil in misfires, then you have found the source of the problem and you can just replace the one coil.
The traditional way to determine which cylinder is misfiring is by disconnecting coils one by one and seeing how it affects idle speed. If there is no change in idle speed after you disconnect its coil, then that is the cylinder that is misfiring.
The traditional way to determine which cylinder is misfiring is by disconnecting coils one by one and seeing how it affects idle speed. If there is no change in idle speed after you disconnect its coil, then that is the cylinder that is misfiring.
01-01-2012, 07:56 PM
#59
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: nj
Posts: 1
replaced coils and plugs still ses light on !
I just replace all my coil packs again and new plugs. Car seems to be running better, but ses light still is on! I had the battery dissconnected for a while, but it still wont go away.Now dash lights dim when I put my lights on and car does not seem to be running at 100 % . Battery is new, and I dont know what else to check. Car is a 2000 Maxima with 113k on it . Any help ?
01-02-2012, 06:46 AM
#60
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Florida.....Space Coast
Posts: 21
Could we clarify the testing process? That earlier post that called out a "0" reading and infinite resistance was confusing as pointed out by Moderator. I believe the Moderator suggested that the reading should indeed be infinite, but that still wasn't 100% clear.
The long coil has labels IB, G, + but the short ones do not have labels.
Please clarify which of these should be probed.
The long coil has labels IB, G, + but the short ones do not have labels.
Please clarify which of these should be probed.
01-02-2012, 07:04 AM
#62
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Florida.....Space Coast
Posts: 21
Found the following in a another thread:
In order to test the coil, take it out. Measure the resistance in the following manner:
POS to 1 and NEG to 2 -- should show infinite resistance
POS to 2 and NEG to 1 -- should show continuity but not zero ohms
POS to spark plug and NEG to 1 -- should show infinite resistance
POS to 1 and NEG to spark plug -- should show infinite resistance
Connector number 3 is a trigger and is not measurable.
Connector:
___|--|___
| 3 | 2| 1 |
-----------
If any coil shows otherwise than it sould be replaced.
If I remeber correctly, the resistance between pin 1 and 2 was about 16- 21 ohms on my 96' but dont quote me on that. I did it long time ago.
In order to test the coil, take it out. Measure the resistance in the following manner:
POS to 1 and NEG to 2 -- should show infinite resistance
POS to 2 and NEG to 1 -- should show continuity but not zero ohms
POS to spark plug and NEG to 1 -- should show infinite resistance
POS to 1 and NEG to spark plug -- should show infinite resistance
Connector number 3 is a trigger and is not measurable.
Connector:
___|--|___
| 3 | 2| 1 |
-----------
If any coil shows otherwise than it sould be replaced.
If I remeber correctly, the resistance between pin 1 and 2 was about 16- 21 ohms on my 96' but dont quote me on that. I did it long time ago.
01-02-2012, 04:17 PM
#63
...
01-04-2012, 02:50 PM
#64
The .028" gap is a number used by some of the boosted guys from way back, like Mardigrasmax (and me). Don't know if he is still around. Your car will still run fine at .028", lower than about .024" and you might have problems with fuel ignition. Closing the gap reduces the voltage needed to create a spark, and the ignition coil is less likely to malfunction at a lower voltage. Like I said earlier, ignition coil failures are almost always due to a breakdown of insulation, resulting in less voltage standoff at the damaged area. If you decrease the voltage needed to create a spark, then you can get some more life out of coils. Eventually the insulation will deteriorate to the point where you will have to replace them, however, but it might take a couple of years.
...
...
01-05-2012, 11:03 AM
#66
DUDE YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW MUCH I LOVE YOU RIGHT NOW. NO HOMO! but I've been trying to figure out how to do this since Febuary of last year. I had to get my car inspected and it failed of course because I couldn't get the light to go off because of the ignition coils! I had to make up a fake receipt(sp) and take it to the DMV to get a WAVER so I can get new tags! But if the coils aren't from nissan will the reading be the same or all coils that aren't nissan cause the SES light to come on? Please PM me if I don't return to this tread!
01-05-2012, 11:41 AM
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
when I first got my car it had one faulty ignition coil. The only symptom I would get would be a RPM flutter at idle. Completely went away when accelerating. This even stumped the Dealership from where I purchased it. They had to call in a guy from California to specifically look at my car, he was the one who told them to replace the coil.
Kinda wish they listened to my suggestion in the first place but I got a lot of freebie maintenance before they called that guy in.
But yeah you may want to add RPM flutter and drop at idle to the list.
Kinda wish they listened to my suggestion in the first place but I got a lot of freebie maintenance before they called that guy in.
But yeah you may want to add RPM flutter and drop at idle to the list.
03-06-2012, 07:06 PM
#68
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
After getting my defective coil pack replaced, I thought I’d give you a list of symptoms to identify this problem. I looked in the forums quite a bit and was able to piece the information together but I thought I’d share a detailled list of symptoms so others can identify the problem more quickly. Maybe this has been done before, but just in case here it comes:
• The car starts running very rough, especially at low revolution (between 1-4K RPM) and you can feel it shake in the stick and pedals. Seems less apparent >4K RPM.
• I noticed a different sound (louder than usual)
• Smoke from the exhaust not coming out as a steady stream but in chunks (“puff puff puff”) instead of the usual steady (“rrrrrrrrrr”)
• Very noticeable lack of power
• Sometimes, the RPM drops while accelerating (RPM would drop from 3.5K to 2K for no reason at open throttle)
• Sometimes, the SES light comes on and/or blinks while accelerating
• The SES code was [P0302] CYL 2 MISFIRE
I know there are other problems that can cause these symptoms but if you’re experiencing something similar, you should get your coil packs checked (or check them yourself).
Please feel free to add to this with any relevant information!!
• The car starts running very rough, especially at low revolution (between 1-4K RPM) and you can feel it shake in the stick and pedals. Seems less apparent >4K RPM.
• I noticed a different sound (louder than usual)
• Smoke from the exhaust not coming out as a steady stream but in chunks (“puff puff puff”) instead of the usual steady (“rrrrrrrrrr”)
• Very noticeable lack of power
• Sometimes, the RPM drops while accelerating (RPM would drop from 3.5K to 2K for no reason at open throttle)
• Sometimes, the SES light comes on and/or blinks while accelerating
• The SES code was [P0302] CYL 2 MISFIRE
I know there are other problems that can cause these symptoms but if you’re experiencing something similar, you should get your coil packs checked (or check them yourself).
Please feel free to add to this with any relevant information!!
03-08-2012, 06:37 AM
#70
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
04-13-2012, 09:53 AM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
I have 98 Maxima with 310,000 km or 192,000 mi.
Judging by the symptoms of two coils already changed, the rare but now more pronounced stuttering or "ch "ch" of engine signals to me another coil ready to bite the dust.
My previous experience was not till it was awful bad that the actual coil was diagnosed as faulty. I didn't have a check engine light, but even a garage computer test could not diagnose, until the symptoms were so advanced.
Not at that point now, but my question is I expect to drive around 1300 km next week and perhaps things could worsen. How does these things fail, does it totally incapacitate the vehicle, or it just continues running rough?
I'd like to do the self test, as I remember when I took to garage, got fleeced pretty good. $100 for computer test, $100 for coil and $100 for installation (this is a bloody 5 min job).
Also that multimeter test, I understand it is not always accurate, or only when coil malfunction is pretty advanced and are all coil interchangeable?
Judging by the symptoms of two coils already changed, the rare but now more pronounced stuttering or "ch "ch" of engine signals to me another coil ready to bite the dust.
My previous experience was not till it was awful bad that the actual coil was diagnosed as faulty. I didn't have a check engine light, but even a garage computer test could not diagnose, until the symptoms were so advanced.
Not at that point now, but my question is I expect to drive around 1300 km next week and perhaps things could worsen. How does these things fail, does it totally incapacitate the vehicle, or it just continues running rough?
I'd like to do the self test, as I remember when I took to garage, got fleeced pretty good. $100 for computer test, $100 for coil and $100 for installation (this is a bloody 5 min job).
Also that multimeter test, I understand it is not always accurate, or only when coil malfunction is pretty advanced and are all coil interchangeable?
Last edited by holymoly; 04-13-2012 at 09:56 AM.
04-13-2012, 04:14 PM
#72
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 7
I've been having rough running issues too and it sounds like the coils. From what I've learned about the issue, the front or left bank (closest to the rad) are identical to each other and they are different than the rear or right bank (which are also identical to each other).
Part numbers are:
22448-31U06 Front (left)
22448-31U01 Rear (right)
Now I'm trying to decide on a six pack of cheapies off eBay, or a couple of the more expensive ones and hope that no more go. The wrecker wants $30 for used ones so I won't go that route.
Part numbers are:
22448-31U06 Front (left)
22448-31U01 Rear (right)
Now I'm trying to decide on a six pack of cheapies off eBay, or a couple of the more expensive ones and hope that no more go. The wrecker wants $30 for used ones so I won't go that route.
Last edited by mike99; 04-13-2012 at 04:19 PM.
04-18-2012, 09:08 AM
#73
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 7
I found a U-Pull place in town and got two coil packs off a low mileage '98 for $5 each.
The car is now running great.
The diagnostic test that worked for me was disconnecting each coil pack at idle while listening for a change in the engine sound.
The car is now running great.
The diagnostic test that worked for me was disconnecting each coil pack at idle while listening for a change in the engine sound.
04-20-2012, 04:16 PM
#74
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 11
I've been having rough running issues too and it sounds like the coils. From what I've learned about the issue, the front or left bank (closest to the rad) are identical to each other and they are different than the rear or right bank (which are also identical to each other).
Part numbers are:
22448-31U06 Front (left)
22448-31U01 Rear (right)
Now I'm trying to decide on a six pack of cheapies off eBay, or a couple of the more expensive ones and hope that no more go. The wrecker wants $30 for used ones so I won't go that route.
Part numbers are:
22448-31U06 Front (left)
22448-31U01 Rear (right)
Now I'm trying to decide on a six pack of cheapies off eBay, or a couple of the more expensive ones and hope that no more go. The wrecker wants $30 for used ones so I won't go that route.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120891383555?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1439.l2649
12-10-2012, 04:09 AM
#76
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1
Cefiro Ignition Coils
Hie
Am new to this forum. Please assist me with Dave B's direct contact? Am in Southern Africa and I need a coil pack for a Nissan Cefiro (22448 2Y005 Hanshin MCP-2850) is the part number on one of the front coils
Am new to this forum. Please assist me with Dave B's direct contact? Am in Southern Africa and I need a coil pack for a Nissan Cefiro (22448 2Y005 Hanshin MCP-2850) is the part number on one of the front coils
