car won't shift into gear
#3
You really need to give us more information. (Have you searched this issue? I doubt you have...)
AT or MT? (MT does not have a cable.)
Is the car running?
Is the clutch disengaging? (have you verified at the slave)
What sounds do you hear when you try to shift into gear.
What does the shift lever feel like?
It could be anything from your shift forks, spun gears, broken teeth, to something as simple as your shift linkage.
The tq bar that runs from your engine/transaxle to your shifter mount has a week spot. Check where that bar flattens into the mount above the tranny. There is 1 heat shield you will have to remove. Pretty easy; 5 minutes?
That last bit of info is just a generality or shot in the dark. Really without giving more details about test parameters anyone who gives you an answer is guessing.
AT or MT? (MT does not have a cable.)
Is the car running?
Is the clutch disengaging? (have you verified at the slave)
What sounds do you hear when you try to shift into gear.
What does the shift lever feel like?
It could be anything from your shift forks, spun gears, broken teeth, to something as simple as your shift linkage.
The tq bar that runs from your engine/transaxle to your shifter mount has a week spot. Check where that bar flattens into the mount above the tranny. There is 1 heat shield you will have to remove. Pretty easy; 5 minutes?
That last bit of info is just a generality or shot in the dark. Really without giving more details about test parameters anyone who gives you an answer is guessing.
#5
how does the clutch pedal feel? stiff ? did you check the fluid in the master cylinder resivor ? if those check out then make sure your slave cylinder is workin have some sit in the car and push the clutch u should see it moving if no it more than likely some thing internal ie. clutch , pressure plate , throw out bearing or clutch fork check these out and get back to us
the area circled in red is the slave location and fork
the area circled in red is the slave location and fork
Last edited by luke95gxe; 01-21-2011 at 05:45 AM.
#6
I want to help you bro but you are not giving me much to work on.
Please read and answer ALL the questions. FYI - Best if you quote the original poster, number your responses, restate/rephrase the question, or at minimum make sure that your answers directly correlate to the questions asked [in numerical order and amount].
To help…
1) Is there a difference in whether you can get the vehicle into gear when the engine is running vs not running?
2) When you push in the clutch pedal is it disengaging the clutch? (You should hear a slight difference in tone from the throw-out bearing.) Have someone help you verify by watching the clutch slave push the clutch engagement arm. It should fully disengage the clutch... if you are not sure use a crowbar to ‘help’ it.
3) When you try to put it in gear does it make any sounds that you are not used to hearing? (Be as specific as possible – engine on / engine off.)
4) Does the shift lever (stick) feel loose at all? When you move the level can you feel the linkage move? Have someone verify visually. (Did you check the linkage as I directed you to AFTER doing the above?)
5) When you push the cluch pedal in is there feed back? Does the pedal come back up to the 'rest' position by itself or does it stay on the floor?
Do not be frustrated. If you can follow directions we can help. If you are just going to post subjective information about the situation, you will get more help from a mechanic. (I am sure he will enjoy taking your money.)
Please read and answer ALL the questions. FYI - Best if you quote the original poster, number your responses, restate/rephrase the question, or at minimum make sure that your answers directly correlate to the questions asked [in numerical order and amount].
To help…
1) Is there a difference in whether you can get the vehicle into gear when the engine is running vs not running?
2) When you push in the clutch pedal is it disengaging the clutch? (You should hear a slight difference in tone from the throw-out bearing.) Have someone help you verify by watching the clutch slave push the clutch engagement arm. It should fully disengage the clutch... if you are not sure use a crowbar to ‘help’ it.
3) When you try to put it in gear does it make any sounds that you are not used to hearing? (Be as specific as possible – engine on / engine off.)
4) Does the shift lever (stick) feel loose at all? When you move the level can you feel the linkage move? Have someone verify visually. (Did you check the linkage as I directed you to AFTER doing the above?)
5) When you push the cluch pedal in is there feed back? Does the pedal come back up to the 'rest' position by itself or does it stay on the floor?
Do not be frustrated. If you can follow directions we can help. If you are just going to post subjective information about the situation, you will get more help from a mechanic. (I am sure he will enjoy taking your money.)
#7
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I want to help you bro but you are not giving me much to work on.
Please read and answer ALL the questions. FYI - Best if you quote the original poster, number your responses, restate/rephrase the question, or at minimum make sure that your answers directly correlate to the questions asked [in numerical order and amount].
To help…
1) Is there a difference in whether you can get the vehicle into gear when the engine is running vs not running?
2) When you push in the clutch pedal is it disengaging the clutch? (You should hear a slight difference in tone from the throw-out bearing.) Have someone help you verify by watching the clutch slave push the clutch engagement arm. It should fully disengage the clutch... if you are not sure use a crowbar to ‘help’ it.
3) When you try to put it in gear does it make any sounds that you are not used to hearing? (Be as specific as possible – engine on / engine off.)
4) Does the shift lever (stick) feel loose at all? When you move the level can you feel the linkage move? Have someone verify visually. (Did you check the linkage as I directed you to AFTER doing the above?)
5) When you push the cluch pedal in is there feed back? Does the pedal come back up to the 'rest' position by itself or does it stay on the floor?
Do not be frustrated. If you can follow directions we can help. If you are just going to post subjective information about the situation, you will get more help from a mechanic. (I am sure he will enjoy taking your money.)
Please read and answer ALL the questions. FYI - Best if you quote the original poster, number your responses, restate/rephrase the question, or at minimum make sure that your answers directly correlate to the questions asked [in numerical order and amount].
To help…
1) Is there a difference in whether you can get the vehicle into gear when the engine is running vs not running?
2) When you push in the clutch pedal is it disengaging the clutch? (You should hear a slight difference in tone from the throw-out bearing.) Have someone help you verify by watching the clutch slave push the clutch engagement arm. It should fully disengage the clutch... if you are not sure use a crowbar to ‘help’ it.
3) When you try to put it in gear does it make any sounds that you are not used to hearing? (Be as specific as possible – engine on / engine off.)
4) Does the shift lever (stick) feel loose at all? When you move the level can you feel the linkage move? Have someone verify visually. (Did you check the linkage as I directed you to AFTER doing the above?)
5) When you push the cluch pedal in is there feed back? Does the pedal come back up to the 'rest' position by itself or does it stay on the floor?
Do not be frustrated. If you can follow directions we can help. If you are just going to post subjective information about the situation, you will get more help from a mechanic. (I am sure he will enjoy taking your money.)
1. The car goes into all gears while off
2. I'll get back to you cause I'm alone now.
3. Sounds fine
4. Feels fine
5. It comes back up like it always did.
#8
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Ok guys something strange just happened. I put the car into 1st gear while off. I then turn the ignition on while I had the clutch pedal pressed. The car jerked forward (like when one turns it on while in gear) and I heard a pop. It popped my shifter into neutral. But guess what? All is normal again o_O my car is running and now I could shift into gears :-)
Last edited by shook187; 01-21-2011 at 08:05 AM.
#10
My car and my friend car was the same problem. You have to bleed the hell out of the clutch. Top off brake fluid in the master cylinder and then place a bottle with a hose sticking out of it over the bleeder just like how you bleed the brakes. The person inside make sure the pedal is all the way up, other person crack open the bleeder, person inside press down the clutch with your hand and hold it down, other person close the bleeder, person inside pump the clutch with their hand for about 1- 2 mins. Do this procedure to the top bleeder several times and then the bottom bleeder a lot of times topping off the clutch master cylinder and making sure fluid is in it at all times. After you start feeling pressure, start car and see if it goes in gear which it should. Then bleed a few more times and lock the bleeders back up tight. Make sure you don't pump until the bleeder is closed back tight. You should also inspect the clutch hose for any sweating because that tends to bust a whole after a while. To diagnose that, top off the master cylinder, pump the clutch while the other person see if the fluid is staying in the master cylinder and if it's not check the hose for leaks.
#11
okay guys now im still having trouble with m ine though i just did my stage 4 clutch and it wont go into gear we adjusted the clutch peddle and it seemed to work we drove it for awhile it was hard to get into gear and when i would it would shake than when we got to the bank it stopped working i had to drive car all the way back in 1st gear cause i can only get into gear when car is off. slave and master are new and fluid is good and slave is bleed so wats the problem???
also clutch has full pressure
also clutch has full pressure
#12
okay guys now im still having trouble with m ine though i just did my stage 4 clutch and it wont go into gear we adjusted the clutch peddle and it seemed to work we drove it for awhile it was hard to get into gear and when i would it would shake than when we got to the bank it stopped working i had to drive car all the way back in 1st gear cause i can only get into gear when car is off. slave and master are new and fluid is good and slave is bleed so wats the problem???
also clutch has full pressure
also clutch has full pressure
when i would it would shake... Sounds like chatter. Thats normal with a high performance clutch, you cant feather them at low rpm. higher Rs and quicker engagement. Sorry to say your shifting issues sound like installer error. Re-bleed and check. Yuo might have to tear down nand inspect everything. Check TO bearing, and clutch fork. Clutch chatter could have destroyed your trans too.
#13
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okay guys now im still having trouble with m ine though i just did my stage 4 clutch and it wont go into gear we adjusted the clutch peddle and it seemed to work we drove it for awhile it was hard to get into gear and when i would it would shake than when we got to the bank it stopped working i had to drive car all the way back in 1st gear cause i can only get into gear when car is off. slave and master are new and fluid is good and slave is bleed so wats the problem???
also clutch has full pressure
also clutch has full pressure
#14
okay guys now im still having trouble with m ine though i just did my stage 4 clutch and it wont go into gear we adjusted the clutch peddle and it seemed to work we drove it for awhile it was hard to get into gear and when i would it would shake than when we got to the bank it stopped working i had to drive car all the way back in 1st gear cause i can only get into gear when car is off. slave and master are new and fluid is good and slave is bleed so wats the problem???
also clutch has full pressure
also clutch has full pressure
#15
i know i didnt need the stage 4 but i will go boosted one day and the price diff between stage 3 and 4 was so little i just went big so i wouldnt have to replace later .
install is fine i drove it for alittle and it works perfect
the chatter is diff from this i know the chatter but im saying when im driving at like 40 mph when ever i put it into gear it will start shaking until let off clutch
could it be that my slave cylnder just maybe isnt strong enough and need a stronger one or should i try to down grade on my clutch to a stage 2 pressure plate with 6 puck disc???
and thanks for the thread bro ha i need my car running ha
install is fine i drove it for alittle and it works perfect
the chatter is diff from this i know the chatter but im saying when im driving at like 40 mph when ever i put it into gear it will start shaking until let off clutch
could it be that my slave cylnder just maybe isnt strong enough and need a stronger one or should i try to down grade on my clutch to a stage 2 pressure plate with 6 puck disc???
and thanks for the thread bro ha i need my car running ha
#16
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Ok so my car no longer shifts again while on only while the car is off. I already verified the clutch slave is working and moving when I hit the clutch. The clutch pedal does feels lower. What else could it be? Anyones opinion will be appreciated
#17
clutch system is slave, master, and lines. If u dont have a leak then its either slave or master broken. they 50 bucks each. replace em both. Also, a stage 4 clutch is a heavier disk. U may want to downgrade to stage 2.
U shd ask teh boosted guys what clutch they running. Either Flava 24/7 or The Wizard.
U shd ask teh boosted guys what clutch they running. Either Flava 24/7 or The Wizard.
#18
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clutch system is slave, master, and lines. If u dont have a leak then its either slave or master broken. they 50 bucks each. replace em both. Also, a stage 4 clutch is a heavier disk. U may want to downgrade to stage 2.
U shd ask teh boosted guys what clutch they running. Either Flava 24/7 or The Wizard.
U shd ask teh boosted guys what clutch they running. Either Flava 24/7 or The Wizard.
I'm the OP, I have a OEM clutch and disk. Also what do you mean by master?
#19
1 The clutch fork may be broken near the pivot.
2 Clutch disk hub spring may be broken and caught between disk and pressure plate.
For some reason the clutch is not disengaging. If you see the slave cylinder pushing, its something in the bell housing. Im guessing #2 since your condition is intermittent.
#20
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Well as it turns out the car needs to have the clutch replaced. So now I'm shopping for a cheap clutch kit. While I'm at it I'll replace both the slave and the master. There goes my pay check :-(
#21
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Well as it turns out the car needs to have the clutch replaced. So now I'm shopping for a cheap clutch kit. While I'm at it I'll replace both the slave and the master. There goes my pay check :-(
#22
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Well as it turns out the car needs to have the clutch replaced. So now I'm shopping for a cheap clutch kit. While I'm at it I'll replace both the slave and the master. There goes my pay check :-(
#23
Shook187... You have no idea what you are doing. You clearly want a pat on the back, pseudo fixes, and to throw money at your car. You will not get any of the aforementioned from me.
1) You have a problem that was NEVER FIXED.
2) You believe PFM is the solution to car issues.
3) You think (I have no idea why) the ‘clutch’ is the problem.
4) You are putting “cheap” parts into your car?
5) You completely ignore sound advice.
Is there something you are not telling us? If not, the ‘clutch’ can not be your problem.
Furthermore I am willing to bet that you do not even know HOW to verify that the slave is working. (Especially since you do not even know what a ‘master’ is.)
I guess asand1’s post meant nothing to you? Ignore more good advice IMO. I am sure your local mechanic will be happy to take your money. When you are ready to figure out the real problem let us know. (In the future if you do not know how to properly verify or TS an issue just ask.)
1) You have a problem that was NEVER FIXED.
2) You believe PFM is the solution to car issues.
3) You think (I have no idea why) the ‘clutch’ is the problem.
4) You are putting “cheap” parts into your car?
5) You completely ignore sound advice.
Is there something you are not telling us? If not, the ‘clutch’ can not be your problem.
Furthermore I am willing to bet that you do not even know HOW to verify that the slave is working. (Especially since you do not even know what a ‘master’ is.)
I guess asand1’s post meant nothing to you? Ignore more good advice IMO. I am sure your local mechanic will be happy to take your money. When you are ready to figure out the real problem let us know. (In the future if you do not know how to properly verify or TS an issue just ask.)
#24
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Location: Haverhill & S.Boston MA
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Shook187... You have no idea what you are doing. You clearly want a pat on the back, pseudo fixes, and to throw money at your car. You will not get any of the aforementioned from me.
1) You have a problem that was NEVER FIXED.
2) You believe PFM is the solution to car issues.
3) You think (I have no idea why) the ‘clutch’ is the problem.
4) You are putting “cheap” parts into your car?
5) You completely ignore sound advice.
Is there something you are not telling us? If not, the ‘clutch’ can not be your problem.
Furthermore I am willing to bet that you do not even know HOW to verify that the slave is working. (Especially since you do not even know what a ‘master’ is.)
I guess asand1’s post meant nothing to you? Ignore more good advice IMO. I am sure your local mechanic will be happy to take your money. When you are ready to figure out the real problem let us know. (In the future if you do not know how to properly verify or TS an issue just ask.)
1) You have a problem that was NEVER FIXED.
2) You believe PFM is the solution to car issues.
3) You think (I have no idea why) the ‘clutch’ is the problem.
4) You are putting “cheap” parts into your car?
5) You completely ignore sound advice.
Is there something you are not telling us? If not, the ‘clutch’ can not be your problem.
Furthermore I am willing to bet that you do not even know HOW to verify that the slave is working. (Especially since you do not even know what a ‘master’ is.)
I guess asand1’s post meant nothing to you? Ignore more good advice IMO. I am sure your local mechanic will be happy to take your money. When you are ready to figure out the real problem let us know. (In the future if you do not know how to properly verify or TS an issue just ask.)
#25
get it from autozone then when you fry it like i did you get a new one for free
#27
mine just hung up for some reason then of course the tranny blew good thing both were warrantied now im just waiting on chuck and eddies to get it in its coming from boston but its a slow process with all this snow
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