p1336 (CKPS POS) and strange hesitation problem
#1
p1336 (CKPS POS) and strange hesitation problem
Background: I'm now 5spd swapped, running a '96 fed spec manual ECU. This issue was present with the auto ECU as well, but was not present before the swap.
I've been encountering a very strange hesitation issue with my car. In the upper RPMs and under load, the car will randomly hesitate - it feels exactly like when the car is very low on fuel and the fuel pump can't pull enough. Sometimes it will pull fine, and other times it will hasitate VERY badly. I haven't been able to find a situation where I can reproduce the problem every time, but it always occurs under heavy throttle and high RPMs.
I'm pulling a code for CKPS POS (p1336). If I clear the code and go WOT, most of the time the code will pop back up, but not until I go WOT. There are no normal drivability problems I'm aware of.
I exhausted the steps in the FSM testing procedure, and everything wiring-wise checked out. In the test for the CKPS, monitoring the voltage between wires 2&3 when presenting a screwdriver to the sensor, it says it should jump to 5v; it only jumped to 2v. Does that mean the sensor is bad?
Also, I checked the teeth on the timing ring. They're all intact. The whole ring "waves" about a millimeter back and forth; i.e., it's not perfectly flat. That shouldn't be an issue, should it?
All ideas are appreciated.
I've been encountering a very strange hesitation issue with my car. In the upper RPMs and under load, the car will randomly hesitate - it feels exactly like when the car is very low on fuel and the fuel pump can't pull enough. Sometimes it will pull fine, and other times it will hasitate VERY badly. I haven't been able to find a situation where I can reproduce the problem every time, but it always occurs under heavy throttle and high RPMs.
I'm pulling a code for CKPS POS (p1336). If I clear the code and go WOT, most of the time the code will pop back up, but not until I go WOT. There are no normal drivability problems I'm aware of.
I exhausted the steps in the FSM testing procedure, and everything wiring-wise checked out. In the test for the CKPS, monitoring the voltage between wires 2&3 when presenting a screwdriver to the sensor, it says it should jump to 5v; it only jumped to 2v. Does that mean the sensor is bad?
Also, I checked the teeth on the timing ring. They're all intact. The whole ring "waves" about a millimeter back and forth; i.e., it's not perfectly flat. That shouldn't be an issue, should it?
All ideas are appreciated.
#4
easiest way to go abt checking would be to change the sensor and reset the light, drive the car see what results you actually achieve with the new part, do that and let us know what happened?
#5
I would like to resurect this because i have same code and symptoms. Mine is a 97 auto. I just replaced my crank pulley and in the process had to hold the flywheel and am wondering if a damaged flywheel would cause the same code and problems or if my sensor has coincidently gone bad at the same time. This code is for the rear sensor. I did take it out and cleaned it real good there were a couple of metal shavings on it. Please help me if you want pics or other info please ask.
#6
I got under my car this morning and opened the small acess door and manually turned over engine to check for damage. There is damage in two spots. Is there a way to fix this other than pulling the transmission?
#8
Lost as well
How does one go about checking the signal plate? I replaced my sensor, as they seem to usually be what causes this type of problem, but the code comes back IMMEDIATELY after starting my 96 SE.
DO you just remove the very small plate at the bottom of the bell housing and have someone turn one of the tires while it's in gear?
DO you just remove the very small plate at the bottom of the bell housing and have someone turn one of the tires while it's in gear?
#10
i put the timing chain on myself. it lined back up again every 7 rotations, and after searching this forum i found that to be correct. someone please help. i need my car!!!
only thing that didn't line up again on 7th rotation was secondary chains... are they suppose to?
only thing that didn't line up again on 7th rotation was secondary chains... are they suppose to?
Last edited by develop247; 04-28-2011 at 06:31 PM.
#11
whoops wrong thread, but along the same lines. my car is throwing 1335. ref cps. it tests fine. and wireing is good too, same with ecu.
i tried another ecu, same code
i installed a used sensor off another car, still same code,
i checked ground =good
i cchecked ohms at ecu and at sensor, all pass. what am i missing???
the crank pos sensor just now came on.
car doesn't start at all. just crank, crank, crank
ps crank pulley signal plate is undamaged.
i tried another ecu, same code
i installed a used sensor off another car, still same code,
i checked ground =good
i cchecked ohms at ecu and at sensor, all pass. what am i missing???
the crank pos sensor just now came on.
car doesn't start at all. just crank, crank, crank
ps crank pulley signal plate is undamaged.
Last edited by develop247; 04-28-2011 at 06:29 PM.
#12
whoops wrong thread, but along the same lines. my car is throwing 1335. ref cps. it tests fine. and wireing is good too, same with ecu.
i tried another ecu, same code
i installed a used sensor off another car, still same code,
i checked ground =good
i cchecked ohms at ecu and at sensor, all pass. what am i missing???
the crank pos sensor just now came on.
car doesn't start at all. just crank, crank, crank
ps crank pulley signal plate is undamaged.
i tried another ecu, same code
i installed a used sensor off another car, still same code,
i checked ground =good
i cchecked ohms at ecu and at sensor, all pass. what am i missing???
the crank pos sensor just now came on.
car doesn't start at all. just crank, crank, crank
ps crank pulley signal plate is undamaged.
Also, I don't know if these Crank Position Sensors are magnetic or not(never really looked at them) but if they are make sure u use a brass(not magnetic) feeler gauge so ur reading doesn't get messed up.
Last edited by T-Mon3y; 04-28-2011 at 08:49 PM.
#13
they are magnetic, and i dont know how anyone would be able to get a feeler gauge in there. once the sensor is mounted, the only other access point is at the bottom far from the sensor. the code comes back as the cps near the crank pulley and i checked ohm values for metal going past and values change. i'm lost. no idea what can be causing this to be acting all weird. i thought it was the timing that was off before, i reset it numerous times. bout to drop it off at dealer if i dont come up with a solution within the week.
#14
six years later
My 95 is doing the same thing. Has there been any solutions in the past years i could try? To clarify, the ckp ref code came up, p1335. replaced it, check the wire harnesses with multimeter. cleared code. drove for a while and the code came back. Did a round two on it; bought a new sensor checked the wires, cleared the codes and drove it. That day it came back.
Im also having an issue with a hard start on a rested/cold engine. Ive cleaned the tbc and iac, put in a new fuel filter, new coil packs, plugs and fuel injectors, cleaned the maf, cleaned the egr, new knock sensor, new battery, checked my ground wires. I guess im at a loss.
it did look like there was a bit of oil and crud around the wire harness connection i blew it out with electrical spray and tested it for continuity. passed the test but do you think the signal could come and go cause of the oil?
What am i missing? Anyone have any suggestions? Im ready to drive it in the lake and call it quits
170,000 miles, 1995 gle, automatic, extreme rust, midwest weather conditions. just got the car two months ago
Im also having an issue with a hard start on a rested/cold engine. Ive cleaned the tbc and iac, put in a new fuel filter, new coil packs, plugs and fuel injectors, cleaned the maf, cleaned the egr, new knock sensor, new battery, checked my ground wires. I guess im at a loss.
it did look like there was a bit of oil and crud around the wire harness connection i blew it out with electrical spray and tested it for continuity. passed the test but do you think the signal could come and go cause of the oil?
What am i missing? Anyone have any suggestions? Im ready to drive it in the lake and call it quits
170,000 miles, 1995 gle, automatic, extreme rust, midwest weather conditions. just got the car two months ago
#15
Here's a thread on p1335 below.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...335-error.html
Specifically, note this post below. Can you tell us where you got the replacement sensor?
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post7588243
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...335-error.html
Specifically, note this post below. Can you tell us where you got the replacement sensor?
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post7588243
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