99 Max stays running after I pull key out ignition
07-13-2009, 02:46 PM
#3
When did it start doing this? Did you do anything to the car? Did anything happen to the car? Did you have anything done to the car?
We need at least some details.
How long does it stay running? If you put the key back in and jiggle it around, does it turn off? Can you drive it while it's doing this (short of the steering lock)? Do you have any aftermarket electronics in your car, most notably a remote start?
All of this is information that really should be provided.
We need at least some details.
How long does it stay running? If you put the key back in and jiggle it around, does it turn off? Can you drive it while it's doing this (short of the steering lock)? Do you have any aftermarket electronics in your car, most notably a remote start?
All of this is information that really should be provided.
07-13-2009, 04:02 PM
#4
This started just after my car died on my way to school, 2 weeks ago...apparently one of the injectors was pouring gas into one of my cylinders causing the engine to fuel-lock.
No aftermarket electrical stuff; the last mod I did was the NRP spacers on the manifold...to which I had to bend the ignition harness out the way(maybe the harness is damaged?) but that was about 2 months ago, and the car just recently went to $hit on me when that injector lost its small O ring and the gas kept flooding the cylinder.
The Nissan dealership says that the REF ckps may have shorted the ECU...would the ECU have any part in telling the car to shut off?
If I step on the gas after I pull the key out, it starves the engine because it opens the throttles body, so a lot more oxygen but the fuel stays the same, a minimal amount of fuel. So the injectors seem to keep injecting fuel just a little bit after I pull the key out, and the spark plugs keep firing as if they are not being told to stop.
No aftermarket electrical stuff; the last mod I did was the NRP spacers on the manifold...to which I had to bend the ignition harness out the way(maybe the harness is damaged?) but that was about 2 months ago, and the car just recently went to $hit on me when that injector lost its small O ring and the gas kept flooding the cylinder.
The Nissan dealership says that the REF ckps may have shorted the ECU...would the ECU have any part in telling the car to shut off?
If I step on the gas after I pull the key out, it starves the engine because it opens the throttles body, so a lot more oxygen but the fuel stays the same, a minimal amount of fuel. So the injectors seem to keep injecting fuel just a little bit after I pull the key out, and the spark plugs keep firing as if they are not being told to stop.
07-13-2009, 04:07 PM
#5
This started just after my car died on my way to school, 2 weeks ago...apparently one of the injectors was pouring gas into one of my cylinders causing the engine to fuel-lock.
No aftermarket electrical stuff; the last mod I did was the NRP spacers on the manifold...to which I had to bend the ignition harness out the way(maybe the harness is damaged?) but that was about 2 months ago, and the car just recently went to $hit on me when that injector lost its small O ring and the gas kept flooding the cylinder.
The Nissan dealership says that the REF ckps may have shorted the ECU...would the ECU have any part in telling the car to shut off?
If I step on the gas after I pull the key out, it starves the engine because it opens the throttles body, so a lot more oxygen but the fuel stays the same, a minimal amount of fuel. So the injectors seem to keep injecting fuel just a little bit after I pull the key out, and the spark plugs keep firing as if they are not being told to stop.
No aftermarket electrical stuff; the last mod I did was the NRP spacers on the manifold...to which I had to bend the ignition harness out the way(maybe the harness is damaged?) but that was about 2 months ago, and the car just recently went to $hit on me when that injector lost its small O ring and the gas kept flooding the cylinder.
The Nissan dealership says that the REF ckps may have shorted the ECU...would the ECU have any part in telling the car to shut off?
If I step on the gas after I pull the key out, it starves the engine because it opens the throttles body, so a lot more oxygen but the fuel stays the same, a minimal amount of fuel. So the injectors seem to keep injecting fuel just a little bit after I pull the key out, and the spark plugs keep firing as if they are not being told to stop.
So it doesn't rev at all (or very little)?
Does it do this every time, or it easily reproducible?
07-13-2009, 04:13 PM
#6
It does not rev at all, just stays at a very unstable and weak idle, until I either push the gas pedal or pop the clutch in 1st to kill it.
It has done it every time so far after I got it to run again, except 1 time when it actually did shut off, but did not shut off like it should, meaning it took about 4-5 seconds after I pulled the key out to shut off completely. But every other time it just stays on at a very rough 450 rpm idle.
It has done it every time so far after I got it to run again, except 1 time when it actually did shut off, but did not shut off like it should, meaning it took about 4-5 seconds after I pulled the key out to shut off completely. But every other time it just stays on at a very rough 450 rpm idle.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 07-13-2009 at 04:19 PM.
07-13-2009, 07:10 PM
#8
07-13-2009, 07:37 PM
#9
Okay, I started it up, then turned it off, and it killed it! So I tried it again-same thing. This was while it was parked. I thought I'd take it for a spin around my block. (Idle isn't as rough as before but still pretty rough to where the engine shaked the exhaust pipes and I can hear it shaking where the Y pipe has the flex section attached to the engine, it rattles pretty bad when I turned it off.) When I parked it again and tried to turn it of, it stayed on...and I jiggled the key it does nothing to turn it off, so I floored it to kill it.
So it's good that it turned off before I took it for the drive, but whenever it did turn off, it rattles the exhaust.
Any ideas?
So it's good that it turned off before I took it for the drive, but whenever it did turn off, it rattles the exhaust.
Any ideas?
07-13-2009, 08:26 PM
#12
Swapped the 6 cyl coil pack with 4 cyl, reset ECU and took another ride around the block. Now I pull 2 more codes, with the same 1403 code:
0201-Primary Ignition Signal (1302, maybe my EGI harnes is ****ed up, would that short the ecu?)
and
0701-multi cyl misfire
Any help here?
0201-Primary Ignition Signal (1302, maybe my EGI harnes is ****ed up, would that short the ecu?)
and
0701-multi cyl misfire
Any help here?
Last edited by Maximeltman; 07-13-2009 at 08:49 PM.
07-13-2009, 09:41 PM
#15
I'm thinking that my EGI harness might be damaged, no? And that might have messed up the ECU.
07-13-2009, 10:29 PM
#18
asand1-I think that when engine diesels it eventually stops once the fuel inside is burned off. This keeps going until I drop the clutch or gas it to open the throttle. Thanks for the possibility though 
Exactly my thoughts.
07-14-2009, 05:54 PM
#20
Quoted from Wikipedia:
"An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter then gradually stop rather than continue running as if the engine was not switched off at all — the latter would usually indicate an electrical fault."
So my electrical is all messed up somehow...great
I'm initially waiting for a CKPS REF to come in the mail and put that on to see how it goes. I initially just threw that code p1335, but now I have all these other codes...feels kinda intimidating...
"An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter then gradually stop rather than continue running as if the engine was not switched off at all — the latter would usually indicate an electrical fault."
So my electrical is all messed up somehow...great
I'm initially waiting for a CKPS REF to come in the mail and put that on to see how it goes. I initially just threw that code p1335, but now I have all these other codes...feels kinda intimidating...
07-14-2009, 06:36 PM
#21
Okay sooo...
After swapping the coil pack from cylinder 6 to cylinder 4 and vice versa, I am still throwing a cylinder 6 misfire...which means it is misfiring for reasons other than a bad coil pack. Any ideas what could be doing this, could the harness be broken? What other possibilities?
After swapping the coil pack from cylinder 6 to cylinder 4 and vice versa, I am still throwing a cylinder 6 misfire...which means it is misfiring for reasons other than a bad coil pack. Any ideas what could be doing this, could the harness be broken? What other possibilities?
07-15-2009, 04:50 PM
#22
Okay changed the oil, there was HELLA fuel in it; it almost had the consistency of water
Put some Mobil 10w30 in it and now it runs okay, and when I take the key out it kills the engine again like it's supposed to
thanks.
Put some Mobil 10w30 in it and now it runs okay, and when I take the key out it kills the engine again like it's supposed to
thanks.
07-21-2009, 07:50 AM
#24
She ran pretty good for about 3 days, now it won't start...I remember that the last time I started her up, I had to crank the engine over about 6-7 times just to get it running..now it won't at all..
one time I had to wiggle the ecu harness to get it running, wonder whats goin on now? I pulled a 0101 camshaft sensor code. great.
So I measure infinite resistance across the sensor, so that means that the sensor is bad right? It seems so simple device I don't see how it can go bad.
Could this be the reason no start?
one time I had to wiggle the ecu harness to get it running, wonder whats goin on now? I pulled a 0101 camshaft sensor code. great.
So I measure infinite resistance across the sensor, so that means that the sensor is bad right? It seems so simple device I don't see how it can go bad.
Could this be the reason no start?
Last edited by Maximeltman; 07-21-2009 at 08:12 AM.
07-21-2009, 10:17 AM
#27
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolton, CT
Posts: 199
Okay changed the oil, there was HELLA fuel in it; it almost had the consistency of water
Put some Mobil 10w30 in it and now it runs okay, and when I take the key out it kills the engine again like it's supposed to
thanks.
Put some Mobil 10w30 in it and now it runs okay, and when I take the key out it kills the engine again like it's supposed to
thanks.
Perhaps a bit more on point, I have noticed that my ECU plug is flexible enough that if you rely on just the center bolt to draw it together the two ends bend outward and as such don't neccessarily make good contact with their respective connections. I have fixed many a code and random problem by simply pushing in the two ends of the connector to improve contact.
07-21-2009, 10:26 AM
#29
well the connection is tight so I don't think that's it. I wonder how long I had this bad camshaft sensor because the pcm never showed it on my cel before, and I just checked the codes to make sure and it was reveiled...would it be responsible?
And it ran just last night also, with the exception that it took about 6-7 cranks to start it. Now it won't start at all...
And it ran just last night also, with the exception that it took about 6-7 cranks to start it. Now it won't start at all...
07-21-2009, 10:44 PM
#30
Because I Can
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: massachusetts son
Posts: 1,723
mine does it too...
worst part, my friends honda civic key can turn my car on and off...
absolutely not what i want to happen...however...it is a kool thing because u can leave the car running take the keys lock the doors and go into a store or something
absolutely not what i want to happen...however...it is a kool thing because u can leave the car running take the keys lock the doors and go into a store or something
07-21-2009, 10:51 PM
#31
that is tight though...a locked running Maxima in front of a 7 eleven lol peeps like 
07-21-2009, 11:13 PM
#32
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: lexington ky
Posts: 46
i had this exact same problem with my 95 mustang gt! the not starting and starting then staying running its nothing major.i cant remember the exact part name its in the steering colum. damn it i cant remember the name ill think of it..... on the problem the ley issue is a broken ignition lock my girls 01 focus does the same thing...
07-21-2009, 11:32 PM
#33
not to add to the array of holy offtopicness, but my first car, a Bonneville, did something similar, but only if the headlights were on. that is, with the car running, turn the headlights on. turn the car off with the headlights on, pull the keys out and everything, and the engine would still be running, and would run like normal too. the car acted like i never pulled the key out! it would only turn off if i turned the headlights off.
whatever could have caused that problem could be causing your problem, but in another flavor. maybe some wire somewhere is chafed and is touching some ground or something, i don't know. that car is long gone, and i never figured out what it was.
hope that helps...
whatever could have caused that problem could be causing your problem, but in another flavor. maybe some wire somewhere is chafed and is touching some ground or something, i don't know. that car is long gone, and i never figured out what it was.
hope that helps...
07-22-2009, 11:20 AM
#34
ok so I got another camshaft position sensor and she fired right up!
Originally the dealership wanted $3300.00 just to fix her, I spent $78-on a new injector, and $100-for a new camshaft sensor...
$3300 Nissan? I should go back there and strangle the jerk.
Oh and apparently i had washed my cylinder that was locked, so i put a bit of oil in the spark plug hole to build up another oil seal along the wall.
Originally the dealership wanted $3300.00 just to fix her, I spent $78-on a new injector, and $100-for a new camshaft sensor...
$3300 Nissan? I should go back there and strangle the jerk.
Oh and apparently i had washed my cylinder that was locked, so i put a bit of oil in the spark plug hole to build up another oil seal along the wall.
07-22-2009, 02:46 PM
#36
Not even close, that price was for as he told me, "further diagnosis & teardown labor" and possibly that I needed a new ECU which would be an additional cost..
Well I just got home and I threw another code, a first one for me. 0412, upstream o2 high voltage fault. Maybe my electrical is ****ed after all.
Before this whole ordeal, I always had a constant 0512, downstream o2 fault...now I have an upstream.
Well I just got home and I threw another code, a first one for me. 0412, upstream o2 high voltage fault. Maybe my electrical is ****ed after all.
Before this whole ordeal, I always had a constant 0512, downstream o2 fault...now I have an upstream.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 07-22-2009 at 02:48 PM.
07-22-2009, 04:50 PM
#37
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 16
IMO you have two categories of problems- one is the electrical issue to continue to throw spark to keep running after the key is off, and the second is the fuel that dumped into your crankcase. Watch that like a hawk, b/c that's a really good way to smoke bearings- load of engine w/o sufficient oil viscosity and strenth to protect them. Sorry, but I have no answers, only to point out that I think you have two different rabbits to chase.
