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got SES light today .. how much $$ am I looking at?

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Old 09-08-2008, 12:37 PM
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got SES light today .. how much $$ am I looking at?

P0325
Knock Sensor -- not worried, this itself won’t cause SES light

My main concern is:

P0105 and P1105
These 2 seem to be related.
P0105 is described as: "a malfunction in the electrical circuit for the manifold absolute pressure sensor or the barometric pressure sensor"
P1105 says "MAP/BARO pressure switch solenoid valve"

My car knowledge sucks. I would appreciate any help here. Has anyone had any problems with the P0105/P1105 codes? How much did it cost to fix? Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:41 PM
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well then check those things or call a garage and ask them if they might kno... someone else will probably help more.... come on gurus this guy needs your advice
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:33 PM
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While the knock sensor wont cause a SES light, it can mess up your car's performance. So that's something you should look into.

As far as the absolute pressure sensor, your first step should be to visually inspect it to make sure it's not unplugged or something simple light that and trace the harness to make sure all those cables look ok. I believe the sensor itself says "Boost Sensor" and is located on the front side of the engine bay right by the intake snorkel on top of the radiator.
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Old 09-08-2008, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by phatryan69
well then check those things or call a garage and ask them if they might kno... someone else will probably help more.... come on gurus this guy needs your advice
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Old 09-08-2008, 02:46 PM
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the MAP/BARO switch (IIRC) has to do with the EVAP emissions control

It most likely needs a replacement.

NineOhSE is onto something, but it's actually a soleniod/not the sensor
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by heynow
the MAP/BARO switch (IIRC) has to do with the EVAP emissions control

It most likely needs a replacement.

NineOhSE is onto something, but it's actually a soleniod/not the sensor
It could be a couple different things, the sensor included..





Given that the common problem with both codes is the absolute pressure sensor, I'd start there and make sure the harness and everything is properly connected. It could be a free fix.
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:16 PM
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yeah i would start with the vaccum hoses they break easily after the years of use.
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:05 AM
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Those codes are interrelated. Meaning that if you fix one, the other one normally goes away. The MAP/Barro switch is just to the right of the front valve cover. I replaced mine and both of my codes went away.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Those codes are interrelated. Meaning that if you fix one, the other one normally goes away. The MAP/Barro switch is just to the right of the front valve cover. I replaced mine and both of my codes went away.
how much was it (parts/labor)?
the autozone guy was showing me the part that i needed but i wasn't really paying attention. i had a terrible head cold.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:11 AM
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the autozone guy is almost definitly guessing. Just the opinion of a old DM for autozone and GM for advance lol....
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:55 PM
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Any luck fixing it? I had a check engine light a while back, but it went away before I could bring it in.

I just brought the car in for state inspection and it failed the OBD test and I got those exact codes....

P0325
P0105
P1105

I definitely could use some help!
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Old 01-28-2009, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by stultus
Any luck fixing it? I had a check engine light a while back, but it went away before I could bring it in.

I just brought the car in for state inspection and it failed the OBD test and I got those exact codes....

P0325
P0105
P1105

I definitely could use some help!
It's most likely your boost sensor, both codes point to it as a possible cause. It's located on your intake scoop. Test it and check all of the vac lines.

Actually I didn't even read the thread, it's already been suggested.

Why don't you follow the suggestions above, and actually test something?
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Those codes are interrelated. Meaning that if you fix one, the other one normally goes away. The MAP/Barro switch is just to the right of the front valve cover. I replaced mine and both of my codes went away.
Where is the switch in relation to the sensor? Autozone is quoting me about $150 for the sensor, so I want to narrow it down a bit before spending that much.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stultus
Where is the switch in relation to the sensor? Autozone is quoting me about $150 for the sensor, so I want to narrow it down a bit before spending that much.
Did you test the sensor?

Location of the SSV:
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Old 01-30-2009, 12:18 PM
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!!

I dont have the tools to test the sensor, unfortunately, but I did just run to autozone (actually had to go to 3 different autozones) and buy a new one. It was very easy to swap out. Unfortunately, the CEL is still on. Should I reset and see if it comes back or will it, as the folks at autozone said, go away after driving for 60 miles--they wouldn't clear it with their OBD tester.

I asked everyone if they had the MAP/Baro solenoid valve and no one knew what I was talking about.

All of the hoses and connections look good.

I'm a first time fixer and searching this board has been tremendously helpful so far. Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2009, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stultus
Unfortunately, the CEL is still on. Should I reset and see if it comes back or will it, as the folks at autozone said, go away after driving for 60 miles
If the fault is resolved, the CEL should turn off after three complete drive cycles. The number of miles it takes to complete three drive cycles is dependent on how you drive.

I asked everyone if they had the MAP/Baro solenoid valve and no one knew what I was talking about.
You can only get those from a Nissan dealer, and they're outrageously expensive. I hope I'm wrong, but I think unless you tested both the sensor and the solenoid valve, it's just as likely to be one as the other. So replacing only the sensor might not clear the code, if it's the solenoid valve. But good luck.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:33 AM
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dupe

Last edited by stultus; 01-31-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:39 AM
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Thanks for the heads up. I called the dealer and I'm on my way to be out another $107! for a small piece of plastic. I hope that this is it!

I'm guessing that both the sensor and the solenoid didn't go bad at the same time, so maybe my old sensor is still good.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:43 AM
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look here as well. Pull the codes yourself, research the problem and reset the code yourself.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:52 AM
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definitely let me know how this goes, after i did my dek swap i have the p1105 code. i havent tested anything tho.

could this possibly have anything at all to do with me removing the EGR valve and some of its components? i traced hoses all the way from the boost sensor. somewhere down the path, iirc, the hoses head to EGR through a series of valves, hard lines, etc. correct me if im wrong, maybe ill check myself later on today.
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Old 01-31-2009, 12:37 PM
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Swapped out the solenoid, and drove around for 50 miles and the CEL is still on. Just grabbing some lunch now and then I'll go out and see if it's still spitting out the same codes.
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Old 02-02-2009, 05:10 PM
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Same codes still come up. I changed all of the vacuum hoses off of the solenoid and the sensor. My only thought is that I've either got a bad new sensor, the knock sensor is causing all of this, or I've got an electrical problem.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by stultus
Same codes still come up. I changed all of the vacuum hoses off of the solenoid and the sensor. My only thought is that I've either got a bad new sensor, the knock sensor is causing all of this, or I've got an electrical problem.
Did you clear the codes...?

If you haven't, clear them and see if they come back.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Coolsaber57
Did you clear the codes...?

If you haven't, clear them and see if they come back.
I cleared the codes manually (the screwdriver method) and unfortunately they came back.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:36 PM
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Mine keeps coming back as well.

I've tried three different boost sensors and a total of two MAP/Baro SSV's. I checked the hoses on SSV and they looked fine. Maybe I should disconnect them and blow through them to make sure they aren't clogged or something (didn't think of that when swapping stuff).
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