very nice thanks

I have a cali-spec 99 i30. So I found a tutorial with much less detail and pictures and headed out to chance my KS.

The KS was hidden behind a crap load of cali crap added to the car. Took me 5 hours. :( I had to make custom hooks and holders out of hangers and a swivel head saved me. A socket extender with a swivel had difficulty fitting much less a hand. To remove it I got the socket there and used a clothes hanger to align the socket on the bolt and removed. Getting it back was the problem. I put the screw in the new KS and plugged it in then used hangers.


only on fed spec.

Agreed. I had to come up with contraptions as well on my 99 Cali spec Max. Took me 3 hours. Now that I can take off the manifold in 30 minutes, that's teh way to go from now on, for me anyway. 30 minutes off, 30 minutes on. Done.

There are members here that swear they can change a KS on a Cali-spec Max in 10-15 minutes. I'm still waiting for the youtube video that I've requested on multiple occassions...:o

Thankyou, I wish there were tutorials like this for everything :) Well, just the things that don't have tutorials already :)

Throw out some ideas, I'll see what I can do.

I plan on doing a step-by-step 00VI swap tutorial when I do mine (whenever I get around to it).

Haha really!? For me? You shouldn't have... but since you insisted LOL


-A painting guide (For the newbies to painting, like always use primer before painting a new color, how to avoid paint bubbling, what to use to sand old paint effectively, and ect. But I learned all this through trial and error... but mostly error and so it would probably help people who had never touched a can of spray paint like me. Most of the guides I read assumed I knew the basics and such which I didn't haha) P.S. Sandpaper SUCKS at sanding paint, the little rocks in it all rubbed off before I even finished an area I ended up using those things for belt sanders with grooves machined into the belts)

-A guide to pulling out various parts inside the car like the dash, center vents, various vents, removing the roof lining.

-Removing the beeper in the car

-Installing various motion sensing alarms

-Replacing E-Brake cable

-Fixing dents with regular everyday tools (Maybe?)

-Cleaning the IACV valve (Not sure if I had that right, but I couldn't find a guide for it, but I'll make sure to search again to double check)

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head, I remembered searching for these things and finding info that was hard to understand because of the complexity in which it was written or were not covered.

Haha I'll be sure to make notes from now on whenever there is something that there should be a detailed guide for, but is not there.

SPER:

Excellent doc. I had same problem 2 years ago and had someone replaced for me with Nissan KS for about $250.

Now my O2 sensor needs to be replaced soon. I wonder if that can be done myself?

It is a hand torture devised by Japanese in the 90`s as a trade of to having such a fine
engine. Just did mine, what a pain, next ... dropped :)

How tight should the KS be tightened? Factory spec is 15-20 lbs of torque, but obviously there isn't enough room to shove a torque wrench in there.

ok im new to this nissan thing my uncle been having a 96 maxima never had a problem till today i snap on my scanner and it give me a fault in my knock sensor now can a bad knock sensor not allow the car to turn on ???? any help would help or any other things that are common on this kind of car ???

No, a bad KS will not prevent the car from starting. Two separate issues.

Need help!! so today i went to my friends shop to check whats wrong with my 98 maxima because it didnt drive the way it used to(decrease in power and when u step on it,it kicks in after a while) and he puts the scanner on and tells me its the Knock Sensor Bank One.So heres my questions:

#1.Is there a difference of bank one or its the same as shown in picture?
#2.Is it cause of my KS my car is actin like it has no power sometime and when i step on it it takes like atleast 5 to 13 secs to pick up?
#3.Could it be something else instead?
#4.What are the symtoms when your KS is done?
Sorry for the noob questions but i really want the pull back the way my maxima had =[

Plz Help Any comments would be good that tell me why my car actin that way
Thanks in advance

no one wants to help?=l

#1. As far as I know, our car has only one knock sensor
#2. Do you hear engine knocking? Have you try with premium gas. Premium gas should help even the KS is shot.
#3. Poissible
#4. Engine knocking, poor mileage.

Boy, wish pmohr was around.

Thanx^^
And i alwayz put premium gas since i ever got the car never used anything less then 93..

Are the ebay knock sensors good?Cause i dont want to waste my money and they dont even work when i put it in..

The one for ~$25 shipped has been working perfectly for me...

Ditto.

Today was the day I grew a pair of (you know) and decided to change the knock sensor. I have read all your comments and tips, but I still couldn't do it. So the problem is my wide palm does not fit where the knock sensor is located. So I've had my wifes little hand get in there (after much convincing), but did not have the strength to loosen it. Anyway after 40 minutes many cuts, and b!tching from the wife I am still stuck with a bad knock sensor. If anyone is NYC or LI I could drive to, there is a whole 60 and a case of beer ....... PLEASE HELP

Why are you sticking your hand under the LIM to loosen the KS bolt? Unless you're using an extremely stubby ratchet or wrench, I can't see why you'd do that.

Man i wish i lived in NYC.

Yeah its a PIA but it isnt impossible....... I still dont remeber how i got mine off(it was years ago) But iirc that was the first diy repair i did.

Here's what I did after much futzing around with u-joints, sockets etc... Secure the closed end of a small 12mm wrench on the bolt a notch to the left so you have room to break it loose to the right... Then, with two 3/8 extentions connected, place the end of extention in the open end of the wrench and force it loose grasping the extention as far away from the wrench as comfortable. This gives you more torque than trying to pry it loose from just the wrench alone. If it is snug on the bolt, it shouldn't fly off and the longer the extention, the more torque you'll have to break the bolt loose. Just use smooth force over, quick jerking motions and that shouldn't happen. Trust me, I'm as amateur as they get and this way worked best for me. If you are still having trouble, PM me and maybe we can give it a try as I'm in western Suffolk.

Good advice...
 

Great writeup, I'm going to try this....but have a Q.
 

Last week, I was experiencing a rough idle, nothing major but a noticeable hiccup. I decided to change the spark plugs. When I pulled out the #4 ignition coil it basically ripped off of it's shaft. I found my problem. I replaced the ignition coil, reluctantly with a part from Autozone (I replaced all 6 with Hanshins back in 04). I did this on Saturday. Car ran smooth, no more rough idle, power seemed good.

Monday, rolls around and my wife takes the Max out and tells me the CEL came on. I ask her if anything had happened. She tells me she accelerated very quickly after hitting the overdrive button and then the light came on. She also complained that it still has lost power. I took the Max to Autozone to get the codes checked and I got P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire) & P0325 (knock sensor condition).

The car runs smoothly and I don't feel a misfire. Is it possible that the misfire code was from last week and since I didnt reset the ECM, it is still showing up?

Also do you think the KS code is piggy backing off of the misfire code. I'm going to take it for a spin tomorrow and see if I notice any loss in power. Will definitely use this writeup and change the KS to see if that solves the problem. Let me know what you guys think I should do.

I just ordered my an oem ks from ebay for $52.00 shipped. I have very little power above 3krpms with code 0325. With no misfires, sounds like you should really look at the #4 cyl, could be a bad plug, it's already bad driving with a bad ks, I cant imagine a faulty #4 cyl.

What would be the easiest way for me to pull any codes i may ahve and see if i need to change my KS?

Seriously?


Look at the stickies, there's a very aptly named thread that concerns your question.

Knock Sensor - Hard to Reach
 

Just did mine yesterday. I was able to get the old one off with the techniques above, but there was no way to get my hand in to start screwing the bolt back in. I tried jamming my hand in there, but a wrist laceration would have cost me more at the emergency room than I stood to save on this one.

Solution, I loosened the connector block that sits right in front of the access area. There is a 10mm nut on the underside of the connector block. I loosened it until I could tilt the connector about 1/2 inch. Then I could cram my hand in fairly easily and start the bolt. I will post pictures.

http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...-Marked-up.jpg

GR

This past sun my car went thru a little puddle of water. After that my been driving weird and cel came on. I have two codes P0100 which is Maf malfunction and P0325 for Knock sensor malfunction. My car can't rev pass 2500rpm and stall at times while idling. Do u guys think this is more of a Maf issue then knock sensor?

It is most definitely more of a MAF issue than knock sensor. I bet you don't have a KS problem, it's just a piggyback code a lot of times and goes away once the real problem is fixed.

The Wiz is right, a common maf sensor problem is no revs past 250 rpm, its easier to change out, try getting a used one and im 100% is your maf sensor

Guys I let my car sit for a week and haven't drove it since last sun. Well today I went to check my codes and now the Maf code went away. Also my car can now rev pass 2500rpm. However, even though cel is not on there is still a P0325 knock sensor code. Car drove fine today so have anybody have this issue before?

What 'issue'? The KS code being present but the CEL not lit?

Yes, that's how it's designed. The KS code will never light the CEL.

Yes there is no check engine light anymore but when I check with my ObdII scanner the knock sensor code still show up.

Again, that's how it's supposed to be. Search, it's been asked countless times by those confused.

So everything is normal with my car you saying then? I just bought a new knock sensor last week too now I don't need it?

:(

No, I never said that. :scratch: If you're getting the KS code then there's obviously a problem somewhere.

Have you tested the KS, the subharness, or the main harness?

You should reset the ECU and if the KS code returns then it is most likely that it will need replacing but it should be checked like pmohr said.

I reset the code but the invisble knock sensor code is still there. Also I notice my gas mileage went down so I guess I still need to replace it.

I used the 12mm wrench tool to unbolt the bolt but I just can't. Is there anybody in the PA/NJ that have done this and can help me out?