95 Maxima Doe's Not Start but cranks! HELP! plz
95 Maxima Doe's Not Start but cranks! HELP! plz
This car is a 5spd if it makes any difference. It cranks normally, but its not getting any fuel to the engine.
I have sprayed starting fluid and the car starts for a few sec.
I do not hear the fuel pump.
I have swapped the fuel pump with a working one. Still no go.
I have swapped the fuel pump relay with a working one. No go.
I have checked the fuse in the fuse box, that is fine as well.
The fuel pump harness is not oxidized.
What else can it be????
I have not tried a good fuel pump relay and good fuel pump at once yet, maybe the pump and relay are both bad.
I have sprayed starting fluid and the car starts for a few sec.
I do not hear the fuel pump.
I have swapped the fuel pump with a working one. Still no go.
I have swapped the fuel pump relay with a working one. No go.
I have checked the fuse in the fuse box, that is fine as well.
The fuel pump harness is not oxidized.
What else can it be????
I have not tried a good fuel pump relay and good fuel pump at once yet, maybe the pump and relay are both bad.
Unlikey both relay and pump are bad. There are two fuses for the fuel pump circuit F17 (10Amp) and F32 (15Amp) check both. A problem with your ignition switch can also prevent the fuel pump relay from turning on. The fuel pump relay has to turn on before the pump can turn on. Check if the relay is clicking when you turn the ingnition switch. The fuel pump relay is located behind the kick panel by the drivers left foot. I'm getting this informantion from 98 FSM, I think 95 would be the same.
yeah i don't know if the relay clicked or not ill have to listen to it. But i do know i put in a working relay to test.
Yeah the relay is in the kick panel drivers left foot.
The car's alternator went out, the car got towed and sat for almost a year until an alternator and starter got replaced.. (i am not sure if that's the correct story) I know for sure it sat for a while.
Yeah the relay is in the kick panel drivers left foot.
The car's alternator went out, the car got towed and sat for almost a year until an alternator and starter got replaced.. (i am not sure if that's the correct story) I know for sure it sat for a while.
Spark Plugs have nothing to do with it, Fuel Pump i already swapped with a working one from a working car....
Someone suggested to check alternator ground cable but idk...
I will measure the voltage on the fuel pump harness connectors.
I will swap fuel pump control module in the trunk with my working one.
Someone suggested to check alternator ground cable but idk...
I will measure the voltage on the fuel pump harness connectors.
I will swap fuel pump control module in the trunk with my working one.
Below is from the FSM, you can get access to it on the org. Should help you troubleshoot.
Fuel pump ON-OFF control
The ECM activates the fuel pump for several seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON toimprove engine start-up. If the ECM receives a 1°
signal from the crankshaft position sensor (POS), it knows that the engine is rotating, and causes the pump to activate. If the 1° signal is not received
when the ignition switch is ON, the engine stalls. The ECM stops pump operation and prevents thebattery from discharging, thereby improving safety.
The ECM does not directly drive the fuel pump. It
controls the ON/OFF fuel pump relay, which in turncontrols the fuel pump.
Condition********************** Fuel pump operation
Ignition switch is turned to ON. ***** Operates for 1 second
Engine running and cranking ********* Operates
Except as shown above************** Stops
Fuel pump ON-OFF control
The ECM activates the fuel pump for several seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON toimprove engine start-up. If the ECM receives a 1°
signal from the crankshaft position sensor (POS), it knows that the engine is rotating, and causes the pump to activate. If the 1° signal is not received
when the ignition switch is ON, the engine stalls. The ECM stops pump operation and prevents thebattery from discharging, thereby improving safety.
The ECM does not directly drive the fuel pump. It
controls the ON/OFF fuel pump relay, which in turncontrols the fuel pump.
Condition********************** Fuel pump operation
Ignition switch is turned to ON. ***** Operates for 1 second
Engine running and cranking ********* Operates
Except as shown above************** Stops
I don't know if it was available in 95, but does your car have the intelligent key? My 99.5 does, and I got a bad key when I bought it. The VIS disables the fuel system if it doesn't get the right code from your key, but it will still crank and spark. There is a procedure for reprogramming the key in the owner's manual, which I am too lazy to retrieve at the moment.
The information about it is in the FSM EC- Engine Control section
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR DTC P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) (POS)
Last edited by Nopike; Sep 18, 2009 at 07:43 AM.
Irrelevant in this context, if the fuel pump isn't even activating.
What makes you think it's a '99.5', and not a '99?
No, only '99s have NATS. It's not 'intelligent' really, it's just a simple immobilizer chip. You can't 'reprogram' the key by yourself (well period, since the key is read only; you program the NATS IMMU and ECU), you need specialized equipment.
The CKPS POS won't keep the fuel pump from priming. If it doesn't even prime when you turn the key, then there is a very small list of things it could be.
I don't know if it was available in 95, but does your car have the intelligent key? My 99.5 does, and I got a bad key when I bought it. The VIS disables the fuel system if it doesn't get the right code from your key, but it will still crank and spark. There is a procedure for reprogramming the key in the owner's manual, which I am too lazy to retrieve at the moment.
No, only '99s have NATS. It's not 'intelligent' really, it's just a simple immobilizer chip. You can't 'reprogram' the key by yourself (well period, since the key is read only; you program the NATS IMMU and ECU), you need specialized equipment.
The CKPS POS won't keep the fuel pump from priming. If it doesn't even prime when you turn the key, then there is a very small list of things it could be.
The fuel pump should have power momentarily when you turn the key to ON and when you are cranking the engine. I would check that.
Condition********************** Fuel pump operation
Ignition switch is turned to ON. ***** Operates for 1 second
Engine running and cranking ********* Operates
Except as shown above************** Stops
Condition********************** Fuel pump operation
Ignition switch is turned to ON. ***** Operates for 1 second
Engine running and cranking ********* Operates
Except as shown above************** Stops
SE-L
You and I know that the key is read-only, but the dealer phrased it as "reprogramming the key" so I figured it was a standard way of talking about it. Also, I am aware that it is not truly intelligent, but it is a chipped key which I believe is known on other vehicles (Fords I think) as intellikey or something.
And I'm feeling less lazy tonight, so I found it in the OM. Here's what it says, page 2-13:
So the system in a 99.5 can be reprogrammed without using CONSULT. But if it didn't come in the '95 Max then it's irrelevant to the issue at hand.
Edit: Also, noticing from my previous post that I failed to mention it, this was only a feature on security-equipped cars. The security indicator light, according to the next page in the manual, will remain on when the ignition switch is in the ON position if the system is malfunctioning.
No, only '99s have NATS. It's not 'intelligent' really, it's just a simple immobilizer chip. You can't 'reprogram' the key by yourself (well period, since the key is read only; you program the NATS IMMU and ECU), you need specialized equipment.
And I'm feeling less lazy tonight, so I found it in the OM. Here's what it says, page 2-13:
The Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System will not allow the engine to start without the use of the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key.
If the engine fails to start using the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key (for example, when interference is caused by another Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key, an automated toll road device or automated payment device on the key ring), restart the engine using the following procedures:
1. Leave the ignition sqitch in the ON position for approximately 5 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF or LOCK position and wait approximately 5 seconds.
3. Repeat step 1 and 2 again.
4. Restart the engine while holding the device (which may have caused the interference) separate from the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key.
If the no start condition still occurs, NISSAN recommends placing the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key on a separate key ring to avoid interference from other devices.
If the engine fails to start using the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key (for example, when interference is caused by another Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key, an automated toll road device or automated payment device on the key ring), restart the engine using the following procedures:
1. Leave the ignition sqitch in the ON position for approximately 5 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF or LOCK position and wait approximately 5 seconds.
3. Repeat step 1 and 2 again.
4. Restart the engine while holding the device (which may have caused the interference) separate from the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key.
If the no start condition still occurs, NISSAN recommends placing the registered Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System key on a separate key ring to avoid interference from other devices.
Edit: Also, noticing from my previous post that I failed to mention it, this was only a feature on security-equipped cars. The security indicator light, according to the next page in the manual, will remain on when the ignition switch is in the ON position if the system is malfunctioning.
Last edited by VQ30MPG; Sep 18, 2009 at 08:57 PM.
dont hijack the thread.
Ok so the relay does not make a clicking sound when i turn the ignition on, but the fuel pump harness is getting power on the 4 prong connector and no power on the 2 prong.
Any ideas? i am thinking ECU maybe? or bad harness?
Ok so the relay does not make a clicking sound when i turn the ignition on, but the fuel pump harness is getting power on the 4 prong connector and no power on the 2 prong.
Any ideas? i am thinking ECU maybe? or bad harness?
So? There is no official '99.5' model year.
No, it cannot. That is the procedure to clear the lock mode, not to 'reprogram' a key. Two entirely different procedures.
Incorrect. ALL '99s were equipped with NATS.
No, it cannot. That is the procedure to clear the lock mode, not to 'reprogram' a key. Two entirely different procedures.
Edit: Also, noticing from my previous post that I failed to mention it, this was only a feature on security-equipped cars. The security indicator light, according to the next page in the manual, will remain on when the ignition switch is in the ON position if the system is malfunctioning.
Have you checked for power at the FPCM? Done the FPCM diagnostics per the FSM?
Another thing you've neglected to mention, are you getting the FPCM code?
If you have a voltmeter or circuit tester check if you are getting battery voltage to the brown wire that connects to the fuel pump relay. This is voltage from the ingnition switch and it runs through fuse #17 (10 AMP). When you turn the key to on or start you should measure approx 12VDC at this spot to ground. If not there is a problem with the ignition switch, fuse# 17 or wiring.
CORRECTION: The wire is just solid brown.
I doubt your ECU is bad.
CORRECTION: The wire is just solid brown.
I doubt your ECU is bad.
Last edited by Nopike; Sep 19, 2009 at 07:36 AM.
If you want to see the circuit click on the FSM link at the bottom of Pmohr's post. For the 95 maxima it in the EC section on page EC-251. It appears that the 95 circuit is more complicated than the 98 one I was looking at but the fuel pump relay has to be turned on just the same.
I just tested the Camshaft POS and that is fine so thats out of the question.
I have 2x 95 maximas so i been swapping parts from the working on to this one to test and vice versa.
I will go measure the brown wire now to see if its a problem with the ignition. thanks
I have 2x 95 maximas so i been swapping parts from the working on to this one to test and vice versa.
I will go measure the brown wire now to see if its a problem with the ignition. thanks
Yes, Black/Purple at the ignition relay will read about 12VDC until the relay is turned on by the ECU then it should measure close to zero volts. Zero volts momentarily when ignition switch is turned on and also when the engine is cranking. This is the ECU turning on the fuel pump relay.
For more fuel pump circuit troubleshooting info use the FSM link at the bottom of Pmohr's post. For the 95 maxima it in the EC section on page EC-252.
Last edited by Nopike; Sep 19, 2009 at 10:30 AM.
at the ignition relay ?? B/P from the FPR has 0 volts when i turn the ignition on and crank. stays zero. Theres no signal coming from ECU i guess....
I also measured volts on the actual fuel pump harness and the 4 prong connector had 12 volts coming to it.... does that make sense???
I also measured volts on the actual fuel pump harness and the 4 prong connector had 12 volts coming to it.... does that make sense???
Yes at the FPR. So measuring between B/P and ground is always zero regardless of the ignition switch position? If that was the case maybe your FPR relay is bad. Pull the FPR out and try jumping pin 1 to 12VDC and pin 2 to ground, the relay should energize you should hear it click.
Ok so i shorted b/w and b/y witch gave power to the fuel pump and it does pump gas (i checked by the fuel filter by removing the hose)... car still not starting i am checking spark plugs now....... they are bosch witch from my experience are terrible for a maxima (i had them on my other maxima once and the car was acting up.. i swapped them and the car ran fine).
You may want to check the FPR signal at pin 11 of the the ECU. Maybe you have a bad connection between the ECU and the FPR??? You may want to compare the pin 11 ECU FPR signal with your working car. Pin 11 should go to approx 0V momentarily when you first turn the ignition switch to on. Shortly after that it should measure approx 12VDC (FPR off).
You may also want to check the start signal to the ECU (pin 20) should go to 12VDC when key is on start.
To check the crankshaft position sensor circuit FSM EC-219, with the ignition off check resistance between pin 72 and 49 of the ECU and pin 49 and ground. Compare the readings with your working car, they should be similar. When making and comparing these measurements make sure you put the red and black lead on the same terminals.
To check the crankshaft position sensor circuit FSM EC-219, with the ignition off check resistance between pin 72 and 49 of the ECU and pin 49 and ground. Compare the readings with your working car, they should be similar. When making and comparing these measurements make sure you put the red and black lead on the same terminals.



