Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Alright, so Ive been a beloved owner of a 98 Maxima SE Auto for about a year now. The car has been a treat to drive since I've had it in my posession. It just seems lately, everything is slowly starting to fall apart. I finally get things back to some well maintained status and now my CV Joints are toast.

The boots are split wide open on the middle portion on the bottom side of the boot, it's bad enough that I can stick my fingers in the boot. Grease is all over the place, looks like an explosion of small proportions. The boots are both split in the same exact spot on both Driver/Passenger side.

Car has 133K miles on it; and ever since I got it Ive been on top of the maintanance.. but this snuck up on me. Now, I have to replace two CV Joints.. I have done the research

I am 98 Maxima w/ No ABS and Non-Locking Diff.. Advanced wants $70 a peice for them; should I go ahead with these? The brand is like GSP

also, whats this seal people speak of replacing while doing the CV Axles..

Thanks

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

those axles as long as they are the new ones, should be fine.
the seals being referred to the transmission output shaft seals.

Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, is there a part # handy on them seals..

I was also talking to another person about my CV Joints, and he said I could probably just pick up a boot kit and replace the boots accordingly. The reason why he suggested this was because, my last oil change was only about 2K Miles ago and I did a Idler Pulley job shortly thereafter and didn't notice any problems like I do now. He said I still might have time just to replace the two outer boots and be done with it?

That would save me a helluva lot of $ as I am on a tight budget right now..

nitromax

boot kits can be done as long as the joints are not worn from dirt getting into the joint. clean the joint & repack. of course more labor is involved. i recommend the new axles be done one at a time if that's what the budget will allow. just my .02 cents

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You could, but then again you could plug the sidewall of a tire instead of replacing it.

A bit of an extreme example, but yea.

If you don't know for how long they've been damaged (even if only 2000 miles, that's still a bit of time), it's best to replace the entire axle. You likely have quite a bit of dirt and grime inside the joints, which will lead to premature failure. Since you have to take the axle out to do the boot anyway (properly, that is), might as well throw a new one in.

Axle seal P/Ns: 38342-03E01 and 38342-03E00, according to late '06 copy of FAST. If there are any newer superceded part numbers, they'll show up when you try to buy the seals.

Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, I might just have to replace one CV Axle at a time for right now. If I went ahead and replaced one, would this screw with it being the other side is blown out. Id be alright, if it wasn't for inspection coming up in a month or two.

I need both part numbers provided, Pmohr? If so, which one is Driver / Passenger. I just checked for these on CourtesyParts.com and they are both Out of Stock on the seals; also were out of stock on the front suspension bushings I planned on replacing while I was in there too.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Just call up Dave B, he'll help you out, and get you them for cheaper than Courtesy most likely.

You can replace one at a time without problems (usually). Shouldn't really be an issue.

Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Donno, who Dave B is but I guess Ill find out..

Thanks

G4nismo

iTrader: (9)

my pass side blew a while ago and i bought a GSP from advance and got it installed.
its lifetime warranty so what have u got to lose?

z00york145

My boots are gone too, i was about to post something up about them..good thing i read this. Before I bought my car on the 10th, i brought it to king bear to have it checked out and ran before i went ahead and bought it, he brought to my attention that the boot on both sides are ripped and destroyed, I want to save time and money by getting the boot kit, but I don't want a crapload of problems coming along after it. I'm on a tight budget, I need my cheapest and easiest option, should I go with the boot kit? or take the extra step and blow through my budget and replace the cv axel?

MaxGordon7

iTrader: (36)

If you hear a car take a turn and it sounds like pop corn being made then you know they boots have been ripped for way too long. I would replace before that happens but you could go 3 months without problems to save some cash. A buddy has been over year on honda and I call his car the pop corn machine. For 300 you should be able to get someone to do it or do it your self for 150 with new axles.

MaxGordon7

iTrader: (36)

I tired the boot kit and had a hard time getting the axle apart. One part would come off easy and the other side seemed like it was pressed in. Most peeps would say get axles. Its really not that much money, Just save like 50 a week.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

So what constitutes premature failure, because I've got one customer w/25K and counting on a boot that was torn for months. I think I've done maybe 6 or 7 other ones as well and haven't had a complaint or come-back, and I still talk to most of them regularly. If you are tight on a budget like it sounds just get the boot kit as it's $10 from Napa, just be prepared for a very very messy nasty dirty nastiness ahead. Just one thing to keep in mind is that doing the boots leaves you with a Nissan axle, if you get new axles than please get a Napa max-drive or Raxle, no if's ands or butts, you will regret the $70 ones REAL quick, sometimes as soon as you go over 40mph........

nitromax

only if the previous owner never changed out the axles for aftermarket.
i'm on aftermarket axles...with no problems for over 2 years.

Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

well these are OEM Nissan CV Joints.. I just broke 133k Miles, and noticed this.. so I think they lived a pretty good life.

I can't get the seals locally, and I couldn't reach Dave B... Courtesy is also "Out of Stock" Go figure.. once I get the seals though I should have enough money saved to do both joints..

Thanks guys...

Jamaha80

You almost sound surprised that a 10 year old car w/over 100k miles needs something not classified as "regular maintenance." My maxima had outer cv boots that were split all the way in half on both sides for about 5 years before I finally replaced them. Even then, they didn't click. I'm not recommending you wait that long though.

Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Im not surprised to say the least; It's just one of those damn If you do damn if you dont situations.

vilmaxima

I guess it would all depend, it will be more money for new axles, but if its only the boots that need replacing, replace those. I dont really know how you would tell if you need new boots, or axles(you did not mention them clicking), so you might be better off replacing just the boots. If you do that though, make sure you clean all the old grease/dirt out well, then repack grease in the new boot(should come with grease).

garbury

iTrader: (4)

I've done both replacing axles and replacing the boot. The boot isnt really that bad, at least on a 3rd gen. My old boots were split completely around and loose. The grease was dark brown and watery from contaminants. I just pulled it apart, cleaned thoroughly, checked for excessive wear and then replaced. Its pretty easy and you can return a boot kit unopened if you realize your old axle is jacked.

nyc96max

iTrader: (5)

Just did my axles yesterday ... $200 w/labor

qqqqqqqman

Wow, the post is older, but is that TOTAL price? Or did he mean "+ labor"? I just pulled my '99 Maxima out of the Nissan dealership because they wanted $650 to do the CV BOOTS ONLY! I called an independent shop and they strongly suggested doing the full axel replacement and quoted me $500 MAX.....

I'm going to go with the full axel replacement for the $500....maybe it's more costly here in Cali anyway


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