Ebay sells a control arm, sway bar, tie rod kit, is it any good??
ok so theres that kit on ebay. includes control arms and all the bushings, tie rods, inner and outter and sway bar endlinks, has anyone bought this kit? its a real good deal.
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You might want to post the link to the auction, so people can see what you are talking about lol
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make sure they are oem, I have inner and outer tie rods from ebay and they are good exact same as originals
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for important suspension parts like these....dont ebay it
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stay away from it. a few months ago i put the kit on my maxima ( LCA,TIE RODS), there's been this creaking, popping noise i'm trying to hunt down but i'm almost positive its the lower control arm moving around. go on rockauto, you can get what you need at a similar price.
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:sprint: for rockauto to be on the safe side
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I'm still buyin them from there, I'm not spending $100 more, worse comes to worse I'll just fix my stock bushings (has worn out control arm bushings).
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i just got tie rods and ball joint from ebay, but i think i dont need them because i fixed my shaking steering wheel by changing wheels... so if someone need them its avalaible,
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http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ better than rock auto anyday
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The parts from the worldsuspension store on ebay should be fine. I've never heard anybody say anything bad about them. And, personal experience, their customer service is fantastic!
Make sure you go through ALL their listings though. Sometimes they have the same thing listed more than once but one posting may be cheaper. |
:sprint: worldsuspension
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Originally Posted by aackshun
(Post 7637109)
I'm still buyin them from there, I'm not spending $100 more, worse comes to worse I'll just fix my stock bushings (has worn out control arm bushings).
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I'm rocking Ebay LCA's, inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, and sway bar links, same package deal sounds like,
my review, everything fit well, very cheap, but I have only a year on my parts, the joints are showing a little premature wear, and the ebay bushings wont last, (I replaced all mine with ES) they work just fine however, and I'm fine with paying the cheap price for a cheaper product, as for the LCA itself, its a piece of stamped metal, the quality will be the same anywhere it comes from, and if you have worries to those who warn about the ball joint falling out or separating due to being cheap... don't worry, that's not a concern, they are build and assembled properly, pressed in and circlipped, the joints won't spontaneously separate, you will have ALOT of warning before something that catastophic |
they are total garbage.. do not buy them we had a long thread about this a while ago..
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Originally Posted by f550maranello2
(Post 7638056)
they are total garbage.. do not buy them we had a long thread about this a while ago..
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I think the OP is talking about this kit sold by suspensionpartswarehouse ($106.95 SHIPPED). Sounds too good to be true and is very tempting since i have some ES busings laying around... All I need are the two LCAs and at this price the pair of LCAs alone are worth it...
So, anyone using this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT |
Originally Posted by PhillyDonut
(Post 7638784)
I think the OP is talking about this kit sold by suspensionpartswarehouse ($106.95 SHIPPED). Sounds too good to be true and is very tempting since i have some ES busings laying around... All I need are the two LCAs and at this price the pair of LCAs alone are worth it...
So, anyone using this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT |
rockauto sells the mevotech lcas less than 50 a piece...do yourself a favor and buy those instead.
and theres a 5% discount as well.. |
I recently purchased one of these "kits" from Ebay and this is what I experienced;
I came pretty close to getting the cheapest kit I could find but after reading feedback from others here on the Org I thought better of it. The kit I bought was $175 with free shipping. I also seized the opportunity to replace the front struts while I was at it (Monroe Quick Struts). I won't put in all the boring details here but the results are as follows; After getting all the parts in I noticed a definite clunk when the left suspension would load, then unload. It didn't seem to happen all the time, however I could make it do it at will by swerving back and forth down the road as if I were going through a slalom course. At first I thought it was the new sway bar links because I noticed when I installed them that the bushings did not have much compression. I even notified the vendor about the bushing thing, he found it unusual but he was willing to send me another. I figured there was nothing wrong with the links per se so I went about seeing if I could just up the compression so I could be sure that the sway bar link was not hitting the sway bar. I'll fast forward a bit here and tell you what I ended up installing was a set of ES bushings I found at Advance Auto. These bushings were not intended for my sway bar so I had to modify them a bit but when I was done I was very secure in the knowledge that the links could not possibly touch the sway bar. So then came my next test drive and what do ya know, CLUNK! As a diagnostic tool earlier I had been disconnecting both ends of the sway bar and listening for out of place noises. I had noticed that they would almost completely disappear with the sway bar disconnected. Once and awhile I would hear something which I attributed to the sway bar turning and running into the control arms. Anyway, I was about to run that same test when I decided to check out one other thing which my prior experiences have told me could happen. Sure enough my suspiscion was correct, it was the balljoint! The balljoint itself was fine, very tight in fact, however there was about 3mm of play where it presses into the control arm. In fact with a bit of prying I could make it go up and down at will. I have pressed in balljoints myself in a Mazda 626 which I owned before the Max and I ran into this exact problem. If the balljoints aren't pressed in just right, they tend to stretch out the hole in the control arm and in no time it starts shucking back and forth. I tried several times and it never got better, I ended up welding the joints in. It's interesting to note here that the original Mazda joints did not use a circlip on the topside, it was all press. The replacement joints did come with a circlip but I thought it was just for safety. Anyway, back to the Max. Now I'm not sure if OEM control arms come with circlips or not but my old CAs had them which is one of the reasons I didn't trust them in the first place. So I took the circlip off of one of my old balljoints and used it as a spacer between the balljoint flange and the control arm. I squeezed a few drops of Loctite 609 into the interface for good measure and, low and behold, NO MORE CLUNK!!!!! Sorry for the lengthy post but I have been reading about other peoples mysterious clunking noises and I was hoping this might be the answer they were looking for. If anyones' interested, I took a video of the magical moving balljoint and could post it for all to see. I think, ideally, the extra circlip should have been put above the control arm but that would have required removing it again but at least the flange would have been in its correct position, intimate with the bottom of the control arm. |
Originally Posted by jdooley
(Post 7638862)
I recently purchased one of these "kits" from Ebay and this is what I experienced;
I came pretty close to getting the cheapest kit I could find but after reading feedback from others here on the Org I thought better of it. The kit I bought was $175 with free shipping. I also seized the opportunity to replace the front struts while I was at it (Monroe Quick Struts). I won't put in all the boring details here but the results are as follows; After getting all the parts in I noticed a definite clunk when the left suspension would load, then unload. It didn't seem to happen all the time, however I could make it do it at will by swerving back and forth down the road as if I were going through a slalom course. At first I thought it was the new sway bar links because I noticed when I installed them that the bushings did not have much compression. I even notified the vendor about the bushing thing, he found it unusual but he was willing to send me another. I figured there was nothing wrong with the links per se so I went about seeing if I could just up the compression so I could be sure that the sway bar link was not hitting the sway bar. I'll fast forward a bit here and tell you what I ended up installing was a set of ES bushings I found at Advance Auto. These bushings were not intended for my sway bar so I had to modify them a bit but when I was done I was very secure in the knowledge that the links could not possibly touch the sway bar. So then came my next test drive and what do ya know, CLUNK! As a diagnostic tool earlier I had been disconnecting both ends of the sway bar and listening for out of place noises. I had noticed that they would almost completely disappear with the sway bar disconnected. Once and awhile I would hear something which I attributed to the sway bar turning and running into the control arms. Anyway, I was about to run that same test when I decided to check out one other thing which my prior experiences have told me could happen. Sure enough my suspiscion was correct, it was the balljoint! The balljoint itself was fine, very tight in fact, however there was about 3mm of play where it presses into the control arm. In fact with a bit of prying I could make it go up and down at will. I have pressed in balljoints myself in a Mazda 626 which I owned before the Max and I ran into this exact problem. If the balljoints aren't pressed in just right, they tend to stretch out the hole in the control arm and in no time it starts shucking back and forth. I tried several times and it never got better, I ended up welding the joints in. It's interesting to note here that the original Mazda joints did not use a circlip on the topside, it was all press. The replacement joints did come with a circlip but I thought it was just for safety. Anyway, back to the Max. Now I'm not sure if OEM control arms come with circlips or not but my old CAs had them which is one of the reasons I didn't trust them in the first place. So I took the circlip off of one of my old balljoints and used it as a spacer between the balljoint flange and the control arm. I squeezed a few drops of Loctite 609 into the interface for good measure and, low and behold, NO MORE CLUNK!!!!! Sorry for the lengthy post but I have been reading about other peoples mysterious clunking noises and I was hoping this might be the answer they were looking for. If anyones' interested, I took a video of the magical moving balljoint and could post it for all to see. I think, ideally, the extra circlip should have been put above the control arm but that would have required removing it again but at least the flange would have been in its correct position, intimate with the bottom of the control arm. |
Sorry Shady.:D
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Originally Posted by jdooley
(Post 7638862)
........ If anyones' interested, I took a video of the magical moving balljoint and could post it for all to see.
I think, ideally, the extra circlip should have been put above the control arm but that would have required removing it again but at least the flange would have been in its correct position, intimate with the bottom of the control arm. I'll need to check the ball joint next. |
OK, here's the video I promised. Hope you have a strong stomach. The camera moved a little right at the moment of movement so it might look like a bad edit but I was holding the camera and operating the jack with my foot. The car is on jackstands and I am lifting up on the control arm.
http://s800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ljointfail.mp4 |
humm intersting i might get this from e-bay
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Originally Posted by jdooley
(Post 7640591)
OK, here's the video I promised. Hope you have a strong stomach. The camera moved a little right at the moment of movement so it might look like a bad edit but I was holding the camera and operating the jack with my foot. The car is on jackstands and I am lifting up on the control arm.
http://s800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ljointfail.mp4 |
Originally Posted by max ride 41
(Post 7640623)
do it over, cant tell squat from that
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Originally Posted by eFLO
(Post 7640640)
i can see it easily...
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Originally Posted by max ride 41
(Post 7640646)
umm, who cares?????
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i'm just sayin, you must be blind
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alright man, so basically its a alright kit if you make sure the balljoints in right when you get the kit thank you
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Originally Posted by jdooley
(Post 7640591)
OK, here's the video I promised. Hope you have a strong stomach. The camera moved a little right at the moment of movement so it might look like a bad edit but I was holding the camera and operating the jack with my foot. The car is on jackstands and I am lifting up on the control arm.
http://s800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ljointfail.mp4 As for as suspension parts I would only purchase OEM parts on ebay. I just purchased these 2 OEM sway bar end links for only $3.94 on eaby: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...SA:MOTORS:1123 I'll replace the 2 moog end links with these OEMs end links and see if that solves this clicking noise. |
Originally Posted by jdooley
(Post 7638925)
Sorry Shady.:D
shady jus being shady :p |
Originally Posted by speedofsalt32
(Post 7641016)
alright man, so basically its a alright kit if you make sure the balljoints in right when you get the kit thank you
I really think the way to go is to shim out any gap between the circlip and the control arm. By doing that, it cannot move. |
BTW, here's a shot of my "fix" using a circlip from the old control arm.
Does someone out there know if OEM CAs have a circlip (snapring) on them? http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...IMG_0309_1.jpg |
oh yeah, wonderful thanks man, my control arms have the c-clip at the top, it it possible to slam it in further,and then install that clip up top?
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The top is where it belongs, the picture shows the additional one that I was able to squeeze into the gap between the CA and BJ. You should check that the balljoint flange is all the way against the CA and then see how much gap there is between the CA and the snapring that you do have. If the gap looks large enough, you can put the snapring from the old CA UNDER the new one (from the top). The added snapring will be "overstretched" but it's only in there as a filler not a retainer.
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Well to the OP's question...
There are some peope who get Ebay parts and do fine--or dont know they have aproblem and think they are fine. I have refurbed countless and I do mean countless Control Arms. most of the Chinese stuff has quality issues. Th ebiggest is the ball joints. I have almost never seen an Ebay arm hold a new balljoint. i would get parts from rockauto. You can get away with the ebay stuff if you were going to sell your car in a week. If you are goingto drive it get decent stuff. |
As others have written above, the ebay ball joints are poor quality. If you plan to keep your car, don't waste your time and money on them.
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