burgundyblues66

Hello,
So my car doesn't start, one day fuel just stopped going to the engine. The fuel pump doesn't turn on or buzz or anything. I checked the fuel pump, it works by itself when taken out. I replaced the relay, the back still wasn't getting any power. The fuel pump connector is only getting a few volts when it should be getting 12. I dropped it off at the shop and the mechanic directly put power into the relay and the back still wasn't getting enough.

He said he is not sure what is going on but that it could be the Fuel Pump Control Module in the back. It costs something like $300 to replace, I have no idea what to do.
Anyone had a similar problem? -no fuel with a working fuel pump and working relay and working battery...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Since you've neglected to either tell us what year your car is or fill out your profile, I'll say '97.

Are you getting the FPCM code?

What sort of voltage is the fuel pump getting?

Have you tried disconnecting the FPCM yet?

Have you followed any of the FSM diagnostics?

Basically, have you tried anything related to the FPCM? That would be the next logical step, no? Especially if that's what you suspect...

burgundyblues66

Sorry about that, I have a 1996 SE 5 speed with 167k on it.

What is the code for the FPCM? I don't think its getting more than a few volts when cranking, it used to get 9v when it broke but now it doesn't even get that much.

I haven't looked into the FPCM at all since the car is in the shop, I just know what the mechanic tells me. I didn't even know there was a FPCM, I guess it's somewhere in the trunk area.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Code: P1220 | Description: Fuel Pump Control Module


9 volts (more likely 9.5, he just rounded down) is perfectly fine for just driving around:





Correct.




Without you having the car in your possession, we can only be of so much help. Him being the mechanic and all should know that he should test the FPCM, and how to (or at least how to find the procedures).

e-man69

its in the trunk compartment drivers side. pull the panel off and its bolted to the brace, just feel and look for the wires. I thought mine may be suspect as my car stumbles at around 35 to 40 mph at 1200 to 2000 rmps only. other than that the car runs fine. mine is a 96 maxima automatic. Im leaning towards the fuel pump itself. do you know or anyone else know if the fuel pump could run fine one time and not the next? when it does stumble if i kick it down and it shifts down it accelerates fine. just when i try to mildly accelerate it stumbles. Im going to clean the maf before i replace the fuel pump today and see what happens. keep posted. eric

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

you might want to clean the throttle body as well.

burgundyblues66

alright, i went to the junkyard and picked up a drop resistor and FPCM. i replaced both and the car still doesnt work. there is just not enough voltage going to the back. relay works, fuel pump works, resistor works, fpcm works.

could it be the computer? any other ideas?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Again, have you or have you not tested the voltage at every connection back to the relay?

WHERE does it stop getting B+?

Have you tested before the relay? After the relay? At the one or two connectors inline?

burgundyblues66

Ill ask the mechanic where he tested, I am not sure exactly. I don't know of any other connections besides the ones I mentioned already.