Easy Knock Sensor Installation! Picture Tutorial
08-25-2013, 06:31 PM
#283
**** they have genuine Nissan ones on there for $40 now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Nissan-I...236902&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Nissan-I...236902&vxp=mtr
08-25-2013, 06:39 PM
#284
Banned
Join Date: May 2013
Location: south east conn.
Posts: 253
" they have genuine Nissan ones on there for $40 now"
I bought an oem ks for 40 bux also, it was my 1st time ever changing one and i used a ratchet 2xtentions and a swivel i was shocked it only took me literally 5 mins to replace!
man as much as you hear people complaining about changing em, i figured it was gonna suck!
I bought an oem ks for 40 bux also, it was my 1st time ever changing one and i used a ratchet 2xtentions and a swivel i was shocked it only took me literally 5 mins to replace!
man as much as you hear people complaining about changing em, i figured it was gonna suck!
08-26-2013, 12:16 PM
#286
" they have genuine Nissan ones on there for $40 now"
I bought an oem ks for 40 bux also, it was my 1st time ever changing one and i used a ratchet 2xtentions and a swivel i was shocked it only took me literally 5 mins to replace!
man as much as you hear people complaining about changing em, i figured it was gonna suck!
I bought an oem ks for 40 bux also, it was my 1st time ever changing one and i used a ratchet 2xtentions and a swivel i was shocked it only took me literally 5 mins to replace!
man as much as you hear people complaining about changing em, i figured it was gonna suck!
It's just a lot harder on a 99 Cali spec..
08-26-2013, 06:31 PM
#287
08-27-2013, 06:22 PM
#288
Banned
Join Date: May 2013
Location: south east conn.
Posts: 253
"This is why I relocated mine in the way I have pictured. KS is still doing its job after almost 18,000 miles since relocation"
If i remember right, you put the ks on top of like the IM? Is that a good spot for it? do you think it picks up the knock? I wouldnt think it would be to sesitive to engine knocks there? i think i would just leave a resistor in before i would bother moving it...while i was waiting for my new ks to arrive i did the resistor thing and it worked great...of course i only burn premium...or at least 91 octane
If i remember right, you put the ks on top of like the IM? Is that a good spot for it? do you think it picks up the knock? I wouldnt think it would be to sesitive to engine knocks there? i think i would just leave a resistor in before i would bother moving it...while i was waiting for my new ks to arrive i did the resistor thing and it worked great...of course i only burn premium...or at least 91 octane
08-28-2013, 08:10 AM
#289
I scan for codes once a week as a precaution. Mostly, I'm on the lookout for pending codes or any signs of trouble. The KS still functions just fine since relocation as it was triggered by my wife a while back.
She had taken the car for a weekend trip with her girlfriends to a craft show/ retreat in the Adirondacks. She called me the next day saying that she thought something might be wrong with the car as it didn't seem to have as much get up and go as before. I asked if the engine light was on and she said it wasn't. So I asked what she had been doing earlier in the day.... had breakfast, stopped and got gas, and were driving back to the hotel.
To make a long story short, she filled up with el-cheapo 86 and forgot to use the 93. When she got home I scanned the ecu and the KS had been triggered.
Andy
She had taken the car for a weekend trip with her girlfriends to a craft show/ retreat in the Adirondacks. She called me the next day saying that she thought something might be wrong with the car as it didn't seem to have as much get up and go as before. I asked if the engine light was on and she said it wasn't. So I asked what she had been doing earlier in the day.... had breakfast, stopped and got gas, and were driving back to the hotel.
To make a long story short, she filled up with el-cheapo 86 and forgot to use the 93. When she got home I scanned the ecu and the KS had been triggered.
Andy
09-20-2013, 02:05 PM
#291
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Austin
Posts: 8
This may be a dumb question, but how does the knock sensor code not light the check engine light? Are there any other codes that won't illuminate the light? I believe you though because I just had the CEL come on in my 96 and pulled the codes and there were two, one for the KS and one for an O2, and I highly doubt they went out on the same day.
Mine did the same thing. Its usually caused by a misfire. Which will trigger your KS an 02 to come up but they dont need to be replaced
10-29-2013, 06:35 AM
#292
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 272
i just did mine on 98 cali. took about an hour. first thing i did was unhook the green plug. it was impossible to take off the 10mm screw under the green plug to make more room. i then checked to see if i can get my left hand inside the little hole to the knock sensor and touch the 12mm screw. (*it will be impossible to put back the 12mm screw without your hand even if you're able to take it off with a wrench). mine just barely fit with some minor scratches.
next i used a short 12mm socket + u-joint + 3 inch extension + long extension. holding the long extension and using a flashlight, i was able to place the socket firmly on top of the 12mm screw. then i attached the socket wrench to the end of the long extension. it was on really tight and i was afraid i might break something but with a lot of force i was able to release it. (*make sure to cover engine parts with a towel or shirt so when you turn wrench you dont cut yourself)
i unscrewed it with the wrench about half way and then reach in with my left hand to unscrew it off. took out the knock sensor and noticed a crack. i unhooked the metal clamp holding the knock sensor with a tiny flat head screwdriver. replaced it with the new knock sensor i got for $8 on ebay.
next i taped the top of the 12mm screw to the knock sensor with 1 strip of electrical tape cause i was afraid the screw would come off putting it back into the hole. i put back the knock sensor with the screw taped on as close to the screw hole. i reached in with my left hand and carefully got the screw on. after couple of turns, i took off the electrical tape and turn it as much as possible. then got the socket back on and tighten it and plugged back the green plug.
i initailly failed the first smog test cause i had resetted my ECU a week before to turn off the Engine light. i passed the emission test but failed the functional check. he told me to drive the car for another 200 miles. a week later, my engine light came back on and i was getting knock sensor and 1 o2 sensor code and catalytic converter not ready. after i installed the new knock sensor, i resetted the ECU and went thru the steps to get ECU in ready state.
First i let it idle for about 3 to 4 minutes, drove 30 -35 for 2 miles (stop about 5 times) to get to fwy. i drove 55-60 mph for about 10-15 minutes and got off. Drove 30-35 for about 10 minutes (stopped about 7-10 times). then got back on the fwy and drove 55-60 for about 10 minutes. i checked the codes and no codes came on but only 5 parameters were complete and 3 incomplete. i did this around 3 a.m. so no cars would bother me. next night, i did the exact same thing to complete the other 3 parameters. i was able to complete 1 more but catalytic converter and egr monitor would not complete. so next day around 12 noon, i did same thing in hot weather and got catalytic converter to complete but egr would not.
i read somewhere i can still pass with 1 parameter in not ready so i took it back to the star smog check place. too my surprise, he hook up his obd2 scanner and all parameters were complete and no codes and i passed the test. i was using a $10 Mini ELM327 OBD2 scanner from ebay bluetoothed to my iphone. 3 days later, i get no codes and all 8 parameter complete. dont notice any difference in driving with new knock sensor. maybe the bad knock sensor triggered a bad o2 sensor. (*make sure to drive car around for 30 minutes or more before test. i just barely passed emission test first time with no warm up but the second test , i did a lot better after driving around.
next i used a short 12mm socket + u-joint + 3 inch extension + long extension. holding the long extension and using a flashlight, i was able to place the socket firmly on top of the 12mm screw. then i attached the socket wrench to the end of the long extension. it was on really tight and i was afraid i might break something but with a lot of force i was able to release it. (*make sure to cover engine parts with a towel or shirt so when you turn wrench you dont cut yourself)
i unscrewed it with the wrench about half way and then reach in with my left hand to unscrew it off. took out the knock sensor and noticed a crack. i unhooked the metal clamp holding the knock sensor with a tiny flat head screwdriver. replaced it with the new knock sensor i got for $8 on ebay.
next i taped the top of the 12mm screw to the knock sensor with 1 strip of electrical tape cause i was afraid the screw would come off putting it back into the hole. i put back the knock sensor with the screw taped on as close to the screw hole. i reached in with my left hand and carefully got the screw on. after couple of turns, i took off the electrical tape and turn it as much as possible. then got the socket back on and tighten it and plugged back the green plug.
i initailly failed the first smog test cause i had resetted my ECU a week before to turn off the Engine light. i passed the emission test but failed the functional check. he told me to drive the car for another 200 miles. a week later, my engine light came back on and i was getting knock sensor and 1 o2 sensor code and catalytic converter not ready. after i installed the new knock sensor, i resetted the ECU and went thru the steps to get ECU in ready state.
First i let it idle for about 3 to 4 minutes, drove 30 -35 for 2 miles (stop about 5 times) to get to fwy. i drove 55-60 mph for about 10-15 minutes and got off. Drove 30-35 for about 10 minutes (stopped about 7-10 times). then got back on the fwy and drove 55-60 for about 10 minutes. i checked the codes and no codes came on but only 5 parameters were complete and 3 incomplete. i did this around 3 a.m. so no cars would bother me. next night, i did the exact same thing to complete the other 3 parameters. i was able to complete 1 more but catalytic converter and egr monitor would not complete. so next day around 12 noon, i did same thing in hot weather and got catalytic converter to complete but egr would not.
i read somewhere i can still pass with 1 parameter in not ready so i took it back to the star smog check place. too my surprise, he hook up his obd2 scanner and all parameters were complete and no codes and i passed the test. i was using a $10 Mini ELM327 OBD2 scanner from ebay bluetoothed to my iphone. 3 days later, i get no codes and all 8 parameter complete. dont notice any difference in driving with new knock sensor. maybe the bad knock sensor triggered a bad o2 sensor. (*make sure to drive car around for 30 minutes or more before test. i just barely passed emission test first time with no warm up but the second test , i did a lot better after driving around.
Last edited by browne; 10-29-2013 at 06:53 AM.
10-29-2013, 09:47 AM
#293
11-13-2013, 03:05 PM
#295
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 15
KS on Valve Cover?HELP-HELP-HELP
ABIGBRAIN, your photo looks like you installed the KS on one of the upper intake manifold bolts, and not one of the rocker/valve cover bolts---am I incorrect here? I have a '96 SE (supposedly Fed and not Cal) which I bought in Cal. and the KS is back in between the upper and lower intake manifolds where it is very difficult to get at. I've only changed it one time but still always get the code, although always in conjunction, or at least at the same time, not necessarily triggering at the same time, with the PO500 code, the Vehicle Speed Sensor code.
To change the KS, I removed the vacuum switch at the back (left side/end of engine) end of tunnel between cylinder banks, the air intake tube, and then used a 3/8" ratchet with pivoting head and another pivot joint about 3" up from the head, and fairly long handle for 3/8" that I got from HFTools. Use a short-as-possible 12MM, 6-point socket (12-point more subject to 'slipping' on bolt head if not on square) and try to keep socket as squarely direct on bolt head as possible. It wasn't bad at all, with worst part getting the vacuum switch out with the 10MM nut on it underneath the switch. I also used a long piece of wire tie around the wrench to retrieve it in case I dropped it, which will happen a few times typically.
I need to get rid of the PO325 code but the PO500 must come first, but am very interested in relocating the KS, and thank you for your information. Brought the car up from Cal in '96 and it made it thru DEQ here for re-licensing, but two years later it didn't. The MIL was on when we bought the car, and then it would go out ofter a while, then come back on some time later, and continued to do this. Then some time after we first licensed it here in Oregon, it came on permanently. In '09 I was so frustrated I paid a guy $150 who "guaranteed" to get ones car thru DEQ or you don't pay. He just bolted a junk yard KS up on top somewhere and got it through, He said "The engine doesn't care where it is bolted on!". I would think it at least has to be somewhere it could pick up pre-ignition pinging, but perhaps not. In '11, I cleared the codes, same ones, and attempted the "Drive Cycle" Nissan recommends, and finally had it to where only two monitors were "Unready", so passed. I thought I had six key cycles in which to do this before a code would appear and the MIL would light, but have since found out that it is only two key cycles. Plus, now, the KS code is there immediately---what's up with that? I checked 'continuity' from the KS sub-harness connection by front left cylinder to pin 64 of ECM harness (F101) and it appears fine, then resistance check shows only .2 ohms, which should be fine. I thought about running a bypass wire as some have done but the R is minimal.
I also checked out the VSS circuit: The VSS puts out at least .5 volts AC by spinning it in my hands---actually got up to 1.7 volts. Both conductors to the back of the speedo check out fine continuity-wise, as well as their R figures, like .1 to .2 ohms. Then checked the line from speedo connector to pin 29 on ECM connector where the VSS signal goes from speedo to ECM, and it checks out just fine. Got me baffled
I had difficulty getting an R reading at the terminal side of the ECM connector, the side that goes onto the pins on the ECM, and had to use a 'breadbox' adapter pin (small, square .025 in. square) probe to get in there and get a reading. I'm wondering if the ECM connector (F101 in Nis FSM) is not making connection, or only intermittent connection with the pin coming out from the ECM??? I was thinking of trying a jumper wire, bypassing the regular one, the pink/blue from speedo to 29 at ECM, but I think the wire is fine, with only .1 to .2 ohms resistance showing, so doesn't seem like it could be 'shorted' with such low resistance. I would be greatly indebted to anyone who could give me sage advice on figuring out my problem----other than being such an idiot as to buy a Nissan with a CEL showing! LOL. Sorry for the length of this post but I have a deep problem seemingly, which I feel will take some unusually deceptive answer to fix, and I am seriously appealing for the Org members assistance. Thanks folks. Now I'll have to go smoke a cigar and cogitate on this.
To change the KS, I removed the vacuum switch at the back (left side/end of engine) end of tunnel between cylinder banks, the air intake tube, and then used a 3/8" ratchet with pivoting head and another pivot joint about 3" up from the head, and fairly long handle for 3/8" that I got from HFTools. Use a short-as-possible 12MM, 6-point socket (12-point more subject to 'slipping' on bolt head if not on square) and try to keep socket as squarely direct on bolt head as possible. It wasn't bad at all, with worst part getting the vacuum switch out with the 10MM nut on it underneath the switch. I also used a long piece of wire tie around the wrench to retrieve it in case I dropped it, which will happen a few times typically.
I need to get rid of the PO325 code but the PO500 must come first, but am very interested in relocating the KS, and thank you for your information. Brought the car up from Cal in '96 and it made it thru DEQ here for re-licensing, but two years later it didn't. The MIL was on when we bought the car, and then it would go out ofter a while, then come back on some time later, and continued to do this. Then some time after we first licensed it here in Oregon, it came on permanently. In '09 I was so frustrated I paid a guy $150 who "guaranteed" to get ones car thru DEQ or you don't pay. He just bolted a junk yard KS up on top somewhere and got it through, He said "The engine doesn't care where it is bolted on!". I would think it at least has to be somewhere it could pick up pre-ignition pinging, but perhaps not. In '11, I cleared the codes, same ones, and attempted the "Drive Cycle" Nissan recommends, and finally had it to where only two monitors were "Unready", so passed. I thought I had six key cycles in which to do this before a code would appear and the MIL would light, but have since found out that it is only two key cycles. Plus, now, the KS code is there immediately---what's up with that? I checked 'continuity' from the KS sub-harness connection by front left cylinder to pin 64 of ECM harness (F101) and it appears fine, then resistance check shows only .2 ohms, which should be fine. I thought about running a bypass wire as some have done but the R is minimal.
I also checked out the VSS circuit: The VSS puts out at least .5 volts AC by spinning it in my hands---actually got up to 1.7 volts. Both conductors to the back of the speedo check out fine continuity-wise, as well as their R figures, like .1 to .2 ohms. Then checked the line from speedo connector to pin 29 on ECM connector where the VSS signal goes from speedo to ECM, and it checks out just fine. Got me baffled
I had difficulty getting an R reading at the terminal side of the ECM connector, the side that goes onto the pins on the ECM, and had to use a 'breadbox' adapter pin (small, square .025 in. square) probe to get in there and get a reading. I'm wondering if the ECM connector (F101 in Nis FSM) is not making connection, or only intermittent connection with the pin coming out from the ECM??? I was thinking of trying a jumper wire, bypassing the regular one, the pink/blue from speedo to 29 at ECM, but I think the wire is fine, with only .1 to .2 ohms resistance showing, so doesn't seem like it could be 'shorted' with such low resistance. I would be greatly indebted to anyone who could give me sage advice on figuring out my problem----other than being such an idiot as to buy a Nissan with a CEL showing! LOL. Sorry for the length of this post but I have a deep problem seemingly, which I feel will take some unusually deceptive answer to fix, and I am seriously appealing for the Org members assistance. Thanks folks. Now I'll have to go smoke a cigar and cogitate on this.
11-13-2013, 04:12 PM
#296
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 15
HELP-Apology to BigBrain
My mistake ABigBrain, you DID IN FACT state that you had relocated the KS to the INTAKE MANIFOLD, not the rocker/valve cover as I had stated...I stand corrected. I also ordered one of these over the net from "GoodsForSmiles" on Amazon as there were good references to the seller as well as testimonials on his KS's sold---we'll see. I'm just going to get a longer bolt (8MM X 40MM X 1.25MM I believe) and bolt it where you did, and put the KS there with another sub-harness.
I still really need help with the PO500 code though all you gurus. I'm about ready to switch out the ECM, but I really don't think that is the problem, and that it is more likely the lack of connection between the ECM harness (F101) and the pin on the ECM, and I don't know how to possibly check that unless i could posibly check it out inside the ECM where that pin comes into the ECM---have to 'dissect' it to do that. I was thinking also of taking the pink/blue wire from #64 out of the connector, drilling a hole thru the connector (small, 1/8" or so), installing a micro female metal connector to the wire and placing it individually on the appropriate pin. Sounds goofy, but I don't know how to get around the possible lack of connection between the female connector and the pin on the ECM, if that is where the problem lies.
I need to add that the car has no driveability issues whatsoever, other than that the ASCD (cruise control) won't stay engaged. Periodically it did, but I don't use it much with the driving I do, and the last few times, it would not even engage. The speedometer functions fine in all respects, car has good power, runs smoothly, and otherwise is fine. Also of late, the OD light flashes 16 times after starting, and code P)705 shows up and my scanner (GST) says "communication link problem", which I think is between the ECM and trans. control unit. I'll look into that more later as I think it is related to the "P"/"N" selector switch at the shift linkage. The car starts immediately, but turns over a few times to start when the flashing OD light shows up. The shops just want to throw expensive parts/labor at "potential" problems and seemingly, I know much more about it than they do. I appreciate their starting point also, but would think they would have some learning experiences to base insightful appraisals on. Thank you in advance for any help that any of you might provide me on this problem.
A great day to all of you.
I still really need help with the PO500 code though all you gurus. I'm about ready to switch out the ECM, but I really don't think that is the problem, and that it is more likely the lack of connection between the ECM harness (F101) and the pin on the ECM, and I don't know how to possibly check that unless i could posibly check it out inside the ECM where that pin comes into the ECM---have to 'dissect' it to do that. I was thinking also of taking the pink/blue wire from #64 out of the connector, drilling a hole thru the connector (small, 1/8" or so), installing a micro female metal connector to the wire and placing it individually on the appropriate pin. Sounds goofy, but I don't know how to get around the possible lack of connection between the female connector and the pin on the ECM, if that is where the problem lies.
I need to add that the car has no driveability issues whatsoever, other than that the ASCD (cruise control) won't stay engaged. Periodically it did, but I don't use it much with the driving I do, and the last few times, it would not even engage. The speedometer functions fine in all respects, car has good power, runs smoothly, and otherwise is fine. Also of late, the OD light flashes 16 times after starting, and code P)705 shows up and my scanner (GST) says "communication link problem", which I think is between the ECM and trans. control unit. I'll look into that more later as I think it is related to the "P"/"N" selector switch at the shift linkage. The car starts immediately, but turns over a few times to start when the flashing OD light shows up. The shops just want to throw expensive parts/labor at "potential" problems and seemingly, I know much more about it than they do. I appreciate their starting point also, but would think they would have some learning experiences to base insightful appraisals on. Thank you in advance for any help that any of you might provide me on this problem.
A great day to all of you.
11-13-2013, 04:40 PM
#297
My mistake ABigBrain, you DID IN FACT state that you had relocated the KS to the INTAKE MANIFOLD, not the rocker/valve cover as I had stated...I stand corrected. I also ordered one of these over the net from "GoodsForSmiles" on Amazon as there were good references to the seller as well as testimonials on his KS's sold---we'll see. I'm just going to get a longer bolt (8MM X 40MM X 1.25MM I believe) and bolt it where you did, and put the KS there with another sub-harness.
I still really need help with the PO500 code though all you gurus. I'm about ready to switch out the ECM, but I really don't think that is the problem, and that it is more likely the lack of connection between the ECM harness (F101) and the pin on the ECM, and I don't know how to possibly check that unless i could posibly check it out inside the ECM where that pin comes into the ECM---have to 'dissect' it to do that. I was thinking also of taking the pink/blue wire from #64 out of the connector, drilling a hole thru the connector (small, 1/8" or so), installing a micro female metal connector to the wire and placing it individually on the appropriate pin. Sounds goofy, but I don't know how to get around the possible lack of connection between the female connector and the pin on the ECM, if that is where the problem lies.
I need to add that the car has no driveability issues whatsoever, other than that the ASCD (cruise control) won't stay engaged. Periodically it did, but I don't use it much with the driving I do, and the last few times, it would not even engage. The speedometer functions fine in all respects, car has good power, runs smoothly, and otherwise is fine. Also of late, the OD light flashes 16 times after starting, and code P)705 shows up and my scanner (GST) says "communication link problem", which I think is between the ECM and trans. control unit. I'll look into that more later as I think it is related to the "P"/"N" selector switch at the shift linkage. The car starts immediately, but turns over a few times to start when the flashing OD light shows up. The shops just want to throw expensive parts/labor at "potential" problems and seemingly, I know much more about it than they do. I appreciate their starting point also, but would think they would have some learning experiences to base insightful appraisals on. Thank you in advance for any help that any of you might provide me on this problem.
A great day to all of you.
I still really need help with the PO500 code though all you gurus. I'm about ready to switch out the ECM, but I really don't think that is the problem, and that it is more likely the lack of connection between the ECM harness (F101) and the pin on the ECM, and I don't know how to possibly check that unless i could posibly check it out inside the ECM where that pin comes into the ECM---have to 'dissect' it to do that. I was thinking also of taking the pink/blue wire from #64 out of the connector, drilling a hole thru the connector (small, 1/8" or so), installing a micro female metal connector to the wire and placing it individually on the appropriate pin. Sounds goofy, but I don't know how to get around the possible lack of connection between the female connector and the pin on the ECM, if that is where the problem lies.
I need to add that the car has no driveability issues whatsoever, other than that the ASCD (cruise control) won't stay engaged. Periodically it did, but I don't use it much with the driving I do, and the last few times, it would not even engage. The speedometer functions fine in all respects, car has good power, runs smoothly, and otherwise is fine. Also of late, the OD light flashes 16 times after starting, and code P)705 shows up and my scanner (GST) says "communication link problem", which I think is between the ECM and trans. control unit. I'll look into that more later as I think it is related to the "P"/"N" selector switch at the shift linkage. The car starts immediately, but turns over a few times to start when the flashing OD light shows up. The shops just want to throw expensive parts/labor at "potential" problems and seemingly, I know much more about it than they do. I appreciate their starting point also, but would think they would have some learning experiences to base insightful appraisals on. Thank you in advance for any help that any of you might provide me on this problem.
A great day to all of you.
11-15-2013, 02:55 PM
#298
11-15-2013, 03:04 PM
#299
Mine went right on without a hitch. Can you post up a pic showing your clearance issue? Not sure if this makes any difference... but I have stated the IM is a 99 Cali spec w/ swirl valves.
12-04-2013, 07:38 PM
#300
do you have a pic of where the cable should connect to on the car? I can't seem to find the path of where the original KS is and where it connect to the car.
its the last step I need, appreciate it
01-22-2014, 05:57 PM
#301
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Troy, NY
Posts: 4
Thank you all! I finally fixed my crappy knock sensor. I bought my 1997 I30 with a knock sensor P0325 Ghost code. Shows on my OBD2 Reader but no CEL. I didn't tell my father about it when we took a look at the car, otherwise he would have said something along the lines of "Oh it has an engine knock" and we would have never agreed to buy the car. A little bit deceitful but luckily my instincts didn't cost me an arm and leg. I love my car Lucy.
I removed the battery, air intake duct parts, removed a 10mm nut under the vacuum solenoid, used a 3/8 ratchet with 2 long extenders, a universal swivel, and a 12mm 6 point socket. Lifted my ratchet all the way up to get more leverage and boy once I heard that knock sensor bolt break loose I smiled like a baby with candy. I have small hands so it took me 15 minutes to put the new knock sensor in with a new harness. No codes and I can really feel a big difference with my car.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171177753750...84.m1439.l2649
I removed the battery, air intake duct parts, removed a 10mm nut under the vacuum solenoid, used a 3/8 ratchet with 2 long extenders, a universal swivel, and a 12mm 6 point socket. Lifted my ratchet all the way up to get more leverage and boy once I heard that knock sensor bolt break loose I smiled like a baby with candy. I have small hands so it took me 15 minutes to put the new knock sensor in with a new harness. No codes and I can really feel a big difference with my car.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171177753750...84.m1439.l2649
03-26-2014, 07:19 PM
#302
KS Issuessss
I know 1 things triggers another and I didn't have a muffler on my car when I went thru.
I FAILED Inspection 1st time since I purchase my car -
DMV gave me these Codes
p0110 - Intake air temp circuit malfunction
p0325 - Knock Sensor
p0443 - Evap Purge Valve circuit malfunction
p1105 - Absolute Pressure Sensor
p1402 -Exhaust Gas Recirculation block
The one Im concerned with is the KS as my mechanic replace KS once & when I replaced my engine KS code still comes up with Check Engine light on. Can it be a burnt KS wire harness? or something else?
PS> my mechanic is my best friends husband, he's a mechanic for police dept & he don't charge me. He's in his busy season so FREE work has to wait...Thoughts Pls
I FAILED Inspection 1st time since I purchase my car -
DMV gave me these Codes
p0110 - Intake air temp circuit malfunction
p0325 - Knock Sensor
p0443 - Evap Purge Valve circuit malfunction
p1105 - Absolute Pressure Sensor
p1402 -Exhaust Gas Recirculation block
The one Im concerned with is the KS as my mechanic replace KS once & when I replaced my engine KS code still comes up with Check Engine light on. Can it be a burnt KS wire harness? or something else?
PS> my mechanic is my best friends husband, he's a mechanic for police dept & he don't charge me. He's in his busy season so FREE work has to wait...Thoughts Pls
Last edited by luvmymax98; 03-26-2014 at 07:34 PM.
10-04-2014, 03:24 AM
#303
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 139
My apologies to the admins for replying to this older thread, but I'm thinking of fixing the KS on my 2000 Infiniti I30 and I came here to find help with this. Unfortunately, all the photos in the OPs original posts are gone. Perhaps you could find another way of hosting those pics so we could see them? It would be a great help to me and I'm sure others. Unless of course there's another KS how-to on the Org I'm unaware of.
10-04-2014, 08:06 AM
#304
Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 129
My apologies to the admins for replying to this older thread, but I'm thinking of fixing the KS on my 2000 Infiniti I30 and I came here to find help with this. Unfortunately, all the photos in the OPs original posts are gone. Perhaps you could find another way of hosting those pics so we could see them? It would be a great help to me and I'm sure others. Unless of course there's another KS how-to on the Org I'm unaware of.
10-04-2014, 08:37 PM
#305
I think it's better you reply in an old thread than to create a new one.
I used a long ratchet and socket and was able to loosen the knock sensor without sticking my hand in there. This is just to loosen the bolt. The bolt was on very tight! I used a Snap On fine tooth ratchet with swivel head. Their website is down due to maintenance.
Also, I would be very cautious of which knock sensor you purchase. The ones from ebay are crap. I had one that didn't work. I ended up buying one from the dealer.
I used a long ratchet and socket and was able to loosen the knock sensor without sticking my hand in there. This is just to loosen the bolt. The bolt was on very tight! I used a Snap On fine tooth ratchet with swivel head. Their website is down due to maintenance.
Also, I would be very cautious of which knock sensor you purchase. The ones from ebay are crap. I had one that didn't work. I ended up buying one from the dealer.
My apologies to the admins for replying to this older thread, but I'm thinking of fixing the KS on my 2000 Infiniti I30 and I came here to find help with this. Unfortunately, all the photos in the OPs original posts are gone. Perhaps you could find another way of hosting those pics so we could see them? It would be a great help to me and I'm sure others. Unless of course there's another KS how-to on the Org I'm unaware of.
10-04-2014, 09:15 PM
#306
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 62
I installed a new oem ks it was ok for a couple days then it became intermittent. I even relocated and changed the harness but it still failed. Finally I just did the resistor mod and no problems since. Very Happy with this mod!
10-05-2014, 02:08 AM
#307
My apologies to the admins for replying to this older thread, but I'm thinking of fixing the KS on my 2000 Infiniti I30 and I came here to find help with this. Unfortunately, all the photos in the OPs original posts are gone. Perhaps you could find another way of hosting those pics so we could see them? It would be a great help to me and I'm sure others. Unless of course there's another KS how-to on the Org I'm unaware of.
10-09-2014, 09:14 PM
#308
Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
This thread and the pictures wouldn't help you too much anyway. Since you have a 2000, you have a lower intake manifold with swirl valves, which blocks access to the KS. Therefore, you're screwed and you're gonna have to take the long road and remove the upper intake manifold, then the fuel rail, and then the lower intake manifold to get to the KS.
10-09-2014, 09:45 PM
#309
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