weird isssue can even title this right, help me please.
 

okay so my car is having a weird issue. i go in and start the car and it didn't want to start. i kept turning it over and it would hesitate finally it turned on and then it shut off then again i turned it over and it turned on again this time it stayed on, but then when i would accelerate it it wanted to shut off again i let go of the gas and it stayed on. i then went and pop the hood and started turning the tb knob and every time i would turn the tb knob the car wanted to shut off when the air was going in. so i left it alone. came back from work right now and again kept trying to start it and it wouldnt turn finally it did let it sit for 2 minutes and next thing i hear is a whine out of no where pulley or belt area also the injectors were clicking super fast and loud. the car moved when i put it on drive but not stepping on the gas when i would try to step on the gas it wanted to shut off but the car will stay on i turned on the a/c and it stayed on. what can it be it bugged me all day i need help fast please.
Mod wise only the hack box and its never given me a problem.

What is a 'TB knob'? :scratch:

So...codes?

What is the idle at?

'Turning over' is most commonly interpreted as starting, not cranking.

It is misfiring, or just hesitating?

Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this happening?

sounds like you maf went out.

Your IACV might also be bad.

More things might be bad but we definitely need more info.

double post, sorry

TB knob is that thing next to the TB with the cables on it for acceleration

idle is above 1000

it wont crank the first few times then it does and starts

it just hesitates and struggles and when i accelerate it, it sounds like something is blocking it.

only did the oil change but that was months ago, changed the VC gasket for the oil leak that i still have even after doing everything i was suppose to and last month i did the Hack box.

Codes havent checked that yet will check right now.

okay okay so i tried to get the code and the cel stayed still wont give me anything. when i accelerate it wont pass 3k rpm it just wont go over it it hits around 2800 and comes back to 1000 also the fans are turning on when i turn the engine on it never did that before and there is a clicking noise from what sounds to be the injector in the back, ill post a video asap. can it be the fuel filter or the fuel pump???


Here are the videos

this is acceleration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVhr9Ty3mXs
this the clocking noise http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSS4nO33qEI

still wont let me check for codes i did the whole process and it wont flash

if you can't go past 3000 rpm most likely your maf
as for the clicking sound, i'd say that's normal its just the injectors mine are loud as hell too.

i was also reading on a honda site that it can also be a blockage in the exhaust. my cat conv is burned out and my flex pipe is cracked though... how can i check if its the MAF?

also on the first video what can be causing that rattle?

I had the same thing happen to me. It turned out to be the Mass Airflow Sensor. Got it changed and the EGR went. Cleaned that out, and now it's working like a...well...a 13 year old car. On the '96 Max I pulled the 4400 code which is apparently interchangeable with the EGR and the MAF.

Sounds pretty typical of a failed temp sensor as far as the starting.

Do a search and try to clean the MAF and see if that helps. The IACV (idle air control valve) isnt that hard to replace. But it most likely will be better to replace with parts from the JY rather than ebay. I hear MAFs online arent too reliable

:fro:

MAF 413.28 WWW.TXNISSANPARTS.COM NEW PART ... I RECOMMEND JUNK YARD OR NEW .... REMAN IS JUNK

[quote=Nismo32;7266376]okay okay so i tried to get the code and the cel stayed still wont give me anything. and there is a clicking noise from what sounds to be the injector in the back, /quote]

Just a wild guess, but could his cel be staying on an IAC clicking because his ecu srew is resting at the clockwise position??

video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaoqUJ9i12c

rattle and pop and still wont pass 3000 rpm. and leaking oil like a mofo still.

i reset the ecu and tried to get the code again the light is still on i know i had the inhibitor code but even that wont flash the light stays still i disconnected the battery for 30 minutes went through every connection replugged it all connected the battery cell stilll on did the process of clockwise till you pass stop wait 2-3 sec then counterclockwise looked up at the dash and the CEL would not blink still
uploading another video on this one you'll hear a pop inside the engine.

video with the pop http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liq55PXcsoM

sounds to my kinda like your ecu is shot? injectors clicking like mad because there stuck in "start mode" trying to find a pattern?

okay so today i went and got a mechanic to check it out he had the code reader o?d? II and it would not give him a code the CEL was on he ran the machine and it just said ERROR.

So he couldnt pull any codes or anything??

:confused:

Might need a new ECU bro :nervous:

yes the screw is all the way to where its suppose to be

wow, i was actually right, blown ecu.:D

okay so its not the ecu or else the car wouldnt start right? found out its the MAF so ill clean it and go from there and then found out it was the timing chain great meaning switching the water pump also. total cost with labor is 600-700 almost the same as getting another engine DE or maybe DE-K?? what path should i take... and what was that website where you can buy engines from???

Just because it starts and drives doesn't mean that the ECU isn't at fault.

How did you 'find out' that it's both the MAF and timing chain?

What website? Craigslist? eBay?

There's a junkyard inventory site, but you can't buy anything from them. car-part.com

the timing chain i know the rattle by the TC valve i had a 95 240sx se and that was the same rattle when my chain was messing up i mean it can be the TC tensioners not the actual chain itself. the MAF everyone keeps saying its that, i had 3 mechanics come check it out and they all say the reason it wont pass 3000 rpm is because of the MAF, i cleaned the MAF and the sensor and still having the issue, what else can be causing this issue can it just be the ECU that is causing all of this i really need help here. you've seen the videos i posted what else can it be that im missing. yea i was asking for that one car parts.com why cant i buy from there??? cant i call the locations it gives me and ask??

If it rattles, it's the tensioner (or possibly one of the guides). The chances of the fault being with the chain on a VQ is...unlikely.

Have you actually tested the MAF and associated parts, or are you assuming that cleaning will fix it?

Actually no, I haven't seen the videos.

You can't buy from car-part because car-part doesn't sell anything. Again, it's just a search engine.

I was gonna suggest earlier that the pop sounded like backfire from valve timing being off and the ratle sounded like valve/piston interferance. If the chain sounds loose that would add to the liklyhood.

no i have not tested the MAF. dont have a voltage reader, some say by cleaning it might help but it didnt.

okay but i can call the places it says on car-part that have the engine right? or no?

the pop was a backfire the mechanic said the clicking noise (not the rattle) might be a valve or a spring in the front.

i am going back and forth deciding whether to spend any more money on this engine which has 216,723 miles on it or go for another engine with less miles and maybe less problems.

so i just had a real mechanic come over lol. he said to double check the fuses, check the ground on the ecu and that the problem will rely on the MAF sensor. so i need to check that and order a MAF great.

Again, testing components before replacing them actually helps sometimes. But you know, minor details.

You're going to buy a new MAF, but can't spring the $5 for a cheap multimeter?

You should do a compression test to eliminate the possibility of mechanical failure, ie broken valve spring or skipped tooth.

wooo wooo wooo who said anything about new??? i dont even have the money. i just said i dont have a voltage meter not that i cant afford one.

New meaning new to you.

Then get a multimeter, and actually do some further diagnostics before just replacing the MAF to see if it fixes the problem. This is only if you mind throwing away money, that is. Otherwise, carry on.

i dont understand this http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...af-sensor.html

can someone newbie this up for me to understand??

also can it be the ground on the ECU that might be causing me not to read the codes or is it straight out blown???

got the digital meter reader thing now what i do? where do i touch. what page of the fsm

did you check the flux capacitor?

but really ...

set the meter to read dc volts

put the black stick on ground/neg term.

red stick as the instructions read

with each wire should show x amount of volts

Terminal 54 (wire color W), so the white wire engine warm and at idle should read 1.0-1.7V
At engine speed of 2,500 RPM, the signal should read 1.5-2.1V

Terminal 55 (B wire)brown wire is a ground and should not show voltage with the engine running.

Terminal 4 (W/B wire) white with brown stripis the ECCS relay with is a self shut off unit, and will actually change voltages. When the engine is just shut off, it will read 0-1V, but after a few seconds will read battery voltage ((11-14V).

Terminals 67 and 72 (wires both R)red wires is ECU power and will read battery voltage when the ignition is on.

you will want to stick the probe (red stick) in the back side of the connector(plug)

make sense?

FWIW B is black, BR is brown;
http://pics.boredmder.com/maxima.org...ire-colors.png

how the hell do i remove the ECU i cant get it out

thanks for the correction

I've found the easiest, but slightly more time consuming way is to remove the two 10mm head bolts, and slide the entire bracket, ECU, and wiring harness out at the same time.

Personally, I get at the bolts by taking out the center stack (radio, vents, clock, etc) and going straight from there to the two bolts, directly behind the HVAC plumbing. Takes ~10 minutes to do it that way.