Paining the Rims
12-03-2010, 07:27 PM
#1
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Location: Denver, CO
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Paining the Rims
Well, I'm painting my rims tomorrow. Going from a bright silverish to gunmetal grey. Im using the rattle can method, using Duplicolor Primer, Wheel Paint and Clear Coat. Planning on using 600, 1200, and 2000 grit sand paper to wet sand the rims. Some isopropyl alcohol to clean them before paining as well. Ill take pictures and make a semi write up.
12-03-2010, 07:39 PM
#3
That all sounds good but you don't really need to work up to 2000 grit before painting. I'd sand the rims with 400 and wetsand with 600, clean them, primer them, then wet sand with 600 again, spray 3-4 coats (start light then get a little heavier with each coat, wait about 30 mins between coats), wetsand again with 600, clear with 3-4 coats (start light and get a little heavier again with each coat), wetsand at the end with 2000 grit and polish the **** out of them.
12-03-2010, 08:37 PM
#4
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As high res as my Blackberry will allow haha, which is actually pretty decent. 
And you think 400 grit Chris? I think 600 is enough to rough up the current (but old) clear coat on the rims. These rims are from the 90s but have been taken good care of.
That all sounds good but you don't really need to work up to 2000 grit before painting. I'd sand the rims with 400 and wetsand with 600, clean them, primer them, then wet sand with 600 again, spray 3-4 coats (start light then get a little heavier with each coat, wait about 30 mins between coats), wetsand again with 600, clear with 3-4 coats (start light and get a little heavier again with each coat), wetsand at the end with 2000 grit and polish the **** out of them.
12-03-2010, 10:07 PM
#5
That all sounds good but you don't really need to work up to 2000 grit before painting. I'd sand the rims with 600 and wetsand with 800, clean them, primer them, then wet sand with 800 again, spray 3-4 coats (start light then get a little heavier with each coat, wait about 30 mins between coats), wetsand again with 800, clear with 3-4 coats (start light and get a little heavier again with each coat), wetsand at the end with 2000 grit and polish the **** out of them.
12-04-2010, 06:47 PM
#7
That all sounds good but you don't really need to work up to 2000 grit before painting. I'd sand the rims with 400 and wetsand with 600, clean them, primer them, then wet sand with 600 again, spray 3-4 coats (start light then get a little heavier with each coat, wait about 30 mins between coats), wetsand again with 600, clear with 3-4 coats (start light and get a little heavier again with each coat), wetsand at the end with 2000 grit and polish the **** out of them.
Thanks for the tutorial Chris!
Last edited by jholley; 12-04-2010 at 07:04 PM.
12-04-2010, 07:25 PM
#8
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Update:
So we sanded the wheels down to the bare. We primed them, and painted, and cleared them. Guess we didnt wait enough between coats because when we put the rims on the car it sorta just fell off. Like we could brush it off like it was dust.
So were sanding them again tomorrow and restarting. Gonna paint them gloss black now.
So we sanded the wheels down to the bare. We primed them, and painted, and cleared them. Guess we didnt wait enough between coats because when we put the rims on the car it sorta just fell off. Like we could brush it off like it was dust.
So were sanding them again tomorrow and restarting. Gonna paint them gloss black now.
12-05-2010, 05:30 PM
#9
That all sounds good but you don't really need to work up to 2000 grit before painting. I'd sand the rims with 400 and wetsand with 600, clean them, primer them, then wet sand with 600 again, spray 3-4 coats (start light then get a little heavier with each coat, wait about 30 mins between coats), wetsand again with 600, clear with 3-4 coats (start light and get a little heavier again with each coat), wetsand at the end with 2000 grit and polish the **** out of them.
It was sprayed over again, with clear..
12-05-2010, 08:16 PM
#12
umm you always wetsand the base coat therefore you get an even smooth finish coat. wouldnt make sense to leave it all bumpy and orange peel like
you did the steps correctly you just need to let the wheels dry longer or else they will stay soft and as you said almost peel off. this cold weather doesnt help out either
12-06-2010, 10:20 AM
#13
what? no. youre not supposed to wetsand your basecoat, unless youre respraying your basecoat. basecoat should not have any orange peel? its a very thin layer. the only thing youre supposed to wetsand is your primer and clear coat? your basecoat will be as smooth as your make the primer underneith it. i paint for a living and went to school for it so i dunno what you guys are talkin about. if you wetsand your basecoat youre just putting scratches in your color, which will show through your clearcoat...
12-06-2010, 02:30 PM
#15
When I painted my grill, I wet sanded after primer, after paint, and after clear. Everyone thinks a shop painted my grill.
FWIW the rattle can method takes more work than using an air sprayer, so to make a good finished product it takes more elbow grease to look good
Edit. my lip kit was done the same way with satin black.
FWIW the rattle can method takes more work than using an air sprayer, so to make a good finished product it takes more elbow grease to look good
Edit. my lip kit was done the same way with satin black.
12-07-2010, 01:57 PM
#17
12-08-2010, 04:17 PM
#21
what? no. youre not supposed to wetsand your basecoat, unless youre respraying your basecoat. basecoat should not have any orange peel? its a very thin layer. the only thing youre supposed to wetsand is your primer and clear coat? your basecoat will be as smooth as your make the primer underneith it. i paint for a living and went to school for it so i dunno what you guys are talkin about. if you wetsand your basecoat youre just putting scratches in your color, which will show through your clearcoat...
you're absolutly correct and i understand baucause i paint as well, but there is a difference between rattle can and using a gun. guess i just always sand rattle can vs leaving the base alone using a gun.
i sanded this covers base color then cleared over. no scratches ask TheLaw how it turned out
but seriously though you're right about the basecoat
12-08-2010, 04:21 PM
#22
After degreasing and sanding the caliper and brackets I painted them alone. The pads are dark so they leave markings on those thick discs. I also was sloppy when I heavily greased the guide pins, pad clip-ons, and caliper piston.
I need to replace the LCA I installed last weekend. This cheap $42 LCA I baught from EBAY was poor. The mounting bracket for the sway bar link was too far off. When I install the Mevotech LCA next weekend I'll give those discs a cleaning.
I need to replace the LCA I installed last weekend. This cheap $42 LCA I baught from EBAY was poor. The mounting bracket for the sway bar link was too far off. When I install the Mevotech LCA next weekend I'll give those discs a cleaning
.
12-08-2010, 06:39 PM
#23
12-09-2010, 11:52 AM
#25
Its not like there is a chemical change when you sand
12-10-2010, 07:10 PM
#28
you're absolutly correct and i understand baucause i paint as well, but there is a difference between rattle can and using a gun. guess i just always sand rattle can vs leaving the base alone using a gun.
i sanded this covers base color then cleared over. no scratches ask TheLaw how it turned out but seriously though you're right about the basecoat
i sanded this covers base color then cleared over. no scratches ask TheLaw how it turned out
but seriously though you're right about the basecoat
Might be more expensive, but it'll hold up longer.
12-11-2010, 04:52 AM
#30
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